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Old 05-14-2014, 07:31 PM   #26
CMoranRVA
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I just figured out the stock crossover for the tweeter can be separated from the tweeter/bracket. You'll still need a bracket, but this would allow you to use the same connection and not run a separate wire to the crossover with the door component.
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:38 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMoranRVA View Post
I just figured out the stock crossover for the tweeter can be separated from the tweeter/bracket. You'll still need a bracket, but this would allow you to use the same connection and not run a separate wire to the crossover with the door component.
Slick, so you removed the x-over from the setup, thus allowing you to use the pre-run wires from your JL crossover from the component speakers straight to the stock location. Then just use the same wiring harness as the doors and get a mounting bracket and you are good to go.
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Old 05-14-2014, 07:49 PM   #28
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Turns out putting the amp under the seat is not the greatest idea around. Airbags, electronics, etc... re-thinking again... need a notebook or something to keep all this information straight.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:41 PM   #29
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If you go with an alpine hu you could get the power pack and put it in the glove box.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:42 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by CMoranRVA View Post
If you go with an alpine hu you could get the power pack and put it in the glove box.
This is true, that doesn't require a run from the battery right?

That said, one of the big reasons I was looking at the AVH-4000NEX is Apple Carplay.
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Old 05-14-2014, 08:44 PM   #31
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I need to double check but I think the power pack only connects to the head unit; you don't have to run a separate power, ground or remote. It's all wired in.
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Old 05-15-2014, 12:44 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMoranRVA View Post
If you were putting some cheap coaxials in, no biggie. But if you're putting in good components, you really need to power them. JL makes an amp you could easily fit under the seat.
Quoted for truth. I recently installed Alpine Type R Components and everyone had me so shook, I just ordered a 4 channel amp and called it a day. Get a Rockford Fosgate R400-4D (around $150) and call it a day. They're super tiny, and you will need an amp to properly power your components.

EDIT: Saw you might go with the JL C2-650 and you have Amazon Prime. I was in the same boat a few weeks back, and I wanted to compare those components with my Alpine Type Rs. Ended up here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...ou-prefer.html (post 4 is very informative). Anyway, save $40 by getting the SPR-60C, and you'll have $40 left over to spend on an amp is my vote.

Last edited by jadawgis732; 05-15-2014 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:45 AM   #33
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I cleaned up my original post with my current plan. Decided to go ahead and do the amp, and the JX360 seems like the smart cost effective choice which still sounds great.
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Old 05-15-2014, 05:59 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadawgis732 View Post
Quoted for truth. I recently installed Alpine Type R Components and everyone had me so shook, I just ordered a 4 channel amp and called it a day. Get a Rockford Fosgate R400-4D (around $150) and call it a day. They're super tiny, and you will need an amp to properly power your components.

EDIT: Saw you might go with the JL C2-650 and you have Amazon Prime. I was in the same boat a few weeks back, and I wanted to compare those components with my Alpine Type Rs. Ended up here: http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/aud...ou-prefer.html (post 4 is very informative). Anyway, save $40 by getting the SPR-60C, and you'll have $40 left over to spend on an amp is my vote.
That was a great post to read, like you said... I have always liked Focals as well, but that will drive my price up.

As far as the amp, I was thinking a very small Class AB for better sound quality as opposed to Class D like the RF you suggested.

Right now I am looking at the JL JX360/4 for $249... Focal makes a nice 4 channel but its $400 and a Class D, last one I was checking out was an Alpine MRP-F300 which is $150 and a Class AB. I worry about quality at that point.
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Old 05-15-2014, 06:03 AM   #35
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Consolidated Class AB Amplifier Options:
  • Alpine MRP-F300 $149.99
  • Infinity Reference 475a $149.99
  • JBL GTO-504EZ $199.99
  • JL Audio JX360/4 $249.99
  • JBL GTO-804EZ $299.99
  • JL Audio Slash 300/4v3 $599.99
  • Focal FPS 4160 $1,299.99

Comparison Link for the top 4 options:
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...X3604&g=347050

Last edited by ronaldvalente; 05-15-2014 at 06:06 AM. Reason: comparison link
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:45 AM   #36
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Maybe this is stupid, but I could throw these speakers in and the AVH and not have to run the amp... not sure I keep second guessing the amp install, it shouldn't be too difficult. I guess the decision will be a lot easier when I see the car in person.

Fronts:
Amazon.com : JBL GTO608C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car ElectronicsAmazon.com : JBL GTO608C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System : Component Vehicle Speaker Systems : Car Electronics


Rears:
Amazon.com: JBL GTO638 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair): Car ElectronicsAmazon.com: JBL GTO638 6.5-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair): Car Electronics


Thoughts on the JBL GTO Series Speakers for a stock replacement without a dedicated amp run from the AVH 4000NEX?

Last edited by ronaldvalente; 05-15-2014 at 08:45 AM. Reason: cleanup
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:38 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronaldvalente View Post
I cleaned up my original post with my current plan. Decided to go ahead and do the amp, and the JX360 seems like the smart cost effective choice which still sounds great.
The R400-4D is smaller, fits under the front seat with no problem, more powerful (100Wx4 RMS vs 70Wx4RMS), is class D - so it is very efficient and unlikely to overheat, and is 40% less than the JX360. You sound like you have your mind made up but I think the RF is a better choice.

EDIT: Ah, I see you clarified your stance towards class d below. My bad. Yeah, distortion was my only concern, but I cannot tell that any is occurring, if indeed it is. The Alpines are actually loud enough that the Pioneer 10" sub in the trunk is completely dwarfed when bridged on channels 3 and 4. Thank God for adjustable gains...
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Old 05-15-2014, 08:42 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jadawgis732 View Post
The R400-4D is smaller, fits under the front seat with no problem, more powerful (100Wx4 RMS vs 70Wx4RMS), is class D - so it is very efficient and unlikely to overheat, and is 40% less than the JX360. You sound like you have your mind made up but I think the RF is a better choice.

EDIT: Ah, I see you clarified your stance towards class d below. My bad. Yeah, distortion was my only concern, but I cannot tell that any is occurring, if indeed it is. The Alpines are actually loud enough that the Pioneer 10" sub in the trunk is completely dwarfed when bridged on channels 3 and 4. Thank God for adjustable gains...
reviewing that amp now, man its really quite cheap on Amazon!

Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate R400-4D 400 Watt Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car ElectronicsAmazon.com : Rockford Fosgate R400-4D 400 Watt Full-Range Class-D 4-Channel Amplifier : Vehicle Multi Channel Amplifiers : Car Electronics

More research needed. :-)
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Old 05-15-2014, 09:20 PM   #39
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Also going to take a look at the PPioneer GM-D8604, it is right in my price range.
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Old 05-15-2014, 10:27 PM   #40
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So considering heat concerns I am going to re-think my decision about not looking at Class D amps... seems silly as they are actually getting fairly decent reviews.

HU: Pioneer AVH-4000NEX
Front: JL-Audio C2-650
Rear: JL-Audio C2-650X
Amp: Pioneer GM-D8604 or R400-4D
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Old 05-16-2014, 06:01 AM   #41
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Anyone put subwoofers in the rear doors? Kicker 40CWRT672
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:16 AM   #42
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Ok so I actually have done quite a bit of reading/research... I have decided to go with a class D amp to ensure I have no heat issues.

Below are some well regarded amplifiers for under 300 which are all pretty nice.
The JBL (if I can find it, is most likely the best choice). All are full class D amplifiers.

Pioneer GM-D8604 $220
Rockford Fosgate R400–4D $150
Rockford Fosgate P400X4 $220
JBL MS-A1004 $290

I was toying with the idea in my head to put in woofers only in the rears to circumvent the need in the future for sub's but I am concerned about the low frequency in the door will just sound muddy, rattly, and terrible.

But I refuse to pay 600 or more for a huge 6 channel amp, that is the opposite of where I want this setup to end up. That leaves me with needing a great in-door setup with low-enough bass.

I think the head unit alone will help out, and then the new speakers with an amp will sound an order of magnitude better than the stock setup. If subs in the doors will work, then maybe I will entertain that, but I don't think the JL C2's can be beat in their price range. Combine them with a solid AMP from the list above and I have a pretty solid setup.
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Old 05-16-2014, 11:20 AM   #43
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based on what kind of music you primarily listen to, door speakers alone will most likely not produce a sufficient amount of bass to provide a full range of sound to your liking.
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Old 05-16-2014, 12:38 PM   #44
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based on what kind of music you primarily listen to, door speakers alone will most likely not produce a sufficient amount of bass to provide a full range of sound to your liking.
So I think I have a reasonable option to keep costs in check (again pointless if I go over the $2500 package cost I would have spent on the HK setup).

1. Stick with the JL speakers, don't want to sacrifice speaker quality, esp. if I am investing in an amp. C2-650 Components $250 Fronts, C2-650x $135 Rears.

2. Get a 4 channel amp, either the Pioneer GM-D8604, Rockford Fosgate P400X4, or the JBL MS-A1004. $220, $220, and $280 respectively.

3. Get the Pioneer AVH-4000NEX Head Unit $700

4. Get all the necessary harnesses, SWC, and dash kits etc. $150

5. Get a small slim sub, thinking about the JL Micro Sub or similar. $300

Installation

Run the Fronts off Ch 1 and Ch 2, Run the Rears off the Head Unit, and Run the Sub off Ch3+Ch4 bridged.

Boom. Problem solved. ~$1600 give or take (albeit for a MUCH nicer setup than the stock and the HK option)
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Old 05-16-2014, 01:20 PM   #45
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I would even consider dropping the rears entirely and getting a nicer set of component fronts only. This option imo would sound better than muddying the clarity with a lesser quality underpowered set of rears. Or just get woofers for the rears. I am running Focal K2P components up front with just Focal KF woofers in the rear and You would never be able to tell it was just the front 2 tweeters doing the work.
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Old 05-16-2014, 01:23 PM   #46
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Quote:
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I would even consider dropping the rears entirely and getting a nicer set of component fronts only. This option imo would sound better than muddying the clarity with a lesser quality underpowered set of rears. Or just get woofers for the rears. I am running Focal K2P components up front with just Focal KF woofers in the rear and You would never be able to tell it was just the front 2 tweeters doing the work.
I am absolutely for just putting woofers in the back, JL makes a C5 woofer component but it ends up being more expensive than the C2-650X 2-way's.

I'll take a look at crutchfield and see what they have in the way of 6.5" woofers.

Thanks!
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Old 05-16-2014, 01:28 PM   #47
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Here is an interesting thought;

Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" Paper Cone Subwoofer Speaker in the rears.
50 bucks a pop.

35 to 800 Hz

http://www.parts-express.com/tang-ba...eaker--264-919
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Old 05-17-2014, 12:52 AM   #48
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I successfully mounted JL tweeters with the stock connector and built in crossover. Sounds amazing.
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Old 05-17-2014, 06:31 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMoranRVA View Post
I successfully mounted JL tweeters with the stock connector and built in crossover. Sounds amazing.
That's awesome! Powered off your head unit right?

So if you are using the stock wires and xover what are you doing with the one that shipped with the JL components?
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:37 AM   #50
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Ok, so I wasn't looking at the Alpine Head Unit amp because I thought it needed to be installed only with an Alpine head unit. Wrong! My mind is blown.

So now I can get the amplifier if needed, without all the mess of installing it in the trunk AND still use the stock wiring! This is HUGE!

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KTP4...ower-Pack.html
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