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Old 03-05-2014, 11:05 PM   #26
07STifastashell
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This whole situation is unusual. But ya know what, I've learned something from this experience. I think that any builder that says you can heavily modify your car and have it still be reliable is full of ****, at least not for these Subarus. My car was supposed to be SUPER reliable with this set up (didn't go crazy with mods, conservative/very safe tune, GM iat, etc) but it's been anything but that. Anyways, I'm going to keep driving it for a while, keep the oil filled up and hope that it doesn't spin a bearing or blow up.
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Old 03-06-2014, 02:17 AM   #27
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Don't take this the wrong way, but seeing that you're making about 65 to 70% more power than stock, I don't think it should be much of a shock that these stock blocks may have some trouble living behind that type of power.

The power is all relative. There aren't many stock blocks that will offer OEM reliability pushing 65-70% more power than stock. No matter what your tuner or builder tells you, you're trying to push a 2.5 liter block designed for 305hp to run over 450hp. That's 180hp per liter. For perspective, a Veyron is "only" making around 125hp per liter. Push 180hp per liter through it and it too will have problems.

Sure there are many 350-500whp+ WRXs running around the world, but I certainly wouldn't rely on one as my sole means of transportation. They break and break often.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:18 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by 07STifastashell View Post
This whole situation is unusual. But ya know what, I've learned something from this experience. I think that any builder that says you can heavily modify your car and have it still be reliable is full of ****, at least not for these Subarus. My car was supposed to be SUPER reliable with this set up (didn't go crazy with mods, conservative/very safe tune, GM iat, etc) but it's been anything but that. Anyways, I'm going to keep driving it for a while, keep the oil filled up and hope that it doesn't spin a bearing or blow up.
youre going to keep driving it as is and hope nothing else happens
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:32 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by 07STifastashell View Post
A couple thousand miles ago, I was having a misfire in one cylinder because my Ignition coil went out in cylinder 2.
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Originally Posted by MPS-Dom View Post
2.Cylinder damage: Repeated misfires from a bad coil pack can wash down a cylinder, remove the oil lubricating it and cause scoring and poor oil control ring seal. I suppose if he pulls whatever cylinder had the bad coil pack and that plug is covered in oil residue then it's possible that his previous bad coil pack damaged the cylinder.
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Results are in. Spark plug on #2 was flooded with oil. Compression numbers: 138 120 140 123. Leak down: 0 20% 0 0. Needs new short block. ****.
Does any body else read on this site or do they like to jump to conclusions right away?

Dom called the problem right away without the diagnosis from AWD Auto, and it sounds to me like you're blaming MPS? Don't get me wrong, not trying to stir the pot, just trying to re-iterate information that was already conveyed, and then ignored.

But, looking at doms diagnosis and your testimony, it sounds like you did in fact score the cylinder walls while washing down that cylinder. Now the oil retention ring and piston ring can't do it's job and you're getting massive amounts of oil blow by/consumption.

How long did you drive with that cyl 2 bad coil pack?
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:58 AM   #30
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Does any body else read on this site or do they like to jump to conclusions right away?

Dom called the problem right away without the diagnosis from AWD Auto, and it sounds to me like you're blaming MPS? Don't get me wrong, not trying to stir the pot, just trying to re-iterate information that was already conveyed, and then ignored.

But, looking at doms diagnosis and your testimony, it sounds like you did in fact score the cylinder walls while washing down that cylinder. Now the oil retention ring and piston ring can't do it's job and you're getting massive amounts of oil blow by/consumption.

How long did you drive with that cyl 2 bad coil pack?
Approximately 20 miles right to AWD Auto. Look, I'm not trying to blame MPS here. **** happens. I understand that. Sometimes there are just factors that come up that make stuff go wrong that no one can really control. Whereas I'm not trying to blame anyone, I do feel like I was misled by being told repeatedly that this would be a completely safe and conservative set up that would be just as reliable as OEM. That's what I'm upset about. I guess I was just naive to believe that. But whatever, damage is done now. There's nothing anyone can do about it now.
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Old 03-06-2014, 12:02 PM   #31
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youre going to keep driving it as is and hope nothing else happens
Why does that confuse you? It seems that the rings have separated on cylinder 2. Like I've said earlier in the thread, the car is completely drivable, it just burns oil. As long as I keep the oil level at a heathly level, nothing else should happen. Plus, if something does, who cares. It needs a new short block anyways...
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:46 PM   #32
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Why does that confuse you? It seems that the rings have separated on cylinder 2. Like I've said earlier in the thread, the car is completely drivable, it just burns oil. As long as I keep the oil level at a heathly level, nothing else should happen. Plus, if something does, who cares. It needs a new short block anyways...
Sir, you've clearly not seen the amount of parts that have to be replaced when other things fail. Look at any (good) rebuild of a spun rod bearing (just had one happen, fixed under warranty -- thank you SOA! ), and you'll notice how many parts are on the list. AVCS gears, oil cooler, longblock, and the list goes on.
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Old 03-06-2014, 05:00 PM   #33
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Sir, you've clearly not seen the amount of parts that have to be replaced when other things fail. Look at any (good) rebuild of a spun rod bearing (just had one happen, fixed under warranty -- thank you SOA! ), and you'll notice how many parts are on the list. AVCS gears, oil cooler, longblock, and the list goes on.
I've had a spun rod bearing too... So I've been through the process. A full rebuild with new short block was quoted at $6k by the Subaru dealership, assuming that the heads were ok and just needed to be washed out. Like I said, if I keep the right amount of oil in the car, it has no reason to spin a bearing as that happens due to oil starvation. The only things that would need to be replaced right now if I chose to fix it would be short block and pistons. Of course that's less than a spun rod bearing but what I was trying to say is, I don't really care if anything else fails. But that shouldn't happen.
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Old 03-06-2014, 05:17 PM   #34
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I've had a spun rod bearing too... So I've been through the process. A full rebuild with new short block was quoted at $6k by the Subaru dealership, assuming that the heads were ok and just needed to be washed out. Like I said, if I keep the right amount of oil in the car, it has no reason to spin a bearing as that happens due to oil starvation. The only things that would need to be replaced right now if I chose to fix it would be short block and pistons. Of course that's less than a spun rod bearing but what I was trying to say is, I don't really care if anything else fails. But that shouldn't happen.
Ahh. I got ya now. I will say though, most places refuse to wash out parts after a bearing failure. It often leads to problems down the road (most engine builders can attest to this). Even the dealership I was at did. Also, as to having an unreliable high power car, bull****

I know several people with good engine builds that have been pushing massive amounts of power for awhile. Look at Cobb's time attack car, Shiloh Bradford who has a 600WHP STi that is daily driven and hasn't broken, and he's had it around that power level (580 previous tune IIRC) for at least a year or more. It really depends on the engine builder and the tune.
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:28 PM   #35
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So just pull it out and swap your internals into a new/used block. $500 tops and really not that hard. If you have a car making this kind of power you probably should be able to do this stuff yourself. Depending on what exactly is cracked you may be able to have it repaired/better than now for not a ton more. If you can find the right source sleeves are really not that expensive and there are machine shops all over that can handle the job.
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:40 PM   #36
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Why does that confuse you? It seems that the rings have separated on cylinder 2. Like I've said earlier in the thread, the car is completely drivable, it just burns oil. As long as I keep the oil level at a heathly level, nothing else should happen. Plus, if something does, who cares. It needs a new short block anyways...
What the hell is wrong with you?
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:09 PM   #37
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So just pull it out and swap your internals into a new/used block. $500 tops and really not that hard. If you have a car making this kind of power you probably should be able to do this stuff yourself. Depending on what exactly is cracked you may be able to have it repaired/better than now for not a ton more. If you can find the right source sleeves are really not that expensive and there are machine shops all over that can handle the job.
$500? You're ****ing delusional, guy. A new short block is $2500. Of course you can get a used one for less...But I'd still have to get new 99.5 JE forged pistons ($700+). I'm a full time student and don't have time to do all of this by myself, there's just no way that's a possibility. Also, don't ask me what the hell is wrong with me. It's not your car, bud, so settle down. OF COURSE I don't want anything else to go wrong with it, and nothing will, but if for some crazy reason it did, it wouldn't be the end of the world as a lot of work already needs to be done on it to get it back in shape.
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:31 PM   #38
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There's a thread in here somewhere about how long people drove their Subies with blown engines. Some people have gone quite far. It's a roll of the dice however -- something could always break loose and tear its way through your motor.

I went 8k with a cracked ringland -- probably more, as it had been blown for a while, I think, before I discovered the blowby.
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:37 PM   #39
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There's a thread in here somewhere about how long people drove their Subies with blown engines. Some people have gone quite far. It's a roll of the dice however -- something could always break loose and tear its way through your motor.

I went 8k with a cracked ringland -- probably more, as it had been blown for a while, I think, before I discovered the blowby.
Haha that sounds like an entertaining thread. It's probably been around 2k miles already, and I plan on trading for a 370z (most likely) within the next few weeks.
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Old 03-06-2014, 07:55 PM   #40
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Haha that sounds like an entertaining thread. It's probably been around 2k miles already, and I plan on trading for a 370z (most likely) within the next few weeks.
Oh no!! Why go from one problem to the next??
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:01 PM   #41
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Oh no!! Why go from one problem to the next??
Ok well then I have no idea what to get, I've been thinking about it but can't think of anything else. I can compromise power a little bit but I don't want to go from 440hp to like 200...
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:11 PM   #42
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Ok well then I have no idea what to get, I've been thinking about it but can't think of anything else. I can compromise power a little bit but I don't want to go from 440hp to like 200...
want ur car to not die over n over? Dont try to build a race car that you daily drive then...if i were you, i woulda learned my lesson by now. Simple mods like a grimmspeed three port, cai, tbe, silicone hoses, maybe an sti top mount, on a stock turbo will give you more than enough fun. **** the fact that your block is potentially trashed...what if you crashed it or someone else hit you? This happened in my 04 accord v6..i had poured good money after bad into the thing..a lil under 6k in total, about 350whp...i got cut off by a jeep and BOOM..my motor was pushed into my 6spd tranny n it cracked both the block and casing...i will never dump that much money into a car that i want to be a race car again n drive it everyday EVER again! Waste of time n money, if its meant to go super fast n carries lots of value its not worth any of the risks...buy a stock block n go back to the good old days!!
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:30 PM   #43
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want ur car to not die over n over? Dont try to build a race car that you daily drive then...if i were you, i woulda learned my lesson by now. Simple mods like a grimmspeed three port, cai, tbe, silicone hoses, maybe an sti top mount, on a stock turbo will give you more than enough fun. **** the fact that your block is potentially trashed...what if you crashed it or someone else hit you? This happened in my 04 accord v6..i had poured good money after bad into the thing..a lil under 6k in total, about 350whp...i got cut off by a jeep and BOOM..my motor was pushed into my 6spd tranny n it cracked both the block and casing...i will never dump that much money into a car that i want to be a race car again n drive it everyday EVER again! Waste of time n money, if its meant to go super fast n carries lots of value its not worth any of the risks...buy a stock block n go back to the good old days!!
Going back to stock would cost way too much money now. I have NO stock parts and don't want to buy them all over again. I'm going to keep the 370z stock minus straight pipe cbe.
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:03 PM   #44
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Going back to stock would cost way too much money now. I have NO stock parts and don't want to buy them all over again. I'm going to keep the 370z stock minus straight pipe cbe.
Good luck with that as u have the mod bug and is very hard to go back that is why I stated one problem to the next as the 370z will cost twice as much problems and money.

Just like already mentioned as a daily driver just get a normal ever day car and save your Pennys for something u won't need to mod and be happy with it or build a track monster for weekend duty.

With u only having a cracked block can't u just buy a used block and get it machined plus transfer your goodys over minus the piston rings??
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Old 03-06-2014, 09:51 PM   #45
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$500? You're ****ing delusional, guy. A new short block is $2500. Of course you can get a used one for less...But I'd still have to get new 99.5 JE forged pistons ($700+). I'm a full time student and don't have time to do all of this by myself, there's just no way that's a possibility. Also, don't ask me what the hell is wrong with me. It's not your car, bud, so settle down. OF COURSE I don't want anything else to go wrong with it, and nothing will, but if for some crazy reason it did, it wouldn't be the end of the world as a lot of work already needs to be done on it to get it back in shape.
You need to find out where that oil is going, tear it down and fix it. If you can't find a bare block for less than $500 you are a sucker. I personally know where to find long blocks for $300 (if they are running!), $150 as a "core". You just need to look around. Chances are right now there is only 1 failed part, which will be relatively easy and cheap to fix. Or you can continue driving it and be back at square one looking for a whole new short/long block. In all honesty a built car you push so hard shouldn't be your only means of transportation, you are just asking to be SOL with no car and a huge repair bill if you cannot do the work yourself.

As of now you don't even know where the oil is coming from, that would be my first priority at this point. It should be obvious if it's going through that much. Maybe start by pulling/looking at the plugs (it's free, quick and tells quite a story), might as well stick a compression tester on it while you've got the plugs out.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:03 PM   #46
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You need to find out where that oil is going, tear it down and fix it. If you can't find a bare block for less than $500 you are a sucker. I personally know where to find long blocks for $300 (if they are running!), $150 as a "core". You just need to look around. Chances are right now there is only 1 failed part, which will be relatively easy and cheap to fix. Or you can continue driving it and be back at square one looking for a whole new short/long block. In all honesty a built car you push so hard shouldn't be your only means of transportation, you are just asking to be SOL with no car and a huge repair bill if you cannot do the work yourself.

As of now you don't even know where the oil is coming from, that would be my first priority at this point. It should be obvious if it's going through that much. Maybe start by pulling/looking at the plugs (it's free, quick and tells quite a story), might as well stick a compression tester on it while you've got the plugs out.
You get me a running longblock for 300 and ill paypal you 300 for your back pocket
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:12 PM   #47
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Good luck with that as u have the mod bug and is very hard to go back that is why I stated one problem to the next as the 370z will cost twice as much problems and money.

Just like already mentioned as a daily driver just get a normal ever day car and save your Pennys for something u won't need to mod and be happy with it or build a track monster for weekend duty.

With u only having a cracked block can't u just buy a used block and get it machined plus transfer your goodys over minus the piston rings??
Could get a new shortblock but the problem is, my pistons are 99.75 so I'd need to get 99.5 ones to fit the new bores. There's no way I'd machine the new one, plus I'd need new pistons anyways. Oil ring and piston ring separated. And nah man, I don't really have the mod bug. It was fun, yeah, but I can live without it as long as the next car I get is decently fast stock. I only modded this one after I spun a rod bearing or else I would have stayed stage 1 indefinitely.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:18 PM   #48
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You get me a running longblock for 300 and ill paypal you 300 for your back pocket
I'd be happy to sell you one for $3k, as that's what everyone seems to think they are worth anyway.
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:37 PM   #49
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I'd be happy to sell you one for $3k, as that's what everyone seems to think they are worth anyway.
Haha. You said 300... id be giving you 100% return on your investment. Thats a win-win no?
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Old 03-06-2014, 10:40 PM   #50
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I'd be happy to sell you one for $3k, as that's what everyone seems to think they are worth anyway.
Also, if you've even ****ing read through this thread you'd already know that the plugs were already checked, and a compression and leak down test has been done. Jesus dude...
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