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Old 01-27-2014, 07:59 AM   #1
Wcfd2509
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2000 Legacy L Wagon
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Default BH 2000 Legacy L Wagon Build

This is the story of my 2000 Subaru Legacy L Wagon’s journey to becoming a unique and surprising rally-oriented, somewhat comfortable, family wagon that will surprise everyone it meets being a sleeper.











I will post all of my currents mods, how I did them and all future mods.

History:
I originally purchased the car in October, 2012, from Subaru of Grand Forks, ND for $3000. It had the common piston slap, and external headgasket leak found in most EJ251’s. Originally purposed for my wife, who sucks at driving stick, it’s an automatic… With only 103,400 Miles on the clock, and previously owned buy a rural-route USPS mail lady, it was in great shape and drove perfectly fine. Now being armed with knowledge about Subaru motors, an absolute obsession with rallying, and a beautiful wife pregnant with our first child, I decided to purchase it. We drove it completely stock for 5 months, and put 11,000 miles on it, courtesy of many trips down south, and enjoyed the INSANELY INCREDIBLE heater which combated the -20 degree weather of North Dakota well in the winter.

PRO’s:
1. Family wagon with lots of storage
2. Sleeper
3. Cheap
4. Lot’s of potential

CONS:
1. IT’S AN AUTOMATIC!!! NOOOOO!!!
2. It’s a little heavy
3. Wiring sucks for everything
4. Stupid “smart ECU” gets in the way of everything!
5. Looks a little ugly hahahaha!

Goals:
1. 250 WHP
2. Bullet-proof reliability
3. Somewhat comfortable
4. Sleeper
5. Still get around 27 MPG on the highway

Parts I have already:
1. Delta Cams 1500 regrinds
2. Perrin light weight standard size crank pulley
3. AWD switch mod for center diff lockup
4. Longer Outback rear shocks
5. More aggressive snow tires
6. Plenty of Plasti-Dip
7. 15” wheels for rally tires
8. 16” wheels with slightly aggressive off-set to sit flush with fenders
9. 04 EJ257 STI block
10. M62 Supercharger
11. 10mm oil pump
12. Cometic 0.051" head gasket
13. Stock STI pistons
14. OEM forged STI rods
15. 17mm rear sway bar from Subaru Baja (lift off over-steer baby)
16. Stoptech front pads and rotors.
17. Roof scoop
18. ARP rod bolts
19. Mini Cooper S butterfly by-pass valve.
20. 4eat "Power Mode" mod
21. WRX top mount intercooler
22. King XP Race Bearings
23. Borla UEL header
24. Tsudo catless mid-pipe
25. Custom 2.5" catback
26. Greddy E-manage Ultimate
27. DIY rally light rack
28. Rally tires
29. WRX hood scoop
30. Custom 2.25" supercharger pulley yielding 8-9 PSI at 517 CFM
31. Modified 720 CC WRX injectors (De-capped)
32. Parallel fuel mod
33. STI fuel pump
34. AEM UEGO wide-band O2 sensor
35. Exhaust gas temperature sensor
36. High dampening shocks
37. Even more parts I cannot remember...


Future Parts?:
10. 5MT in 4.11?
11. Rear diff to match
12. 5MT ECU from another Legacy
13. Stage 3 clutch
14. Flywheel
20. Another timing belt tensioner mount (Bolt holes were cross-treaded. Ooops!)
21. Poly motor mounts
22. New front seats
23. Rally coil overs (EXPENSIVE!!!)
24. Shifter, linkage
25. 5MT pedal assembly (Brake and clutch)
26. Clutch master cylinder
27. Front helical LSD (Probably OBX with upgraded componets)
28. Random stuff
29. Stoptech rear pads, shoes, and rotors
30. Possibly WRX rear caliper upgrade???
31. Brand new Subaru forged crankshaft
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Last edited by Wcfd2509; 08-15-2014 at 10:42 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:21 PM   #2
Wcfd2509
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Hunter Green

Default Reserved

So, exhaust...

Honestly, I care more about getting the "Boxer Rumble", than power. Which is why I went with the unequal length (UEL) header, and not a long tube equal length.





Perrin lightweight crank pulley...




Compared to stock.


Brakes...


Stoptech front rotors and Stoptech street/race compound pads. Good improvement.



Plasti-dipped 15" wheels with General Altimax studded deep tread snow tires! They aren't mounted on car BTW, the wheel is just next to it to give you an idea.

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 01-29-2014 at 12:52 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:23 PM   #3
Wcfd2509
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Hunter Green

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17mm Rear Sway Bar

So, after doing my research, I discovered that the BH Outback, and BH Legacy have the same style sway bars in the rear. So, I figured since the Subaru Baja is basically a BH Outback chassis, why not see if I could use the Baja rear sway bar.

All in all, it took 20 minutes and it was a different beast around the corners. Beware though, the Baja sway bar WILL rub a little under the car on the BH Legacys, not sure about the Outbacks though since they have spacers in their suspensions. But it does work fine. Mine's been on over 8 months will A LOT of very hard and bumping driving, and road trips.

The BH Legacy's sway bar is 13mm thick and you can literally bend it with your arm strength. The Baja's rear sway bar is 17mm thick OEM and I could not even bend it by hanging from it. LOL I also got some Whiteline bushings but they aren't pictured. The BH Legacy end links are solid metal, and mine were in okay shape. You may want to go ahead and get some stiffer Whiteline sway bar end links.

I enjoy left over sear because it is very useful in many understeer situations on gravel and snow to help recover the turn. Which is my reasoning for this $95 total upgrade. $95 is way better than name brand $180+ sway bars out there that were a bit too stiff for what I wanted anyways. I need very good independent suspension travel, but if you go too stiff on sway bars, you tend to loose a little suspension independence.

Here is the comparison.



First, unbolt the 4 12mm (maybe 14mm, can't remember...) bolts holding the sway bar bushings and clamps to the car.


Next the annoying sway bar link nuts (I think 17mm... Correct me if I'm wrong!) It's way easier to get these of with and impact gun, but if all you have is hand wrenches, get a good vise grip because the bolts will probably spin freely.


This is where you will see that the Baja sway bar contacts under the car. But it bolts in fine.

And done!

4EAT center differential lock switch

I won't post my process, but you can find it here:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075...mada-lite.html

WRX Hood Scoop Install

Now for this, you must be willing to mutilate your hood, otherwise, buy an expensive Baja Sport hood. They came with hood scoops OEM.

First, I prepped my WRX hood scoop I got rom my buddy. I gently grinded off all of the little plastic bits that prevented it from sitting flush on my hood, EXCEPT FOR THE TWO BOLT HOLES ON THE LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES!


I then measured and stenciled my hood. (I had some very good help here from an awesome, car obsessed, co-worker with a GREAT EYE! Thanks!)

Next, the cut! No going back now! (Safety first!)

I also drilled small holes in the hood for the screws on the hood scoop to mount through.

Then, I put some bonding epoxy that can be sanded on the contact points around the edges for rain seal. Makes sure it is sand able and paintable. (Bondo is perfect!)

Lastly, I screwed the mounting screws from the bottom to hold the hood scoop in place, and put a tone of heavy crap on top until it dried to get it to seat flush to the hood.

Here is the result! Not bad for $60 functional hood scoop.


Here is how high it sits. Not too high in my opinion.


And by functional, I mean literal for cold air intake purposes. I have top mount intercooler in my future plans, so it needed to be done anyways. People don't realize that a fender mounted filter doesn't do well with the insane gravel/mud roads of North Dakota, it will get completely muddy and soak with water. Which is why I did this!

The filter is mounted directly onto the throttle body. And yes, I could seriously feel a difference in power above 30 MPH.



Now, to curb some criticism before it begins. The engine bay is hot enough at temperature to dry up rain water and evaporate it. I have been in many torrential downpours going 75 MPH and the filter is still completely dry upon inspection. Same in the 5 blizzards this year. Now I do have to park with the hood scoop facing down wind of the snow of coarse, because the entire engine bay fills with snow now. But it has been completely safe and I have had NO problems.

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 01-29-2014 at 07:20 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:24 PM   #4
Wcfd2509
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2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default 3 Reserved

Outback Rear Strut Install

I replaced the front struts with OEM spec Legacy struts due to travel length, and decided to go with OEM spec Outback struts in the rear. It raised the rear about 1", and gave me an extra 3" of travel!!! While literally leveling out the car.

I don't have every pic of this process, but you find it here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=32233

And here is where you can figure what combinations you want for your application. It shows the suspension travel lengths, ect.: http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=27153


You can clearly see the difference in the lengths.



Yep.


And sitting on the ground before break-in.

And here is a little before and after:
Before:


After:

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 01-29-2014 at 03:32 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:24 PM   #5
Wcfd2509
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Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default 4 Reserved

Delta Cam 1500 Grind Install!!!

Detailed instructions for the SOHC EJ251 install are here: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t960...t-install.html

Delta Cams has three "street able" cam profiles. 1000, 1500, and 2000.
1000 Grind is more low end torque. It works fine with the stock ECU and idles close to normal.

1500 Grind, which I have, is more mid range with top end HP capabilities. It idles sort of weird on the stock ECU, I recommend a piggyback ECU like the Greddy E-manage Blue, E-manage Ultimte or TurboXS UTEC (which is kind of old but extremely close to a stand alone. Our Phase 2 EJ251 equipped vehicles have a "smart ECU" that literally learns your habits and can learn how to overcome the 1500 Grind's idle problem. Search about this, the info is out there on how to get it to learn.
Ps. an APEX-i SAFC WILL NOT WORK. The ECU learns around it. The E-manage Blue, Ultimate, and UTEC work differently and WILL WORK on our ECU's.

2000 Grind, is strictly a top end HP cam. It WILL NOT idle on stock ECU hardly at all without raising the idle RPM (which you need a program and cable to do it). A piggyback ECU is A MUST for this cam. But keep in mind, this cam does no make it's power in the lower RPM's where we daily drive, it's up in the high RPM's.

They're here!


Now we start.


Oh and a little trick for my 4EAT people trying to get the crankshaft pulley off without an impact gun. Take a long pry bar and shove it on the hole that covers the flex plate for the torque converter to stop the engine from rotating when you try the break the bolt loose. There's a rubber cover over the whole. You can see what hole I'm talking about here:


Pulled the passenger head off. Please do one at a time lol. It's a simple mechanics rule that helps prevent screw-ups.


My cylinders were in amazing shape for 115, 000 miles. They still showed good crosshatching and had very little compression chamber pitting.


Head off now to 10mm STI oil pump.


Cleaned and good to go!


Reassembled with Delta cam in!


Thinner STI head gasket.


To be continued...

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 01-29-2014 at 02:52 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old 01-27-2014, 02:27 PM   #6
Wcfd2509
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default 5 Reserved

And a sneak peak of what's to come this year...







OEM STI rods. Proven good to 450+ WHP!!!!!!!!

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 01-29-2014 at 03:13 AM. Reason: Added info
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:52 PM   #7
4doors4hp
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nice to hear. i drive an 00 LGT wagon.
Post some pics of the car. I want to see the raised rear on outback struts.
i rebuilt the motor not too long ago and have a b25c (06 sti block) in my garage with intentions to do a shortblock swap and boost.
I also want to see the scoop you put in!
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:45 PM   #8
Wcfd2509
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Location: Grand Forks, ND
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2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default Pics to come!

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doors4hp View Post
nice to hear. i drive an 00 LGT wagon.
Post some pics of the car. I want to see the raised rear on outback struts.
i rebuilt the motor not too long ago and have a b25c (06 sti block) in my garage with intentions to do a shortblock swap and boost.
I also want to see the scoop you put in!
I will post my first few mods I did tomorrow. And I'll upload a good pic of my car as it sits now.
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Old 01-28-2014, 04:17 PM   #9
4doors4hp
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glad to hear. tuned in.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:25 AM   #10
Wcfd2509
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Hunter Green

Default How ou likey so far?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doors4hp View Post
glad to hear. tuned in.
More to come soon. I'm currently deployed but will be back in the next few weeks finally.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:35 AM   #11
phil4568
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Nice post. Thanks for your service too by the way.
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Old 01-30-2014, 12:46 PM   #12
Wcfd2509
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Hunter Green

Default Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by phil4568 View Post
Nice post. Thanks for your service too by the way.
Thanks. I'm eager to get back home. I'll post a pic of my car with the 15" wheels on it soon.
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:19 PM   #13
4doors4hp
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really like what you did with the scoop. If i end up putting my sti engine in i would take on a similar route.
coilovers for me first. hopefully by next week.
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:57 PM   #14
Wcfd2509
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Default Cool stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doors4hp View Post
really like what you did with the scoop. If i end up putting my sti engine in i would take on a similar route.
coilovers for me first. hopefully by next week.
What are you planning to do with your Subie? Rally-oriented?
What coilovers have you decided on?

I am leaning toward "All-Wheels Driven" coilovers. But it'll be in the $2500 range. I have looked into others, but they all have to be custom made mostly because of our rear suspension design.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:25 PM   #15
4doors4hp
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stance it during the summer. my daily.
stance super sport.
you can run any 08 wrx coil overs if you swap the top hats.
Im at about 1100 for my coils.
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:13 PM   #16
Wcfd2509
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Default Rears?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doors4hp View Post
stance it during the summer. my daily.
stance super sport.
you can run any 08 wrx coil overs if you swap the top hats.
Im at about 1100 for my coils.
But the rears on our BH/BE's are a multipoint design, the WRX has Macpherson design. How do we make it work?
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Old 01-30-2014, 03:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wcfd2509 View Post
But the rears on our BH/BE's are a multipoint design, the WRX has Macpherson design. How do we make it work?
http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...-189401p2.html
this guy started on 08 wrx struts and springs with 04 top hats.
then went to 08 raceland coils with stock top hats on the rears and redrilled front mounts however i heard the stock top hats may work.
the stance coils are direct fit. no idea how.
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Old 01-30-2014, 11:37 PM   #18
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This is super awesome. Keep up the work. Why not lower the car? Not utilitarian enough?

Also, for the people talking about lowering on coils above, there are many options that are direct bolt up for our cars in terms of coils. You just have to get Legacy spec ones. Second, coils are pricey.... why not just struts/springs? This is my car on just KYB Legacy struts and H&R Legacy springs.

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Old 01-31-2014, 12:08 AM   #19
4doors4hp
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MOAR LOW. ordering monday.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:36 AM   #20
Wcfd2509
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2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frogsthatmoo View Post
This is super awesome. Keep up the work. Why not lower the car? Not utilitarian enough? Also, for the people talking about lowering on coils above, there are many options that are direct bolt up for our cars in terms of coils. You just have to get Legacy spec ones. Second, coils are pricey.... why not just struts/springs? This is my car on just KYB Legacy struts and H&R Legacy springs.
Mostly gravel roads in North Dakota. So ground clearance is better all around for me considering the 3 ft+ of snow we get. Rally suspension setups need long travel, usually softer springs rates, and higher dampening. I drive 70% off pavement.

I actually have the GR-2's on all corners now. Good struts for the money. And work decent off road absorbing the bumps.

The problems rally guys have with our BH/BE's is that most rally coilovers on the market are for WRX/STI's which have a different rear setup than us. So we can't just put them on and call it a day. WRX/STI's have a "McPherson" *spelling* setup in all four corners, we have "McPherson" in the front, and a "multipoint" rear setup. Subaru did that to us so we'd have more cargo space because it takes up less space.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:40 AM   #21
4doors4hp
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so far i know of two brands with direct drop ins.
stance and K2 make direct fit.
even called stance today to make sure.
Stance is a 6k/6k with sleeved shocks.
K2 is a 8.7k/8.7k with sleeveless shocks.
both are about 1 grand new
k2 do not go as low as stance.
all i can say on them
to raise them look up
http://www.subtle-solutions.com/inde...Path=21_98_115
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:43 AM   #22
Wcfd2509
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2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doors4hp View Post
MOAR LOW. ordering monday.
Never heard of them. Let me know how they are we you get them in. And where you got them. I'm open to all possibilities.

I'm not wanting to go with the D2 gravel coilovers on Ebay from reviews I've read on them leaking after one rally event. I want something that will last at least 20-30 events.
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:46 AM   #23
4doors4hp
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thats an iffy situation. BC GR coilovers can fit ours with switching the top hats,
stance are too soft for rally but are great for corrosion resistance.
K2 are better for rally but arent shielded that well.
i will. the reviews on stance are pretty great usually.
but i cant chime until i get them.
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:27 AM   #24
Wcfd2509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4doors4hp View Post
thats an iffy situation. BC GR coilovers can fit ours with switching the top hats, stance are too soft for rally but are great for corrosion resistance. K2 are better for rally but arent shielded that well. i will. the reviews on stance are pretty great usually. but i cant chime until i get them.
Thank, I appreciate it. I had a discussion with the wife, I'm holding off on the Emanage till the turbo. I bought the VAG COM cable and got ahold of Ecu Explorer to raise my idle so 950 rpm. In the winter the low 650 rpm idle hates life at -15 degrees. I do not have my A/C belt on to help with idle either. So the old turn you A/C on trick for higher idle is a no go for me.

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 01-31-2014 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 01-31-2014, 11:04 AM   #25
4doors4hp
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No problem. Have you ever changed your coilpack? I swapped mine with one that had 100k less miles on it and it really helped. Im in Wisconsin so we get harsh weather as well.
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