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Old 06-20-2014, 01:19 PM   #176
JSC Speed
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Out at Johnson Controls in Glendale WI for the Optima Batteries Hotdog and Hotrods car show as part of the Ultimate Street Car Association competitoon taking place at Road America this weekend. Follow our Facebook at jscspeed.fb or our Instagram at @jscspeed for event updates and photos.
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Old 06-20-2014, 06:16 PM   #177
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Have Johnson Controls throw some Recaro's in it!
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:16 AM   #178
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What do you speculate will happen when manufacturers "adjust" their coilovers from previous generations for the new '15's? Stiffer springs? Greater valving?
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:02 AM   #179
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Originally Posted by Sinsear View Post
What do you speculate will happen when manufacturers "adjust" their coilovers from previous generations for the new '15's? Stiffer springs? Greater valving?
I hope more travel, proper rates, and proper valving, but that could be a while.

The 08-14 gear works for what most people will want to do with the car (that is to say it is fine for daily driving, a little spirited driving, and stance) but we are finding out they aren't really ideal for autocross and time attack style track events.




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Old 06-24-2014, 01:38 PM   #180
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Are you guys seeing solid numbers improvement with the Ecutek? And any idea when thats gonna be available? Great work btw.
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Old 06-24-2014, 04:29 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinsear View Post
What do you speculate will happen when manufacturers "adjust" their coilovers from previous generations for the new '15's? Stiffer springs? Greater valving?
HKS engineers tested and fit their Hipermax Max IV GT(street coilovers) onto my car and a lot of what they told me was lost in translation, but IIRC they said 12k/10k springs F/R, updated valving(softer I think) and increased travel in the strut.
I can't say for sure and I guess the best people to hear it from is them. They haven't updated their website yet, but supposedly my car will be on it
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Old 06-30-2014, 02:53 PM   #182
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Looks really good!!
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:07 PM   #183
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JSCREDWRX Gets a Brake Upgrade

When we first got our 2015 WRX we took it to the track to identify areas that needed to be improved. The biggest problem we had with the equipment Subaru outfitted the new car with was the brakes. On the street stock 2-piston fronts and 1-piston rears were perfectly adequate; they could stop the car quickly and safely. But on the track the factory binders couldn't keep up with the rigorous demands of repeated high load braking.
We talked about our first steps of replacing the pads, fluid, and lines in an earlier post. This made a noticeable improvement in braking performance, but was still not enough bite or heat dissipation for track use. We turned to our friends at Essex Parts Service who are our AP Racing and Ferodo supplier to see if they had gotten their hands on a 2015 WRX yet to get a kit developed. We volunteered to drive down to NC so they could use ours, but they had beat us to the punch by picking up one themselves. A couple of days later we got word that their Essex Competition Brake System for the 04-14 STI kit would bolt on to the front as long as we had larger than stock wheels, which we do.

A day later a bunch of AP Racing boxes arrived at our door. The Essex Competition Brake System includes a pair of AP Racing CP3850 4-piston forged calipers, AP Racing CP3908 325mmx32mm 2-piece heavy duty rotors, mounting brackets, stainless steel lines, and amazingly detailed instructions. We opted to get two sets of Ferodo pads to match the new binders: DS2500 for street and autocross and DS1.1 for track use.



Installation of the new gear took less than an hour, thanks to the excellent instructions Essex includes. Everything is detailed and all of the parts fit perfectly. We had problems bleeding the new caliper, but that was user error and no fault of AP Racing or Essex. Once we got smart enough to figure out how to properly bleed these beauties, we were rewarded with a rock hard brake pedal, amazing improvement in stopping ability, and world class on-track durability. Not only were we getting a larger swept area for pad contact and more heat sink from the larger rotors, but the new, bigger rig is 12lbs per corner lighter than Subaru's OEM caliper and rotor. 24 pounds off the front axle is nothing to sneeze at.


Our first test of the Essex Competition Brake system was at the Ultimate Street Car Association's Shootout at Road America. We would be using the short course (the old Skip Barber course that cuts out T14-T4). For the time attack portion and the go-kart track for the autocross. We knew going into Road America's Canada Corner lap after lap at speed would require a stout brake kit.

The AP Racing calipers and rotors worked wonderfully with the Ferodo DS2500s (we opted for the less aggressive pad due to the event’s format, knowing we wouldn't get full bite from the DS1.1s in the autocross portion of the day). We did experience some fade in our third session of the day, likely the result of using the wrong compound for the job, but a brief rest and a quick bleed and refresh of fluid brought the pedal back to life (again, this is due to user error, not any fault of the Essex kit). The #jscredwrx brought home third place in the AWD class behind two well prepped and well driven GTRs. Without the confidence we had from the AP Racing gear, we would not have done so well.




We followed the Road America event up with a quick day trip to our home track, New Jersey Motorsports Park, for their On-track Experience day on the Thunderbolt Circuit where Justin@JSC was instructing. For this event we took the ten minutes to swap the DS2500s out and dropped in the DS1.1s. Once these got bedded in (about one lap) we were absolutely amazed at the amount of bite these pads had. Breathtaking (quite literally for one passenger) stopping ability. We spent all day pounding on the DS1.1s and they never once displayed any sign of fade or degradation of bite. The AP Racing calipers with the Ferodo DS1.1 are definitely a track dedicated set up, one we are glad to have on our car. When the day was over we took another ten minutes to swap back to the DS2500s for the drive home and the regular commute our WRX sees.

As you can tell by the pictures, the DS2500 create a good deal of brake dust. If you are a clean wheel connoisseur, these are not the pads you are looking for. We got less dust from the DS1.1s, but they are not great at cold stops and squeal like banshees when they are not hot, so they are not at all appropriate for street use. Fortunately, the AP CP3850 calipers use a very common pad shape so there are myriad compounds to choose from and the pad swap is super easy so changing the pads at your event is a no brainer.

We know Essex is working on a rear upgrade kit for the car and hope they can make that happen soon.
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Old 07-02-2014, 12:49 PM   #184
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wow that's a lot of break dust! At first look I thought they where painted that color haha..
Glad they preformed great at the track.. Thumbs up!
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:02 PM   #185
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Originally Posted by Jason2015wrx View Post
wow that's a lot of break dust! At first look I thought they where painted that color haha..
Glad they preformed great at the track.. Thumbs up!
I had more than a few people touch the wheels to see if that was the wheel color...they all walked away wiping their hands on their pants. It was pretty funny to watch.
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Old 07-02-2014, 02:48 PM   #186
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Having driven the 2015 STI at Mosport I was fascinated by the quality/durability of the OEM Brembos.

Are you able to make some sort of comparison between the Brembos and this AP Racing kit?
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Old 07-02-2014, 03:51 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverf0x View Post
Having driven the 2015 STI at Mosport I was fascinated by the quality/durability of the OEM Brembos.

Are you able to make some sort of comparison between the Brembos and this AP Racing kit?
I've also got the AP Racing brake kit for the '15 WRX, and there's no comparison. The stock brembo's look nice, perform better than the stock OEM WRX brakes, but can't hold a candle to the AP Racing in terms of heat shedding ability and fade resistance. Although, if you're not tracking the car, there's no reason to upgrade the brakes. If you want better bite and greater coefficient of friction, get better brake pads. The purpose of racing calipers and rotors is their ability to shed heat and resist fade, which you'll never run into on the street.
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:01 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinsear View Post
The purpose of racing calipers and rotors is their ability to shed heat and resist fade, which you'll never run into on the street.
Unless I am trying to keep up with you! on the steet
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Old 07-03-2014, 10:25 AM   #189
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Unless I am trying to keep up with you! on the steet
I don't know Sinsear personally, but I'm betting that, like me, he barely get's over posted speed limits on the street.
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:27 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by JSC Speed View Post
I don't know Sinsear personally, but I'm betting that, like me, he barely get's over posted speed limits on the street.
HAHA... yea I think most WRX owners stay at the legal limit or around it
#sarcasm
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:30 PM   #191
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Mishimoto Oil Cooler Install and Review

In our First Shakedown post, we commented on the very high seeming oil temperatures we were getting. We were troubled by the 230dF oil temps because the ambient temps were in the low 70dF area and we were barely using the car; keeping it under 5000 rpms and not using much boost. We mentioned this to our friends at Mishimoto and told them we really wanted an oil cooler so our temps wouldn't kill our oil or the turbo and motor when on track.

A few weeks ago, just before our trip out to Road America, Mishimoto came through and got us their .75qt, 19-row, direct fit oil cooler, part number MMOC-WRX-15. Because we got a pre-production kit we did not get any instructions, but even without them it was really easy to figure out how to best install the cooler. The worst part of the MMOC install is that you have to remove the front bumper, but even that’s not bad since its a few screws and plastic push pins. Of course this is a pain if you forget to reinstall the foam bumper support and have to remove the bumper an extra time. But you won't do that because we just told you not to.



The Mishimoto sandwich adapter sits perfectly on top of the OEM oil cooler and allows you to continue to use the Subaru 15208AA170 oil filter without having to modify the hood or anything else. With the plate in place and the factory oil filter back on top we moved on to the cooler itself.

We figured it would be easiest attach the mounting brackets to the MMOC first. Then we filled the cooler with about .75qt of oil (we used the same Red Line 5w-30 oil we had already been running) and then attached the two stainless steel braided 10AN lines to the cooler. With the lines attached we could move the cooler around pretty easily without dumping oil all over the garage.



The brackets that come with the MMOC-WRX-15 are purpose built to fit the Mishi 19-row cooler to the 2015 WRX. That means the holes in the brackets line up perfectly with holes and hardware already in place. No drilling or extra bolts needed. Once we had the OC in place we fished the lines across the front of the car, making sure the bumper wouldn't interfere once replaced. The lines feed across the car to the driver's side and go between the windshield washer reservoir and front bumper support.



We did encounter one spot where the lines were hanging a bit free and looked like they may rub on a factory screw. We remedied this by hanging the top line from line clamp on a bumper beam bolt then zip tying the other line to that one. Mishimoto said this happened to us because we didn't route the lines the same way they did or the way the instructions say to--as we already said, we did not get instructions so you should not have this issue.



Now that the lines are up into the engine compartment we carefully poured more oil into each to reduce the amount of air in the system. All told we added just about 1.1qts more to fill the cooler and the two lines. Finally we attached the lines to the sandwich plate. We were kind of bummed we couldn't get the "M" logo on the AN fittings to line up the right way, but oh, well.



We fired up the #jscredwrx to see if there were any leaks. And, of course there weren't. We never doubted it. After letting it run for a few moments we shut it down and let it sit. Then went back a few minutes later to check the oil level and we were pretty much spot-on on the dipstick. Driving through Philadelphia on that 80dF evening our oil temps peaked at 178dF, where they had been topping out at 200-205dF in the same conditions before the MMOC.

The first real test of the MMOC-WRX-15 was our Ultimate Street Car Association event at Road America. On the day of the track and autocross events the ambient temperature started at 70dF but climbed to nearly 90dF later in the afternoon. In our first on-track session we never saw oil temps above 205dF, a marked improvement from the 230dF we saw the last time the car was on track. As the sun baked Elkhart Lake, WI, and the ambient temp climbed, so did our pace on track. We were pushing the car harder and harder to try and turn the best laps we could. The oil temps never exceeded 218dF. Not a single drop of oil was lost. We were very impressed that none was burned and none was blown through anywhere.

Do you need an oil cooler for a street driven 2015 WRX? Maybe not. But if you live in a hotter climate or sit in traffic a lot, keeping the oil temps between 180 and 220dF will certainly help your FA20DIT live a long and productive life. If you plan to track your new WRX, an oil cooler is a must. No doubt about it.
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:22 PM   #192
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Great write up! Would you guys recommend this for a car that is a daily driver, may see a few track days, but has to drive through all seasons. I have heard oil coolers are not good on a car during winter for obvious reasons

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Old 07-03-2014, 01:38 PM   #193
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Originally Posted by Scoob1318 View Post
Great write up! Would you guys recommend this for a car that is a daily driver, may see a few track days, but has to drive through all seasons. I have heard oil coolers are not good on a car during writer for obvious reasons
We plan to remove our oil cooler in the winter months because, like you said, cold oil is no good. We also will have to remove our AP Racing brakes too so they don't corrode.

As for whether you need one or not; that's a tough call. Depends on your climate and when you are doing the track days (only in the fall? Probably ok). Also depends on what run group you are. A novice wouldn't really need to worry because speeds are usually reduced, but advanced level drivers tend to push harder.

I would advise you to monitor oil temps and have a used oil analysis done to make sure you have maximum protection. If you need more protection in the form of cooler oil, it's an easy install and removal once a year.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:07 PM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoob1318 View Post
Great write up! Would you guys recommend this for a car that is a daily driver, may see a few track days, but has to drive through all seasons. I have heard oil coolers are not good on a car during winter for obvious reasons
I would not recommend it unless your planing on tracking it as much as JSC does. Now if you live in death valley Arizona then by all means, But as a DD I would not worry about it even if the car goes to the track a few times. But its totally up to you! I thought about buying it myself but I live in Colorado and I don't plan on tracking my car at all so it would be pointless for me....
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Old 07-06-2014, 06:53 PM   #195
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Originally Posted by JSC Speed View Post
As for whether you need one or not; that's a tough call. Depends on your climate and when you are doing the track days (only in the fall? Probably ok). Also depends on what run group you are. A novice wouldn't really need to worry because speeds are usually reduced, but advanced level drivers tend to push harder.

I would advise you to monitor oil temps and have a used oil analysis done to make sure you have maximum protection. If you need more protection in the form of cooler oil, it's an easy install and removal once a year.
What do you think would happen first, overheating the oil or having stock rotors glowing?

I did a night track event in September (at Pocono) and know that my stock front rotors were glowing. I have an oil pressure gauge but didn't pay attention to it, it was my first time driving on track and there was so much to pay attention to. We had 30 cars in the novice class, 2 of them were Audi R8's! I was only willing to do the night event as a novice because I was there in July and went for rides.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:32 AM   #196
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What do you think would happen first, overheating the oil or having stock rotors glowing?

I did a night track event in September (at Pocono) and know that my stock front rotors were glowing. I have an oil pressure gauge but didn't pay attention to it, it was my first time driving on track and there was so much to pay attention to. We had 30 cars in the novice class, 2 of them were Audi R8's! I was only willing to do the night event as a novice because I was there in July and went for rides.
Glowing rotors are not hard to do....Iron starts to glow at 900dF and most good brake pads will operate between 200 and 1200df. You usually don't see the rotors glowing during day time at track days because of the daylight. It looks spectacular, but is not indicative of anything other than the brakes were working--and that maybe they were being overused.

Novices tend to be harder on brake components than they need to be (using the brakes longer at lower pressure causing heat to build up more in components, versus threshold braking where you are on the brakes harder for less time, giving the hot bits time to cool off before getting used again).

That said, you are probably just as likely to have an oil temp issue as a brake issue....that is to say, not very likely if your car is properly prepared and maintained.

An oil cooler is a great mod for a car that is going to get tracked frequently or lives in a very hot climate. A daily driven car in the NE, it's really not something I would say is needed.

And you should be looking at your gauges every time you straighten your wheels up...just like checking your mirrors...should be straighten wheels-->mirrors-->gauges-->mirrors again before braking. But, if you had an instructor with you his job was to watch your mirrors and check your gauges or to tell you to check them. Instructors know you are overwhelmed, that's why we are there, to take over some of the processing that you can't handle.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:48 AM   #197
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Glad the brakes are working so well for you JSC, and congrats on the event podiums!

Quote:
Originally Posted by silverf0x View Post
Having driven the 2015 STI at Mosport I was fascinated by the quality/durability of the OEM Brembos.

Are you able to make some sort of comparison between the Brembos and this AP Racing kit?
Why is the Essex/AP Racing BBK better than STI OEM Brembo's?

You ask, "But why wouldn't I just buy a used set of brakes from the last generation of STI and put them on my WRX?" There is a laundry list of reasons. Based on everything we learned during development and testing, our system offers the following advantages over the OEM STI brake system:
  • Roughly 6-7 lbs. unsprung weight reduction from both front corners of the car, for an approximate unsprung weight savings of nearly 15 lbs. from the nose of your car!
  • Incredible array of inexpensive race pad options at prices that are consistently $100 lower per set than the OEM STI pad shape. The pads in our calipers are 20mm thick and large enough to handle typical lapping/race session
  • Mitigation of pad knockback due to 4lb. anti-knockback springs in the calipers
  • Less chance of damaging bleed screws or crossover tubes when changing wheels due to built-in protection
  • Caliper finish that is more resistant to wear and deterioration during heavy track use (no Brownbo's)
  • Stainless steel caliper hardware for a long caliper service life under frequent pad change conditions
  • High temperature, low drag seals that will hold up to track temps better than OEM components= less rebuilding and longer service life
  • No dust boots to burn up and make a big mess
  • Simple pad change with one bolt and no spring clips (rather than tapping out the pins on the OEM Brembo's)
  • Extremely compact package for superior wheel fitment
  • Stainless steel pistons that keep heat out of your brake fluid to resist fluid fade during extended track sessions
  • Lifetime professional caliper rebuilding support by Essex (at a fee)- pull off your calipers, send them to us, we clean, inspect, and rebuild them
  • High airflow, heavy duty, 70 vane AP Racing J Hook brake discs that are over 4 lbs. lighter than the OEM STI units, available at an extremely competitive replacement price ($250 per iron disc).
  • AP Racing J Hook slot design that gives more pad bite/feel, and distributes heat evenly throughout the disc
  • Disc metallurgy specifically designed to handle the temps typically seen on track offers a long service life
  • Highest quality, Spiegler stainless steel brake line with clear sheath that reduces compliance over OEM rubber design.
Econ 101
The list above shows the technical superiority of our Competition BBK vs. an OEM STI brake system, but a quick analysis of the economics of the situation make the choice even clearer. Below are the approximate costs to completely revitalize an OEM STI front brake system, using high quality OEM components:

Powder coat calipers= $100
New Brembo seals & dust boots= $100
New caliper pistons= $200
New brake lines= $85
New discs= $150 (bare bones…plain face, pillar vane…if you want a high-spec disc this number will be higher)
New race pads= $300
Total= $935

That assumes you’re doing all of the labor to disassemble and rebuild everything yourself. Also don’t forget that this will all take time, which is a valuable commodity to many of us with families, other hobbies, etc. At the end of the day you’ll still have a used brake system that may have fatigued calipers (which leads to pad taper), heavy components, expensive replacement pads, etc.

The initial cost of rebuilding tired OEM parts will get you nearly half way towards buying a top-of-the-line, brand new AP Racing competition brake system, with all of the benefits shown above. If you go through 5 sets of front brake pads in one season and save an average of $100 per pad set (which you will with our kit), that’s $1,000 in pad savings alone over two seasons! At that point the cost difference between a used road brake system and a brand new optimized racing system is nearly the same.

Due to their superior quality and storied racing pedigree, AP Racing brakes also retain strong residual value. AP Racing is one of the most sought after brands in the racing world. While many components fetch only a fraction of their retail price on the used market, AP Racing products hold strong resale value. That means you won’t be flushing your investment down the drain when moving to your next track toy.

If you're interested in how you'll save even more money with our BBK, check out this article: Big Brake System Benefits you may not have Considered. The article was originally written for the FT86 market, but all of the points hold true for the WRX as well.

Which would you rather start with...Hmmmm...?

OEM Brembo's after some serious track abuse

AP Racing CP8350 specially designed for Essex


Yah, yah…Now Prove It!

Below are some customer comments on brake kit vs. OEM Brembo's:

"I'd recommend this brake kit to a friend without question, and several have already taken the leap. A serious upgrade from the Brembo's. No paint fade, not screws to break off, no super expensive pads, no damn dust boots (I mean debris), runs cooler with just a 2 inch duct, Super easy to maintain, Super consistent and reliable pedal = WIN, and one of the best performing rotors I've tested. And the most important part, SUPERIOR customer service. It's not some retail store that sells parts, it's the actual racers and engineers you deal with when on the phone." -Balrok (Lancer Evo IX)

Miles ahead of the OEM Brembo setup on an Evo. I can go all weekend without touching the brakes. Just keep a check on pad wear and rotors, and worry about driving better instead of fooling with bleeding and fiddling with brakes." -Jim (Lancer Evo IX)

"I have had a Brembo kit and factory Brembo brakes before, and I believe these AP Racing kits are much higher quality. I feel AP Racing is more enthusiast oriented, which shows in their designs." Chad (BRZ)
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Old 07-30-2014, 04:50 PM   #198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EssexParts View Post
Glad the brakes are working so well for you JSC, and congrats on the event podiums!



Why is the Essex/AP Racing BBK better than STI OEM Brembo's?

You ask, "But why wouldn't I just buy a used set of brakes from the last generation of STI and put them on my WRX?" There is a laundry list of reasons. Based on everything we learned during development and testing, our system offers the following advantages over the OEM STI brake system:
  • Roughly 6-7 lbs. unsprung weight reduction from both front corners of the car, for an approximate unsprung weight savings of nearly 15 lbs. from the nose of your car!
  • Incredible array of inexpensive race pad options at prices that are consistently $100 lower per set than the OEM STI pad shape. The pads in our calipers are 20mm thick and large enough to handle typical lapping/race session
  • Mitigation of pad knockback due to 4lb. anti-knockback springs in the calipers
  • Less chance of damaging bleed screws or crossover tubes when changing wheels due to built-in protection
  • Caliper finish that is more resistant to wear and deterioration during heavy track use (no Brownbo's)
  • Stainless steel caliper hardware for a long caliper service life under frequent pad change conditions
  • High temperature, low drag seals that will hold up to track temps better than OEM components= less rebuilding and longer service life
  • No dust boots to burn up and make a big mess
  • Simple pad change with one bolt and no spring clips (rather than tapping out the pins on the OEM Brembo's)
  • Extremely compact package for superior wheel fitment
  • Stainless steel pistons that keep heat out of your brake fluid to resist fluid fade during extended track sessions
  • Lifetime professional caliper rebuilding support by Essex (at a fee)- pull off your calipers, send them to us, we clean, inspect, and rebuild them
  • High airflow, heavy duty, 70 vane AP Racing J Hook brake discs that are over 4 lbs. lighter than the OEM STI units, available at an extremely competitive replacement price ($250 per iron disc).
  • AP Racing J Hook slot design that gives more pad bite/feel, and distributes heat evenly throughout the disc
  • Disc metallurgy specifically designed to handle the temps typically seen on track offers a long service life
  • Highest quality, Spiegler stainless steel brake line with clear sheath that reduces compliance over OEM rubber design.
Econ 101
The list above shows the technical superiority of our Competition BBK vs. an OEM STI brake system, but a quick analysis of the economics of the situation make the choice even clearer. Below are the approximate costs to completely revitalize an OEM STI front brake system, using high quality OEM components:

Powder coat calipers= $100
New Brembo seals & dust boots= $100
New caliper pistons= $200
New brake lines= $85
New discs= $150 (bare bones…plain face, pillar vane…if you want a high-spec disc this number will be higher)
New race pads= $300
Total= $935

That assumes you’re doing all of the labor to disassemble and rebuild everything yourself. Also don’t forget that this will all take time, which is a valuable commodity to many of us with families, other hobbies, etc. At the end of the day you’ll still have a used brake system that may have fatigued calipers (which leads to pad taper), heavy components, expensive replacement pads, etc.

The initial cost of rebuilding tired OEM parts will get you nearly half way towards buying a top-of-the-line, brand new AP Racing competition brake system, with all of the benefits shown above. If you go through 5 sets of front brake pads in one season and save an average of $100 per pad set (which you will with our kit), that’s $1,000 in pad savings alone over two seasons! At that point the cost difference between a used road brake system and a brand new optimized racing system is nearly the same.

Due to their superior quality and storied racing pedigree, AP Racing brakes also retain strong residual value. AP Racing is one of the most sought after brands in the racing world. While many components fetch only a fraction of their retail price on the used market, AP Racing products hold strong resale value. That means you won’t be flushing your investment down the drain when moving to your next track toy.

If you're interested in how you'll save even more money with our BBK, check out this article: Big Brake System Benefits you may not have Considered. The article was originally written for the FT86 market, but all of the points hold true for the WRX as well.

Which would you rather start with...Hmmmm...?

OEM Brembo's after some serious track abuse

AP Racing CP8350 specially designed for Essex


Yah, yah…Now Prove It!

Below are some customer comments on brake kit vs. OEM Brembo's:

"I'd recommend this brake kit to a friend without question, and several have already taken the leap. A serious upgrade from the Brembo's. No paint fade, not screws to break off, no super expensive pads, no damn dust boots (I mean debris), runs cooler with just a 2 inch duct, Super easy to maintain, Super consistent and reliable pedal = WIN, and one of the best performing rotors I've tested. And the most important part, SUPERIOR customer service. It's not some retail store that sells parts, it's the actual racers and engineers you deal with when on the phone." -Balrok (Lancer Evo IX)

Miles ahead of the OEM Brembo setup on an Evo. I can go all weekend without touching the brakes. Just keep a check on pad wear and rotors, and worry about driving better instead of fooling with bleeding and fiddling with brakes." -Jim (Lancer Evo IX)

"I have had a Brembo kit and factory Brembo brakes before, and I believe these AP Racing kits are much higher quality. I feel AP Racing is more enthusiast oriented, which shows in their designs." Chad (BRZ)

Being super ocd. I need evenness and matching all around. Are there plans to make a set for the rear?
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:16 PM   #199
Sinsear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrlaigle View Post
Being super ocd. I need evenness and matching all around. Are there plans to make a set for the rear?
Did you really need to quote that entire post to state that?
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:20 PM   #200
Jason2015wrx
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lol
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