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Old 07-12-2014, 02:42 PM   #26
7ommy7urbo
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Originally Posted by Nokeler View Post
Why the Manley H-beams instead of turbo tuff I-beams?
Mostly cost and power level the engine will most likely making, I considered the turbo tuffs but couldn't justify the $400 price difference for my setup. My machine shop said the block should be good for 450-500whp as it is now with the H-beams, and with my turbo setup on 93 octane I'm pretty sure I won't be near those numbers....
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Old 07-12-2014, 03:58 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7ommy7urbo View Post
Im confused on what you are referring to as far as the alinment tool, there is a dowel pin built
into the gear so as far as I know there is only one way to assemble it...
Search for outfront Motorsports thread or give them a call. It's not as simple as you think and can cause serious issues when it comes time to tune it.
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:03 PM   #28
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Old 07-12-2014, 04:13 PM   #29
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Search for outfront Motorsports thread or give them a call. It's not as simple as you think and can cause serious issues when it comes time to tune it.
I tried contacting them today but wasn't able to get a hold of anyone. I was lucky enough to find a video they posted of it, I had no idea about the centering of the plate until I watched it. I guess I lucked out with the other few gears I've done in the past, because I never had any issue with them afterwards.
Paul, Beastiansti, Justin V... Thank you guys very much for the info!!! I would've hated to get everything back together and run into an issue from that...
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:35 PM   #30
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A little bit of slow progress recently, got a chance to install the clutch and flywheel


Also installed the jdm cast water pump and swapped out the 11mm oil pump for the 10mm, Along with the rest of timing components. I have some more pics to upload so I'll try to get them posted soon...



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Old 07-23-2014, 01:35 AM   #31
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Sti flywheel, ACT clutch, and valve covers installed....


Also painted the valve covers wrinkle red. Definitely isn't the same color as the sti red but, still came out pretty good IMO



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Old 07-29-2014, 10:50 AM   #32
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Awesome build so far man! I love seeing these picture-by-picture. I've got a built block setup with Manley internals but no head work done. I've been looking into GSC valves, springs/retainers and cams. Looking forward to more posts and pics!
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:12 PM   #33
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Awesome build so far man! I love seeing these picture-by-picture. I've got a built block setup with Manley internals but no head work done. I've been looking into GSC valves, springs/retainers and cams. Looking forward to more posts and pics!
Thank you very much, The Manley stuff seems like quality parts.. I saw they just released a new H-tuff rod not too long ago, wish they were available when I was building my bottom end. I cant wait to get it back on the road again, it cant come soon enough lol!!!

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Old 08-02-2014, 11:04 PM   #34
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The cam gears I rebuilt myself are working just fine.

Cleaned, lubed, reassembled, put cam in the back while tightening backing plate did the trick.
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:16 PM   #35
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The cam gears I rebuilt myself are working just fine.

Cleaned, lubed, reassembled, put cam in the back while tightening backing plate did the trick.

Nice, that's good to hear. I actually had an old stock camshaft with some rust and pitting on the lobes laying around, so I cut the front 2-3" off of it and used the nose to center everything while tightening the bolts down. Seemed to work well, so I shouldn't have any issues... Fingers crossed!!!


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Old 08-21-2014, 05:21 PM   #36
7ommy7urbo
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Default The "2Nine5 '07 Sti" Build- Blouch 2.5XT-R

All ready to go back Into the car!!!


I just got my intake manifold/TGV's back from Grimmspeed and everything came out great!

I have to say that I'm kinda disappointed by the fitment of my Blouch turbo on the inlet part of it. There's probably about a half inch of the inlet that points directly at manifold, even with the TGV deletes and 8mm phenolic spacers the coupler is still extremely difficult to get on, not to mention that I had to grind down quite a bit from my manifold and it still doesn't fit properly. Definitely not very impressed with the situation considering the amount of money Blouch charges for a stock location turbo...


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Old 08-21-2014, 05:59 PM   #37
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Mine was a tight fit but not that bad.... I'm running a V8 TGV-less intake tho.

Did you leave the up pipe->turbo bolts loose while you were tring to fit the intake? I kept all my exhaust bolts loose, put the intake on, then TQed all the bolts down
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:16 PM   #38
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Whoops... Fat fingered a response while reading.

Carry on!...
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:46 PM   #39
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Mine was a tight fit but not that bad.... I'm running a V8 TGV-less intake tho.

Did you leave the up pipe->turbo bolts loose while you were tring to fit the intake? I kept all my exhaust bolts loose, put the intake on, then TQed all the bolts down

Yes I loosened the up pipe and turbo bolts to move everything over as much as possible but it didn't make a huge difference, the biggest problem was where the manifold and TGV bolt flanges are, I'm guessing with the one piece v8 manifold it would have been a much better fit...
Do you happen to have any pics of yours looking through the front of the manifold for comparison? I'm curious if a lot of other people have the same problem. I'll post I pic of mine when I get a chance.


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Old 08-21-2014, 07:15 PM   #40
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Are your water hardlines hitting the bell housing?

I had a 20g once upon a time on the same tomei header and had to loosen and grind the bell housing area so the turbo wouldn't hit.

I know you just got the Grimmspeed TGV's back but that was another reason I opted for the composite or IAG TGV's because they don't have any of those flanges cast into the outside for the TGV motors.
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Old 08-21-2014, 07:56 PM   #41
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Are your water hardlines hitting the bell housing?

I had a 20g once upon a time on the same tomei header and had to loosen and grind the bell housing area so the turbo wouldn't hit.

I know you just got the Grimmspeed TGV's back but that was another reason I opted for the composite or IAG TGV's because they don't have any of those flanges cast into the outside for the TGV motors.

No issues with the water lines hitting, just with the 3" inlet coupler, looking through the manifold at the front of the turbo, there's definitely more than enough room for Blouch to have angled the turbo more towards the center of the block, the only thing close to it on that side is one of the breather pipes from the engine, which in my opinion, would have made more sense to have it closer to that... The pipe can be bent, adjusted, etc. as opposed to an intake manifold where there isn't much I can do with that other than grind down a small amount off the side...
I'm gonna get some pics posted just for reference and for a heads up to anyone else that is considering this setup.


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Old 10-19-2014, 05:22 PM   #42
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Decided to replace my brand new cams with some.... Umm brand new cams, just bc I love wasting money I don't have 😒


I contemplated using my upgraded ones, but couldn't justify the risk of having the same issue that other people were having. So, in goes a set of New OEM ones...


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Old 10-19-2014, 05:25 PM   #43
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And of course all of the brand new buckets I purchased previously can't be used with the new set so I'll be looking at buying new ones!! #GreatSuccess


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Old 10-19-2014, 06:05 PM   #44
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Mine were pretty close as far as lash goes between my aftermarket and oem cams. Hope you can shuffle them around and use most of them.
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:14 PM   #45
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Mine were pretty close as far as lash goes between my aftermarket and oem cams. Hope you can shuffle them around and use most of them.

I can only hope so, but having finished checking the L/H cylinder head lash already I can see none of those buckets will work in that head. I'm hoping after doing the right side I can find some that are reusable between the two
Here's the left so far...

You can see they're all off.
Left column is the lash, middle is current bucket, and right is buckets needed.


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Old 10-19-2014, 07:54 PM   #46
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Oh so you had the valves tipped so you could run all 468's for intake buckets and 480's for exhaust... doesn't leave you with much to swap.

Let me know what your list is, I measured mine with a set of cams that I didn't use and had to swap a few when the installed set arrived. So I've got a few new buckets I only used to measure with.

Also my clearances got larger after run in, I don't know why, but my exhaust clearances were set at .010" or a little bigger anticipating they'd tighten up and they are at 0.0125" now... which was ideal of subaru specs for OEM cams.
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Old 09-07-2015, 01:42 PM   #47
7ommy7urbo
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So it's been quite a while since I was able to post anything with the build... My girlfriend and I celebrated the birth of our daughter in January, so all attention has been focused on her!!
So at this point the GSC cams have been replaced with new OEM ones and I was tweaking a couple adjustments on valve lash to get them in spec

Also installed the heat exchanger portion of my oil cooler assembly, and just have to finish running the hoses to the engine once it's installed back into the car.


FYI, If you're running the gReddy oil cooler on your '06-07 you'll need the factory bracket from an '04-05 Wrx/Sti to properly mount the front part of the cooler bracket to your vehicle...
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:00 PM   #48
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Had a couple leaks in the koyo rad so swapped it out for a new mishimoto, this fits better than the koyo. It's a little slimmer so it was easier to install the fans and hose with less modification..

ETS top mount w/ Grimmspeed Y-pipe... Went through quite a bit of test fitting between the I/C, y pipe, and Bov. These definitely took a lot more time than I thought it would to get right. Ended up having to vent the Bov to atmosphere because the return just wouldn't work without some fabrication.
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:04 PM   #49
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And then we finally get to the day I've been looking forward to for over two years of work..... pro-tune on the dyno!!!
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Old 12-13-2015, 10:12 PM   #50
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Awesome, how she feel?
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