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Old 03-05-2013, 07:41 PM   #1701
Splinter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bue car View Post
Looks to be a OEM 97? or is that 98 1.8 or 2.2 manifold, EGR on the top right.
No EGR

It's a V4 STI, I cut off the bosses for the coil pack.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #1702
brendan04wrx
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I'm almost done w my rewire and I've pulled 725 feet of wiring!! haven't weighed it yet but its def a big difference
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:30 AM   #1703
gtasti
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Re wire do u mean the whole harness ?

Weight the air bag stuff if anyway took it all out I'd like to remove mine consider I only have the passenger one left in the car which I plan to take out as well
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:22 PM   #1704
vicious_fishes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b3delta View Post
for those who removed the fron bumper beam, how did you reattach the bumper? all the popits plug into the beam so whats holding ur bumper on?
basically, the remaining ones hold it on. as a result, there's great big gaps below the headlights. looks bloody ugly but hey, 12kg or whatever it is, removed from where it is...
Quote:
Originally Posted by bue car View Post
valve covers?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rally STi Guy View Post
Agreed, how did you get rid of them? (Valve covers)
sorry guys i meant the injector covers. the fat heavy things that bolt onto the manifold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
1 rad fan is that a wise one ?

I'd assume the pass side one was removed
And are u running the stock one still
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danny5 View Post
Most cars have a second radiator fan just for the Air Conditioning.
this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Str8Gone View Post
Which fan can be removed if you dont have AC?
not sure which side it is for LHD but mine was on the right/drivers side.

drive your car, park it with the engine running and eventually one of them will come on. whichever one didn't, you chuck.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:28 AM   #1705
b3delta
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bravo vicious_fishes
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:43 PM   #1706
bue car
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Haha ok I was like, no valve covers, WTH lol
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Old 03-19-2013, 03:07 PM   #1707
Himynameisgreg
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i need to get on a lot of those little things. read the first 20 and last 40 or so pages of this thread. most of you guys are trying to keep your cars street legal, so not a ton of extra ideas for me. but there are a few, like the charcoal box.
my sti was at 2880 last i had it weighed without me and with 1/4 tank of gas. and that's with a wrc rollcage lol.

taken out quite a bit since as well. getting it ready for the upcoming season. need to get rid of as much as possible so it's still light when i add my front splitter and rear diffuser.

just took out the windshield wiper motor and wipers last night. looking for more lost cost reductions.
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:20 PM   #1708
bue car
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Originally Posted by Himynameisgreg View Post
just took out the windshield wiper motor and wipers last night. looking for more lost cost reductions.

good bye misty track days and nights.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:27 PM   #1709
Himynameisgreg
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rain-x bro!

a couple of other teams out here just spray down the windshield with rain-x and go and have had pretty good success. however, i don't have a set of rain wheels/tires, so i probably wouldn't be participating anyway
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:54 PM   #1710
bue car
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Haha


On a good note, lost another 5 pounds from the driver seat!
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Old 03-19-2013, 06:46 PM   #1711
chrispsti
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driveshaft shop made....baxter approved! My cat really likes carbon fiber i guess
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:01 PM   #1712
gtasti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispsti View Post
driveshaft shop made....baxter approved! My cat really likes carbon fiber i guess
Hey lmk if u get any vibration at higher speeds
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Old 03-20-2013, 08:53 PM   #1713
chrispsti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
Hey lmk if u get any vibration at higher speeds
Will do. Im assuming your referring to highway speeds. Im just waiting for the weather to warm up to do the install
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:39 PM   #1714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by u2_m4r1n3 View Post
I relocated the reservoir to the rear, its pretty straight forward.

Coilovers will be the money maker in weight distribution. You can adjust ride height to shift weight, I highly recommend it if you're serious.

On the M3 I went from a 50/50 stock distribution sitting at 3420 lbs to 2980 and a 49/51 split. Before I added Coilovers I was around a 56/44 split. Those Coilovers did good!

Late response here, but Im not on the same page as you on this one.
The rear problem with weight (in turns) is centrifugal forces. Now weight in the front is still weight in the front if you raise the front end..... Im not saying your approach is wrong, however Im not shure that 5050 distribution really helps if its obtained simply by lowering the rear end...
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Old 03-27-2013, 02:12 PM   #1715
dub c
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Does anybody know who makes a FRP hood for 02/03 WRX's?
OEM style, without any vents.
I tried Velocity Carbon but all they do is trunks now.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:07 PM   #1716
Preludicrous
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RRR View Post
Late response here, but Im not on the same page as you on this one.
The rear problem with weight (in turns) is centrifugal forces. Now weight in the front is still weight in the front if you raise the front end..... Im not saying your approach is wrong, however Im not shure that 5050 distribution really helps if its obtained simply by lowering the rear end...
I's not as black & white as just raise/lower the front or rear. What he is referring to is called "corner weighting," it is practiced by most teams in many genres of racing. Basically your car sits on 4 individual scales (one under each wheel), then you adjust each coilover individually to distribute the car's weight in a manner that benefits your needs. This method is somewhat time consuming and requires a lot of trial and error adjustments. Remember, it all (weight) goes somewhere so you might dial the left front right where you want it and now your right rear is way out of whack.
My brother used to work for a circle track team that had a machine that could do all the adjustments with the strut/coilover completely removed from the chassis. Very cool.
Most people only view coilover suspensions as an aesthetic improvement and don't even realize the true performance gains that can be had through proper adjustment.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:46 PM   #1717
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Originally Posted by Preludicrous View Post
I's not as black & white as just raise/lower the front or rear. What he is referring to is called "corner weighting," it is practiced by most teams in many genres of racing. Basically your car sits on 4 individual scales (one under each wheel), then you adjust each coilover individually to distribute the car's weight in a manner that benefits your needs. This method is somewhat time consuming and requires a lot of trial and error adjustments. Remember, it all (weight) goes somewhere so you might dial the left front right where you want it and now your right rear is way out of whack.
My brother used to work for a circle track team that had a machine that could do all the adjustments with the strut/coilover completely removed from the chassis. Very cool.
Most people only view coilover suspensions as an aesthetic improvement and don't even realize the true performance gains that can be had through proper adjustment.

Agreed, corner weight can make wonders, and you are absolutely correct.

However, what we discussed here was the weight distribution on the tires front VS rear. If you want 50/50 on the common 60/40 impreza, you would have to raise the front end sky high or lower it a lot in the rear end. Im not saying its wrong, I just question weather or not that would be good for the handling or not.

I believe the centrifugal forces has more impact. Just look at the Audis, with their engine mounts attached to the front bumper, they undeersteer like a horce on ice! I believe, though I cant really say 100% for shure, that if you take that audi, or impreza or any other off balance car and lower the rear or raise the front, you could actually make things worse. The centrifugal weight distribution is still terrible, and with less weight on the front wheels, you now have less grip and in turn makes the front end understeer even more.

I could be completely wrong.
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Old 04-01-2013, 04:48 PM   #1718
chrispsti
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Installed my carbon fiber driveshaft today! Install was really easy and only required 14mm, and 12mm socket/wrenches. Had it done in about an hour and it was definitely worth it. The bounce i used to have when letting off the gas or getting on it quick is gone. Shifting/downshifting feels lighter and smoother when letting off the clutch, and according to the "butt dyno" it feels like i have picked up a little bit of power...nothing overwhelming, but noticeable. Old unit with the bolts and collar i removed is close to 30 lbs...the new unit is around 13 lbs. Did one pull to 80ish and their was a slight hint of vibration but nothing much. Really happy with the product that The Driveshaft Shop put out.
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Old 04-08-2013, 04:47 PM   #1719
dub c
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dub c View Post
Does anybody know who makes a FRP hood for 02/03 WRX's?
OEM style, without any vents.
I tried Velocity Carbon but all they do is trunks now.
I am also interested in this.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:26 AM   #1720
Mikeyalpine
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Im not sure if this is a good way or bad way to do things, but i drilled a 1/64" hole in the gas cap when i deleted the evap crap on several of my gm vehicles. I felt better about it than leaving hoses open (could be a bad idea in a rollover, fire situation) or completely sealing the fuel system and possably blowing a hose, seal what ever, if things got to pressurized. The only down side yet, and I did my firebird ten years ago, is you can hear a hiss from the cap when i park it if i take it for a good hard burn on a low tank. Not much smell of fuel vapour though which is good

Quote:
Originally Posted by u2_m4r1n3 View Post
From my weeks of internet research, yes. lol.

basically the fumes of the fuel create the pressure and the fuel pump helps as well. Not sure of the science behind it, but they work hand in hand... makes sense I guess.

there are 2 ways to go about it, put the 1 way valve or plug the hose. I've read people doing both, some plugging the hose and claiming fuel cap lets air in and out and will last just fine and others saying that plugging it will cause too much pressure and weaken the gas tank quicker (not months) than if it was vented; hence why some people vent it. I've also read that some people just leave the hose as is and zip tie up some where open.

I prefer to start with the 1-way vent, it's a good middle area to start; if it doesn't work i can always plug it. worst than can happen with the 1-way vent is that there isn't enough pressure. If thats the case (which I'm sure it wont be) then i know leaving the hose open to flow both ways would not be good either, since the air pressure would be equal to the exterior, therefore no pressure in the tank.

I'm doing it to my car next week sometime; hopefully by Wed.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:32 AM   #1721
Mikeyalpine
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And this has been said already in this topic, but please dont mess with bumper supports, knee plates under the dash and so on ... I had a very light cavalier and had a guy blow a stop sign and I hit him only doing 60 kph, but im still in rough shape because of it. Airbags (which i didnt have... 88 Z24) seat belts, bracing, ect are all there for a reason
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:43 AM   #1722
Splinter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyalpine View Post
And this has been said already in this topic, but please dont mess with bumper supports, knee plates under the dash and so on ... I had a very light cavalier and had a guy blow a stop sign and I hit him only doing 60 kph, but im still in rough shape because of it. Airbags (which i didnt have... 88 Z24) seat belts, bracing, ect are all there for a reason
Considering my daily driver is a 1983 Brat with none of that stuff from the factory, I fail to see the difference in removing it from my Impreza.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyalpine View Post
Im not sure if this is a good way or bad way to do things, but i drilled a 1/64" hole in the gas cap when i deleted the evap crap on several of my gm vehicles. I felt better about it than leaving hoses open (could be a bad idea in a rollover, fire situation) or completely sealing the fuel system and possably blowing a hose, seal what ever, if things got to pressurized. The only down side yet, and I did my firebird ten years ago, is you can hear a hiss from the cap when i park it if i take it for a good hard burn on a low tank. Not much smell of fuel vapour though which is good
When I had to put a fuel cell in my Brat to replace the rusty gas tank, I put in a vent line with an off the shelf rollover valve and a cheap plastic inline fuel filter to keep it from getting full of spiders.
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:20 AM   #1723
gtasti
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Can someone en lighten me how to do the magnet truck spring trick
Getting a spec c truck soon and would like to know how to remove the springs
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Old 04-20-2013, 09:45 AM   #1724
A-man07
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Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
Can someone en lighten me how to do the magnet truck spring trick
Getting a spec c truck soon and would like to know how to remove the springs
The stock springs will pop out of their retainers but you have to be kind of forceful.

I have a Spec C trunk and the difference was obvious. Of course it meant I was able to ditch the STi wing as well.
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Old 04-20-2013, 12:08 PM   #1725
gtasti
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Originally Posted by A-man07 View Post
The stock springs will pop out of their retainers but you have to be kind of forceful.

I have a Spec C trunk and the difference was obvious. Of course it meant I was able to ditch the STi wing as well.
Yeah I'm going wingless as well but would like to put in the magnet setup so the trunk stays open in the wind

Thanks for the input on the springs tho do you not have any springs at all Aman
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