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Old 04-28-2014, 03:19 PM   #51
vwbugpilot
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The grovers are usually just on the corners of the drum. A file will take you a long time. You neeed like a little dremel tool with a grinding disc, or some type of small grinding wheel. You are not trying to take off a lot of metal, just reduce the grove almost to flush.
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Old 04-28-2014, 03:26 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbugpilot View Post
The grovers are usually just on the corners of the drum. A file will take you a long time. You neeed like a little dremel tool with a grinding disc, or some type of small grinding wheel. You are not trying to take off a lot of metal, just reduce the grove almost to flush.
Here is a picture: http://i.imgur.com/jUmHT3R.jpg

I just wonder if the grooves are too deep.

Last edited by maw230; 04-28-2014 at 07:07 PM.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:23 PM   #53
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I think you have enough metal to grind them, remember they don t need to be gone completely if the metal looks to thin just take off what you can, the new disc are thicker because they are not yet worn so the metal disc will not fall in the exact same spot.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:39 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbugpilot View Post
I think you have enough metal to grind them, remember they don t need to be gone completely if the metal looks to thin just take off what you can, the new disc are thicker because they are not yet worn so the metal disc will not fall in the exact same spot.
This^

You don't have to make them disappear, just smooth them and take off sharp edges.

Also, can you post more picks of your model 4EAT? There are not many pics of these opened up out there.
I see some differences from my 97 4EAT and I'd like to reference them in my write up.

Thanks.

Last edited by Bikelok; 04-28-2014 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 04-28-2014, 07:45 PM   #55
maw230
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Ok, I've got the pics working in the previous post and have a new one that shows the other grooves you were referring to. The ones where the clutch pack sits...I'll call it the clutch basket. Here:


I am pretty confident that I do not have the time or ability (or the tools) to grind these grooves out. I don't even know how I would angle a dremel down into the basket to do it...
I'm going to look for some replacement parts online and price those. Maybe I can get them at the dealer tomorrow if I'm lucky. Can I remove the two pieces that have the grooves or are they attached to the surrounding bits?
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Old 04-28-2014, 08:00 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post

This^

You don't have to make them disappear, just smooth them and take off sharp edges.

Also, can you post more picks of your model 4EAT? There are not many pics of these opened up out there.
I see some differences from my 97 4EAT and I'd like to reference them in my write up.

Thanks.
I will take plenty of pictures and post them all together later.

I think this page has my parts: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...eduction_gear/
Number 1 is the total shaft which runs $160, but I don't know if the clutch basket is pictured or not.

Any help would be great.

As far as sanding the grooves, I would have to buy a dremel and then worry about ****ing it up. I could probably sell the used parts to someone more handy than me later.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:32 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maw230 View Post

I will take plenty of pictures and post them all together later.

I think this page has my parts: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...eduction_gear/
Number 1 is the total shaft which runs $160, but I don't know if the clutch basket is pictured or not.

Any help would be great.

As far as sanding the grooves, I would have to buy a dremel and then worry about ****ing it up. I could probably sell the used parts to someone more handy than me later.
Thanks!

The clutch basket is not included.

Don't over think the groove thing. If you just take the edges down with a light sandpaper, you most likely will do all that's needed. You just don't want things to hang up on the edges. If you want to replace things though, then by all means go for it.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:36 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post

Thanks!

The clutch basket is not included.

Don't over think the groove thing. If you just take the edges down with a light sandpaper, you most likely will do all that's needed. You just don't want things to hang up on the edges. If you want to replace things though, then by all means go for it.
I suppose I'm mainly just worried about it being easier to occur again if the grooves aren't almost gone.. Granted they probably got there from improper driving from the previous owner.

The ones in the basket aren't that deep, but the others seem to be. I'll think it over tomorrow. Any suggestions on files, sand paper, other tools to buy?
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:56 PM   #59
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A Dremel with an extension would be my first choice. Use the sanding wheel with the light grit and finish with 800 grit sandpaper (by hand).

If you want to go with a file, you will have to see what kind of files you have available and make your choice. Just make sure it's not aggressive and has very fine teeth. Finish with 800 grit sandpaper.

If sandpaper, then I'd start with 150-200. Then go to a 400 and finish with an 800 (labor intensive).

If you don't have a dremel, nows a good time to get one. They are very handy for lots of hobbies/housework too. Or perhaps ask around for a loaner.
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Old 04-28-2014, 11:28 PM   #60
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I've wanted a dremel for years now, so maybe it's time. If the grooves really don't seem too deep then I will go that route. Or possibly replace the shaft/gear and dremel the basket.
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Old 04-30-2014, 02:52 PM   #61
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Got the dremel. Going to attack it tonight, but while I'm in there I would like to replace the duty solenoid... If I could find it. If anyone has any tips on where it is please let me know.
Thanks.
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:16 AM   #62
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it is in the rear case that you removed
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:22 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbugpilot View Post
it is in the rear case that you removed
I'm afraid not unless it could have simply fallen out. Or I could be blind. If that's the only place it could be then that's where it is.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:37 PM   #64
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Quote:
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Well I've read a thousand threads on this so far, but still want to know what has worked best for everyone in regard to fixing torque binding. My situation: 2005 impreza wagon 2.5L 4EAT (i guess, its an auto) The car shudders when turning tightly at low speeds and sometimes when taking off or braking. Putting the 10 amp fuse in the FWD slot eliminated the problem. First steps were to add front and rear diff fluid, but that didnt help. The fluid in the diffs was very clean. Most people say it's the duty C solenoid since it goes away when we put the fuse in. Many other people claim that changing the tranny fluid multiple times has helped them. Some say driving around in a figure 8 worked for them. My thought is to first try draining and changing the tranny fluid. This was done a little more than a year ago and the fluid is clean, but im willing to try anything. Does that seem like a reasonable first step? Should I add any of the Ford Friction Modifier to the tranny fluid? I read that may help as well. If it is the solenoid, would it be extremely difficult to replace without the use of a lift? I have ramps and jacks stands only. Thanks for ANY help!
very interested on how this turns out
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:52 PM   #65
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So I just started grinding on the dremel. How does it look:



Metal flakes are everywhere. I'm worried that removing the outer layer is going to make it easy for metal to grind off and cause problems. Any opinions there?
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Old 05-01-2014, 07:59 PM   #66
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Are you using the sanding wheel?

If its a stone you are using, switch to the sanding wheel.

It's looking ok, just make sure the edges are smooth.

When you are done, CLEAN IT UP SUPER GOOD!
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:01 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
Are you using the sanding wheel?

If its a stone you are using, switch to the sanding wheel.

It's looking ok, just make sure the edges are smooth.

When you are done, CLEAN IT UP SUPER GOOD!
I've used both, but I can't really fit the sanding wheel in between the grooves.. Stone wheel fits but it seems like too much.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:14 PM   #68
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I thought the small diameter wheel fit.

If not then stick with what fits.

You don't have to make it disappear, just a bit smoother.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:18 PM   #69
maw230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
I thought the small diameter wheel fit.

If not then stick with what fits.

You don't have to make it disappear, just a bit smoother.
It fits, just a bit tight, but it has the added benefit of doing both sides at once..
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Old 05-01-2014, 09:15 PM   #70
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This is all for tonight:



The small sanding wheel fits pretty well. I will probably go one more round all the way then finish it up by hand. Any suggestions on how to get microscopic bits of metal out of the parts are welcome :-)

And the damn solenoid is nowhere to be found unless it sits behind the "basket".
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:46 PM   #71
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That looks good.

Brake cleaner should do well.

Show us pictures of both sides and perhaps we can point you in the right place.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:14 AM   #72
maw230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikelok View Post
That looks good.

Brake cleaner should do well.

Show us pictures of both sides and perhaps we can point you in the right place.
Pics:


Last edited by maw230; 05-03-2014 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:39 AM   #73
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OK, now I'll say it- where the heck is the transfer duty solenoid and transfer valve?

Either that trans has it in the pan, or someone found a long enough rubber bushing to put a later rear housing onto an earlier main case.
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Old 05-03-2014, 10:41 AM   #74
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BTW on the grinding, main idea is to not taper the ridge towards the outside, but to taper the flat part evenly into the grooves.

Best to tape rags or paper or such around everything else first too.
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Old 05-03-2014, 12:21 PM   #75
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You got me too! Where is it?

This is where it should be on your car: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impre...llustration_2/
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