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Old 04-24-2001, 10:38 PM   #1
BongMan
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Cool Battery Relocation Kits

Just wondering who's done this, if they bought a kit and what it requires. i was looking at the morosso(?sp) relocation box and it seems like a good idea but i'm not sure on what i'll need for this, like what kind of wires and where did they mount the battery.
Please post Pics!
thanks
larry
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Old 04-25-2001, 03:03 PM   #2
Rob K
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I relocated the battery on my audi in preparation for a turbo install. The morosso kit is expensive. Just buy some 4 gauge cable, and a marine battery box.
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Old 04-25-2001, 07:34 PM   #3
BongMan
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4 Gauge wire and a sealed box. Hmmm sounds simple enough. thanks
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Old 04-26-2001, 12:32 AM   #4
STiShawn
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I plan on relocating it to the passengers side of the trunk. You'll need the battery, battery box (sealed kind), long heavy gauge cable, and a way to mount the box in the trunk....
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Old 04-26-2001, 11:40 AM   #5
CosmoTheCat
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For that long of a run you might consider 0 ga wire. Then you need a piece of wire to ground it to the chassis in the trunk.
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Old 04-26-2001, 01:04 PM   #6
Rob K
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0 gauge is way thick, 4 gauge works fine. The distance on my car is at least a foot more than would be required to relocate a battery anywhere in a 2.5rs. I have no problems cranking at -30c even with my crappy battery. Also used 4 gauge for a ground, FWIW I grounded to a seatbelt bolt on my audi, just make sure to sand away any paint on the surface you are using for a ground. Also, the box I used is not sealed, it was like 10$ from a marine store. However, the battery I am using has vent on it, and I ran a hose outside the trunk using the vent.
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Old 04-26-2001, 03:47 PM   #7
Patrick Olsen
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Everything I've read says the bigger the cable, the better. If 4-gauge works, well, that's good, but I myself would go for overkill. All the guys in the Mustang world that do the trunk-mounted battery use 0/1-gauge welding cables - apparently the welding cable is more flexible than "normal" 0/1-gauge cable, and it's readily available at your local welding supply store.

Here's some advice on proper grounding I've had saved for a while. This is also from the Mustang world, but obviously the principles apply regardless of what type of vehicle it is.

"If you purchase one of the typical relocation kits out of the popular parts catalogues, what you receive is a length of 4 or 2 gauge cable, (in my case a couple of years ago, I received 4-gauge cable) and a marine battery box with a hold-down kit.

The instructions basically have you put the battery in the trunk and ground it back there to the frame or chassis.

This doesn't work for a variety of reasons. First, 4-gauge cable is simply too small to handle the resistance necessary for the power to go all the way from the trunk to the starter/solenoid. It is also too small for proper grounding.

Now, I am no expert in DC power. In fact, it is quite confusing to me. But my father is a Master Electrician so I called on his help. He explained to me that in a DC system, the grounding is actually the most important link in the power chain. Therefore, it is the grounding system that has to be the most "powerful" for lack of a better term, and have the most integrity. He drew up the plans and gave me this:
MINIMUM 2-gauge, preferably 1/0 gauge cable, unbroken, running from the factory ground location (on the timing chain cover) all the way to the negative post on the battery. Another length of the same gauge cable going from the same factory grounding location to the inner fender well or frame in the front (mine is attached to the front K-member, if I recall correctly), a ground strap from the back of the block to the firewall (this is already there from the factory but it is always a good idea to check it's condition and replace it with a heavier one if it doesn't look in perfect condition. Crap Boyz has these straps right on the shelf in different gauges). Then run a cable of the same gauge from the nagative post on the battery to a nearby ground on the chassis in the trunk. Also very important is that the auxiliary ground cable (I think it is white or black from the factory) in the engine bay needs to be grounded up there as well. With mine, I put it together with the additional strap that went from the timing chain to a nearby frame/chassis location. Then, run a minimum 2, preferably 1/0 gauge cable from the positive of the battery up to the starter/solenoid. Both the positive and negative cables can be the same gauge, or the negative can be larger, but the positive should not be larger than the negative.

This grounding system cures any problems with charging the battery. It also makes a solid power/ground connection necessary for the electronics to work properly.

According to Pro-Flow Technologies (the company that makes the Pro-M MAF meters) many people relocate their batteries and have insufficient ground in general, or do not properly ground the auxiliary wire and have all kinds of driveability problems that they can't figure out. Or they splice cables together and so on which makes for noise in the lines and screws up the electronic readings."


That may be overkill, but you'll never have any problems, regardless of what you throw at your electrical system. The guy who wrote the above passage had a BIG stereo system in the car and never had a single problem.

Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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Old 04-26-2001, 04:21 PM   #8
Really_Soaked
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You'll be fine with 2 or 4 Gauge cable.

I bought a "yellow top" Optima battery. It's sealed and you can locate it in your car.

Also it's deep cycle so it stays happy even when getting pounded by my stereo with the car off. (also it's nice an close to the amps in the trunk - which have their own 4 Guage)

Make sure you don't go overboard with the cable think of why you're doing the relocation in the first place (hopefully the balancing of weight) When you go adding 30+ lbs of cable it kinda defeats the purpose.

4 Guage (if you're not drawing crazy stereo power near the front) ground it in the rear and a sealed optima battery is a nice touch.

-Simon (with $0.98 in his pocket)
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Old 04-26-2001, 07:34 PM   #9
BongMan
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Question

fellow subaru dudes:

what kind of battery should i use? I don't want to buy an optima, because of the price and they are still fairly heavy. If i were to spend another 200 bucks it would have to be for jdm bumpers and stuff. Besides i'm not a car audio junkie, and regardless it's not going to really save me any weight.
thanks
larry
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Old 04-26-2001, 08:03 PM   #10
CRAZY KEN
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Die Hard Gold or Interstate

CRAZY KEN
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Old 04-26-2001, 09:20 PM   #11
BongMan
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ok sounds good.
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Old 04-26-2001, 09:33 PM   #12
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BongMan,

i have relocated my battery to the trunk. i can show you at the Hot Import Daze. its a Morroso battery kit from Summit Racing Catelog


cal
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Old 04-26-2001, 09:44 PM   #13
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Summitt has a new aluminum box that is smaller than the Big Blue Moroso tupperware kit. It vents to the outside which is required if you ever race the car in just about any event. I think some even require the tie down bolts to be welded to the car. Do a seach for a lightweight battery and I think you can find something on the Miata battery replacement. Way easier to put a smaller one up front than a bigger one oin the back. You do lose cold cranking power with long cables...
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Old 04-27-2001, 03:23 PM   #14
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Fritz is on to something.
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Old 04-27-2001, 06:26 PM   #15
RimRockaz
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FYI, the Morroso battery relocation kit that i got came w/ tie down bolts and a ventilation tube. the installation took me about 1.5 hour. some drilling required.
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Old 04-27-2001, 08:52 PM   #16
BongMan
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Cool I'm looking forward to that RimRockas. Sweet. aiite lates
larry
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Old 09-13-2001, 07:47 PM   #17
nhluhr
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Quote:
Originally posted by Patrick Olsen
Everything I've read says the bigger the cable, the better. If 4-gauge works, well, that's good, but I myself would go for overkill. All the guys in the Mustang world that do the trunk-mounted battery use 0/1-gauge welding cables - apparently the welding cable is more flexible than "normal" 0/1-gauge cable, and it's readily available at your local welding supply store.

Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
and all the guys in the r i c e b o y world use those 5" exhaust tips.
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Old 09-14-2001, 09:28 AM   #18
wcbjr
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Just remember the added weight of the new 0/1 gauge cable. Are you really going to get that much of a benefit from relocating weight, when in fact, you are adding weight as well?

And to nhluhr... what's up with that comment about r i c e b o y s using 5 inch tips? I hope that was sarcastic. Does a 5 inch tip allow for better flow the same way as a thicker cable allows for less resistance? i.e. you be quiet.
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Old 09-14-2001, 11:07 AM   #19
skidplatez
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I would recommend looking a smaller lighter race type battery, easier and lighter than a battery relocation.
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Old 09-14-2001, 02:13 PM   #20
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battery replacement and relocation are not incompatible, people!

bongMan has stated clearly that he is interested in moving his battery, so let him decide if he wants to. he also has said he doesn't want to buy an expensive replacement. part of the attractiveness of battery relocation is that is a labor intensive mod - but not expensive.

now, as far as the piece pat posted - i generally have a lot of respect for what you have to say, pat, but I would have a difficult time accepting the advice of someone who says DC power is "quite confusing" to them.
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Old 09-14-2001, 02:17 PM   #21
Keiho
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What are some "high performance" lightweight battery that you guys recommend?
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Old 09-14-2001, 10:51 PM   #22
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Ummm I'm suprised that this post resurfaced. Anyways I couldn't figure out the 5 inch exhaust thing? But anyways. I still have not done the relocation but I'll probable go with the morroso unless i find someone can help me make a custom system.

BTW: Even with the relocation RimRockas distribution is still on the front left/driver side of the car. This is also with the extremely heavy oem battery. I still recomend the relocation for thouse who can acomplish it.

larry
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Old 09-14-2001, 10:53 PM   #23
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keiho
they answered this already. But i bet you already knew that.
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Old 09-14-2001, 11:52 PM   #24
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This Patrick Olson fellow is damn-near an encyclopedia! The past couple of threads I've hit have been very informative.
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Old 09-15-2001, 01:24 AM   #25
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i don't understand why you guys can't comprehend the comment about 5" tips? the other guy was talking about overkill and you might as well make it overkill which is exactly what 5" tips are-- overkill. it's not that hard of a parallel, you just see the slightest bit of 'oooh, it's a comment about the 4 letter word' and you freak.
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