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Old 02-02-2014, 02:04 PM   #1
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Default Finally Time to Drop the Engine In - Several Questions from a First Timer

I am done with the engine refresh (HG, decking, valves cleaned, new piston rings).

I am having a hard time getting the input shaft thru the pilot bearing, gap between trans bell housing and block is about 1in, the engine mounts studs are barely clearing the subframe, I have the trans supported by jack stand, looking for tips I have spent about 1 hour already trying to close the gap. Engine is still being supported by the cherry picker.

Next?

Since I have the block studs into the trans housing, would it be ok to remove the jack and let the trans be supported only by the block studs?, would that help?

Or raise the engine to leave more room between the engine mount studs and the subframe?

Or raise or lower the trans, not sure if it would help having the bell housing a bit lower/higher than the block?

Or wiggle the block hard until it mates all the way in?

Would rotating the crankshaft while pushing the block into the bell housing help?
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Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-03-2014 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:26 PM   #2
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if the gap is only 1inch you should have already had the splines on the input saft thru the clutch disc (if that isn't lined up spin the crank pully until they do).


There should be no issue getting the shaft thru the pilot bearing in the flywheel...if I'm a inch away I put the bolts in and SLOWLY and EVENLY tighten the bolts. If some get harder to turn STOP and look everything over again. ALso having a jack under the motor with the mounts unbolted def helps
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:39 PM   #3
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Thanks, good tip on supporting the motor with jack.

Maybe is a bit more than an inch, it is hard to get a jack under the motor as I have the cherry picker legs and jack to support the trans in the way.

But I will try it, I have a second jack, that will relieve tension on the cherry picker chains and give me some additional pivoting play room as the engine now will be resting on the jack.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-02-2014 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:57 PM   #4
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Even 2-3inchs you should be good to go with using the bolts (CAREFULLY!!)

cherry picker legs are usually in the way, if doing it that way, and can make it harder.

Get another jack/block wood under the oil pan then unbolt motor mount nuts and the pitch stop. That should help but I would try the bolts first
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:49 PM   #5
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Thanks it worked! I came back at it after an hour break, this time I used the top bolts threaded by hand and cranked the crank pulley a few degrees while wiggling the engine back and forth and it went right in. Took 5 minutes.

I did not even bothered putting the jack under the motor.
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Old 02-02-2014, 05:32 PM   #6
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Default Bellhousing Long Bolts Where do they belong?

One of the two bell housing "long" bolts that go thru the starter is bottoming out.

Parts diagram only shows two washers (FIG. 005), the bolt head stll protrudes about 4mm, do I need extra washers?


Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-02-2014 at 09:58 PM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 06:11 PM   #7
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NO!!! Im 99% sure that both bolts aren't long that go thru the the starter. Re-check that your using the right bolts for the correct spots.

If you thread a long bolt thru the wrong hole you can put a hole in the block....
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Old 02-02-2014, 06:48 PM   #8
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+1

If you thread the wrong/longer bolt in and keep tightening it, you will crack the block and it will most likely leak coolant thru the bolt hole at minimum.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:12 PM   #9
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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I thought the 2 longer bolts were used for the starter to compensate for the thickness of starter mounting ears? I guess not.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:15 PM   #10
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yep you guessed wrong. The long bolts go thru holes that have opening on the other end and can't bottom out. At least 1 short bolt goes thru the starter....

You don't have anyone local that can help you out with this basic stuff?? I'm proly more nervous than you about you starting this thing..lol
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:17 PM   #11
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Haha, I guess I am not the only idiot, found my answer here, long bolts are the top ones, this guy also thought the same thing.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:21 PM   #12
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Ive made the mistake before also,....your not the only one(s). I didn't need help to figure out the issue tho
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:29 PM   #13
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Me too,
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Old 02-02-2014, 08:55 PM   #14
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Match the angle of the motor to the angle of the trans and it will slide right in when they are matched. You may want to remove your motor mounts as that will probably help you get it bolted together way easier the way you have everything hanging/supported right now. Also have someone very slowly spin the crank once the angles are matched while your trying to push it together.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:47 PM   #15
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Default Slave Cylinder Retraction

I am now mounting the slave (aka operating) cylinder to the block, the clutch fork is all the way forward towards the radiator, the cylinder rod is fully extended, thus the slave cylinder mounting ears do not line up with the holes in the block.

I tried to no avail pushing the fork backwards to make room or forcing the slave cylinder to retract, obviously I am not a match for hydraulic pressure so what's the trick?

How to retract the cylinder rod without having to resort to a bench vise?

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-02-2014 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 02-02-2014, 10:59 PM   #16
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crack the bleeder
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:20 PM   #17
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What he said ^... As long as you close it at the proper time you shouldn't get air in
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Old 02-03-2014, 12:26 AM   #18
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Aggh, I should have waited for your feedback, I cracked open the line instead of the the bleeder so now I have major air into the system, the clutch is all the way into the firewall...

And this craptacolus HF one man bleeder system is not putting enough vacuum...
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Old 02-03-2014, 03:03 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Aggh, I should have waited for your feedback, I cracked open the line instead of the the bleeder so now I have major air into the system, the clutch is all the way into the firewall...

And this craptacolus HF one man bleeder system is not putting enough vacuum...
MityVac son!
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:04 AM   #20
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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Thanks for the inspiration, just ordered this one. It does reverse bleeding, meaning injects pressure into the system, air gets bleed out at the master cylinder, I really like the concept, we'll see in practice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/COOL-TOOL-Ph...82aba9&vxp=mtr



Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-07-2014 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:58 AM   #21
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Make sure to teflon tape the bleed screw or else it'll pull air around the threads.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:38 AM   #22
Paul
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i have didnt have alot of luck using the mighty vac to bleed my clutch.....

I got it close by using a pry bar against the fork to compress the slave while I had the bleeder open. Then I'd get in car and do it that way, def helps to have a extra person
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:41 AM   #23
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Dang dude - no bueno. Maybe a second person, and you can knock it out pretty fast
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:03 PM   #24
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
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I have no friends where I live, rural community far from civilization, this has been a solo affair since day one.

I changed the title of the original thread to just Engine Install Woes, haha.

@tomacGTi: Teflon I would never thought of this great tip.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-03-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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Old 02-03-2014, 01:20 PM   #25
Paul
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all you need is someone to push the peddle for ya. You don't have any friends, GF, or family that can help?...maybe grab a bum off the corner..lol

FYI: I spent HOURS (more then I want to remember) F-in with the mighty vac and never got it bled. Then had my GF help for 15mins and had all the air out. I highly suggest you find someone to help

Last edited by Paul; 02-03-2014 at 01:25 PM.
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