Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday September 23, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-11-2014, 03:38 AM   #51
alcoolaid
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 134949
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle:
'07 SWP STi
Instagram | arthurlam89

Default

Try letting the piston come out of the slave a bit more then push it back in with the bleeder open. Looks like you have it packed hard in there.

Edit: I'm also assuming when you tried bleeding the system in the car doing the 2 man method, the long rod was in the slave and other end of the rod was in the little indent on the clutch fork? Also the clutch fork is locked into the throwout bearing?

After a while you should have started to see fluid come out. May take a couple tries. If you pull the clutch pedal up slowly instead of snapping it back up it will help as well.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by alcoolaid; 02-11-2014 at 04:48 AM.
alcoolaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 09:35 AM   #52
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

The piston slave in the bench is actually not packed hard in there, there is no rod, I am just pushing the piston flush with the end of the slave.

Yes, when I tried bleeding the system in the car doing the 2 man method, the long rod was in the slave and other end of the rod was in the little indent on the clutch fork.

The clutch fork is locked into the throwout bearing I can see it with a flashlight removing the accordion rubber boot on the bellhousing, however I can't move the fork not even with vise grips and a pipe on the vise grips as leverage.

I will retract the pedal slowly as you suggest.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 10:43 AM   #53
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

I tried again and was able to draw fluid thru conventional bleeding method with the whole system assembled out of the car, I feel good strong resistance by pushing the MC rod by hand, I can only push the MC rod about 10mm before I feel strong resistance, now I have to reinstall in the car and see.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 01:10 PM   #54
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

Culprit: Trapped air in the line, a 2nd round of "bench" conventional bleeding worked evacuating the pesky air pocket, thanks everybody for leading me to a victorious fix. In this 2nd round I also took the MC reservoir and inspected the seal, cleaned it and put it back together, this may have helped?

The 1st bench bleed did not work as I did not pump (by hand) the rod in the MC to confirm resistance, I just assumed injecting fluid thru bleeder (reverse bleed method) would push all the air out. So again failure to push the MC rod during the 1st bench bleed caused all this aggravation.

Cliff's: Bench test, conventional bleeding, test resistance by pushing MC rod by hand, if resistance then air pocket is gone.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-11-2014 at 01:39 PM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 01:15 PM   #55
Crystal_Imprezav
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 84105
Join Date: Mar 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: I'm a Newbie
Vehicle:
2005 Super Slow STi
CGM

Default

Should have gotten one of these. Would have made you life a lot easier and good to have around.

http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Crystal_Imprezav is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 01:44 PM   #56
Paul
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 56203
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: south nj
Vehicle:
00 RSTI Coupe
Twin Scroll 2.5XTR EJ207

Default

^ that wouldn't have helped him most likely


Edit: I couldn't really see that link on my phone but after taking a better look that tool looks great!

Last edited by Paul; 02-11-2014 at 02:52 PM.
Paul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-11-2014, 02:03 PM   #57
dstroy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 283711
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Newport
Vehicle:
2012 STI sedan
Black with scratches

Default

I've got one of those, works really well.
dstroy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 10:31 AM   #58
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default Car Started After 4 Months of Wrenching !! But...

Finally after 4 months of wrenching due to blown HG car started this morning but...

Car started right away, well I cranked the engine with throttle on the floor to prime the turbo a half dozen times, then played with throttle and car started right away, rpms were kind or erractic between 1000 to 2000 it would fluctuate back and forth until stabilized at around 900, I did not wait until further warmed up and stopped the car as the garage began to fill with thick white smoke so I stopped the engine.

The midpipe is right next the downpipe but they are not connected, not sure if the exhaust from downpipe is pushing any remaining/standing coolant in the midpipe/muffler hence the white smoke, but again they are not connected there is a gap of 1in so I would think the downpipe exhaust would not get into the midpipe to push any standing coolant in the midpipe/muffler?

What to do next?
  1. Let the car run a few more minutes and hope white smoke dissipates?
  2. When cars burn oil (blue smoke) is it evident is blue or looks white with a hint of blue? I guess I can take some video?[/b]
  3. Should I drop the headers and see if I am pushing coolant? Hope not this is a brand new HG with zero miles...
  4. Other?

Things I have done to the car:

Block/Head decking
Replaced piston rings
Lappped valves
New HG, spark plugs, timing belt, water pump, conditioner, Subaru coolant, replaced all engine hoses, new PCV, new rad/reservoir caps, new thermostat, new O-rings, gaskets, Subaru RTVs.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 11:07 AM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 10:42 AM   #59
theSlothy1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 173321
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: New Glasgow, NS
Vehicle:
2007 SWP WRX
dom2.5xtr w/ meth & 6spd

Default

When I split a sleeve, it took a good day of driving to get the fluids burnt out of the exhaust after I got it running again.
theSlothy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 10:46 AM   #60
Paul
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 56203
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: south nj
Vehicle:
00 RSTI Coupe
Twin Scroll 2.5XTR EJ207

Default

You burped the coolant system and had the car come upto operating temp?

The smoke could be alot of things and unless its really bad I wouldn't worry too much. Theres going be some smoke from residue left, that gets burned off. Open the garage and let the car idle for 10-15mins and keep a eye on everything.


there shouldn't be any coolant in the headers or exhaust but if there is you will be pulling the motor again. If you do that I suggest you don't skimp out on important steps this time around


Quote:
Originally Posted by theSlothy1 View Post
When I split a sleeve, it took a good day of driving to get the fluids burnt out of the exhaust after I got it running again.
how do you split a sleeve and then get the car running again
Paul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 10:50 AM   #61
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

I did not wait to have the car reach operating temp. Using the yellow funnel system to burp it, the funnel is still on the reservoir tank with still some coolant, I did squeeze the rad hoses to get some trap air out but again only ran the car a couple of minutes, I was surprised by the sheer amount of smoke in so little time so I just killed the engine.

I will start the car again and take some video this time of the smoke.


Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 11:03 AM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 10:56 AM   #62
Paul
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 56203
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: south nj
Vehicle:
00 RSTI Coupe
Twin Scroll 2.5XTR EJ207

Default

then you didn't let the car run long enough. Do what I said while keeping an eye on coolant temp along with everything else.

That funnel is the BEST for burping...where'd you get it?
Paul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 11:02 AM   #63
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

Thanks Paul, I will do as you suggest, funnel came from Amazon. BTW, I do not skimp on things, I always get Subaru genuine parts, pretty anal about everything, distilled water, Subaru conditioner, new hoses, gaskets, rad/reservoir new caps, torque settings, have the FSM printed, replaced all hoses, clamps, O-rings, you name it I have done to this HG replacement/piston ring refresh.

Only thing I did not do is hone the cylinder walls for this new STD size Subaru piston rings, I just don't trust machine shops so I decided not to do it, it was not a matter of money is that I do not trust anybody weh it comes to my car, even if I screw things up at least I am learning, this is the best school, learn from your mistakes, and the beauty of DIY is you can be as anal as you want and take all the time in the world to do things right, in my case it was 4 months.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 11:15 AM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 11:07 AM   #64
theSlothy1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 173321
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: E. Canada
Location: New Glasgow, NS
Vehicle:
2007 SWP WRX
dom2.5xtr w/ meth & 6spd

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
how do you split a sleeve and then get the car running again
Obviously with a new shortblock.
theSlothy1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 11:10 AM   #65
AlexWRXbruh
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 373710
Join Date: Nov 2013
Chapter/Region: International
Location: Bolton, MA
Vehicle:
2002 Subaru WRX
Porsche White

Default

Check ur crank case ventilation connections and fix that exhaust leak
AlexWRXbruh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 11:16 AM   #66
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

Restarted the car for about 5 minutes, and had to stop again due to coolant coming out of the downpipe and headers...this is new coolant, headers and downpipe were cleaned and drained from the original blown HG leak, what the heck? Ideas? Drop the headers and crank engine to see if cylinders spit out coolant?


Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 12:24 PM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 02:13 PM   #67
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

Took down headers, they are dry inside so I am somewhat relieved. New water pump could be leaking that's why the top header tubing has coolant dripping down its side (see pic), the header is down below the water pump, but why then there is also coolant out of the downpipe, it makes no sense, need troubleshooting ideas pleaassssssssse.

Another culprit could be the top rad hose, but I don't see any traces of leaks.

Can I run the engine without the headers for 5 min or so?, risk of burning exh valves?, no header will give me more room to inspect for leaks while the engine is running. I did not install the timing belt cover so I will be able to inspect the water pump closely.

I also noticed there is coolant by the funnel, maybe the so called "spill free" funnel is not so spill free and while I was in the car it burped out coolant eventually making its way to the header tubing. But that does not explain why there is coolant coming out of the downpipe, unless it wasn't as dry as I thought and had captive coolant in the catalytic converter for four months.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 02:38 PM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 02:47 PM   #68
alcoolaid
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 134949
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle:
'07 SWP STi
Instagram | arthurlam89

Default

Coolant on the outside of the headers most likely external leak like you said. Make sure all connections are tight and try to see where it's leaking from when engine is running.

How much liquid is coming out of the downpipe?

It's pretty normal for the exhaust to smoke for a few mins. As long as it slowly gets better you're good to go. The moisture spraying out of the downpipe is most likely condensation IMO.

If there was THAT much liquid coming out you would probably see coolant massive coolant loss and the engine would idle like crap or die the moment you rev it up.
alcoolaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 02:48 PM   #69
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

It was idling like crap, 1000-2000 rpm fluctuations, out of downpipe I am getting drops but a lot of white heavy smoke, I have video, is taking over two hours to upload. This does not look like condensation, the drops are dark green like the new coolant I just poured in.

Can I run the engine without headers for a few minutes?, it will help me inspect for leaks, thankfully I did not install the timing belt cover as I am waiting for the camshaft sprocket plate/cover O-rings.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 02:58 PM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 02:52 PM   #70
alcoolaid
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 134949
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle:
'07 SWP STi
Instagram | arthurlam89

Default

From the picture of the headers looks like the coolant is coming off the subframe? Looks pretty evenly distributed left and right. Other place could be the pipe/hoses that go from water pump to the oem oil cooler/heater. It passes over top that area.

If it's coming off the subframe maybe inspect radiator for leaks, drain plug is not leaking, etc.
alcoolaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:00 PM   #71
alcoolaid
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 134949
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle:
'07 SWP STi
Instagram | arthurlam89

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
It was idling like crap, out of downpipe I have getting drops but a lot of smoke, I have video, is taking over two hours to upload. This does not look like condensation, the drops are dark green like the new coolant I just poured in. Can I run the engine without headers for a few minutes, it will help me inspect for leaks, thankfully I did not install the timing belt cover as I am waiting for the camshaft sprocket plate/cover O-rings.
It would be insanely loud and the ecu wouldn't be able to use the air fuel sensor to make fueling corrections.

I would hook up the exhaust and run it longer. With no external leaks of course. Just get under there with the motor running and try to see the dripping.
alcoolaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:00 PM   #72
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default

Yes, I am suspecting the oil cooler coolant line, maybe the oil cooler is plugged? Car had not reached operating temperature, I was not playing with the throttle.

You have good points man, thanks I will continue with inspection.

Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 04:48 PM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 03:21 PM   #73
Paul
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 56203
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: south nj
Vehicle:
00 RSTI Coupe
Twin Scroll 2.5XTR EJ207

Default

If theres coolant on outside of the headers its proly a external leak. Look around all water sources but that goes without saying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN View Post
Thanks Paul, I will do as you suggest, funnel came from Amazon. BTW, I do not skimp on things, I always get Subaru genuine parts, pretty anal about everything, distilled water, Subaru conditioner, new hoses, gaskets, rad/reservoir new caps, torque settings, have the FSM printed, replaced all hoses, clamps, O-rings, you name it I have done to this HG replacement/piston ring refresh.

Only thing I did not do is hone the cylinder walls for this new STD size Subaru piston rings, I just don't trust machine shops so I decided not to do it, it was not a matter of money is that I do not trust anybody weh it comes to my car, even if I screw things up at least I am learning, this is the best school, learn from your mistakes, and the beauty of DIY is you can be as anal as you want and take all the time in the world to do things right, in my case it was 4 months.
I could be wrong, since you made multiple threads asking different questions or could be confusing you with someone else, but I was referring to you decking the block without breaking it down and having a local non-suby shop do the work. Pretty sure you did other things I would do differently also but don't remember off the top of my heads other than the decking.
Paul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 04:43 PM   #74
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 191212
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Nashboringville
Vehicle:
2007 FXT-5MT E85 20G
TD06SL2 TurboTektuning

Default


Last edited by V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN; 02-13-2014 at 05:29 PM.
V8 GTFO Lesbic WGN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2014, 05:14 PM   #75
alcoolaid
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 134949
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: Vancouver, BC
Vehicle:
'07 SWP STi
Instagram | arthurlam89

Default

Looks normal to me if it's really 50F out. Let it idle up to operating temp

Also check for vac leaks. Usually what causes the idle to go up and down. Could unplug the maf to see if it smooths out too
alcoolaid is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.