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Old 06-29-2014, 06:25 AM   #1
The Cowboy
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Default EJ27 Billet Block Build - Dyno & Track Test Video Pg 5

Hi Everyone,

We will soon be assembling a EJ27 billet block for our time attack car known as the HULK.

Here is the car.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...type=1&theater

And here is the block on the mill last week.

https://www.facebook.com/Autotech.ST...type=1&theater

I'm not sure if I've done the photos right, so I hope these work. Anyway, we are not new to making big power in Subaru's and have plans to try push this baby to 1000hp at the crank. Hoping to improve our World Time Attack ranking from 3rd in Pro-Am 2013 to 1st Pro-Am in 2013.

I'll post more details and photos as we progress.

Interested to hear what people think of the project?

Regards,

Jason...
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Last edited by The Cowboy; 11-24-2014 at 12:41 AM. Reason: New Title
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:41 AM   #2
DisoDisp
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Is that the same as the bullet billet block, or is that your own design?

Looks awesome none the less, full specs please.
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:55 AM   #3
The Cowboy
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Originally Posted by DisoDisp View Post
Is that the same as the bullet billet block, or is that your own design?

Looks awesome none the less, full specs please.
We are adding our own touch to the original bullet design. The big difference is we're actually going to put it in a car and test it. .

We're currently building two billet engines, one for my personal car (the black one below) and one for the Autotech HULK which I also drive .

My car is a street class road registered GDB, so this time in a few months we will see the much fabled "Billet Block" going and testing it's limits both in a street car and the balls out race car which is the HULK.

https://www.facebook.com/Autotech.ST...type=3&theater
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:40 AM   #4
Illicit1
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Will there be billet heads to go with the block as well? Have you addressed the problem of lifting heads at big power?

I'm hoping to make it over to wtac this year and watch you race
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:31 PM   #5
DisoDisp
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14mm studs do a pretty good job keeping everything in place
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Old 06-29-2014, 03:46 PM   #6
Irv Weissmanhowerton
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+1 on wanting to know the plans for heads, and the rest of the specs for parts your planning to use with this shortblock case


Looking very nice so far, best of luck on your future races
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Old 06-30-2014, 03:25 AM   #7
The Cowboy
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14mm studs do a pretty good job keeping everything in place
Yes we have even bigger one end With nice course thread to get a good bite into the alloy.
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Old 06-30-2014, 03:45 AM   #8
The Cowboy
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+1 on wanting to know the plans for heads, and the rest of the specs for parts your planning to use with this shortblock case


Looking very nice so far, best of luck on your future races
OK, some questions I can answer cause I don't know exactly. I will ask Autotech about the head specs, CFM's and stuff like that. But the heads will be basically the same as the CNC ones we currently run on the HULK. They've posed no restriction up to 700 crank HP and they tell me they can flow enough air to make 1000.

The Heads are CNC ported by Bullet.

We are starting with 100mm bore and 83mm stroke. But these blocks can easy be taken to 102mm bore if we want to push the limit.

I'll reveal which manufacturer we use for the rotating assembly as soon I find out for sure from Autotech. It's coming from Fabre and I think it's Manley?

Current turbo is GTX3582R which is obviously well outside it's comfort zone at anything above 750hp. So once things get going we'll inch up the turbo to GTX4088R and see what that does

Exciting times ahead.
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Old 06-30-2014, 03:53 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Illicit1 View Post
Will there be billet heads to go with the block as well? Have you addressed the problem of lifting heads at big power?

I'm hoping to make it over to wtac this year and watch you race
Hi that's great, please come and see us at WTAC, you can't miss the HULK so we're easy to find.

Yes we already can fix head lift on OEM blocks, same way as everybody else does it. But the problem is when you do the 14mm head studs on OEM block you remove more material from the already over stressed and under supported lower case and to compound that error, you then can apply massive head tension and in doing so you can pull the block out of shape.

And we wonder why our sleaves won't stay put and our main bearing lubrication is such a problem.

Anyway, none of that's a problem with the billet block

Regards, JW...
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:04 PM   #10
Razgeiz
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Where do I buy this billet block it sounds sexified.
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Old 07-01-2014, 08:24 PM   #11
The Cowboy
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Originally Posted by Razgeiz View Post
Where do I buy this billet block it sounds sexified.
Autotech Engineering - Sydney Australia.

So you can contact them here;

http://www.autotechengineering.com.au/

Talk to Spiro and tell him you heard it from me please .

Their phone # for Australia is (02) 9897 1378
International Call # is +612 98971378

Regards, Jason.
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Old 07-02-2014, 01:01 AM   #12
uglybetty
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Complete awesomeness
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:46 AM   #13
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whats ballpark price for this bad boy?
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cowboy View Post

Autotech Engineering - Sydney Australia.

So you can contact them here;

http://www.autotechengineering.com.au/

Talk to Spiro and tell him you heard it from me please .

Their phone # for Australia is (02) 9897 1378
International Call # is +612 98971378

Regards, Jason.
Can do! Thank you for the info!
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Old 07-02-2014, 05:35 PM   #15
The Cowboy
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whats ballpark price for this bad boy?
HI Paul,

Look, obviously it is not cheap, but when you see the price you need to also consider the inclusions.

The block comes finished, torque honed to your pistons and decked ready to assemble. It also includes a complete main case and head stud kit, which would ordinarily add around $1000 to your build anyway.

So price for that is going to be starting at $9000 USD.

We supply the stud kits because they are unique items, specific for this application and of the highest possible standard to ensure the block is held together such that you can access the added block strength and stability that we strive to achieve with the billet block design.

Generally we will prefer to sell assembled short or long motors, but if you choose just the block, we want to ensure you use our fasteners as they are essential to the design and we don't want people having failures resulting from using crap fasteners.

Short motors, balanced, blue printed and assembled to full HULK spec, are around $15,300 USD on todays exchange rate.

Regards,

Jason..
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:11 PM   #16
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holy ****^^^
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
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Are the sleeves able to be replaced? I'm guessing pinned mains and 4 bolts per main journal? and more of an evenly distributed oiling pathway?
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:52 PM   #18
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I knew this was only one of my day dreams, $9000 !!!
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Old 07-02-2014, 07:35 PM   #19
The Cowboy
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Are the sleeves able to be replaced? I'm guessing pinned mains and 4 bolts per main journal? and more of an evenly distributed oiling pathway?
Yes pinned, yes double main bolts and larger torque capacity on bolts, also oil squirters, full width main journal webs, yes replaceable sleaves and because block is pure high quality billet, it can also be repaired if you damage it.

Lots of work done increasing and balancing main bearing oil supply and capacity.

Sleaves are inserted with min 2.5" crush but can be shrunk out and replaced. Sleaves are in full parent alloy so no chance of the blocks bore support area separating when you extract the sleave.

We're trying to develop a solution that can easily hold the power with significantly increased reliability and also be serviceable to give customers a good life across multiple re-builds.

In response to peoples comments about high price I say this.

I'm not sure what's going on in the states but here in Australia, a fully prepped Subaru block; sleaved, closed decked, 14mm head stud mod, tunnelled, pinned, torque honed and prepped ready for assembly, including $800 AUD ARP main case bolts and $700 for head studs, will run you near $6000 AUD and you need to supply a block. So what we offer here for $9500 AUD ($9000 USD) is pretty dam good value.

No matter what you do to the OEM block, we all know it's still a time bomb.

Regards,

Jason..

Last edited by The Cowboy; 07-02-2014 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:22 AM   #20
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Hi Jason,
I'm a noob when it comes to engines so I hope ive worded this right but have u guys considered raising the deck height to run longer rods with the added stroke to keep the rod ratio decent for hi rpm power?
Thanks,
Martin.
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:52 AM   #21
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Most people have no idea what stuff costs to make and they expect everything to be within their budget. $9K is reasonable.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:12 AM   #22
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Does it include pistons and rods and crank?
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:11 PM   #23
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it includes your mom spoolin
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:27 PM   #24
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it includes your mom spoolin
Deal breaker.....
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:48 PM   #25
Jubathoph
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Is billet material any stronger than cast, similar to forged vs cast? Or is it just machined more precisely?

Clearly the block itself is stronger because of the closed deck design and added material.
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