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Old 01-29-2003, 05:16 PM   #1
slim speedy
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Default Does anyone know how to use helicoils or other thread repair?

i am just not meant to work on cars. First I put a hole in my radiator while putting the 16G on my Laser. So I get that taken care of, almost done, last bolt and I am finished. And I mange to strip the threads out on my oil supply line to the turbo!! The oil supply is in the head and the head is aluminum on this car, I must have cross threaded it and killed the threads. I think it is possible to repair this with a helicoil, but I have never used them before and I really don't want to screw my car up even further. Can anyone help me with this? The car is not driveable without the oil line so we would have to do this at my place in Chantilly. I will GLADLY pay anyone who is willing to help me out with this. Also since this is the oil feed line for the turbo, does anyone have any ideas on how to clean all the crap in there from the threads that I stripped?
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:35 PM   #2
rhdude
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Shoulda let me help!

Sorry, not sure how to use a helicoil....

Could you take pics of the stripped part? Is the oil feed line male and the block female? Not sure exactly what is stripped...
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:45 PM   #3
iceNine
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Have you tried to use a tap (of the same size and thread pitch) to try to clean out the threads? Sometimes just carefully taping out the hole will repair the threads enough to be usable as long as the hole/threads aren't really badly mangled.

Dale
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:46 PM   #4
rhdude
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hum, just an idea, if the block was female, you could use a tap to rethread it but with bigger threads, then get an adapter to match up the oil line threads to the newly tapped hole?.. just an idea...
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:49 PM   #5
slim speedy
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I'm ussually pretty careful working on cars, I have no idea how I got so stupid while I was doing this. The head is female, and a banjo bolt goes into the head to supply the oil line. I stripped the threads putting the banjo bolt into the head.
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Old 01-29-2003, 05:51 PM   #6
Wheeler Bement
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the helicoil is basically the same as tapping. you have to remove whatever is in there first, drill out the threads and then insert the helicoil. the helicoil is now your thread.

check this page out for the right size you need

http://www.ersco-mi.com/helicoil3.html#top2
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Old 01-29-2003, 08:18 PM   #7
TaiChih
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I hope no metal shaving will be going into the engine block when you go to repair this. Helicoil is a thread repair. essentially, if the hole is stripped, the helicoil acts as a sleeve for a larger new hole, but the inteior of the thread will be the same. here...

Drill - Drill out the damaged threads using the drill size specified in the catalog. Drill to sufficient depth to accommodate the insert length and bolt or screw being used.
Tap - Use the Heil-Coil Tap specified in the catalog. Check the size on your shank to make sure you have the right one. Tap the hole to sufficient depth to accommodate the insert length and bolt or screw being used.
Install - Use the specified installation tool. Just wind the insert into the hole until the top coil is 1/4-1/2 turn into the tapped thread.
Note: Remove tang with the appropriate tool specified.
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Old 01-29-2003, 08:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by rhdude
hum, just an idea, if the block was female, you could use a tap to rethread it but with bigger threads, then get an adapter to match up the oil line threads to the newly tapped hole?.. just an idea...
That's exactly what a helicoil does. You tap a new hole slightly bigger and then thread in the helicoil. A helicoil is basiclly a wire wound really close together.

I've done it several times on bikes, so I could help out...the only problem is that I have no idea the next I'll be home. It may not be until my spring break (second week in Mar)

Jim
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Old 01-29-2003, 11:25 PM   #9
slim speedy
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Ok I think the helicoil idea is a bad one due to all of the metal shavings that are probably going to end up in my motor and/or turbo no matter how careful I am. The other thing I can do is block off the oil fitting in the head completely and get the oil from the oil filter housing. This is a better location for the feed anyway as the oil is coming straight from the filter. The problem now is how do I block off the head? I could retap it and put a bolt in there to block it off... but I have never used a tap before and don't really want to learn on my head. Is there any good way to block it off without retapping? Or is there anyone who wants to help me tap that head... well that doesn't sound right at all.
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Old 01-30-2003, 12:20 AM   #10
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BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA omg.. BWHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
seriously tho... I know Steve has some taps and dies... ask him to help you "tap that......."
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Old 01-30-2003, 06:51 AM   #11
Adrift
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It sound like all of these options are gonna require the head coming OFF your engine.
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Old 01-30-2003, 07:07 AM   #12
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JB Weld.... I've used it to hold in a helicoil for a sparkplug before. it worked for about 250 miles... And that was under the pressure and heat of the cyl. For your application, it could last permanently. I would recomend it as a LAST resort. But you could use if for blocking off the hole. Just put a good bit around the bolt and stick it in.
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Old 01-30-2003, 12:56 PM   #13
BossGVR4
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Default DSM mode ON

Ummmmm yeah ......

You should get a $50 oil line kit from roadraceengineering.com or turbotrix.com and feed nice COOL FRESHLY FILTERED oil to your turbo. NOTE getting the bolt out of theoil filter bracket/housing is a PITA and you will need airtools or a LONG breaker bar.

As for keeping shaving out of your motor .. not gonna happen as long as the head is on there and you are tapping it. You can "try" to be careful when doing it but some will inevitably fall inside the head. If your head is fresh then I would pull it do the fix and have it hot tanked and cleaned again. If it hasnever had anyting done to it (valve job, stem seals) then I might just say eh F- IT and do the repair.

Just my .02

DaveC
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Old 01-30-2003, 01:07 PM   #14
TaiChih
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to do it right, your options are
1. pull the head and retap it with helicoil to prevent shavings from entering the cylinders and scratching up the cylinder walls, and get blow by......

OR

2. see option 1.



Of course, you could try jb weld and the likes, but
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:14 PM   #15
slim speedy
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Well this isn't good news... I hate this damn car! I just had the head rebuilt maybe 50 miles ago. When it was in the shop the turbo "mysteriosly" goes bad, I sue the shop, shop goes out of business. I replace the turbo, and just about everythine imaginable goes wrong. I really don't want to have the head pulled off the car yet again. I guess I should have just paid curry's there $400 - $600 to replace the turbo... Oh well so much for saving money.
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:19 PM   #16
slim speedy
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Wait a minute? The head is aluminum. Know I know getting aluminum shavings into the block isn't exactly good for the motor, but I wouldn't think that aluminum would be able to scar steel, since aluminum is so much softer? Of course I am an idiot lately, so what am I missing?
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:32 PM   #17
TaiChih
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sure, aluminum is softer than steel, but what is your piston ring made of? would you want to risk a blown motor, all because you wanted to save money on removing the heads,. Seems, to me, it just gets worse everytime you try and save money. Save money. It's up to you, it's not my motor. tap away
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Old 01-30-2003, 02:56 PM   #18
slim speedy
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The problem is that I don't have a garage or anywhere to work, so I would probably have to take the car to someone. There isn't anyone around here that does decent work for a reasonable price. The last company that rebuilt my head charged me over $1200 and did a ****ty job. I don't really have any more money to put into this car, so I don't know what to do.
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:02 PM   #19
TaiChih
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It's not like you have to get the heads rebuilt again, just remove them, tap and reinstall( the hard part about retorquing them in a particular order)but, you will have to pull the motor though. Who was the original co that messed it up to begin with and who rebuilt it recently?
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:08 PM   #20
slim speedy
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This is the laser (inline DOHC) not the subaru, so you don't need to pull the motor to do the head. The guys that rebuilt the head and messed up my turbo and other thinns here and there was ODM in Manassas, they used to specialize in DSM's until they went out of business 5 days after I filed my lawsuit.
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:16 PM   #21
TaiChih
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ok, so where is the stripped oil hole located on the motor (exactly, pic would help) and is therea lot of space to work around the area, or is it a tight fit? You could possibly take the valve cover off and catch all the shavings that would fall in and then do a helicoil insert.
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:23 PM   #22
BossGVR4
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Default OFF-Topic ODM

I never heard good things about ODM ... I never heard of or saw a car that could run (at the track or otherwise) come from that shop. The only person working there that was cool was Brad Bauer .... so believe me when i say he probably never touched your car.

I watched them work on a car and put the parts in little ziplock bags and write with a Sharpie what they were. Anyone who claims to be a GOOD DSm mechanic should be able to get by with one of those magnetic tray that hold all your bolts. .... nuf said

I can pull a DSM head in about 1 hour. My Headwork cost me $175 at L&M machine in Woodbridge. New timing belt and accessory belts run about $90.

DSM area PAIN to work on but I have torn down and rebuilt 2 Galant VR4's. I am sick of it and am buying a Forester and some kind of Suby Turbo in the future. MITSU SUCKS
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:37 PM   #23
slim speedy
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So are interested in making some money and working on my car?
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:54 PM   #24
slim speedy
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The last pic on this page shows the location of the oil feed line on the head, this one is already blocked off with a bolt, so the oil feed goes right where that little hex bolt is. I don't remember if you can get to the feed line from the inside by removing the valve cover or not. I am trying to find a picture with the valve cover off.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2G-16G.html

Last edited by slim speedy; 01-30-2003 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 01-30-2003, 03:58 PM   #25
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I don't know how bad you stripped the threads, but before you do ANYTHING further to them, try using a thread chaser first. It's sort of like a tap, but it can't start the threads, there has to already be a little bit of something left to the old threads, you screw it in, and it'll push out any shavings or reform any smashed threads, within reason. Try using one of those first. If you can't get any reasonable help by the weekend, I'll bring my tap sets up from Richmond when I come back on Monday morning, I've got 4 sets.
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