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Old 06-16-2014, 10:48 AM   #126
Bikelok
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That totally sucks!

I'm sorry for you.
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Old 06-16-2014, 02:05 PM   #127
maw230
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Yeah it's pretty ridiculous. Next up is rotate and check tires, change diff fluids... Pray.

I am definitely glad I changed the reduction drive gear since it was all grooved up, but the valve body thing hurts. All in all though this experience was great in terms of learning and hopefully helping people avoid the same mistakes I made.
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Old 06-17-2014, 01:37 PM   #128
jljbtm
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I don't mean to put salt in your wound but I had one tire the wrong size on my daughter's car so we went and bought 4 new tires with a 4 wheel alignment. Then I had the trans oil drained out added new ATF with Lucas oil conditioner and it is all good now.
So tires being equal and fresh oil does at least help, for how long I don't know.
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Old 06-17-2014, 02:19 PM   #129
maw230
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Good to hear! No worries man. I also noticed a vast improvement after changing the fluid a few times, just didn't last. I'm glad I got in there and got rid of the bad parts at the least. With a little luck I will have it sorted out soon.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:53 PM   #130
silversurfer05
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keep us updated!!!!!! i have the same issue (limp mode)
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:16 PM   #131
maw230
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I think limp mode is generally an indication of solenoid failure. Something I didn't have. I do however own a transfer duty solenoid if you need one ;-)

The binding is still there, but I'm wondering if it's an alignment thing or something similar.. I just don't care anymore. Gonna rotate, align, balance all that jazz.
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Old 06-26-2014, 11:01 PM   #132
silversurfer05
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but can you go WOT now? brake boost? cus i cant put both pedals down since this happened. and im about to replace the valve body to see if that helps but dont want to go thru a hassle if i can get it to go thru the gears like normal with a simple fix
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:09 PM   #133
maw230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silversurfer05 View Post
but can you go WOT now? brake boost? cus i cant put both pedals down since this happened. and im about to replace the valve body to see if that helps but dont want to go thru a hassle if i can get it to go thru the gears like normal with a simple fix
I don't ever go WOT in this car. If you need a good valve body though I have one.
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:01 PM   #134
CNY_Dave
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Looking at a few posts...

The solenoid is integrated into the valve body, as in the position is integrated into the valve body. All the solenoids are individually replaceable.

If it does not bind with the fuse in (0V to the solenoid, no pressure fed to the clutch pack) it could be the grooving, but I'd guess probably not.

I thought you put in a new clutch basket?

It could be the shuttle valve/spool valve the solenoid valve actually controls is sticking, it is modulated by the solenoid (the pulse pattern sent to the solenoid) and if it doesn't move freely it could apply too much pressure to the clutch pack.

It wouldn't be the original cause but if you put in new clutch plates the shim that adjusts the preload/clearance could be too thick.

Did your metal plates look nice and silver, or were they blued?

If you managed the tire pressures just right you might be able to get all 4 to the same rolling circumference and not have any binding, but on the slightest of turns all 4 take quite different paths with different turn radii, and it would still bind.

The TCU could be bad- maybe it is sending bad pulses? That is, just sending +12V instead of nice pulses?
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Old 07-15-2014, 08:41 PM   #135
maw230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNY_Dave View Post
Looking at a few posts...

The solenoid is integrated into the valve body, as in the position is integrated into the valve body. All the solenoids are individually replaceable.

Unfortunately they are not all sold individually.

If it does not bind with the fuse in (0V to the solenoid, no pressure fed to the clutch pack) it could be the grooving, but I'd guess probably not.

I thought you put in a new clutch basket?

I put in the reduction drive gear which goes into the basket.

It could be the shuttle valve/spool valve the solenoid valve actually controls is sticking, it is modulated by the solenoid (the pulse pattern sent to the solenoid) and if it doesn't move freely it could apply too much pressure to the clutch pack.

It wouldn't be the original cause but if you put in new clutch plates the shim that adjusts the preload/clearance could be too thick.

Did your metal plates look nice and silver, or were they blued?

They were darker I believe, but not blued. I will look again.

If you managed the tire pressures just right you might be able to get all 4 to the same rolling circumference and not have any binding, but on the slightest of turns all 4 take quite different paths with different turn radii, and it would still bind.

The TCU could be bad- maybe it is sending bad pulses? That is, just sending +12V instead of nice pulses?

I answered your questions up above in the quote.

Thanks for the post, Dave. I have just been driving it with the bind. Not a good long term plan I'm sure, but we don't have another option right now since my car is down for a while.

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