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Old 07-21-2004, 04:51 AM   #151
adg016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaus
can't confirm it, sorry

-- Ed
Thanks for the honest reply. Anyone else? I didn't see any appreciable increase in whp using this reset as opposed to a standard reset on my 2004.
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Old 07-22-2004, 05:34 AM   #152
Simon Lines
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Your only going to get an increase if it's got bad (low) learning, it could get slower!

Cheers

Simon
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Old 07-22-2004, 02:35 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Lines
Your only going to get an increase if it's got bad (low) learning, it could get slower!

Cheers

Simon
Are you providing confirmation that this type of "trick" will work on a 2004, or don't you know for sure? A reset will, of course, bring back power after some bad learning, but will the Vishnu method yield any more?
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:35 AM   #154
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Look the "Vishnu Method" is just a hard EMS re-set followed by utilisation of the optimal load speed / load sites to get the advance multiplier up to 16. Once it's on 16 (assuming it stays there) you get best usage of the ign correction 3d map and therefore "best" ign advance.

However, as in most cases this is not a hard and fast rule, more a general assumption. It could be that your vehicle is running well it's multiplier has been on 16 for ages and it has positive learning in it's fine ign correction, this mean's your getting more than it you did the re-set and got it onto 16 again because the learning (good learning in this case has been wiped)

Without the ability to check your just stabbing in the dark...

Cheers

Simon
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Old 07-24-2004, 05:29 AM   #155
nhluhr
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Simon, can you respond to Stephen Done's recent assertions that once IAM=16 there is no more fine learning to be added to the total timing?

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600203
http://forum.ecutek.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=413
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Old 08-01-2004, 06:37 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vishnu Performance
Just a little trick that has been shown to accelerate the factory ECU's ignition timing learning process.

.....Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower

....Cheers,
shiv
www.vishnutuning.com
UGH easier said than done.....I gave up LOL
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Old 08-03-2004, 11:03 PM   #157
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I did this trick succesfully my first try and it made a big difference over a normal reset, felt like 15-20 hp too! i have cobbs stage 2.5 map with vf-34, gruppe-s header, TBE, fuel pump, 565cc injectors, and hyperflow TMIC. the car is way pepier down low even in the 107 degree weather. My one question is, how long will it last? will the ecu learn to be conservative again?
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Old 08-06-2004, 10:51 PM   #158
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[quote=Vishnu Performance]
First: With the car fully warmed up, reset the ECU. This can be done by killing power the ECU or by simply pulling off the neg. battery terminal and pressing the brake pedal for a couple of seconds.

Second: Drive to a nice open road without traffic. Don't go on boost until you get there. Put the car into gear (3rd gear works the best) bring the revs up to 2600rpm. Push the go pedal down slightly so boost stays right around 2-4psi. You will need to MAINTAIN 2500rpm and 2-5psi for approx 5 seconds. You can do this by left-foot braking gently as to prevent acceleration. During these few seconds, the advance multiplier (which you can't see so you'll have to trust me) will go from 8, to 12 and then to 16. Works like a charm. And on our reflashed ECU, is worth an immediate 10-20 horsepower QUOTE]

Shiv,

Isn't this a potentially dangerous trick? I will have to take your word that it will work but if you are artificially setting a parameter within your ECU that otherwise might not get that high couldn't it cause some damage? What happens if you do this trick and it goes to 16 but because of some issue with your car or the gas you are getting or any other number of factors your ecu would usually normally set this parameter at some lower number. If this is the case how long does it take the ecu to adjust this number down from 16. I assume it is much faster than moving it up but is it an instant thing or could you possibly go full boost a couple times (and consequently cause some damage) before it adjusts down.

Look forward to some more information.

Keith
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:48 AM   #159
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Default agh

Back to this thread -

Basically, Shiv pointed out a good method for getting your car to learn to advance more quickly here.

The same thing is achieved simply by driving up a hill. You are subjecting your car to load so that it learns. Otherwise the car will wait for some load to learn.

If you've gotten some bad fuel, an ECU reset may help you, otherwise it is a bit of a waste of time...

Keith - good question here. Actually, you aren't setting anything artificially up for the ECU to get ahead of itself. If it doesn't like the current fuel, it simply won't advance as far... as Stephen said I believe, you'll get back to the place that you were. On the other hand, if two tanks ago you got bad fuel and now you're back to good gas... the car may not have decided to advance fully just yet. By doing the reset, you're giving it a chance to start fresh.

Many people, without a full understanding of the reset, do it much more often than necessary in a nervous effort to keep the car happy. Our counsel: relax and let ECU do its job. The left foot brake method is an easy way once you've done a reset to feel quick results. But the end result is still the same.

Regards,
Ken
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Old 08-11-2004, 04:47 AM   #160
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I was just wondering, I have a unichip in my car right now, (probably the only one that still have it) and will this reset help my car or will it just stay the same or make no different??????
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Old 09-10-2004, 06:58 PM   #161
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Default HKS FCD Question

I have a HKS FCD from my supra tt, can I use this unit in my STI an if so, what should I set it to and how. Thanks Johnny
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Old 09-10-2004, 07:27 PM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcue
I have a HKS FCD from my supra tt, can I use this unit in my STI an if so, what should I set it to and how. Thanks Johnny
What the heck does this have to do with the topic? Start a new thread in the proper forum and you'll probably get the answer you need.
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Old 09-13-2004, 01:23 AM   #163
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My stock 2004 STI has a knocking issue. Will this help? What can I do to reduce the knock. I run standard 91 octane.
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Old 09-13-2004, 11:28 AM   #164
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Take it back to the dealer...
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:01 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyOOOOO
my great-grandaddy always used to say... "better safe than sorry when it comes to yer brakes!"

Great grandaddy must be REAL young...
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Old 10-04-2004, 11:38 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impreza2fast
I was just wondering, I have a unichip in my car right now, (probably the only one that still have it) and will this reset help my car or will it just stay the same or make no different??????
Hey I've got a Vishnu EMI for $75 bucks, it's supposed to make the uni-chip more stable.
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:25 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobhooks
My stock 2004 STI has a knocking issue. Will this help? What can I do to reduce the knock. I run standard 91 octane.
Advancing the timing on a car that's already knocking will NOT help it. You'll need better gas to keep your car from knocking, or get a more conservative map. You need retarded timing, not more.
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:24 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowphun
Might want to rethink that, as those distances in 5 seconds work out to 90-180mph.

Paul

hahah
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:30 PM   #169
WilmoWRX
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what is knocking?
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Old 12-17-2004, 11:57 PM   #170
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I did this once with my vf34 and it worked great. Iíve since done more mods and put in a vf22. Have EcuTek under a UTEC, with an AVC-R. Ran across this FAQ again and decided to re-do it.
Thing is the VF22 really is working at 2,500 rpm to develop boost that low. I ran it in third after resetting the ECU. I had to give the 02 wrx quite a bit of gas for 4psi, and ride the brake hard, to keep the rpmís from jumping.

Held it for a good five seconds. But I just got a whirr sound coming from the turbo, NO boost either. Drove the car down to the shop. Noise is coming from the turbo. I thought maybe I erased my EcuTek reflash - - but alas I blew the center cartridge. Iím putting in a 2.5 Axis anyway and have a 20G ready to go.

Cliff notes. VF22 may not like trying to push 4psi at 2.5 gr for five seconds. They are not the best turbo and donít even spool until 3.4 gr.




Last edited by unkadave; 12-18-2004 at 12:07 AM.
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Old 12-20-2004, 02:32 PM   #171
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the trick works at 3100RPM.... you could have probably done it fairly easily at 3100... not that it matters since your ecutek reflash most likely starts with an IAM of 16 and your UTEC is controlling absolute timing anyway.

-- Ed
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Old 12-20-2004, 04:05 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaus
the trick works at 3100RPM.... you could have probably done it fairly easily at 3100... not that it matters since your ecutek reflash most likely starts with an IAM of 16 and your UTEC is controlling absolute timing anyway.

-- Ed
...



I needed a FP Green anyway.





But thx
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Old 12-25-2004, 04:25 PM   #173
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So, since turbo'd cars are happier in the cold (air temp, density...) since it is now below freezing, does it even pay for me to do this to my stock ecu?

Matt
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Old 12-26-2004, 07:39 AM   #174
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I wonder if the same trick works on STIs?
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Old 01-22-2005, 10:22 PM   #175
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interesting.
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