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Old 07-28-2014, 09:59 AM   #1
musicfreak190
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Default No hill assist after Viper install?

Hey guys.. I am a bit upset right now.. Broke my ass to get the remote start / alarm installed and now my hill assist light is on and won't shut off.

I have a 2013 STi. I taped into the brake sensor to be able to kill the remote start and did a clutch bypass.

Could that have anything to do with it?
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:50 AM   #2
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I would also check that your cruise control still works too. That might also not function well if the car always thinks the clutch pedal is to the floor.

Im pretty sure hill assist engages when you have the car is first and clutch in. Overriding this probably messed it up.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:02 AM   #3
musicfreak190
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I have a trigger from the remote start aux output to bypass only when starting the car so the relays should not be active unless the car is started.

Last edited by musicfreak190; 07-28-2014 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:18 AM   #4
musicfreak190
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So I removed the 2 relays (starting and cruise control) for the clutch bypass.. start the car.. hill assist disabled light turns off (thank god)... This eliminates the brake sensor wire.

I plug the relays back in.. remote start the car.. it starts.. hill assist light is off now.

I wonder what would trigger it to come on..
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musicfreak190 View Post
I have a trigger from the remote start aux output to bypass only when starting the car so the relays should not be active unless the car is started.
Did you check that the relays are working ok? Did you wire the relays correctly? If the remote start works, you should be able to hear (or see) the relays change state if they have LEDs on them. What kind of relay is it?
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Old 07-28-2014, 11:47 AM   #6
musicfreak190
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Basic radio shack normal relay. They must be working because now I can start the car without pressing in the clutch and because the car remote starts. I have it wired to so that the relays turn on only when the starter is active.
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Old 07-28-2014, 01:06 PM   #7
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You can start the car without the clutch not using the remote start? Shouldn't you not be able to do that? Or your saying it is wired so that when the car tries to start it trips the relay?

Can you hear the relay make noise? It may be wired incorrectly. (Wired on the NC instead of NO side). The relay also may not be rated for the power your putting through it. It is possible that the relay fried or something could have shorted.
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:19 PM   #8
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It is a 30 amp 14v relay.. I have a 5 amp fused constant powering the relay along with a (-) starter aux output from the remote start.

That completes the circuit and allows the two wires from the sensor to contact each other hence tricking the car into thinking i am pushing the clutch in..

I did this for both the cruise control and starter sensor.. (megabitch).

I will test the relays with a meter to make sure they are not always on but I would assume not.
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Old 07-28-2014, 03:32 PM   #9
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Could you have wired it backwards? (Constant on into the relay trigger and the aux output to the input?)
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Old 07-28-2014, 10:44 PM   #10
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I used 85 and a 86 for the sensor wires. I then used 87 and 30 for the constant and negative trigger signal.

Does it matter if 85 and 86 or 87 and 30 are backwards?
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:29 AM   #11
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Hill assist light is bsck on after driving a bit. I wonder if it has to do with the relays. I only dis one diode on the negative wire coming from the aux remote start. I wonder if i should of done 1 per negative to each relay and then between 85 and 86.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:30 AM   #12
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It shouldn't matter which way it is wired, but generally I run my trigger on 85, sink on 86. Constant in on 30, sink on 87.

Did you check to see if the relay is functioning as it should?

Edit: Do you have a multimeter?
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:26 AM   #13
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I still haven't checked it.

I do have DMM.

I wonder if it is because I didn't completely diode isolate the relays.

I didn't do a diode from 85 to 86.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:37 AM   #14
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I'm not 100% sure but aren't isolating diodes generally for parallel redundant circuits? Which wouldn't be the case here.
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Old 07-29-2014, 01:11 PM   #15
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Well if that is the case.. I have a Y connection... I have 1 diode inline and then after it splits to two lines going to each relay... Maybe I should do the split first and then do 1 diode for each relay input (-) relay starter. Then I won't do a diode from 85 to 86?

IDK I need to figure this out.. oh and get this.. cruise control works fine lol..
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Old 07-29-2014, 03:22 PM   #16
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What I have:

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Old 07-29-2014, 04:53 PM   #17
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I'm not exactly sure why you are using two relays?

They are wired incorrectly though.

The negative starter output from the DEI brain module should go to 85 or 86. Then the constant should be going to the opposite pole from the negative start. (85 or 86)
The negative starter output from the DEI brain will also need to have a diode in-line because they have been known to backfeed and not isolate their negative and positive starter wires.

30 should go to one wire of the clutch switch, and 87 should go to the other.

There are two switch sensors on the clutch pedal assembly. One is the safety switch and the other is the cruise control cut-off. You don't need to bypass the cruise cutoff to remote start the car.

Also, if you are splitting a line into a "Y" you will need two diodes.

Last edited by thedaddyb; 07-29-2014 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 07-29-2014, 05:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thedaddyb View Post
I'm not exactly sure why you are using two relays?

They are wired incorrectly though.

The negative starter output from the DEI brain module should go to 85 or 86. Then the constant should be going to the opposite pole from the negative start. (85 or 86)
The negative starter output from the DEI brain will also need to have a diode in-line because they have been known to backfeed and not isolate their negative and positive starter wires.

30 should go to one wire of the clutch switch, and 87 should go to the other.

There are two switch sensors on the clutch pedal assembly. One is the safety switch and the other is the cruise control cut-off. You don't need to bypass the cruise cutoff to remote start the car.

Also, if you are splitting a line into a "Y" you will need two diodes.
This is what i was asking when i asked if you had it backwards.. You do. You have constant voltage on your trigger.

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Old 07-29-2014, 07:00 PM   #19
musicfreak190
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Wow I really am an idiot.. Let me check my wiring and eliminate 1 relay..

God bless..
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:11 PM   #20
musicfreak190
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Wired wrong.. how the F was it even working?
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Old 07-29-2014, 07:16 PM   #21
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Also found the sensor I don't need... I feel ashamed.. I love you guys though.. Really hope this gets my hill assist back!
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musicfreak190 View Post
Wired wrong.. how the F was it even working?
The reason it still works is essentially instead of using the power to trip the sensor.. the sensor was just on the trigger (so always tripping itself). The sensor was 100% of the time being bypassed.
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:59 PM   #23
musicfreak190
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WOW.. I think it fixed it... I will update tomorrow. Thank you so much!
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:18 AM   #24
musicfreak190
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Hey guys Hill Assist works fine now! Thank you.

Does anyone know the best way to to tap into the defroster for a 2013.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:36 AM   #25
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For what exactly?
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