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Old 07-21-2014, 11:06 AM   #26
Bad Noodle
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Well, glad I didn't rev it and just let it idle. Not clogged but would have gotten there.

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Old 07-21-2014, 12:30 PM   #27
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Make sure after you clean the pickup that you protect it from rust. One thing i've learned is that almost every dang thing that gets water on it will rust lol.

I used a pressure washer through the oil galleries of the block, and head.

The RTV could have come from many places. I would just pickup a new oil pickup to be safe; the stocker isn't worth the risk anyways, especially since it's been contaminated now. Just my 2 cents :x
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:10 PM   #28
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Disassembling and cleaning avcs gears that are old can bite you in the a$$. You cannot purchase individual parts for the gears either. Ive taken apart and cleaned GR gears without issues but did mine from my 04 and got screwed. The gasket that seals the unit together becomes old and hard. When cracked open, that seal can become useless, causing issues with the gear's motion. Theres a special orientation for the springs inside also
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Old 07-21-2014, 01:18 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Make sure after you clean the pickup that you protect it from rust. One thing i've learned is that almost every dang thing that gets water on it will rust lol. I used a pressure washer through the oil galleries of the block, and head. The RTV could have come from many places. I would just pickup a new oil pickup to be safe; the stocker isn't worth the risk anyways, especially since it's been contaminated now. Just my 2 cents :x
Yes, get rid of the pos and buy a killer b
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Old 07-21-2014, 09:27 PM   #30
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All clean:





Ready for install




Yeah, the killerB stuff would be nice but it costs around 700 for the pickup, baffle, and oil pan. It's good stuff, but out of my budget. And it won't save this build.

Interesting enough though, the paint does come off the stock oil pan. At least it came off on this one. Not sure if that's because I cleaned it with carb choke cleaner, gasoline, and water or it's because I blew it with 90 psi to get the cracks and crevices clean. You can see where the paint come off on the bottom.

Pickup is immaculate. I picked though it with some SS welding wire and cleaned it the same way I did the oil pan.

Guess that's that...now gotta get the car together and go though the break in procedure... and hope for the best.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:08 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post

- Packed fuel pump with petroleum jelly

Lol I'm hoping you meant your Oil Pump!

Here is a thread I started a year or so ago on my built motor that had high Oil Pressure issues. Lots of vendors and knowlegeable people posted great information. Hopefully you can dig some answers out of it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2466900
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:32 AM   #32
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Nice job cleaning all that stuff out and good attitude with the build. Pick up a magnetic drain plug to catch some of the shavings!
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:57 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quiksmith View Post
Lol I'm hoping you meant your Oil Pump!

Here is a thread I started a year or so ago on my built motor that had high Oil Pressure issues. Lots of vendors and knowlegeable people posted great information. Hopefully you can dig some answers out of it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2466900
lol, yeah that would be interesting. It's probably the lack of attention to detail like this that will get me in the end. Thanks for the link, I'll be reading through it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaton522 View Post
Nice job cleaning all that stuff out and good attitude with the build. Pick up a magnetic drain plug to catch some of the shavings!
Pretty good idea. Are most of the shavings that come out of a build ferrous?

EDIT: F-it...it's $15, so I bought one just in case. Can't hurt

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 07-23-2014 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:38 AM   #34
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Quote:

Pretty good idea. Are most of the shavings that come out of a build ferrous?
They will get caught by a magnetic drain plug. I actually just picked one up as well since my car beat up some bearings on the last build. Cheap way to mitigate the risk!

Hopefully none of the metal flakes made it up into the oil cooler etc ... After having a failed build due to dirt contamination, I will always take all of the oil gallery plugs out and clean the block/heads out thoroughly with soapy water and brushes, even if it was a broken ringland.. Might as well while ya have it out, right?
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:30 PM   #35
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update:

Time for a break in:



So I checked fluids, warmed up, checked again, moved a little to make sure I have all gears, then started driving.

It felt a little rough at first. Bigger than normal swings in idle, and a bit choppy response, but once I got out of my complex and started driving normally, it felt great. I have it set to waste gate pressure and it wanted to build boost the whole time, but I tried to stay off it and did a lot of engine braking from high revs..

Oil pressure was around 20 psi at idle going to up 75 ish at 4k rpms and staying steady there. Pretty excited about that.

The only downside right now is the LC-1 wideband. I did a 'fresh air calibration' right before I left and now the sensor keeps throwing errors... I'm getting fed up with this thing and will probably just buy an AEM
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:54 PM   #36
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Beat on it some more. 4th gear pulls to 5.5k and back to 3k via engine braking. This this like 10 times. So the engine is probably broken in by now.

I'm assuming this is normal oil temps at idle after driving a bit:
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:51 AM   #37
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That looks like pretty good oil pressure... 20-25psi makes me comfortable at idle. There may be a +/- from the gauge. Ive heard of a gauge that was off by 15psi after testing with a mechanical gauge!
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:51 AM   #38
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Thats not even 20 psi! Look at that gauge again. Each of the big hash marks is 10 psi with every third one marked as 30 60 90 etc... needle is inbetween first and second large hash mark, so less than 20 psi. Looks to be 16 psi.
Have you verified accuracy with a mechanical gauge? What oil are you using?
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:54 AM   #39
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I like that you are running a 5857. I think it is a very good turbo size for these motors.
good luck on the oil/motor.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Fast4U1DAY View Post
Thats not even 20 psi! Look at that gauge again. Each of the big hash marks is 10 psi with every third one marked as 30 60 90 etc... needle is inbetween first and second large hash mark, so less than 20 psi. Looks to be 16 psi.
Have you verified accuracy with a mechanical gauge? What oil are you using?
Nope, have not verified with mechanical gauge. I'm running 5w30 walmart dyno oil for now. Subaru manual said anything above 14 psi is good and this is looking like it's close.

I'm gonna put some better oil into it now, should I do

10w40 (castrol or valvoline) ?
5w40 (rotella)?
5w30 walmart oil ?

for another 300 miles when I plan to do the next oil change.
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Old 08-01-2014, 08:50 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post

Nope, have not verified with mechanical gauge. I'm running 5w30 walmart dyno oil for now. Subaru manual said anything above 14 psi is good and this is looking like it's close.

I'm gonna put some better oil into it now, should I do

10w40 (castrol or valvoline) ?
5w40 (rotella)?
5w30 walmart oil ?

for another 300 miles when I plan to do the next oil change.
I would first verify your pressure. What are your oil clearances?

I always use Rotella 15w-40 for the first 4 oil changes (initial heat cycle, 100 miles, 500 miles, a thousand miles), then 5w40 synth at 3k miles
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:11 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
Subaru manual said anything above 14 psi is good and this is looking like it's close.
That is the MINIMUM spec. You hit 14psi when you've got 150K miles on the engine/pump, when something bad is going on, or if the engine was purposefully built that way.
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Old 08-01-2014, 01:24 PM   #43
Bad Noodle
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Default 4 year build - Impeding doom. Probably. I'm no good at this and could use help

Thanks for the info. The engine was built to FSM specs in terms of tolerances. However, this is a dual avcs engine I'm running with solid exhaust cams. So I modified the exhaust cam oil flow to work without the exhaust avcs solenoid.

It could be that, could be that walmart oil is thin and crappy, or something bad.

What would you recommend for oil pressure?

Last edited by Bad Noodle; 08-01-2014 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:14 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
Thanks for the info. The engine was built to FSM specs in terms of tolerances. However, this is a dual avcs engine I'm running with solid exhaust cams. So I modified the exhaust cam oil flow to work without the exhaust avcs solenoid.

It could be that, could be that walmart oil is thin and crappy, or something bad.

What would you recommend for oil pressure?
General rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1k RPM.
Ideally you want 20-30 PSI at hot idle and at least 60-70 PSI at redline (if its got stock rev limit. If you are spinning to 8 k then youd want 70-80 psi at redline, etc)
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:02 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Fast4U1DAY View Post
General rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1k RPM.
Ideally you want 20-30 PSI at hot idle and at least 60-70 PSI at redline (if its got stock rev limit. If you are spinning to 8 k then youd want 70-80 psi at redline, etc)
Sounds like a good bit of info there thanks!
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Old 08-04-2014, 01:21 PM   #46
Bad Noodle
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Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try some valvoline 5w-30 today as that walmart oil flows like water. Might make the difference.

I changed the oil after the initial drive and didn't find any more flakes. Just some grayish stiff all mixed in



Probably ring material?


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Old 08-04-2014, 01:59 PM   #47
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Either ring material or cylinder wall. Honestly id run rotella 15w40 for the rest of the break in and then switch to t6 or whatever 5w40 youd like to run
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Old 08-04-2014, 05:37 PM   #48
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Cool. I picked up some 10w-40 today. I didn't want to do 15w-40 because 10w40 is the same hot viscosity and a lighter cold viscosity.

A better brand 5w-30 didn't make a difference. Same 16 psi at idle. I'm getting 60psi at cruising slightly below 3k


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Old 08-05-2014, 07:27 AM   #49
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One more ?

Now that I got 25 miles on the engine, can I let it warm up by idling so I can watch the pressure on a mechanical gauge? Or is that still bad for break in?



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Old 08-05-2014, 08:54 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Noodle View Post
One more ?

Now that I got 25 miles on the engine, can I let it warm up by idling so I can watch the pressure on a mechanical gauge? Or is that still bad for break in?

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Most mechanical gauges are long enough to where you can snake the gauge through the hood/windshield cowl and tape or secure the gauge to the windshield for viewing while driving around

Last edited by 2Fast4U1DAY; 08-05-2014 at 12:06 PM.
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