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Old 12-02-2002, 10:45 AM   #1
Schleppy
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Default Anyone have a how-to on insulating the doors?

I am seriously thinking about getting a ton of that RAAMaudio stuff and insulating my doors. I was just wondering if anyone here has any experience with that stuff and can point me to a good how-to. I'm mainly worried about how many layers to use on the metal of the door skin, what holes to cover and what holes not to cover, etc...

Any help would be appreciated...

-Sean
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Old 12-02-2002, 06:34 PM   #2
2OHOH2WRX
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Funny you should ask. I just bought a roll of that stuff about two weeks ago, and received it in the mail last Wednesday.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...item=800842471

Here's what I wrote to someone:

That stuff is a dream to work with. I did the work outside, in moderate temperatures, without a heat gun, using a box cutter and some scissors. It doesn't stink like Dynamat does, and works great. It is awesome.

I'll be taking the skins off again tomorrow (got some new speakers), and will take some pics to give you an idea.
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Old 12-02-2002, 09:23 PM   #3
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Have you found that road noise has beem reduced by doing all four doors? Also, how many layers did you do? Any pics would be sweet :-)
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Old 12-02-2002, 09:30 PM   #4
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The road noise is definitely reduced (although now it is easy to hear what's left of it coming from the back of the car - I'll do that section this weekend), speaker response is improved, there's much less rattling, and all four doors shut with a solid thunk intead of the usual b-dank-ttttt

I used different amounts for different areas. The inside of the outer skins got up to three layers (not the entirety, just the middle section), and some of the outside of the inner skin got up to three layers, also judiciously applied. When I post pics, it'll be easy to see. I could've gone overboard (torn everything out and triple-layered the whole door), but I didn't think the amount of work would be justified by what I think to be marginal gains. Oh yeah, _definitely_ do the rears, even if with just a little bit; you'll see why when you take the skins off
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Old 12-02-2002, 10:06 PM   #5
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Awesome man! Thanks so much for your help!
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Old 12-03-2002, 01:31 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by 2OHOH2WRX
- you'll see why when you take the skins off
Just so you know, the door skin is the outside metal door panel. Technicalities... technicalities... =)
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Old 12-03-2002, 01:39 PM   #7
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Default Dynamat-

By the way, I just dynamatted my 4 wrx doors using one door kit. On the inside of the door skin, I used large pieces (one layer) but did not cover the entire panel. I also used one layer where the speaker is placed and some small pieces on the inside of the metal panels.

I, too, now hear noise coming from the floor and rear of the car.
Also, the doors feel more solid when opening and closing.

Note.... I don't recommend layering this stuff up.. I don't think there is any added benefit. If you want to test this stuff, take a lid to any pan from your kitchen and hit it with a spoon.''Ting"...... now put a thumb-sized patch of dynamat anywhere on it and hit it again... ."Thud:.... it doesn't take a lot to do the trick.

Another example- some auto manufacturers (Acura for example) put a small 3"x3" patch of it on each exterior panel to eliminate panel resonance..

Good day!
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Old 12-03-2002, 03:34 PM   #8
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Here's some pics of mine. Nice and tight.

http://162.39.43.1/impreza/SoundDead/

I suggest a layer of dynamat (or favorite look alike product) and then spray adhesive nasty threaded carpet pad stuff to the back of the door panels.
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Old 12-03-2002, 04:30 PM   #9
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Well, on the RAAMAudio web-site they always say to do two layers, and three on floors...
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Old 12-03-2002, 04:30 PM   #10
2OHOH2WRX
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joncas
Here's some pics of mine. Nice and tight.

http://162.39.43.1/impreza/SoundDead/

I suggest a layer of dynamat (or favorite look alike product) and then spray adhesive nasty threaded carpet pad stuff to the back of the door panels.
Nice

I used WalMart mattress foam pad between the skins and the doors instead of the matting that you used.

...and I didn't have time to tear into the doors today, sorry.
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Old 12-03-2002, 04:35 PM   #11
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Don't worry about it man, whenever you get the chance!

No, how thick of a padding should I do between the door panel and the door? Cause that seems like a really good idea too. RAAMmat and carpeting or foam should make a big differenence...

Thanks a lot for all the help so far guys!
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Old 12-03-2002, 11:14 PM   #12
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I was planning on doing this on my car too after all of the recommendations I have heard on it. Besides, I can't stand how much my panels rattle with the stock speakers, I can't imagine what it will be like once I upgrade them. How much material are you guys using? I was planning on getting RAAMmat (hopefully it will be on ebay again for $79). Is one roll (62.5 sq ft) enough for 4 doors and the trunk?
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Old 12-03-2002, 11:29 PM   #13
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I that one roll should be enough for four doors and maybe a little of the trunk, but that's just an estimate.

Lets hear from the guys who've actually done it...
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Old 12-03-2002, 11:30 PM   #14
2OHOH2WRX
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Quote:
Originally posted by WheelsCSM
I was planning on doing this on my car too after all of the recommendations I have heard on it. Besides, I can't stand how much my panels rattle with the stock speakers, I can't imagine what it will be like once I upgrade them. How much material are you guys using? I was planning on getting RAAMmat (hopefully it will be on ebay again for $79). Is one roll (62.5 sq ft) enough for 4 doors and the trunk?
Just email the guy. Might get a better price shipped.

I applied the mat pretty generously to four doors (much too much according to JonnySubaru ), and still have 2/3 to 1/2 of the box left.
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Old 12-04-2002, 12:53 AM   #15
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If anyone is interested in a GB of RAAMmat, let me know, I e-mailed the guy the other day. Still waiting for a response...
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Old 12-04-2002, 01:07 AM   #16
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I'm interested, I just emailed him tonight about buying some
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Old 12-04-2002, 01:58 AM   #17
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So did I, just now, giving him a heads-up.
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Old 12-04-2002, 02:03 AM   #18
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Count me in for a GB! for at least one roll depending on price.
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Old 12-04-2002, 11:36 AM   #19
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So 2OHOH2WRX, since you've bought from him before, do you want to organize the GB? That would be sweet if we could get the price down...
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Old 12-04-2002, 04:36 PM   #20
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Well, no, not really, for several reasons:

1 - the days of member group buys are long gone, and starting one would take vendor status, fees, blah, blah, puke

2 - I have no idea if the seller (Rick) is even receptive to the idea

3 - doing a GB can take time (even if it was allowed), maybe more than some people are willing to wait

4 - I've already got more material than I need, so... there'd be no benefit to doing the legwork on this one

---------------------------

Here are a few pics that I promised. It was cold and crummy out, so here's all that I got:

http://www.eurotechie.com/images/hosted/d1.jpg

http://www.eurotechie.com/images/hosted/d2.jpg

http://www.eurotechie.com/images/hosted/d3.jpg
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Old 12-04-2002, 04:40 PM   #21
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Talking Time for a noob question

To get to the door skin - do you carefully remove the plastic moisture barrier and then just stick it back down when you're done? Annnndd...how do you decide precisely where to place the mat.

Cheers

Rich
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Old 12-04-2002, 04:52 PM   #22
2OHOH2WRX
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Default Re: Time for a noob question

Quote:
Originally posted by digitaltekniq
To get to the door skin - do you carefully remove the plastic moisture barrier and then just stick it back down when you're done? Annnndd...how do you decide precisely where to place the mat.

Cheers

Rich
To get to the sheetmetal:

- remove all things that cover the barrier (ie speaker spacer, tweeter, door handle)
- grab a corner, and with a quick jerk yank barrier away from the door, a segment at a time; the colder it is, the better - around 60F ambient temperature might be ideal (worked well for me); this keeps the black adhesive caulk from being too sticky, and stringy
- keep jerking the barrier off until it's all off the door
- lay it out flat with goo side up

As for placement, well, there might be a scientific way to determine the best spot and amount, but I just bang on the metal to see where the highest frequency vibrations (and the longest lasting as well) are generated, and that's where I tack up the matting. You should get a decent idea of where that was just by looking at the D1 pic that I took.

Also, even though it's not readily visible, I matted the inside of the speaker hole, so as to not interfere with ring/screw/speaker placement.
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Old 12-04-2002, 05:46 PM   #23
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That's pretty much what I figured - thanks for confirming !

Rich
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Old 12-04-2002, 06:01 PM   #24
2OHOH2WRX
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No problem

Here's what happens when a lowly member gets an idea to get a GB going: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=283810

...used to not be that way...
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Old 12-04-2002, 07:08 PM   #25
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2OHOH, why don't you still contact the RAAM guy and then just PM us individualy...

-Sean
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