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Old 02-01-2014, 01:47 PM   #26
jt subie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathexis View Post
Plug in your ap. Go to the map screen (not sure what its under offhand since I am at work maybe someone can chime in) and tell us what map it says you are on under reflash AND real-time.
I believe it's under tune then show current map if I remember correctly
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:50 PM   #27
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Mine does that ever now and again. 100% stock tune.
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Old 02-06-2014, 03:11 AM   #28
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Old 02-06-2014, 10:26 AM   #29
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I checked out those wires and they look fine. I'm pretty stumped now. Also noticed when I started my car after it was warm today the tach dropped below .5k rpm for a few seconds and it sounded like my car was struggling to stay running.
Did you ever check your intercooler to intake manifold coupler? Check your vacuum lines around the bpv and the bpv itself... Make sure it's snug and seated properly (both when cold and when warm)
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Old 02-06-2014, 02:22 PM   #30
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Before you go crazy here with everything suggested above, try leaving you car in accessories (ACC) for 10-15 seconds before cranking. It could be the weather. ACC activates fuel pump before you crank it. Also make sure you're pushing clutch all the way in
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Old 02-06-2014, 04:12 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathexis View Post
Plug in your ap. Go to the map screen (not sure what its under offhand since I am at work maybe someone can chime in) and tell us what map it says you are on under reflash AND real-time.
I have reflash at stage 1+93 oct and realtime as the same but I do ref lash after realtime.
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Old 02-06-2014, 05:45 PM   #32
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I have the same f ing issue! Except it is like that everytime I start it haha.
Then it's probably not the same issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawDizzle View Post
Before you go crazy here with everything suggested above, try leaving you car in accessories (ACC) for 10-15 seconds before cranking. It could be the weather. ACC activates fuel pump before you crank it.
I have the exact same problem as the OP on my 2010 STI 20G-XT build, and it happens regardless of whether or not I let my Walbro prime on ACC first. A cold start will start instantly, with a perfect idle. Warm starts crank for a good 4-5 seconds and then the motor kind of drags itself awake, idling perfect after a few more seconds. Car runs perfectly otherwise. This didn't happen when the car was stock.
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Old 02-07-2014, 12:04 AM   #33
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Then it's probably not the same issue.

I have the exact same problem as the OP on my 2010 STI 20G-XT build, and it happens regardless of whether or not I let my Walbro prime on ACC first. A cold start will start instantly, with a perfect idle. Warm starts crank for a good 4-5 seconds and then the motor kind of drags itself awake, idling perfect after a few more seconds. Car runs perfectly otherwise. This didn't happen when the car was stock.
Yours is tune related im betting. Warm start up enrichment tables arent quite fine tuned enough. Did you complain to your tuner about poor warm starts? Im sure they would have been more than willing to fix it if it was in fact wacked out
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Old 02-07-2014, 01:25 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by utahphunk View Post
Then it's probably not the same issue.
I have the exact same problem as the OP on my 2010 STI 20G-XT build, and it happens regardless of whether or not I let my Walbro prime on ACC first. A cold start will start instantly, with a perfect idle. Warm starts crank for a good 4-5 seconds and then the motor kind of drags itself awake, idling perfect after a few more seconds. Car runs perfectly otherwise. This didn't happen when the car was stock.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Fast4U1DAY View Post
Yours is tune related im betting. Warm start up enrichment tables arent quite fine tuned enough. Did you complain to your tuner about poor warm starts? Im sure they would have been more than willing to fix it if it was in fact wacked out
Bingo ^
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Old 02-07-2014, 10:15 AM   #35
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Yours is tune related im betting. Warm start up enrichment tables arent quite fine tuned enough. Did you complain to your tuner about poor warm starts? Im sure they would have been more than willing to fix it if it was in fact wacked out
I first heard about the warm startup tables yesterday, when I combed through pages and pages of search results on this issue. The second most likely suspect seems to be a leaky DW1000 injector. (I wonder if I would be able to detect a gasoline smell in the oil if that was the case?)

I'll definitely pursue the tune aspect first. Thanks guys!

Last edited by utahphunk; 02-07-2014 at 10:20 AM. Reason: Gasoline smell note
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:04 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by utahphunk View Post

I first heard about the warm startup tables yesterday, when I combed through pages and pages of search results on this issue. The second most likely suspect seems to be a leaky DW1000 injector. (I wonder if I would be able to detect a gasoline smell in the oil if that was the case?)

I'll definitely pursue the tune aspect first. Thanks guys!
If you had a leaky injector your Long Term Fuel Trims(LTFT) would show it (the corrections would be -x%, as the A/F ratio sensor would detect low oxygen levels in the exhaust strem and adjust to stoich)
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:08 AM   #37
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If you had a leaky injector your Long Term Fuel Trims(LTFT) would show it (the corrections would be -x%, as the A/F ratio sensor would detect low oxygen levels in the exhaust strem and adjust to stoich)
Awesome, thanks for the info. I was actually just about to ask what generally needs to be done to the warm start up enrichment tables if they've never been touched. (I'm waiting to hear back from my tuner on that.) I'm running a 360whp 20g-XT build with an opensource tune.
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Old 02-07-2014, 11:33 AM   #38
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Awesome, thanks for the info. I was actually just about to ask what generally needs to be done to the warm start up enrichment tables if they've never been touched. (I'm waiting to hear back from my tuner on that.) I'm running a 360whp 20g-XT build with an opensource tune.
Same turbo I was running except yours is the legacy style compressor housing. My 06 had the older fitment. What hotside, compressor housing size and psi are you running?
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Old 02-11-2014, 01:51 AM   #39
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Old 02-11-2014, 09:49 AM   #40
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Same issues here, I can start the car right up on a cold start no issues on 91 but if I let the car sit for 15min it just sits there and cranks unless I give it a little gas. Not much I can do about it since OS doesn't have the warm start up cranking tables.

However on e85 car fires right up on warm start up's. Car is so finicky.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:56 AM   #41
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hmm, i wonder...let's see, when things are warm fluids expand, rubber expands, and metals expand. could it be that when it's warm the engine is trying to crank but the clutch (as a result of the fluid and lines being warm) is still ever so slightly engaged causing it to crank for a much longer time until the engine starts properly moving? This would explain it across the tuned/untuned platform and why for some e85 (normally more combustible so faster starts anyway) seems not to have an issue.

not saying this is everyone's cause, but i think everyone can do a simple clutch line bleed and adjust the clutch pedal and see if that solves anything...?
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Old 02-12-2014, 12:39 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xabre1200 View Post
Sent my tuner the logs this was Erics reply. Looks like I'm out of options now. Once again my car is 11 WRX running TP stage 1 + oem airbox map. No mods at all under the hood except the Forge BPV but I've had that on for years. I checked all my hoses for leaks and everything is good. Car is out of warranty so no point it taking it to the dealer.

I just don't know what it could be. Logging it isn't going to help really because the o2 sensor is not running anyway so there really isn't anything to look at for a cause. There is a hot start issue that can occur with more modified cars but wouldn't effect your car. Also the hot start tables aren't available for opensource tuning(only Cobb) but they really never need to be touched except on e85 tunes.
Sounds like you just found your problem. Time for an OTS Accessport stage 1 flash.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:55 PM   #43
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:47 AM   #44
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:56 AM   #45
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Nope, still in the same boat. But for what it's worth, I moved from Socal to New England. Haven't had it happen since, even though the engine is super warm and I only let it sit for a minute or two...
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Old 03-24-2014, 01:05 PM   #46
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So I don't have the time to read all this in detail, sorry. But I had a very similar problem to the OP. I pulled the crank (or maybe cam) something position sensor that is directly under the alternator dead center on the front of the motor, then I sprayed it down with electronic parts cleaner and put it back. Now everything is fine. It takes 5 min to do and can solve your problem so why not give it a try.
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Old 03-25-2014, 02:47 PM   #47
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Old 03-25-2014, 03:11 PM   #48
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I had this issue when I moved to larger injectors and e85. Perfect cold and hot starts, but anything within a 20min to 3 hour window had extended crank times. After ruling out the usual leaking FPR and or injector I've been able to all but tune it out by scaling down the fuel cranking tables for those temps.
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Old 03-25-2014, 05:58 PM   #49
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Nope i was able to pull it out without taking anything else apart. Just the one bolt, it was kinda tight but not a problem
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Old 08-29-2014, 05:52 PM   #50
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