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Old 02-06-2003, 01:04 PM   #76
Jon [in CT]
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Quote:
Originally posted by Juliano
Ok. Cool thread. Great tip. Can we take it one step further? Would it feasible to modify the ECU's power source by wiring in an interupt switch that would allow the user to reset the ECU by way of a dashboard mounted switch, rather than crawling into the passenger footwell every time?
I don't think you even need to disconnect the battery at all. I think that the ECU will try to re-learn a new ignition advance factor every time you turn on the car. This is because you might have filled the tank with a different octane fuel while the car was turned off.
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Old 02-06-2003, 02:12 PM   #77
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My dd logs show that the ecu after a reset readily tests for proper timing. It usually is bouncing around and seems to retard with knock, hittting an upper limit at a certain rpm, or with maf changes. Since the ecu apparently does not adjust timing for knock above 5500rpm, my timing can easily get out of hand at the upper rpms. It typically will jump 3-5 degrees at 6200rpm. This timing jump can last anywhere from weeks to months. Once it settles down, you get a much smoother timing curve without big gaps in timing changes.

Does the shiv reset help with this problem? My ecu was already showing a smooth timing curve and the shiv reset didn't seem to effect it at all (why reset the ecu when timing looks good) so I can only assume it has no effect on this particular issue or that my ecu timing multiplier was already set. Too bad I can't say the same about my a/f learning. Apparently, it has to be set by another means. I guess I will have to wait another month or so and keep changing a/f to compensate.

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Old 02-06-2003, 02:13 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by Juliano
Ok. Would it feasible to modify the ECU's power source by wiring in an interupt switch that would allow the user to reset the ECU by way of a dashboard mounted switch, rather than crawling into the passenger footwell every time?
I think you mean looking under the HOOD to get to the battery for a reset.
sav
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Old 02-06-2003, 05:06 PM   #79
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No. Actually, I said exactly what I meant. There is a thread on one of these boards about disconnecting the power source to the ECU at the ECU, so as to avoid resetting the radio presets every time you disconnect the battery. I am asking whether the power source to the ECU can be directly interrupted with a switch without negative consequences to the way the ECU receives the power supply.
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Old 02-07-2003, 05:18 AM   #80
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Juliano,

I thought about maybe at the fuse box?

I havent modded yet so havent tried it

Shotgun
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Old 02-07-2003, 09:53 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by Juliano
No. Actually, I said exactly what I meant. There is a thread on one of these boards about disconnecting the power source to the ECU at the ECU, so as to avoid resetting the radio presets every time you disconnect the battery. I am asking whether the power source to the ECU can be directly interrupted with a switch without negative consequences to the way the ECU receives the power supply.
I see, yes I remember that thread. I guess what confused me was

"...rather than crawling into the passenger footwell every time.."

I never considered that someone might actually be willing to climb into the foot well, pull back carpet, take off the kick plate, disconect/reconect power to the ECU, and then reassemble everything EVERY TIME they needed a reset, just for radio stations

my bad
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Old 02-07-2003, 01:05 PM   #82
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Found this on an Australian site. Hope it helps.

How to reset your ECU (without disconnecting your car battery!)

Following extract from Brett Middleton of MRT Performance (Thanks Brett!)

By the way its in the WRX book...

ECU clear memory procedure is as follows:

1) With engine at operating temperature, turn engine off and place gear shift lever into park (auto transmission cars)

2) Locate the two ECU check connectors, for most cars they are located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector. The exact location of the connectors varies with the different year models, but generally they are located under the steering column on the drivers side. With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.

3) their exact location varies depending on the year model


4) Turn on ignition and cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park (auto transmission), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h. (Ed. don't have to do the gear shift cycle in a manual car, only the auto)

5) At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.

6) the ecu is now clear and re set!

7) choose your favourite radio station without having to reset it ! (grin) for more data and regular info like this subscribe our regular update service........ http://www.MRTrally.com.au The TRUE rally based enhancement workshop

regards, Brett

(Disclaimer: If you don't think you are capable of following this, or have any doubts, DON"T DO IT! Go see your local performance shop ie MRT and ask for there help.)
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Old 02-07-2003, 01:56 PM   #83
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Rocket, If memory serves, those instructions don't apply to MY 02+. There is another procedure for new age WRXs.

Sav, my bad. What I meant to imply is that the best way of resetting the ECU is to disconnect it directly, rather than disconnecting the power for the entire car (I haven't reset it even once by disconnecting the ECU power source). Given that premise, I'm looking for a way of resetting the ECU in the best way, without crawling into the blah, blah, blah. If I'm going to do all that, I'd like to figure out a mod to do while I'm in there.

So my (basic) question still stands. Can wiring and a switch be insterted into that circuit to allow an ECU reset at the ECU's power source?
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Old 02-22-2003, 04:12 PM   #84
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Newbie question here. I don't have a boost gauge.....yet and I was wondering how easy it would be to do a Shiv Reset just by using the tach???
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Old 02-23-2003, 02:13 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rocket Wagon
Found this on an Australian site. Hope it helps.

How to reset your ECU (without disconnecting your car battery!)

Following extract from Brett Middleton of MRT Performance (Thanks Brett!)

By the way its in the WRX book...

ECU clear memory procedure is as follows:

1) With engine at operating temperature, turn engine off and place gear shift lever into park (auto transmission cars)

2) Locate the two ECU check connectors, for most cars they are located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector. The exact location of the connectors varies with the different year models, but generally they are located under the steering column on the drivers side. With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.

3) their exact location varies depending on the year model


4) Turn on ignition and cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park (auto transmission), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 11 Km/h. (Ed. don't have to do the gear shift cycle in a manual car, only the auto)

5) At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be professionally checked for necessary repairs.

6) the ecu is now clear and re set!

7) choose your favourite radio station without having to reset it ! (grin) for more data and regular info like this subscribe our regular update service........ http://www.MRTrally.com.au The TRUE rally based enhancement workshop

regards, Brett

(Disclaimer: If you don't think you are capable of following this, or have any doubts, DON"T DO IT! Go see your local performance shop ie MRT and ask for there help.)
Plugging the two green connectors together in an '02 and up WRX will put the ECU into a type of diagnostic mode. ECU will be reset and fans and CEL will cycle on and off. After unplugging the connectors and restarting the car everything will be fine expect for the ignition advance multiplier will be at ZERO, not the usual 8 or the best-for-performance 16 that the Vishnu Reset induces.

Cheers,
Shiv
www.vishnutuning.com
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Old 03-11-2003, 01:53 PM   #86
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Question (I hope this wasn't answered somewhere already) - how can one do this if one were not to have a boost gauge in one's car, even though one really wants to get said gauge really badly but one does not have funds for such purchases right now??

Last edited by sonicblue; 03-19-2003 at 03:32 PM.
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Old 03-11-2003, 02:01 PM   #87
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Default Two green connectors

Plugging the two green connectors together in an '02 and up WRX will put the ECU into a type of diagnostic mode. ECU will be reset and fans and CEL will cycle on and off. After unplugging the connectors and restarting the car everything will be fine expect for the ignition advance multiplier will be at ZERO, not the usual 8 or the best-for-performance 16 that the Vishnu Reset induces.

One could then use the ECU learning trick to advance the ignition advance multiplier, right?
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Old 03-11-2003, 06:28 PM   #88
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Ok, stupid question.

Can we just do this WITHOUT resetting the ECU? Lets say Im on my way to an autox and just want to make sure the multiplier is good to go. Will doing this trick max it out,or does the ECU have some kind of failsafe built in, where this only works right after a reset.

-Tom
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Old 03-12-2003, 07:38 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally posted by trhoppe
Ok, stupid question.

Can we just do this WITHOUT resetting the ECU? Lets say Im on my way to an autox and just want to make sure the multiplier is good to go. Will doing this trick max it out,or does the ECU have some kind of failsafe built in, where this only works right after a reset.

-Tom
*bump* for a good question. i'd like to know too
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Old 03-13-2003, 01:10 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by trhoppe
Ok, stupid question.

Can we just do this WITHOUT resetting the ECU? Lets say Im on my way to an autox and just want to make sure the multiplier is good to go. Will doing this trick max it out,or does the ECU have some kind of failsafe built in, where this only works right after a reset.

-Tom
double bump
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Old 03-19-2003, 12:00 PM   #91
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Q's for Shiv and Jon:

1. It was said that any Subaru ECU should respond to the "Shiv Reset"... now my question is for the AFI folks will bypassing the turbo yield the most advance... I suppose the same question would apply for the FFI guys too (or why is 2psi the magic number?).

2. I'm running WAY too much fuel for my low boost setup and am almost maxed out on my AFM correction... I discovered that my ignition retard settings were great with smaller injectors but caused very choppy power with 420cc's. When I went back to factory RS timing all was well and I began playing with adding advance to the already aggressive RS timing curve... will this technique help/hurt the timing curve (since the RS was never intended to see boost) or (like in question 1) would bypassing the turbo yield the most aggressive timing curve?

Juliano, the idea on a switch has been toyed with around here before... you should be able to wire in a kill switch to the ECU ground and interupt it (same effect as unplugging the neg battery terminal?). I think there may one or two folks on the board with an ECU reset switch, ask around.
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Old 03-19-2003, 12:00 PM   #92
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Q's for Shiv and Jon:

1. It was said that any Subaru ECU should respond to the "Shiv Reset"... now my question is for the AFI folks will bypassing the turbo yield the most advance... I suppose the same question would apply for the FFI guys too (or why is 2psi the magic number?).

2. I'm running WAY too much fuel for my low boost setup and am almost maxed out on my AFM correction... I discovered that my ignition retard settings were great with smaller injectors but caused very choppy power with 420cc's. When I went back to factory RS timing all was well and I began playing with adding advance to the already aggressive RS timing curve... will this technique help/hurt the timing curve (since the RS was never intended to see boost) or (like in question 1) would bypassing the turbo yield the most aggressive timing curve?

Juliano, the idea on a switch has been toyed with around here before... you should be able to wire in a kill switch to the ECU ground and interupt it (same effect as unplugging the neg battery terminal?). I think there may one or two folks on the board with an ECU reset switch, ask around.
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Old 03-19-2003, 03:27 PM   #93
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Couple questions/comments here.

First comment is on the memory clear procedure that was posted from MRT.

This procedure is the same across pretty much all newer subarus, 1990+ The 1990 Legacy FSM gives that procedure to clear the codes, connect the green & black connectors.

The black connectors connected alone displays any active codes that are stored in the ECU's memory.

The green connectors as shiv mentioned puts the car in an active diagnostic mode.

Question here is.....is there a difference between resetting the ECU, and just clearing the codes? In the past I have said yes, there is a difference. But that was mainly due to how the car responded after disconnecting power from the ECU, vs. just clearing the codes with the connectors.

Secondly....this question was asked earlier in the thread, but I didn't see an answer, does this trick work with n/a cars, and if so, what would be the proper procedure/instructions to get the ECU in the "mood" to raise the timing.

I think that'll hold me over for now.
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Old 03-19-2003, 05:04 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally posted by legacy777
Secondly....this question was asked earlier in the thread, but I didn't see an answer, does this trick work with n/a cars, and if so, what would be the proper procedure/instructions to get the ECU in the "mood" to raise the timing.
I believe, in the case of normally aspirated 2.2 and 2.5 engines, that their ECUs do NOT learn an overall ignition timing advance adjustment factor based on the fuel's resistance to knock because I believe they have only a single ignition advance table and a single fuel enrichment table, both designed for 87 octane fuel. Running more than 87 octane in those engines will not buy you any extra timing advance (power).
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Old 03-19-2003, 05:33 PM   #95
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I did the green connector thing today to reset a CEL. It worked fine, but still looking for Shiv to answer whether the ECU learning trick will work after this type of reset.
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Old 03-20-2003, 09:39 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jon [in CT]
I believe, in the case of normally aspirated 2.2 and 2.5 engines, that their ECUs do NOT learn an overall ignition timing advance adjustment factor based on the fuel's resistance to knock because I believe they have only a single ignition advance table and a single fuel enrichment table, both designed for 87 octane fuel. Running more than 87 octane in those engines will not buy you any extra timing advance (power).
Hmm.....that sucks.......

What about the old gen turbo legacies. Does this feature seem to only exist on turbo cars?
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Old 03-25-2003, 06:27 PM   #97
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Default Hello Jon

Quote:
Originally posted by Jon [in CT]
I believe, in the case of normally aspirated 2.2 and 2.5 engines, that their ECUs do NOT learn an overall ignition timing advance adjustment factor based on the fuel's resistance to knock because I believe they have only a single ignition advance table and a single fuel enrichment table, both designed for 87 octane fuel. Running more than 87 octane in those engines will not buy you any extra timing advance (power).
Hello Jon[CT] ,

Why would you think that an N/A ECU would adjust timing differently when the patent you linked to earlier didn't seem ECU specific? *BTW: That was great information. I can't help keep reading through the patent(s) now, the diagrams, etc*.

I'm looking through my XT6s FSM (Factory Service Manual) now (Yes OBDI and different ecu, etc) but I was thinking maybe the patent would apply to it also. It says that under normal operating conditions spark advance angle is calculated from the following three factors:
1) Engine speed compensation,
2) Advance when starting the engine,
3) Advance in all driving conditions except staring the engine, after engine speed exceeds the preset value.

When knocking occurs (in the model...XT6), the ECU unit retards spark timing to prevent engine knocking. It keeps working in a cycle like this:

1) Knocking occurs,
2) Retard Timing,
3) Knocking is elminated,
4) Advance Timing gradually,
5) Feedback
5a) If no knocking go to #4, if knocking go to #2


In this instance, it doesn't mention any preset limits of advance. The only limitation seems to be when knocking occurs. I was thinking the same thing applied to the later scoobies as well. Any comment(s)?

*BTW...this whole thread just blows me away. Lots of information, theories, etc. I love it*

Also, I'm going to test this out myself at the dragstrip to see if any difference is found. I'm currently using 87 octane. I tested before with higher octane and found that my 1/4 mile time actually got worse (in a 1997 2.2ltr Impreza as well as my 1989 2.7ltr XT6). Now that I understand this ECU reset and quick learning advance timing bit, I'm going to test again...with 93 octane. Only one way to find out rather than just discussing it. Take Care Jon!
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Old 03-25-2003, 10:29 PM   #98
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TRHoppe, Jim and Wes,

Don't know if anyone picked up your question, so I'll answer it here...

The ECU is pretty much always using the advance multiplier. If you have been driving the car normally to aggressively, it will have learned up to its potential. You dont have to do this periodically to ensure good advance or anything. Shiv's trick is best for getting the car back to that normal, well-learned stage quickly after a reset. I wouldn't reset right before an autox at all.

Normally, you can left foot the advance from 8 (starting) to around 12. The car can be a little more finickly getting to 16, but it doesnt take long even with normal driving. Go pull up a hill in fourth gear at 2900 - 3000 rpms and it gets there usually.

If you left foot too aggressively you can take it the other way. Just yesterday, I had done a reflash, left foot braked to take the advance multiplier up from 8 to what I thought would be 12 or so quickly. The map was not aggressive, but I got too heavy with the left foot, trying to save time - the car bogged, and the advance actually dropped. Just be a little gentle.

Ken
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Old 03-26-2003, 02:35 PM   #99
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I must have read it wrong or something. So just be at complete stop in third gear. Start going forward at around 2500rpm while braking to build boost while only moving at 2500rpm and do this for 5 seconds. Is that correct? By not pushing to hard on left foot you mean not braking to hard so u dont bog?
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Old 04-04-2003, 01:39 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally posted by dan avoN7
I must have read it wrong or something. So just be at complete stop in third gear. Start going forward at around 2500rpm while braking to build boost while only moving at 2500rpm and do this for 5 seconds. Is that correct? By not pushing to hard on left foot you mean not braking to hard so u dont bog?
right - u do not want to bog the car to shut down and stall.
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