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Old 07-19-2014, 10:16 AM   #1
Bad Noodle
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Default 4 year build - Impeding doom. Probably. I'm no good at this and could use help

Here was my start up procedure:

- Packed oil pump with petroleum jelly
- Filled filter with oil
- Cranked for 30 sec with harness unplugged x5
- Started the car and ran it for 1 minute. Then I noticed some issues

1.) 90 psi oil pressure at idle as read by a prosport oil pressure gauge.
2.) Small oil puddle by jackstand on driver's side
3.) Right VVT angle was slow to respond and hovering around 2 deg while the left was around 10.
4.) Small fuel leak from fuel rails.
5.) No CEL

So my biggest worry right now is the excessive oil pressure... could it be that the jelly takes some time to get out of the oil pump? I was worried to let the engine heat up all the way, but maybe i should? I let it idle for a minute and the pressure did not drop.

For the vvt problem, I'll clean the solenoid again and double check connection.

If you guys think it's okay to let it idle, I can look underneath and find out where the oil leak is coming from. But if you guys have any hints as to what the source could be, I'm all ears.

The fuel rails are V1 perrins where they have plugs that cover the machineing holes. The plugs leak, so I can just order some new oplugs from mcmaster and that should take care of that..

Any other thoughts as to what I should check up on?

Some info:
08 sti block
08 sti heads & cams modded to run single avcs
plastic exhaust avcs cams retarded 2 teeth to make 08 sti exhaust cams match closer to 07 wrx exhaust cams
08 sti oil pump .. 11mm I believe
new crank
manley pistons and rods.




and some pics as she stands:



No IC yet as I wanted to look for leaks from up top.
Connectors are all on, this was taken before startup, after priming

I thought doing this was kind of cool:




I'll take more pics after the problems are fixed. Iphone is doing a great job making them look clear on the screen while they're blurred as hell on here.
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Last edited by Bad Noodle; 07-23-2014 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:22 AM   #2
Delphi
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What oil pump do you have? 10mm or 11mm? And what heads do you have?
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:26 AM   #3
DisoDisp
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1) Fine, cold oil pressure will be high, no worries it'll drop once the oil warms up.

2) Did you miss the oil fill tube when filling?
Check for leaks.

3) AVCS have a ECT and RPM lockout, let the engine warm up before looking at avcs solenoid positions.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:12 PM   #4
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Updated build info

Thanks for the feedback, I'll try running it a bit longer and let everything warm up. Will see what happens.
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Old 07-19-2014, 12:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DisoDisp View Post
1) Fine, cold oil pressure will be high, no worries it'll drop once the oil warms up.

2) Did you miss the oil fill tube when filling?
Check for leaks.

3) AVCS have a ECT and RPM lockout, let the engine warm up before looking at avcs solenoid positions.
This....
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:00 PM   #6
Bad Noodle
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Update:

1.) The oil pressure dropped from 90 to 20 psi as you said it would once the car warmed up. Sweet.

2.) You're probably right about the oil spill prior to start up. Nothing dripped the whole time the car was warming up.

3.) The galley plugs on the perrin fuel rails had o-rings. Replaced the oil ring and no more leak.

4.) As the oil temp went up, the right and left avcs went to 0. They were at 2 and 10 during warm up, but both went to 0 once warmed up.


Besides that, no leaks from the new power steering lines. EGTs are 900 at idle. No CELs. Idle was a bit choppy at first but as the fuel corrections came in line, it steadied out.

I think it's time for an oil change and a test drive and do some preliminary fuel corrections. I'm at -8 at idle, which isn't too bad for a first try on a custom intake. Should get me around the block a couple of times. Wow, pretty excited and nervous about this.
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Old 07-19-2014, 04:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
I thought doing this was kind of cool:


I was planning on doing the same. Thanks for posting the picture!!
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:17 PM   #8
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Mods?
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Old 07-19-2014, 08:29 PM   #9
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You should be running a 10mm pump...
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Old 07-19-2014, 09:57 PM   #10
Bad Noodle
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[quote=Type2;42275194]Mods?[/quohttp://forums.nasioc.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=42275223te]

Nothing too special:
Built 08 Block
Lightly PnP'd heads - smoothed transitions and cleaned up casting
DIY rotated up pipe / down pipe / intake
PE 5857
PE 46mm ewg
Perrin V1 fuel rails
Perrin 800 cc modded injectors
Removed air pump


Interesting stuff:
Cleaned up ebay EL headers (link)
DIY Coated with Techline black satin
Removed Exhaust avcs solenoids and created new oil flow passages (link)
Ground My own Piston rings with a file (link)
Removed all turbo water lines and tapped/plugged the water pump
Removed all unused clips from harness, extended wires, repackaged to fit rotated setup
Cut off the Atmospheric Pressure sensor from air pump (link)
Made aluminum vaccum lines and DIY'ed new silicone T's
Relocated the fuel tank vapor valves to where the EGR valve was
Rerouted the power steering
... maybe some other cool. Will post later with better pics.






Quote:
Originally Posted by Juice66 View Post
You should be running a 10mm pump...
Maybe yes, maybe no. I'm running 08 sti cams. The oil holes on the exhaust were plugged and the solenoids removed. So it's like the 08 sti with the solenoids unplugged or not used Would probably still need the 11mm. If I remember correctly, the heads have extra passages for the oil that non exhaust avcs cams don't have. This might be the reason the 08+ sti have larger pumps. Even if that's not the case, I'm running the same block and heads as the 08 sti (with the exhaust cams locked) so it should require the same oiling.
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:02 PM   #11
Paul
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The bigger pump is for both AVCS. If your not running both you want the 10mm
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Old 07-19-2014, 10:34 PM   #12
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^ I hear what you're saying because I've read that as well. That applies to the idea of running a 11mm pump on a system designed for a 10mm. Im running a 11mm pump on a system designed for a 11mm unit. I'm doing this because I think the head design and extra oil passages warrant the bigger pump, not the actual gears themselves. If this is not correct, I'd like to know why the little resistance the exhaust gears would add to the oiling system would make a difference.


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Old 07-20-2014, 12:42 AM   #13
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You'll be fine with the 11mm
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:27 AM   #14
Bad Noodle
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So one more question. Is it okay to find a sprinkling of very thin metal flakes in the oil when you change it after the first start up?


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Old 07-20-2014, 10:34 AM   #15
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hmm depends. did you use the proper and enough assembly lube when placing the bearings and crankshaft?

you could change the oil and drive about 10 miles or a road where you can do engine rpm cycles low and high.

then drain oil to inspect.

as a precautionary measure i would remove the oil pan and clean all the remaining flakes out and inspect the oil pick up tube. if there is an excess in that filter mesh you could have a damaged bearing.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:35 AM   #16
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also what were your bearing specs needed to work with the crankshaft?
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:21 AM   #17
Bad Noodle
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Thanks for the info. Is there any easy way to drop the oil pan? Or is there anyway to clean it without taking it off the car?

During assembly I used the redline assembly lube and did everything to spec as written in the manual. I checked bearing clearances using plastigauge as well as a bore gauge and mic.

When I bought the block the advertisement said it had a broken Ringland. This is fine but one night the block apart it turned it also threw a rod bearing. So I cleaned everything as best as possible and got a new crankshaft along with new rods. It could be possible that I missed some metal flakes or something like that. I also got a new oil cooler disassembled and cleaned the oil pump and disassemble and clean the abs gears.


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Old 07-20-2014, 12:38 PM   #18
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You can remove oil pan with the engine still in the car. You just have to remove the exhaust manifold.

It's possible to have a minuscule amount of shavings left over since it was a used block and your first start up.

But I would double check everything to make sure you don't clog the pick up.
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Old 07-20-2014, 12:45 PM   #19
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Your not technically supposed to let a new motor sit there idling FYI. Fluctuate the RPMs.
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Old 07-20-2014, 02:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05subysti View Post
You can remove oil pan with the engine still in the car. You just have to remove the exhaust manifold. It's possible to have a minuscule amount of shavings left over since it was a used block and your first start up. But I would double check everything to make sure you don't clog the pick up.
you dont have to remove the header. Unbolt the 2 nuts for the motor mounts and lift motor to get the rear pan bolts. I raised the motor on the header, since mine is the stock cast
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:34 AM   #21
Bad Noodle
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Okay thank you for the advice. I'm going to clean up the oil pan today. Does the RTV silicone need to dry for certain amount of time before you can drive the car?


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Old 07-21-2014, 10:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
Okay thank you for the advice. I'm going to clean up the oil pan today. Does the RTV silicone need to dry for certain amount of time before you can drive the car? Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
By the time youve finished the job, it should be dry. Use Permatex Ultra Grey or something equivalent. No no on ultra black
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
Okay thank you for the advice. I'm going to clean up the oil pan today. Does the RTV silicone need to dry for certain amount of time before you can drive the car?


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I've been told to wait a few minutes after laying the permatex down on the mating servers before torquing the oil pan down etc. "Let it skin over a little bit before hand".
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:47 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
Thanks for the info. Is there any easy way to drop the oil pan? Or is there anyway to clean it without taking it off the car?

During assembly I used the redline assembly lube and did everything to spec as written in the manual. I checked bearing clearances using plastigauge as well as a bore gauge and mic.

When I bought the block the advertisement said it had a broken Ringland. This is fine but one night the block apart it turned it also threw a rod bearing. So I cleaned everything as best as possible and got a new crankshaft along with new rods. It could be possible that I missed some metal flakes or something like that. I also got a new oil cooler disassembled and cleaned the oil pump and disassemble and clean the abs gears.


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You mean the AVCS gears?

I ordered a new oil pump, oil pan (very difficult to clean the STi one with the baffling), cleaned the turbo oil feed with brake parts cleaner, then ran oil through it from top to bottom, deleted the oil cooler entirely because I can't justify spending $300+ for something that isn't that efficient. I'll go aftermarket eventually here...

Do you have the alignment tool to rebuild your own AVCS gears?
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Old 07-21-2014, 10:58 AM   #25
Bad Noodle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
You mean the AVCS gears?

I ordered a new oil pump, oil pan (very difficult to clean the STi one with the baffling), cleaned the turbo oil feed with brake parts cleaner, then ran oil through it from top to bottom, deleted the oil cooler entirely because I can't justify spending $300+ for something that isn't that efficient. I'll go aftermarket eventually here...

Do you have the alignment tool to rebuild your own AVCS gears?

No i did not. I followed the instructions on here. I only did the intake avcs gears and I didn't see anything to align. there was just a pin that snapped in and that's it.

btw, glad I listened to you guys:




There are some metal flakes and mostly RTV. Not sure if I used to0 much or if it came off with the oil pan.

I don't think this motor will last too long. But at least it was fun trying and learning. Next time I'll have to pressure wash the passages somehow rather than just running water and air through them...

Should I take off the pickup and clean it? Can the gasket be resued?
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