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Old 12-10-2002, 05:29 PM   #1
Chuck
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Default 2.5RS DOHC Head Gasket Job Parts List

So... I'm ordering all the parts for my head gasket replacement on my '98 RS. This is what I have so far:

Head gaskets
Intake manifold gaskets
timing belt
valve cover gaskets

Now, I just read a thread that mentions that I'll have to remove the cams to remove the heads. If this is the case, what other seals should I order? And does anyone know what tool I'll need to remove the cams?

Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2002, 05:40 PM   #2
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while your in there.

water pump
crank oil seal

are you pulling the motor to do this?, never really looked at a DOHC RS, but I know there isnt much clearance there...

Jay
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Old 12-10-2002, 05:44 PM   #3
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Crank oil seal is already on the list. It's leaking pretty good these days. Why the water pump? Rebuild or replace? Parts associated?

Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2002, 06:15 PM   #4
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the water pumpf runs off the timing belt, your already taking of the timing belt, so you might as well change it, especially if you have high miles, cause if it starts to leak you will half to take everything back appart to change it.

I would get a new one from the dealer, it comes with the gasket.

oh and umm a new thermostat and o-ring (in bottom of the water pump)

gonna reseal the oil pan too?, also a good idea, the backs start to leak at high mileage.

how many miles, what condition are the hoses and belts in?

Jay
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Old 12-10-2002, 06:29 PM   #5
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This engine only has about 70,000 miles on it. The car has about 160,000. I don't want to go crazy replacing things. I have a SOHC engine in my garage waiting for $$$ to put the project in motion. I'm hoping to have that done by July, so I really just want to get this engine reliable until the project goes in.

Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2002, 08:13 PM   #6
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Took both heads off my motor tonight. The tool you need to remove the cams is a 10mm socket It's a rather easy job with the motor out of the car, I took both heads off in about an hour and a half.

the remove the cam, there is a place to put a wrench on the cam, right on the inside of the head. then use a 17mm socket and breaker bar to get the cam pulley bolt off.

Which head is it? on the left one you have to unbolt the Oil dipstick. if you need any help I am on AIM alot, so just IM me... I have to torque patterns for the head bolts and cam bolts as well.

~Brian

Last edited by rhdude; 12-10-2002 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 12-10-2002, 08:30 PM   #7
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Thanks! I'm sure I'll be IMing you about something once my engine comes out.

I guess I'll need to replace the cam oil seals since they'll be coming out.

Is there any need for a torx plus bit like on the SOHC heads?

Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2002, 08:32 PM   #8
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no torx bits needed. the headbolts are a 14mm 12point socket.
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:17 AM   #9
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Dont forget cam seals and that liquid gasket stuff. I did, not fun redoing it all over again.

Courtney
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Old 12-11-2002, 08:40 AM   #10
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What do you need the liquid gasket for? I don't have the book yet, so I want to be prepared for when it arrives. How much? What type?

Thanks!
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Old 12-11-2002, 09:06 AM   #11
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Well the book for the 98 2.5 legacy says liquid gasket for the cam seals, and the front cam retainer or whatever its called, I think. I'll have to go home and look in my book, it's been a while since I did this. I never got the shop manual for my car cause I'm cheap but from what I understand the legacy and RS both used the same engine for 98 so the haynes legacy book should work for engine matters. Also I didnt have a cherry picker or engine stand, so I just undid the cross member, motor and tranny mounts and dropped the engine and tranny down till I could get to everything. I have pictures somewhere. I'll see if I can get em scanned and put em up by this weekend. Good luck

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Old 12-11-2002, 01:37 PM   #12
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liquid stuff you're talking about is commonly referred to as 3-bond.

you should be able to find that anywhere...

Jamie
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Old 12-11-2002, 01:43 PM   #13
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how much do you think a head gasket replacement would cost if you had to have it done somewhere, parts and labor included. estimated of course...
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Old 12-11-2002, 02:10 PM   #14
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Last time mine was done, I seem to remember $1200.
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Old 12-11-2002, 03:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by 9
...from what I understand the legacy and RS both used the same engine for 98 so the haynes legacy book should work for engine matters. Also I didnt have a cherry picker or engine stand, so I just undid the cross member, motor and tranny mounts and dropped the engine and tranny down till I could get to everything.... Courtney
Ok...,To get to the heads we can either lift the engine from the car or lower it by dropping the crossmember. The Haynes manual use a floor jack/wood block under the oil pan to raise the engine JUST ENOUGH to work, keep in mind the tranny is still connected.

For those that have done head gaskets; If one has access to the engine from above and below do you think there is enough room (after removing all the interference) to work the engine in place, specifically is there enough clearance between the bearing caps and frame rails to remove the valve covers.

With everything involved would you even recommend working the engine inplace?
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Old 12-11-2002, 07:54 PM   #16
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I dunno... I'm a big fan of having something out and in front of me. I hate being hunched over trying to create torque on a bolt. I also hate slipping off a bolt and catching my knuckles on random other car parts. I say take it out and save your back and knuckles.
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Old 12-12-2002, 01:01 PM   #17
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I second the take it out part, but I didnt have the tools and had never really taken an entire engine out before and was a little scared. but if i had to do it allover again I would deffinately take it out. As for just removing everything and then leaving the engine and working on it, The frame blocks some of the head bolts from coming out all the way. plus you only have like maybe two inches to work on the heads.

Courtney
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Old 12-12-2002, 01:03 PM   #18
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opps, double post

Last edited by 9; 12-13-2002 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:36 PM   #19
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removing the engine is a very basic, simple process. Remove radiator and fans, remove intake, unbolt tranny(2bolts, 2stud/nut), unbolt exhaust, 3 electrical connectors, 2 motor mount bolts, unbolt power steering pump, unplug alternator and unbolt A/C compressor. It's that easy note: if its a 4EAT, unbolt the torque converter(4bolts)
I've gotten the engine removal procedure down to about 3 1/2-4hrs with the car on jackstands. I've even removed the motor by myself. Putting it back in is harder than taking it out (obviously)
IMHO, pull the motor on a DOHC to change the head gaskets... on a SOHC there should be no need to.

A subaru tech told me to fill some valve part with oil before I install the cams, but I don't know what he's talking about, and niether did another tech I asked.. anyone know what he meant?


Jamie- nice smilie...

~Brian


P.S. anyone know where to get the service manuals for cheap? subaruparts.com said I had to order a set, which cost like $800 but the WRX manuals are like $279.....
P.Ss. courtney- I have a forester motor in my car The legacy, forester, and impreza RS all shared the same motor. the only diff is the engine code, EJ25D or EJ25A... and the forester 4EAT came with a oil cooler, which I took off and sold.
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Old 12-12-2002, 03:46 PM   #20
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I ordered a manual from Subie Gal... when I get it, I'll let you know if it has everything we need. It's supposed to be a pretty big book and it was only Fifty something dollars.
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Old 12-12-2002, 06:10 PM   #21
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Brian, I have the factory manuals for the 2000. Yes they're different (00 vs 98), but I'm sure somethings are the same. You need any thing drop me a messge and I'll see about scanning it, and getting it to you.

Bob
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Old 12-12-2002, 06:36 PM   #22
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Bob, I'm mainly looking for the engine manual
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Old 12-12-2002, 06:58 PM   #23
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Hey guys, thanks for the honest responses re the engine removal. I taking notes and mentally preparing myself for when my turn comes up.

No problems yet, but......
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Old 12-13-2002, 08:44 AM   #24
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Brian, I have the full set. Covers everything.

Bob
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Old 12-13-2002, 09:18 AM   #25
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Brian- yeah forgot about the foresters. They acutally have the same dash and all as our cars, kinda weird when you sit in one for the first time.
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