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Old 08-07-2014, 06:58 PM   #101
Wcfd2509
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default $68 M62 pulley!

I thought you guys would be interested in the pulley I built.


I measure the O. D. of the face plates steel part that slips on the splined shaft. It was about 17.2 mm. I found out all Powerdyne pulleys are 17 mm ad pressed on design. So I found this site: http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/6ribpulley.php

I did my calculations on what pulley ratios would get me right around 14,500 rpm on the M62. There are a bunch of guys on the Mercedes forums spinning 15,000-16,000 rpm with no issues for years.

5.25/2.25=2.33333... pulley ratio.
2.333333x6250 rpm=14,583.333 SC rpm at redline.
14,583.333x1 (liter)x0.03531=514.9375 SC CFM
((514.9375-225/225)/14.7)x100=8.766 psi of boost on an EJ25.

So this pulley combo should yield 8.766 psi at the supercharger and approx. 7.5-8ish psi after my intercooler.

First, you have to cut the shaft cover off to make room for the pulley's position.


Next you have to grind down about .1ish mm off the faceplate portion that the pulley will press onto. (I forgot to take pictures.)

Then press the pulley onto the faceplate portion.


And the end result with extra pictures.
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Last edited by Wcfd2509; 08-16-2014 at 12:05 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:10 PM   #102
Wcfd2509
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Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default Some more goodies...

King XP Race Bearings, ARP rod bolts, And a Mini Cooper S butterfly valve style air actuated by-pass valve.


The plan is to run the by-pass valve in the stock BOV location on the WRX intercooler. It's a true butterfly valve by-pass similar to the one in the larger root style blowers. The flange is made for an HKS SSQ BOV. I'm going to custom fab the flange to be welded to the by-pass valve.


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Old 08-07-2014, 07:36 PM   #103
Wcfd2509
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Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default Pulley size differences.

The OEM Mercedes 3.6"ish vs. the Powerdyne 2.25" supercharger pulley.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:09 AM   #104
Wcfd2509
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Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default BH 2000 Legacy L Wagon Build

My car was built 04/2000. It is an EJ251 with the stupid 280cc air assist injectors. I am going well beyond their capabilities with 220-240 WHP (275-290 CHP), so I needed more cc's to play around with.



Here is the manifold and the air assist holes.







I got some modified (De-capped) 03 WRX injectors flowing right around 720cc for my 9 psi M62 supercharger setup on my EJ257/EJ251 motor (220-240 WHP hopefully). Keep in mind guys, like Skidd, I'm running an E-manage Ultimate, so I can tune for larger injectors correctly.



The bottom injector is the air assist EJ251, and the top is the light green WRX.

The air assist one has one big o-ring up top, and funny bottom o-rings. Of which, the tiny one on the very tip is where it gets its seal in the lower, smaller diameter portion of the injector hole in the manifold. The WRX injector has one tiny o-ring up top and has one giant thick one on the bottom.





I bought some replacement o-rings for top of the EJ251 injectors, part #:9464K543 from here McMaster-Carr



The blue is OEM EJ251, the big black is the replacements, and the litter black is the WRX o-rings. As you can probably see, the WRX ones will not work in the EJ251 fuel rails. But there is hope, because the EJ251 top o-rings will fit over the WRX tops perfect and perfect in the EJ251 fuel rail. Like this:





Luckily the fat WRX bottom o-rings are a very snug fit inside the EJ251 manifold ports so leave those on. Here the WRX injectors are with the replacement EJ251 big top o-rings.





I found the WRX bottom o-rings seemed to cover the air assist holes so I did not cover the injector air ports. I will however plug the air assist tubes later. Use some grease on the bottom o-rings and wiggle them in there.





Then grease the top o-rings and carefully slip the fuel rails on there. (The top o-rings love to not go on correctly in the fuel rail so inspect them after you get them on for an even seal.) Hold the fuel rail on while you put your 12mm bolts back on or else the o-rings will pop the fuel rail off. Here is the end result:







And so you can all see how receded these injectors sit, here is a picture. You be the judge if you think it's too much.





Hope this is helpful!

Last edited by Wcfd2509; 08-24-2014 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:23 AM   #105
Wcfd2509
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default BH 2000 Legacy L Wagon Build

An update.

I installed a roof scoop.


Here is what it looks like underneath.


And from the outside.



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Last edited by Wcfd2509; 11-20-2014 at 03:34 AM.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:27 AM   #106
Wcfd2509
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default BH 2000 Legacy L Wagon Build

And here is some of the last few months.




Ps. I don't have this license plate anymore.


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Last edited by Wcfd2509; 11-20-2014 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 11-20-2014, 02:45 AM   #107
Wcfd2509
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Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default

Okay so, I will let you guys know what's up with the build.

I got it to run. As seen here:
And I'm talking about a whole bunch of random tuning crap. Sorry about the rambling.

So once I assembled the block, I stupidly put a head gasket on the reverse way because I'm a moron and didn't pay attention. I ran it for 2 minutes with the oil leaking all over the top of the motor and literally almost ran it out of oil. Luckily my wife noticed, but not in time to save my valves. They had dry-locked in their guides and got bent by the Pistons. I had to pull the heads off, completely rebuild the heads (again), and put new head gaskets on. I used the OEM EJ25D 0.051". After the engine the motor was back together and running perfect, I put it into reverse and nothing happened... It wouldn't move.

I had unseated the torque converter when I pulled the motor and hadn't realized it. I also had a terrible oil leak coming from the rear main seal. I pulled the tranny out and reseated the torque converter and re-installed the rear main seal. Once back together, the oil leak was gone, but the tranny still had no line pressure and wouldn't move.

I pulled the motor one more time and pulled the oil pump shaft completely out to see it that was an issue. It was. I was hoping I hadn't crushed the oil pump. So I reseated the TC again and one more, the car wouldn't move.

I came very close to lighting my car on fire. But then decided that this was the catalyst in my decision to finally do what I originally wanted, a 5MT swap...

And here is a teaser.

5MT ECU


5MT gauge cluster.


Pedals.


Linkage.



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Old 11-20-2014, 03:31 AM   #108
Wcfd2509
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Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default BH 2000 Legacy L Wagon Build

5-Speed Manual Swap

Parts list of the needed parts.
4.111 JDM transmission
2000 Legacy/Outback 5mt ECU
2000 Legacy/Outback 5mt pedals
Clutch master cylinder
5mt crank and cam pulleys
5mt gauge cluster
Clutch and flywheel
Shifter and linkage
5mt drive shaft
5mt crossmember
Possibly 5mt front axles
Front 5mt O2 sensor
5mt MAP sensor
5mt knock sensor
Other random crap...

JDM transmissions usually come with the speed sensor, neutral safety position sensor, transmission wiring harness, and the clutch slave cylinder.

Why 4.111 final drive?
I like the torque dispersement through the gears, and the gear ratios a lot. Plus it will rev somewhere around 3100 RPM at 70 mph, I think anyways... I also can save some $ and use my factory rear diff, which is 4.111.

Why the 5mt ECU?
Because my year ECU has no 4eat/5mt identifier pin like the previous generations. So, I knew I needed to get one.

Why the 5mt crank and cam gears?
Since I am switching to a 5mt ECU, I have to use the 5mt gears because the triggers on the gears are different.

Why the gauge cluster?
The auto one will work, but I don't want to see an "AT TEMP" light and the gear selectors all the time. Also, I have read that the speed sensor info is slightly different, so I figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Are the ECU maps the same?
No, the fuel and ignition maps are different. The 5mt maps are more aggressive.

Are the pedals model specific?
I honestly don't know. So when in doubt... Idk... Buy model specific?

Don't you only need the brake/clutch pedals? Why the gas too?
Yes, but it's a pain in the butt to attach the 5mt clutch and brake pedals to the gas pedal inside the car. It's easier to not have to do anything but unbolt the gas and brake from my auto and bolt the new ones in.

Will you need new front axles?
I don't know for sure. In some 5mt swaps on other models, the 4eat front axles were long enough to work. So I will find out.

Why the different sensors: front O2, MAP sensor, and knock sensor?
Because those 5mt sensors send a different signal.

Will you have to rewire anything in the harness?
Yes, but only "re-pin" the ECU harness for the following:
Small light switch
Blower fan switch
Rear defogger switch

What about the "neutral position switch"?
The 4eat on/off signals are literally the exact opposite of the 5mt. So I will have to figure out have to rewire it to make it work.

What clutch and flywheel will you use?
I will be using a XTD Stage 4 Unsprung Clutch and XTD 12 lbs flywheel. If you think this is dumb, I have a very long write-up on this exact subject to justify my choice.

Anymore questions?



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Last edited by Wcfd2509; 11-20-2014 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 11-20-2014, 03:36 AM   #109
Wcfd2509
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default BH 2000 Legacy L Wagon Build

Also, all of my 4eat stuff is for sale. I need you guys to buy it all to help fund my swap. Pretty please!


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Last edited by Wcfd2509; 11-20-2014 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 11-20-2014, 01:37 PM   #110
Patrick Olsen
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Member#: 120
Join Date: Jul 1999
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Location: Where the Navy sends me...
Vehicle:
1997 Legacy 2.5GT
QuickSilver Metallic

Default

So what were you attempting in that World's Strongest Man picture of you with the tow straps?
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Old 11-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #111
Wcfd2509
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default

Haha. That was my buddy pulling the tranny back with a tow strap. It was the safest way we could think of lol.


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Old 12-09-2014, 01:56 AM   #112
Wcfd2509
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Member#: 360640
Join Date: Jun 2013
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Grand Forks, ND
Vehicle:
2000 Legacy L Wagon
Hunter Green

Default

Bit of an update.

I am slowly buying parts for the 5mt swap. But I have also started to get the parts needed for a WRX ECU swap as well.

Which does mean I'm getting ride of my Greddy E-manage Ultimate.

Yep, open source speed density tuning is in my future.

I'm making a jumper harness that can be plugged into my factory harness.

The only things that will be changed are: crank & cam gears, front O2 sensor, maybe idle air control valve, MAP sensor, and I need to figure out if I want coil on plug, or keep my wasted spark system. And a slight rewiring of the OBD2 port.

The 02-05 WRX ECU only looks for one camshaft, so the DOHC vs. SOHC thing is no issue. The biggest possible problems are the IAC valve and the COP vs. wasted spark.

The IAC valve on my BH Legacy is a stepper style with a 5 wire connector. The WRX IAC valve is a 3 wire non stepper style. I have read that the older Legacy IAC valve will work.

The WRX ECU connecter has 4 Wires to each coil. My Legacy only has 2 wires. I can either merge wires 1 & 2 and 3 & 4, or just run GM LS-series COP and wired the two extra wires directly to the extra coils.

02-03 WRX ECU's are the only ones that can run a MAP based speed density tune. 04-05 WRX ECU can only run a MAF based rom.

Everything else is pretty straight forward. Only issue I am trying to figure out is how to switch the neutral position switch signal. The auto and 5mt signals are the exact opposite.

Anyways, that's the update.



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