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Old 03-10-2014, 04:56 PM   #1
Chris-pee
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Default 2006 WRX not boosting past/stuttering at 10 psi

This morning my car, 06 Wrx Cobb ots stage 2 catless DP with 104k , started bucking harshly at 10 psi no matter what gear I was in. Pulled codes and there was 6.

P1518-starter switch input low
P0851-neutral switch input low
P1153-02 B1 input high
P1152-02 B1 input low
P0502-speed sensor input low
P0503-speed sensor input erratic .

Any ideas? Idles fine and runs smooth until 10psi when it bucks and check engine light starts flashing.

This is a short log of 1st and 2nd gear. I didn't want to force it to boost much more because of how violent it feels when the stuttering happens.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...VE&hl=en#gid=0

Any insight? I have had has this map on the car for 20k plus with no issues.
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Last edited by Chris-pee; 03-11-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:00 PM   #2
SlimJim8804
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My first thought was plugs/plug gap or something else ignition related. But those codes add a new element.

Strange. Sub'd for updates. Bump for you.
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:59 PM   #3
danger1138
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Run another datalog (shorter), and include the injector parameters. Maybe that'll give more insight to whats going on. Your DAM (dynamic advance multiplier) is at .75 which is not the worst thing in the world but not good either.

Other than data logging i would Try reducing the gap on your plugs first or swapping them out for new plugs all together.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:28 PM   #4
jakedademon
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Grounding issue. I'm callin it.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:49 PM   #5
Chris-pee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakedademon View Post
Grounding issue. I'm callin it.
You are the second person to say this.

I will tun a shorter 2nd gear log in the morning, will post asap.
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:03 PM   #6
Chris-pee
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In that vein, what are the stock grounding points besides the neg cable?

Last edited by Chris-pee; 03-11-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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Old 03-11-2014, 09:24 AM   #7
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Here is a log from this morning, 3rd gear.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...EE&usp=sharing

It threw a new code this morning, Cylinder 1 misfire. Also a code that said PFFFF.

I forgot to log injector parameters. Ill take another log today.
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Old 03-12-2014, 03:45 PM   #8
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The misfire at 10psi is now a misfire at all rpms. From idle and up.
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:36 PM   #9
Dougbo9807
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My car was acting similar a few weeks back. Rough idle and violent bucking at 6K through all gears Replaced my front o2 sensor and it's gone.
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Old 03-12-2014, 10:23 PM   #10
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Have you checked you speed sensor... I mean you do have a code for it!?.
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:29 AM   #11
Chris-pee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razgeiz View Post
Have you checked you speed sensor... I mean you do have a code for it!?.
It turns out, it has no codes stored at all. The original set of codes I pulled were due to the green test connectors still being plugged in . I am not a smart man. Which further stumps me. It's is back to only misfiring at 10psi pretty badly.

Added three grounds, changed plugs again. Check for vacuum, boost leaks.

Here is a new datalog with injector information.

Does the duty cycle seem low?

This is 3rd gear

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...rive_web#gid=0
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Old 03-19-2014, 07:40 AM   #12
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Clean your MAF, check the wiring to your front O2 sensor and make sure it isn't melted. There's a ground pack right in front of the coolant expansion tank on the intake manifold, that's where the main engine harness ecu ground is located. Tear in your inlet after the MAF would do this also. So would a boost leak, did you remove the TMIC and check both hoses?
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstroy View Post
Clean your MAF, check the wiring to your front O2 sensor and make sure it isn't melted. There's a ground pack right in front of the coolant expansion tank on the intake manifold, that's where the main engine harness ecu ground is located. Tear in your inlet after the MAF would do this also. So would a boost leak, did you remove the TMIC and check both hoses?
I cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner two days ago. I did check the ground on the manifold in front of the tank. I added on there back to the frame as well. I pulled the TMIC and checked pipes and hoses back there. Nothing visibly wrong. I cleaned the ground from the transmission
To the firewall and the main ground by the starter. Pulls 20 inhg at idle. Runs perfectly fine until 10psi. I checked the 02 wiring as well. It clear of everything and physically in good shape.
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Old 03-19-2014, 08:25 AM   #14
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Try pulling your inlet off and check turbo play.
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:12 AM   #15
Chris-pee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dstroy View Post
Try pulling your inlet off and check turbo play.
Will do. Threw a cyl 1 misfore code this morning as well.
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Old 03-19-2014, 04:58 PM   #16
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Might be worth a compression test, possibly a weak coil pack in that cylinder? Were the new plugs gapped properly?
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:03 PM   #17
Chris-pee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimJim8804 View Post
Might be worth a compression test, possibly a weak coil pack in that cylinder? Were the new plugs gapped properly?
I tried but old compression gauge took a crap on me. The plugs were gapped to .030. Put NGK coppers in it for the time being.
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Old 03-19-2014, 05:05 PM   #18
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What are some signs of low commpression? If any.
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:20 AM   #19
Shiftace420
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Vacuum gauge will bounce around alot when hooked to the intake port if the a cylinder or 2 is low on compression because those cylinders are using a different amount of air then a higher compression cylinder.

Along with that. The vacuum levels roughly measure the amount of air your engine pulls vs the throttle plate restriction. Higher vacuum levels mean a healther engine drawing more air because the compression is better.

It must be noted your vacuum levels vary with alitude and barometric pressure. If your in TX you should be pretty close to XX" on the gauge or something. Compare it to another good engine.

The needle should be smooth at idle with no changes or bouncing for the most part.

The test gauges are about 15 bucks. Dont rely on your stock boost gauge its not accurate enough to tell much.
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:27 AM   #20
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris-pee View Post
This morning my car, 06 Wrx Cobb ots stage 2 catless DP with 104k , started bucking harshly at 10 psi no matter what gear I was in. Pulled codes and there was 6.

P1518-starter switch input low
P0851-neutral switch input low
P1153-02 B1 input high
P1152-02 B1 input low
P0502-speed sensor input low
P0503-speed sensor input erratic .

Any ideas? Idles fine and runs smooth until 10psi when it bucks and check engine light starts flashing.

This is a short log of 1st and 2nd gear. I didn't want to force it to boost much more because of how violent it feels when the stuttering happens.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/...VE&hl=en#gid=0

Any insight? I have had has this map on the car for 20k plus with no issues.

behind the battery, below the fuse box are 2 LARGE connectors...check them for corrosion and condition
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Old 03-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #21
Chris-pee
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Its a long ignorant story, but I fixed it! It turned out being the #1 coil. At first I put a new coil onto a broken spark plug on #1. It didn't help so I ruled out the coil. Never thought to test it again after I found out the plug was broken. Pretty sure I fixed a boost leak in all of this though so it wasn't all for naught. Thank you to everyone that chimed in, I really appreciate it. Car runs better than ever.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:52 PM   #22
Shiftace420
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Nice. The ol switcharoo. That was almost too perfect. Nice spotting.

Glad you got it fixed.

Codes all gone as well I'm guessing. You said violent you were not kiding. It was tossing your drivetrain for a loop to set that 503 and 502
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:02 PM   #23
Chris-pee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shiftace420 View Post
Nice. The ol switcharoo. That was almost too perfect. Nice spotting.

Glad you got it fixed.

Codes all gone as well I'm guessing. You said violent you were not kiding. It was tossing your drivetrain for a loop to set that 503 and 502
Thank you. The codes, funny story. Turns out If you pull the codes with the green test connectors plugged in you get those codes. Next time I will remove my head from my ass before attempting any repairs.
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Old 03-20-2014, 03:43 PM   #24
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lol glad its fixed
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:28 PM   #25
SlimJim8804
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Often times, stuttering is ignition related.
I've had similar issues on several turbocharged cars in the past, and it's almost always been ignition related
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