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Old 10-29-2012, 09:47 PM   #1601
gtasti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxer254 View Post
with how much fuel? last time my 04 wrx was on the scales it came in at 2973 with a 1/4 tank of fuel without me in it

SS headers going on soon...
Just over 1/2 tank

And yea remember mine is the sti
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:34 PM   #1602
Str8Gone
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bump for new ideas, Im already sub 2800 with the seats in
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:47 PM   #1603
sc00by4life
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Originally Posted by tuzzio View Post
Don't forget the longer axles, and that stupid wing.
uh? maybe comparing a sedan to a wagon......
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:34 PM   #1604
bue car
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So after spending money for my crash beam, i find this. Thought I share.

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/a...crash-bar.html
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:10 PM   #1605
gtasti
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Im sure urs didn't cost 120 bucks tho
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Old 11-12-2012, 10:46 PM   #1606
bue car
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that is where you are wrong unfortunately
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Old 11-13-2012, 08:19 PM   #1607
b3delta
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for those who removed the fron bumper beam, how did you reattach the bumper? all the popits plug into the beam so whats holding ur bumper on?
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Old 11-13-2012, 11:10 PM   #1608
bue car
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My aftermarket one does not.

Last edited by bue car; 11-14-2012 at 04:21 PM. Reason: fixed
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Old 11-14-2012, 01:26 AM   #1609
dub c
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^Dont they?
I have a Turbo XS (I think) FMIC bracket to hold my bumper up.
It's made from sheet aluminum and has tabs for the popit plug's you speak of.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:10 AM   #1610
bue car
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I guess you are right.

Last edited by bue car; 11-14-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:14 PM   #1611
b3delta
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on the 03 WRX, you pull off the one piece grill and the two small pieces that cover the headlight mounts. there are 6 or seven popits that connect to the top of the crash beam, holding the bumper cover on, with the stock USDM beam removed, there is no way to attach the bumper cover except for the popits in the wheel well.

Looking down on the beam as if it is attached to the car you can see the holes
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Old 11-14-2012, 04:21 PM   #1612
bue car
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Hmm I guess you are right, my bumper does not connect there anymore.

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Old 11-14-2012, 05:32 PM   #1613
crotchbuffet
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i have the ams beam on my bugeye. i just didnt use any of those plugs in the middle. its attached by the two points at either edge of the bumper by the wheels and the four plugs that attach to the pieces between the grill and the headlights
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:01 PM   #1614
b3delta
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yeh my wheel well liners are cracked and broke so im trying to see if theres some way to rig it up without the beam and just2 plugs
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:35 PM   #1615
DamnThatRevLimiter
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Found this to read it has some related material.
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t837...ly-driver.html
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:40 PM   #1616
DamnThatRevLimiter
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:46 PM   #1617
DamnThatRevLimiter
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This one Gain weight,but is way more stiff compared to stock. Note the part about "Glue"
http://www.modified.com/features/061...z/viewall.html
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:50 PM   #1618
DamnThatRevLimiter
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And here is the last of the three from opera, and for me this was the best.
http://www.modified.com/features/061...0/viewall.html
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:27 PM   #1619
u2_m4r1n3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRR View Post
What a thread.. Inspired, Ive read the whole thing now (took 1 month, gave me 2 pages of work to do ).

Anyways, there is so much fuzz on these bumper beams, and for the record these appear to be USDM only. European cars dont have them as far as I can tell, checked 2 now (GD).

Anyone with the windscreen washer fluid in the trunk? How do you route it? I suppose the intercooler spray line would work, but I dont have that....

Im quite worried about wheight distribution. These things are 60/40 stock, and 3/4 of the wheight removed in this thread appear to go from the rear... Good excuse for keeping that big rear wing though. Ill also go for the battery in the trunk, I feel those extra oz of wire is worth the slightly better distribution.
I relocated the reservoir to the rear, its pretty straight forward.

Coilovers will be the money maker in weight distribution. You can adjust ride height to shift weight, I highly recommend it if you're serious.

On the M3 I went from a 50/50 stock distribution sitting at 3420 lbs to 2980 and a 49/51 split. Before I added Coilovers I was around a 56/44 split. Those Coilovers did good!

Last edited by u2_m4r1n3; 12-04-2012 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:07 AM   #1620
dribbler
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What about seats? how much lighter would Corbeau's or Bride's be?
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:34 AM   #1621
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u2_m4r1n3 View Post
I relocated the reservoir to the rear, its pretty straight forward.

Coilovers will be the money maker in weight distribution. You can adjust ride height to shift weight, I highly recommend it if you're serious.

On the M3 I went from a 50/50 stock distribution sitting at 3420 lbs to 2980 and a 49/51 split. Before I added Coilovers I was around a 56/44 split. Those Coilovers did good!

MOST 'good' coilovers---the ones with stainless bodies... are only a couple pounds each...think less than 5...lighter than a strut/spring

the BEST way to save weight on the front of the car is...
battery
'U' brace
lw wheels/tires
'gbod'
lw crank pulley
lw bumper beam

the above will take an EASY #125 off the front of the car...forget struts

and all the other misc things that add up to an easy #20

and i see a lot of people doing a lot of real stupid things to these cars in this thread....quite shocking, really

Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 12-31-2012 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:39 AM   #1622
dribbler
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what exactly are these green brackets? of death... and u-brace?
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:46 AM   #1623
Psychoreo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dribbler View Post
what exactly are these green brackets? of death... and u-brace?
Use google for gbod pics, they're basically a piece of metal that covers the fuel injectors. They are a MASSIVE pain in the dick to remove.

The U brace is a large piece of metal, shaped like a U, under the front of the car. It has your front tie down points on it and is basically only there for that and additional crash safety.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:26 PM   #1624
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nm....

Last edited by dribbler; 12-30-2012 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 12-30-2012, 02:00 PM   #1625
Vlad
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Here is some info which may help some..

Some research I did suggests that the R180 in an '07 Sti is heavier than the R180 in an '06 Sti, possibly adding as much as 20 lb.
This is because the '07 has a torsen limited slip locker, while the '06 has a mechanical, clutch-style locker.

Since the weight difference is rotating mass, it's effects may be equivalent to more than 20lb of weight savings.

A theory I have, which is not verified yet, is that the '06 and '07 6 speed transmissions are heavier than the '04-'05 by quite an amount.
I don't really know what it is, I am thinking it may be 40 lb.
This has to do with the center differential. The '06-'07 have an additional torsen locker, again rotating mass.

FIY, for the JDM cars, the years and nature of diff changes were the same as US. However, for the Spec C, they never went to rear Torsen, although they did so for Sti. I never looked into the center torsen for spec C, but I can look into it.

If you're looking for reliable, low mileage swaps, the JDM swap places usually have low mileage items. However the JDM 6 speed have shorter 5th and 6th.
They always have the same final ratios as the same year USDM Sti.
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