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Old 12-21-2002, 05:24 PM   #1
Redneck Ricer
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Default Now the car is not starting!!!

OK, so I replaced the plugs and wires this morning, started the car, it was bogging and rough idel, then came on here, people said replace the fuel filter and the pcv valve.

I got them, replaced them, not the engine will not start! I turned the key to on a couple times to prime the new filter, and it did not work, car cranks, does not start!

now what Could it be? any ideas? how do I get fuel into the fuel filter so the car will start?

thanks
P-rex
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Old 12-21-2002, 06:15 PM   #2
EvasionOfTruth
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you could check to make sure fuel is getting the filter by unplugging the hose and turning the car on(not cranking it). Just becareful because fuel should shoot out. I normally cut mine to the on postion a few times before trying to actually start it.

Buster

Also make sure you hooked the hoses back up correctly to the filter. I doubt you did that wrong but figured I'd throw that in there to be safe.
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Old 12-21-2002, 06:24 PM   #3
YaZahX
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a car only needs 2 key thinks to start
air/fuel and spark,
so you should do what the guy above said and test to make sure u are getting fuel pressure (if no fuel comes out of the hose u need a fuel pump, rather unlikely to be that)

u also need spark, what u can do as an easy way to check would be to take off one of the plug wires and put a screw driver in the end (dont jam it in or u will ruin the spark plug boot) but u can have the screw driver (attached to the boot) rest over the engine(preferably a good ground) and crank to see if u get spark, if u do then u should check injectors,(noid(sp) lights) if you dont get spark check others, u may need a new coil pack or ignition relay/fuel or somthing along those lines.....

if u have more info it would help
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:00 PM   #4
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what mroe info can I give to help?

here is the time line.

engine was feeling limp, idling rough and fluctuating, and bogging down at 4000 RPMs

opened hood, unhooked battery, replaced plugs and wires. gaped plugs correctly (to factory advised specs). rehooked batter, started car, went for drive. still idling rough, still bogging.

opened hood back up (les it sit for three hours to cool first). unhooked battery, replaced fuel filter, and pcv valve. Hooked everything up again. checked all hoses on intake , made sure everythign was snug, and tightened any loosening bolts.

went to start, cranked, nothing

put in the on position, let it sit, turned off, then on, then off, then on....let it sit in on before starting, cranks, and still nothing.

How can I tell if the MAF is blown? other thanthat, what else can be done, or what else can I check to get the car running tonight of tomorrow morning?

thanks again

p-rex
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:21 PM   #5
jdk
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Arrow

There are 2 "on" positions, when you hear the fuel pump kick on thats the one...turn the pump on like 4,5 x's ...make sure the filter is not in backwards...also...sounds like a bad map/maf signal.
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:26 PM   #6
Redneck Ricer
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yeah, I get it into the correct position, and i can hear the pump turn on....guess it is looking more and more like the maf sensor...just hope it is one under the recall so I do not have to spring for a new one!
It is just odd since it was running before and now not even starting

anyone think it may be since I had the battery disconnected while installing the fuel filter kinda like resetting the ECU, but cannot reset it since it is a new filter...just a thought

thanks again

p-rex
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:37 PM   #7
EvasionOfTruth
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resetting the ecu when replacing the fuel filter shouldn't bother it at all. Even if the Maf is blown you should still be able to start the car, although it will be like before and be in limp mode. You are positive you have the fuel filter in correctly?

If you do the check I said before have some kind of cup or bucket to catch the gasoline.

Buster

Mulder he has a 99 RS, this is the normally aspirated forum so of course it isnt a Wrx.

See other thread here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=291419 he states the car there

Last edited by EvasionOfTruth; 12-21-2002 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 12-21-2002, 07:46 PM   #8
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yeah, I will try that in the AM, this seems to be the best bet.

thanks

p-rex
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Old 12-22-2002, 12:40 PM   #9
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Hate to say it, man, but my car did the exact same thing, and I had a blown MAF, and a blown ECU (which was blowing brand new MAFs). Mine was related to aftermarket boost though, and a wire harness problem. I initially thought it was an ignition problem.
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Old 12-22-2002, 01:39 PM   #10
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OK, got it started, all set.

I was a complete moron, and when I took of the ignition coil to install the pcv valve, forgot to plug it back in. WoW, I am dumb..

so it has started, adn is running, but still uidling rough and bogging down...looks like the MAF sensor for sue=re...

Hopefully it is covered under the recall!

thanks again for all the help.

p-rex
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Old 12-22-2002, 06:14 PM   #11
EvasionOfTruth
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Another thing you could do is disconnect the plug going into the maf. See if the car acts the same, if it does then you can be positive it is blown.

Buster
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Old 12-23-2002, 01:17 PM   #12
Redneck Ricer
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well, just had one of the most pleasant esxperiences at a dealer!

caleld them up, told them I had a blown MAF, and it was covered under the warranty. Asked if I could get it fixed in the AM. They were busy all day, so they let me bring in just the part, swap parts, and bring it home and install myself! wow, what a great way to go....

runs great now, better then before with the new filters, pcv valve, magnacor wires and NGK plugs. woohoo!

thanks again for all the help guys! Now I gotta jump forums cause I am having problems with my WRX now

p-rex
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Old 12-23-2002, 03:50 PM   #13
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no problem man... glad we could help
whats up with your WRX?
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Old 12-23-2002, 04:05 PM   #14
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lax accelleration basically.
Think it has been traced to the AEM CAI, and the fact it is 10 degrees out and too much cold air getting in, too cold altogether, so the turbo is not boosting as much.

From what I have been told (and correct me if I am wrong), but either extreme heat of cold will have adverse effects on the turbo. not damaging, just underperfoming. 60 degrees and dry is the ideal temp. any altitude or humidity also hurts. And being damp, wet, cold, and miserable here does not help!

p-rex
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