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Old 09-21-2011, 10:52 AM   #1201
68Cadillac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kentrik View Post
Bump to see if anyone has the for-sure, personal, first-hand experience of running a lightweight pulley with a lightweight flywheel yet? Looking for adverse conditions from a legitimate setup (no unbalanced cobb pulleys or underdrives).
I run an ACT Prolite flywheel and a set of Unorthodox lightweight under-driven pulleys on the Daily.





No problems. Bit of gear chatter on decel expecially in third. And it's touchy to launch. Love the acceleration. Damn it's fast.
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:01 PM   #1202
DarkKnightBaku
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i have heard a lot of complaints about the prolite flywheel but no one ever actually says the problems it causes, i have been debating this for a while, what is your opinion for a DD
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Old 09-21-2011, 03:37 PM   #1203
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Originally Posted by DarkKnightBaku View Post
i have heard a lot of complaints about the prolite flywheel but no one ever actually says the problems it causes, i have been debating this for a while, what is your opinion for a DD
I'm willing to compromise oodles o' comfort for performance so I might not have a rounded opinion on the matter. Acceleration is lighting quick. Wow can this thing climb the revs'. It is touchy to launch and you will kill it. When trying to do some slow speed maneuvers, like reversing from a stop uphill in a parking lot with children near the Subie. In a situation like that I'll kill it about 20% of the time. Most of the time it's not a problem. You get used to it like you would any other clutch.

There is gear chatter in all the gears but most of it happens in third. And only during light deceleration. Passengers will ask you what the noise is and if your car's okay. I really should make a video of it so all you all can hear and decide for yourselves.

Last edited by 68Cadillac; 09-21-2011 at 09:28 PM.
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Old 09-22-2011, 05:55 AM   #1204
fallehero_08
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68Cadillac View Post
I'm willing to compromise oodles o' comfort for performance so I might not have a rounded opinion on the matter. Acceleration is lighting quick. Wow can this thing climb the revs'. It is touchy to launch and you will kill it. When trying to do some slow speed maneuvers, like reversing from a stop uphill in a parking lot with children near the Subie. In a situation like that I'll kill it about 20% of the time. Most of the time it's not a problem. You get used to it like you would any other clutch.

There is gear chatter in all the gears but most of it happens in third. And only during light deceleration. Passengers will ask you what the noise is and if your car's okay. I really should make a video of it so all you all can hear and decide for yourselves.
mine makes the exact same sound, and 3rd seems to be the loudest. with my clutch its really on or off the clutch, slipping carbon isnt too good for it and feathering it usually kills it. i love it because most of my friends kill it and ive gotten it down pretty good. i kill it all the time in parking lots though, and steep hills i usually cheat.
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Old 09-22-2011, 12:23 PM   #1205
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I have my U-brace removed and added the Subimods H brace. I've ran multipal track days with some of my fastest times and feel no negative affects.
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Old 09-23-2011, 12:44 AM   #1206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murphdog View Post
I have my U-brace removed and added the Subimods H brace. I've ran multipal track days with some of my fastest times and feel no negative affects.
have you tested it with it on and off during the same day?
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:20 AM   #1207
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EDIT: Its going to be too much work to move the exhaust, looking for something like a KSB700 or Cusco brace now that doesn't sit so high up under the floor, pitty because I think this brace would have been a lot stiffer.


Moving on to version 3 of the u-brace replacement now, still wasn't happy with the h-brace, I wanted something stiffer that would bolt directly to the back of the control arms i.e. a GC8 brace.

Fitting a GC8 brace involves trimming the u-brace mounting points a little

trim these mounting tabs off


gone




painted


This is the brace I have chosen, its from Ultra Racing and is made from steel not aluminum alloy, I like the triangulation it has and I was able to pick it up for a good price by contacting the company direct via ebay.





It hits my exhaust at the moment so I haven't fully fitted it up yet but I wanted to get my exhaust tucked up a little closer to the floor so I will be getting my exhaust guy to make it clear the brace at the same time. If you have a 6 speed this brace won't fit.


Last edited by JDwhiteWRX; 10-24-2011 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 11-16-2011, 03:59 AM   #1208
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So I searched for another brace and luckily I found just the thing I wanted on ebay at a bargain price. Its a JIC Magic GC8 brace made from steel and because it mounts the the rear of the ALK it is not going to hit my exhaust.





All I had to do was remove two bolts on each side and bolt it up. I thought once I removed the front control arm bolts it may drop a little and they would be hard to get back in but they didn't. the only thing I had to do was fit it up and then torque everything back up with the full weight of the car on the suspension so the rubber bushes wouldn't bind.



So all fitted up in about 1 hour and ready for a test drive, pitty it was raining so that will have to wait until later in the week.







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Old 11-16-2011, 05:52 AM   #1209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDwhiteWRX View Post
Seems to be a bit of a myth that the Spec C has no u-brace, this car is a spec c a guy down here is setting up for track and you can clearly see the u-brace.




You sure this car isn't a V-Limited STi (assuming it's JDM)?

The V-Limited's have the roof scoop and whatnot of the Spec C, but have all the trimmings of the "normal" STi. They came with the front "U-brace" as you call it.
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Old 11-16-2011, 12:40 PM   #1210
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here is a RPM subframe brace, its lighter and makes a very big differance in front end turn in. it eliminates almost all chassis flex. it can be had for 420$

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Old 11-16-2011, 05:11 PM   #1211
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Originally Posted by Omega_2nr View Post
You sure this car isn't a V-Limited STi (assuming it's JDM)?

The V-Limited's have the roof scoop and whatnot of the Spec C, but have all the trimmings of the "normal" STi. They came with the front "U-brace" as you call it.
According to the owner its a spec c, when I asked him about the u-brace he said "Both of our Spec C's have had them... and every other one I have seen?"
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:25 PM   #1212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stu
here is a RPM subframe brace, its lighter and makes a very big differance in front end turn in. it eliminates almost all chassis flex. it can be had for 420$
I had that when I had the 06 STI; Did wonders in feel. I'd do it again if I bought another GD STI.
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Old 11-16-2011, 05:34 PM   #1213
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Another way of removing the tar sound deading that I did in my 240 is to use dry ice. Buy about 4 bags of it and let it sit on top of the sound deadening for about 15 minutes. Then, hit it with a hammer or chisel and comes right off. Make sure you wear gloves when handling the dry ice.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:24 PM   #1214
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I used my heat gun. Way less of a mess that way. Just very hot... Lol.
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Old 11-16-2011, 06:44 PM   #1215
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Dry ice is the easy way to do it, pops off in big sheets.

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Old 11-16-2011, 08:24 PM   #1216
DarkKnightBaku
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2 questions, has anyone weighed the OEM GD STI Hood and has anyone come up with a different parking brake solution to remove the rear drum parking brake, i have heard it weighs over 20lbs
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:08 PM   #1217
u2_m4r1n3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkKnightBaku
2 questions, has anyone weighed the OEM GD STI Hood and has anyone come up with a different parking brake solution to remove the rear drum parking brake, i have heard it weighs over 20lbs
It's aluminum... My guess is around 30 lbs, probably mid to high 20s.

Only other "parking brake" is using a hydrolic e brake... Not really a good replacement. But it could work.

Or... Remove it completely. It's a manual trans, put it ob reverse when you park.
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Old 11-16-2011, 10:41 PM   #1218
DarkKnightBaku
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saw a couple examples of the hydraulic e brake setup its pretty ridiculous but awesome, lots of work, definitely seems like a track car mod in terms of work to benefits ratio
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Old 11-17-2011, 01:28 AM   #1219
Murphdog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal_Scooby View Post
have you tested it with it on and off during the same day?
Never tried that. I just have times from the same track with and without the U-brace on from different days. I felt no ill effects with it off and the Subimods brace on.
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:26 AM   #1220
573
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I took my weight reduction so seriously I got a Miata.
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:29 AM   #1221
u2_m4r1n3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 573
I took my weight reduction so seriously I got a Miata.
Funny...

I guess around a go-kart track it would be fun. No need for power there :/

It's about weight to power ratio buddy... Take it easy with the miata @__@

My M3s weight to power ratio is: 11.366 lbs per WHP (stock power, lightweight)

The 09 STI I had was: 10.46 lbs per WHP (basically all bolt ons, lightweight)
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Old 11-17-2011, 02:38 PM   #1222
573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u2_m4r1n3 View Post
Funny...

I guess around a go-kart track it would be fun. No need for power there :/

It's about weight to power ratio buddy... Take it easy with the miata @__@

My M3s weight to power ratio is: 11.366 lbs per WHP (stock power, lightweight)

The 09 STI I had was: 10.46 lbs per WHP (basically all bolt ons, lightweight)
I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.

There's more to it than power to weight ratio, though. A good power to weight ratio only helps with acceleration. Being light weight helps acceleration, steering, and braking. The Miata I got has boost, and a power to weight ratio right around 11 lbs/whp. Not bad, and the car still has a lot left in it.

I don't want to derail the thread, though. Just trying to make a funny.
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Old 11-17-2011, 03:07 PM   #1223
u2_m4r1n3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 573

I say that in good humor because I used to legitimately post in this thread before I hit a deer in my WRX, totaling it.

There's more to it than power to weight ratio, though. A good power to weight ratio only helps with acceleration. Being light weight helps acceleration, steering, and braking. The Miata I got has boost, and a power to weight ratio right around 11 lbs/whp. Not bad, and the car still has a lot left in it.

I don't want to derail the thread, though. Just trying to make a funny.
Haha, all good!

And a good weight distribution!

My buddy has a miata.. he wants to boosts it too. We kid around, we are known as: LWC (light-weight crew). Lol, not really, we are the only 2 :l

I plan on being around a 9.95 lb per whp soon (300 whp); pulleys and cf driveshaft only power mods, all N/A. Just that light, for a big car.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:05 AM   #1224
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Inspired by 68Cadillac I used a spot weld removal tool on my engine bay to shave off a few brackets I no longer use.



finished and painted


[/color]
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Old 12-10-2011, 01:51 AM   #1225
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What kind of "small" batteries do you guys use?
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