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Old 02-23-2004, 05:50 AM   #251
ellisnc
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Did someone say track day

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Antenna and the feeder and all one piece... you have to get the feeder out from everything before you pull it out the antenna hole from the top. Pretty easy... just need to find a way to cover that hole now. Think I can cut down a piece of plastic to fit inside the grommet.

The side impact sensors are right above the front belt reels in the B-pillar. You'll need a safety button torx bit to remove them and they're thread locking bolts so they're pretty tough. If you get ambitious that whole floor harness can come out as it's seperate from the rest of everything else back there. Of course you have to remove the SRS ECU as well.

Power door lock actuators are pretty easy. There are two small screws that hold them to the actual latch mechanism and one screw that you can get to from the outside that holds it to the door. Depends on how good you are but on a couple of them I just used a little shorty plus driver to get the small screws and then unplug it and it just falls out. They're modular so they just come right out. I also removed the door handle support brackets that were in there as I really couldn't see a use for them other than someone pulling really hard on a door handle when the door is locked so they don't rip the door handle out. Maybe there's some anti-theft reason for them... not sure. I also removed the rod that actuates the latch from inside the rear doors as I don't plan on needing to open them from the rear inside, just unlock them.

Also, If you removed the outer shoulder belt anchor from the rear, there is a bracket that's probably a little over a pound under that garnish that contains the height adjustment slider.

Obviously I pulled out the keyless unit now as well since I won't be able to use it. I'll have to see if the security unit still works with it unplugged. Should.

There are also front impact sensors mounted just behind the front bumper beam on the frame rails. Those are coming out when I remove the fascia. Also the JDM beam is going to get cut down to just support the fascia.
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:17 PM   #252
yebokmj
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Brilliant Red

Default Antena Delete

ellisnc,
There already is something that covers the antena hole nice and cleanly. Look HERE

Joshua
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:21 PM   #253
aspera
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too heavy maybe carbon fiber??
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:28 PM   #254
aspera
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Thanks for the write up. I guess there are a bunch of ways to choose how you want your doors done. Your rear doors can now only be manually unlocked from the inside...but can only be opened from the outside?? It sounds weird, but I guess it is the best way.
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Old 02-25-2004, 06:38 AM   #255
ellisnc
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Did someone say track day

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Quote:
Originally posted by aspera
Thanks for the write up. I guess there are a bunch of ways to choose how you want your doors done. Your rear doors can now only be manually unlocked from the inside...but can only be opened from the outside?? It sounds weird, but I guess it is the best way.
Basically yes... I'm not exactly going to be reaching in there to open them from inside. I could have left the power locks in but that'd be no fun
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Old 09-16-2004, 07:51 PM   #256
El Supremo
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and finally....DRIVE NAKED!!
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Old 09-18-2004, 03:41 PM   #257
aspera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Supremo
and finally....DRIVE NAKED!!
There's always some guy who says "go on a diet" or "drive naked". I'd rather hear something more creative like "cut off your penis" or something. Now THAT would be the ultimate hardcore weight reduction mod. All the top drag racers would be transsexuals then, right?

Since I'm here, I might as well add something. I found a little easier method of using dry ice to remove sound deadening tar.

1. Buy dry ice. I got mine at the grocery store for $.99/lb. It was about $8 per block.
2. Buy 1 1/2" chisel. I got one that's thicker than a scraper, but wider than a flat blade screwdriver.
3. Plop chunk of dry ice on tar. Use a screwdriver or something to pin the block of ice down while you scrape with the chisel. This creates a CO2 snow. This snow has greater surface area and freezes the tar quicker.
4. Listen for the snap, crackle and pop. The rapid cooling from lots of CO2 snow makes BIG chips of tar easy to pop off with the chisel. Big chips are good.
5. Clean of the leftovers with a spray can of "Oops!" tar remover.

CO2 snow=big tar flakes=good

Anybody ever use a CO2 fire extinguisher? That might work for vertical surfaces, dunno?
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Old 09-18-2004, 04:04 PM   #258
aspera
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So far the most awesome weight reduction I've seen on a Subaru was Robby Unser's ride for Pike's Peak. Both rear doors were fiberglass or carbon. That includes the windows. From the outside it just looked like the rear windows were tinted REALY dark. That's because the window area was painted black.

I also saw all three Group5 Dodges. The newest one had no trunk or hood hinges, just pins. That allowed the rear parcel shelf steel to be cut out, further lightening the car. Of course those cars have a full cage so they don't get flexy when all of that steel is removed. For more Dodge cleverness check out the new SCC issue with the SRT-4 Lightweight on the cover.
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Old 09-19-2004, 06:09 AM   #259
bemani
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Who's reading knows if the plastic Legacy GT intake manifold would work on the WRX?
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Old 09-19-2004, 06:14 AM   #260
NWWagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bemani
Who's reading knows if the plastic Legacy GT intake manifold would work on the WRX?
Plastic!? Do what!?
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Old 09-20-2004, 01:14 AM   #261
bemani
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Yeah its plastic and so is the BOV and a bunch of other heavy stuff.

http://member.newsguy.com/~b534202/images/DSC00686.JPG
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Old 09-20-2004, 01:33 PM   #262
NWWagon
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Dude thats crazy, i would have never expected that on the boosted side of the turbo. That would be a great weight reducer if it worked, wonder how it flows compared to the WRX intake mani.
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Old 09-20-2004, 02:19 PM   #263
bemani
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Probably won't work due to FBW, but though I'd ask anyway.
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Old 09-26-2004, 03:10 PM   #264
exhacker
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Black

Default about to dig into my 03 wrx

OK... I'm going to start work on my 03 WRX Sedan this afternoon... after a little caffiene. Here's my list:
  • Rear Center Seat Belt Hardware
  • Spare Tire
  • Jack & Jacking Hardware
  • Rear Speakers
  • Trunk Liner
  • Plastic Seat Rail Covers
  • Heavy Rubber Pad Between Rear Seat and Trunk
  • Plastic Strut Top Mount Covers
  • Under Hood Padding
  • Black Foam Chunk in Rear of Front-Right Wheel Well
  • Dead Pedal
  • Plastic Vents Under Seats
  • Intake Scoop

I'll let ya'll know how it goes.
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Old 09-26-2004, 06:50 PM   #265
exhacker
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Black

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PAST MODS
  • K&N Drop-In Air Filter
  • Maremont Prototype 3" Stainless Steel Cat-Back (weight saved)
  • DIY Engine Grounding Kit ((weight added)
  • Sony CDX-MP70 Head Unit and Circuit City plastic single-DIN pocket (weight saved)
  • Momo Race Air Leather Shift Knob
  • Lamin-X Yellow Fog Light Covers
  • 205/50/16 Traction T/A Tires (weight saved)

RECENT WEIGHT-SAVING MODS
  • Spare Tire - DONE
  • Jack & Jacking Hardware - DONE
  • Trunk Liner - DONE
  • Under Hood Padding - DONE
  • Intake Scoop - DONE
  • Intake Silencer - DONE
  • Heat Shield Over Muffler - DONE

STILL NEED TO REMOVE
  • Rear Center Seat Belt Hardware - Need Instructions
  • Rear Speakers
  • Plastic Seat Rail Covers
  • Heavy Rubber Pad Between Rear Seat and Trunk - Couldn't Find It
  • Plastic Strut Top Mount Covers - Couldn't Find It
  • Black Foam Chunk in Rear of Front-Right Wheel Well
  • Dead Pedal
  • Plastic Vents Under Seats
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Old 09-26-2004, 06:58 PM   #266
Trunk_Monkey
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There should be two bolts below your rear seat. Then the bottom part of the seat should slide out, after that you schould be able to get the lower hardware. With the bottom of the seat out there should be three or so bolts horing the seat back in place, take those out and lift up and slide out, you will then be able to see the huge rubber pad.
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Old 09-26-2004, 10:47 PM   #267
burnera
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i don't know

Default going carpetless?

I used to own a 1988 honda prelude, and stripped it down to where it looked stolen! no radio, no speakers, no trunk anything, no carpet, headliner, etc.

anyway, i hated the bare metal look of the interior too, and also seeing the ground pass by at 70mph 4 inches away (preludes are LOW cars).

SO, i bought rhino - liner for truck beds and coverd everything where there used to be carpet. You can buy it in a lot of colors, and a $27 can will cover the entire floor. i used black, and most people that it was pretty sweet.

Of course this does add some weight back, but one layer is all you need, and the stuff will not come off if you prep the metal even a little. (you aren't going to use the cabin to haul gravel anyway)

Just thought i'd share. BTW i own a '00 L now. engine swap here i come.
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Old 09-27-2004, 01:16 AM   #268
exhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnera
SO, i bought rhino - liner for truck beds and coverd everything where there used to be carpet
That would be sweet. You could spray out your interior with a hose, if you tapered it and left a drain plug.... Just remove the seats, cover the ICE, and spray! I've always wanted an interior that flushes...

-x
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Old 09-27-2004, 11:43 PM   #269
MinesFaster
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66 Chevelle, 468bbc/600hp

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No one has seemed to mention the factory wiring harness weighing almost 75 lbs. or am I the only person to remove that? Also the Heater core weighs quite abit and isnt needed during summer.

On the note of the wiring harness...when you go to replace it with lessay a Painless wiring harness, you wont be able to use all of your speaker or all of the power windows (rears at any rate) which depending on the level of hardcore you are going may or may not matter. I have a pic of the wiring harness out of the car if someone wants to host it.
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Old 10-01-2004, 07:55 PM   #270
aspera
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Things I noticed at Colorado Cog:
The Autosport Engineering car was fabulous! The trunk bracing was cut out. The spare wheel well was lowered?!? Custom power steering and alternator mounts were fabbed. The roll cage had some state-of-the-art lower "V" bars. It had all sorts of wild mods, some of which were cheap and streetable. I really liked how fresh air was collected for the cabin. Two slots were cut into the black plastic cowl cover and then covered with screens to keep out debris. That let cool, clean, high pressure air into the same void that normally supplies the HVAC system. But intead of using a HVAC system...holes were drilled on the inside above the driver's feet and ducted with 3" hose to a round "eyeball" vent.

The Moberly car (which was rounded off a bit) had aluminum diamond plate where the stare tire well originally sat. Much like the Easystreet dragster, but with a square steel tube welded underneath to reinforce the center. A road car modded like this would have room for a diffuser.
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Old 10-02-2004, 12:40 PM   #271
Greg555
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Want engine mgmnt?
I sell ViPec's ECU's

Default Best way to clean tar is...

I used Liquid Nitrogen to freeze the goo. Scary at first but fun

Took about 2 hrs to do a whole car vs. 2 days without.

Just be carefull and don't freeze off your dick.








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Old 10-08-2004, 02:53 AM   #272
aspera
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Sweet post, but I see lots of little dents in the floor pan. Did it HAIL inside your car?
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Old 10-08-2004, 10:52 AM   #273
Greg555
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this is from me banging on it with the hammer
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Old 10-08-2004, 01:00 PM   #274
bemani
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For the side impact sensor on the b pillar , would the front air bags still work if I remove the sensors? Is there some resistor mod or something?
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Old 10-08-2004, 07:00 PM   #275
ghostfoot7
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Why not just increase the power slightly rather than ripping all that crap off?

Oh yeah, don't forget to use lightweight wheels..that'll save about 8 lbs/ wheel hopefully.

How much do you weigh anyway? Maybe hit a gym as well, but be warned, muscle weighs more than fat.
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