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Old 07-05-2014, 06:00 AM   #51
The Cowboy
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Hi Jason,
I'm a noob when it comes to engines so I hope ive worded this right but have u guys considered raising the deck height to run longer rods with the added stroke to keep the rod ratio decent for hi rpm power?
Thanks,
Martin.
Hi Martin,

We are looking into this and yes it can be done quite easy so far as the block and sleave is concerned. The only real obstacle that is immediately apparent, is how to manage the extra length of cam belt required to accommodate a 4mm extension, it's going to require a belt at least 8mm longer and with all complication in the belt run, it's a bit tricky to calculate exactly the full effect of this on cam belt drive and adjustment.

If Spiro embraces the idea, we might dummy one up and see how else we can get some slack in the belt We might move some pullies maybe or reduce size or other magic maybe? We'll see what the brains trust comes up with on this one later.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:58 AM   #52
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use adjustable idler pulleys? crawford makes them i think? has a off set hole that allows you to lengthen or shorten the belts path. not sure if you will get the 8mm you need but you will get some room.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:18 PM   #53
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Yes but it would require a different sleave and then just a matter of boring the block to suit it.

I can't see a major problem with it, but it would be a one off so more expensive and I'm not certain what the advantage is?

I expected more people will be asking if the can have the 102mm piston
I've owned both big bore and small ej's and I prefer the way small bores make power and rev out. Most call me crazy but I just do. To me it feels like a big bore motor is forced to make power where the small bore wants to make power, if that makes sense.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cowboy View Post
Hi Martin,

We are looking into this and yes it can be done quite easy so far as the block and sleave is concerned. The only real obstacle that is immediately apparent, is how to manage the extra length of cam belt required to accommodate a 4mm extension, it's going to require a belt at least 8mm longer and with all complication in the belt run, it's a bit tricky to calculate exactly the full effect of this on cam belt drive and adjustment.

If Spiro embraces the idea, we might dummy one up and see how else we can get some slack in the belt We might move some pullies maybe or reduce size or other magic maybe? We'll see what the brains trust comes up with on this one later.
I'm sure spiro will work out a way around the issue if he thinks the end results will be worth it.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:23 PM   #54
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use adjustable idler pulleys? crawford makes them i think? has a off set hole that allows you to lengthen or shorten the belts path. not sure if you will get the 8mm you need but you will get some room.
Yes we already considering these as a part of the magic . Well need to engineer the big gains but I think the off-set adjustable pullies will be good for the final adjustment.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:38 PM   #55
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use adjustable idler pulleys? crawford makes them i think? has a off set hole that allows you to lengthen or shorten the belts path. not sure if you will get the 8mm you need but you will get some room.
I like these from LIC Motorsports

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Old 07-06-2014, 01:07 PM   #56
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Wow that is nice man!
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Old 07-16-2014, 05:28 AM   #57
The Cowboy
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Default Progress Photos and Some of the CNC Renderings

Here are the original CNC Renderings.










Current Rendering with final adjustments on this much needed product.



And here is one block half getting there with sleave installed earlier this week.









We hope to be assembling and test fitting the first block inside 2 weeks.

Bring it on

Last edited by The Cowboy; 07-16-2014 at 06:54 AM.
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Old 07-16-2014, 04:20 PM   #58
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very neat... sub'd
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:18 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0STI6 View Post
I've owned both big bore and small ej's and I prefer the way small bores make power and rev out. Most call me crazy but I just do. To me it feels like a big bore motor is forced to make power where the small bore wants to make power, if that makes sense.
I have to agree with this 500whp on my 207 feels so much spunkier than larger bore setups I assume it's the combo of the longer stroke and heavier piston weight


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Old 07-16-2014, 10:19 PM   #60
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Any estimates on machine time required to cut this?
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:37 AM   #61
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Wow lots of progress you guys aren't messing around!
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:55 AM   #62
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Wow lots of progress you guys aren't messing around!
If you like last nights progress then you're going to love this









Dam pistons are late so can't finish torque plate hone this week. That looks like Monday now. Then dummy assemble to clearance crank and then strip, measure, balance, blue print and final assembly.

This $hit is getting real..
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:24 PM   #63
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This is awesome. Cant wait to see it in action. What kind of boost levels is this designed to handle?

Also the mains tend to warp over time with the OEM block. I'm guessing this will be much more resistant and not require line bore with every rebuild?
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Old 07-17-2014, 12:34 PM   #64
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What other improvements to the design have yall made to the block? The raised deck height would be great for a better rod ratio.

What made you guys want to do this in the first place vs the stock block. Obviously the strength, but there had to be some pushing deciding factor to actually do it. Lastly, are you going to get an exact weight difference compared to a stock cast block? Excited to see where this goes.
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Old 07-17-2014, 02:31 PM   #65
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This block makes me wonder why I even bother building my ej25 block... Imagine if you could make this so cost efficient, which i understand is probably impossible, that in a few years everyone was running these!?! Id like to know estimated boost capabilities as well.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:34 PM   #66
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Sure... I'll be the guy to ask the dumb questions:

-Applicability to a car that sees street duty?
-Surface finishes available to reduce the possiblity of corrosion?

Peace
-TurboTod
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:19 PM   #67
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Sure... I'll be the guy to ask the dumb questions:

-Applicability to a car that sees street duty?
-Surface finishes available to reduce the possiblity of corrosion?

Peace
-TurboTod
Hi TurboTod,

The only modification you will need to make to your street car is to install external electric water pump, and the relevant hosing mods to plumb it up. We are making blocks such that they can run the STD OEM oil pump and sump.

One of our demo cars is a street car, so it will be proven in both street car and race car spec before we go retail.

As for coatings we can make it any colour you like with various levels of finish protection thanks to our friends at Hi-Octane Performance Coatings That service will be extra charge of course but easily do-able.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:28 PM   #68
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This block makes me wonder why I even bother building my ej25 block... Imagine if you could make this so cost efficient, which i understand is probably impossible, that in a few years everyone was running these!?! Id like to know estimated boost capabilities as well.
We're targeting 50psi. All components individually are capable of 60psi. But really, it's more the power rating that you need to look at. Our rotating assembly for instance is rated at 1000hp. I expect on power trials we will exceed that and also, I expect there will be brave customers testing the block at 60psi, plus gas, plus fancy fuels and really push the limits for drag racing and dyno shoot-out's ect.

But what most customers really want, is the ability to make 800-900hp at the fly with a substantially increased reliability factor that just can't be obtained from the OEM block, no matter what band-aids you put on it.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:34 PM   #69
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This is awesome. Cant wait to see it in action. What kind of boost levels is this designed to handle?

Also the mains tend to warp over time with the OEM block. I'm guessing this will be much more resistant and not require line bore with every rebuild?
Main journal stability in the billet block is many times stronger and more stable than OEM blocks can ever be, just consider; full span main cradles, pinned, 50% more fastening capacity on top of the inherent strength gained from going billet material over cast.

Target 50psi. Components are individually chosen that are capable of 60psi but we'd like to see some conservatism in our projections, so I think 45-50psi will work well for most people.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:39 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Jubathoph View Post
This is awesome. Cant wait to see it in action. What kind of boost levels is this designed to handle?

Also the mains tend to warp over time with the OEM block. I'm guessing this will be much more resistant and not require line bore with every rebuild?

yes yes, look here, your mains won't be going anywhere.



That's what I mean by full span main cradles. It's also pinned and more main case bolts. Have a look at how the OEM main cradles swing in the breeze and then you'll understand why there is movement and nasty irregular wear on your main bearings.

That won't be happening here.
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:32 AM   #71
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How did you manage to get the coolant around the bores.

Did weld a plate in the side, after machining the chambers around the bores, and re-machine it,
otherwise you can't get alot of coolant around the bores.
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Old 07-20-2014, 01:34 PM   #72
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what are you doing for heads?...hope you have some billet ones
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:38 PM   #73
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what are you doing for heads?...hope you have some billet ones
Now that would be really interesting to see. Good bye dog leg?
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Old 07-21-2014, 12:04 AM   #74
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Nice work! Do you know the weight penalty with the billet block? What will you use as a rev limit with that 83mm crank?

With respect to cost, I think a fully built version with dry sump will come in under $25K complete. This is a good price for a lightweight race engine with 1000 hp capability. Can anybody think of a cheaper package at this ballpark weight and hp?
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Old 07-21-2014, 04:11 AM   #75
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How did you manage to get the coolant around the bores.

Did weld a plate in the side, after machining the chambers around the bores, and re-machine it,
otherwise you can't get alot of coolant around the bores.
Can't give it all away but yes we have water around the sleaves ..
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