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Old 05-29-2009, 11:12 PM   #476
vision.dynamix
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Im bumping this.
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Old 05-30-2009, 01:32 PM   #477
bestint
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brunetmj View Post
Would you be able to clarify the location of the tach wire. I am not familiar enough with the car to know where the intake pipe is. Is this in the engine compartment? If anyone is wondering about the use of the green tach wire off the ECU, well all I can say is , it did not work with the remote starter I am using.

On the non-turbo models the tach is in pin 22 of the 35 pin plug. On the turbo models the tach is in pin 22 of the 35 pin plug. On the STi models the tach is in pin 23 of the 34 pin plug. The tach wire is also found behind the instrument cluster.
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Old 09-22-2009, 11:44 PM   #478
PeaPod7
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Remote Start Guru's, why can't I just hook up the (-) Status wire direct to the clutch bypass? Rather than use a relay or hook up the (-) 2nd Remote Start wire and diode isolate. I am using a Clifford 50.7x.

Thanks, PeaPod7.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:45 AM   #479
thedaddyb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeaPod7 View Post
Remote Start Guru's, why can't I just hook up the (-) Status wire direct to the clutch bypass? Rather than use a relay or hook up the (-) 2nd Remote Start wire and diode isolate. I am using a Clifford 50.7x.

Thanks, PeaPod7.
you can . . . as long as no other device needs to use that output. If something else does you will need to diode isolate.
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:36 PM   #480
PeaPod7
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OK good. I am not using the (-) status output for anything else. I have an 05 Saab 9-2x which does not have the transponder key so I don't need it for that.

I did hook it up last night and it seemed to work fine. I did not have the problem where if I used the 2nd stater output would make the car start when you push the clutch in with the key in the ignition, so I should be good to go.

Thanks.
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:33 AM   #481
qualityracer
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I have a Scytek RS series for my 02 to be installed, it requires a e brake (-) input, just kinda lazy to test it myself, lol will test it though.... do I get a (-) from the ebrake wire when engaged, and (+) when disengaged? I guess this is the same as the Neutral wire earlier was mentioned?

Thanks
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:30 AM   #482
Uncanny
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With the e-brake, you get a (-) when engaged, and N/C (no connection) when disengaged
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:08 PM   #483
charlesdixon
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Hey I'm just now entertaining the idea of putting a remote start on my car so obviously I have a lot of reading researching to do but i had a quick question...

My car is an 06 WRX Auto, is there anything specific I should know about putting a remote start on my car?
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Old 10-17-2009, 12:34 AM   #484
qualityracer
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I believe the newer subie require a key bypass module, you put your 2nd key in the module, and hook it up to the remote starter module... that is the only thing different from the older subies.
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Old 10-22-2009, 12:16 PM   #485
Mystic
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heres one i havent been able to find ...2001 Outback 5 speed does this car have a NSS wire ? color and location polarity please ? thanks
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Old 11-11-2009, 08:04 PM   #486
benjimatt
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Hey guys I just got finished installing a viper 5901 alarm system on my friends 2005 wrx. Just wanted to throw out some wire colors and locations.

Im going off this diagram and I want to point out some differences.

For the clutch bypass I used the blue status wire and hooked it to the colored wire the was on the top harness (white/clear) . For some reason his car really didnt need the clutch bypass??

The trunk pin was one of the yellow/red wires that was in the stock keyless entry module (which we did unplug)

For the door unlock and lock the colors are correct on the sheet but I did not use the keyless entry module. I went ahead and used the gray plug on the black box that is under the dash. The box has blue and gray plugs. its the gray one.

I think the tach input for the 2005 turbo model was pin 10 in a 35-pin plug. Just use the ecu plug input its very easy to get to the ecu on these cars.

Since your at the ECU now you can do the Nuetral safety wire (or whatever its called). I dont know how everyone is wiring these but I hooked it directly to the Black/white wire on the alarm system which is ((-) nuetral safty switch input) And when the car is in gear the remote start does not engage :-) this is 2005 IDK about any other years.

Also all of the fused wires for the remote start can either go to the constant 12+ wire or straight to the battery. Its your choice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post




Where is the defroster wire?
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:25 AM   #487
speedymatt
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ref: 2003 Baja at

ok i'm looking at installing a avital avistart 4003, this system uses and aux imput from the keyless system to ativate the unit. example: you press the lock button three times which activates this "aux" signal and the unit starts the car. now the question:

does the subaru factory keyless (not alarm) have this aux signal needed to fire the unit?

or should i bite the bullet and go for the 4113 that adds yet another remote to my key chain but fires the unit from that remote?
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Old 12-30-2009, 02:53 PM   #488
NoAffiliationSTI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedymatt View Post
ref: 2003 Baja at

ok i'm looking at installing a avital avistart 4003, this system uses and aux imput from the keyless system to ativate the unit. example: you press the lock button three times which activates this "aux" signal and the unit starts the car. now the question:

does the subaru factory keyless (not alarm) have this aux signal needed to fire the unit?

or should i bite the bullet and go for the 4113 that adds yet another remote to my key chain but fires the unit from that remote?
why not do the 4113, that way you don't have to use your factory remote, there is barely a price difference between this and the 4003
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:40 PM   #489
wrxed02
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OK so I have an isssue will kinda of a big one... So the other day I got the alarm portion working and today I finished the Remote start part and here is the issue.... OK so I have the Clifford 50.7x which is almost the same alarm as the one below. So I confirmed the wire were the same as said spreadsheet below and went on with the install. Alarm portion worked great and remote start not so... I have it all hooked up per instructions besides the NSS as its going to the green wire on the E-Brake, only wire on ECU is Tach. So I can remote start the car with the remote no prob but... I am not able to use the key to start the car anymore!!! It will go to acc but will not start... This is an 02 Wrx Auto, no hood pin,No defroster Hooked up, ALSO DID NOT HOOK UP VIOLET WIRE!!!... Now its throwing a damn CEL again after install..... PLEASE HELP!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post



Last edited by wrxed02; 02-11-2010 at 09:55 PM.
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Old 02-14-2010, 04:14 PM   #490
Kayem
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I am getting ready to install a Viper 5902 on my 2006 WRX Limited with a M/T and I am trying to put my shopping list together. I should also note that the factory alarm was deactivated by the dealership.

From everything I have read, I need the Directed 556UW transponder bypass, and the Xpresskit DLPK CANBUS in addition to the alarm itself. Is there anything else I need?

I am looking for the most straightforward install possible. Will the above products be ideal for a 5902 install, or should I be looking at other products?

Also, Directed websites say the DLPK is only compatible with 2008-2010 WRXs. Should I ignore this? Will it work for my '06?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 02-14-2010, 06:06 PM   #491
Uncanny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayem View Post
I am getting ready to install a Viper 5902 on my 2006 WRX Limited with a M/T and I am trying to put my shopping list together. I should also note that the factory alarm was deactivated by the dealership.

From everything I have read, I need the Directed 556UW transponder bypass, and the Xpresskit DLPK CANBUS in addition to the alarm itself. Is there anything else I need?

I am looking for the most straightforward install possible. Will the above products be ideal for a 5902 install, or should I be looking at other products?

Also, Directed websites say the DLPK is only compatible with 2008-2010 WRXs. Should I ignore this? Will it work for my '06?

Thanks in advance!
You don't need the DLPK, the WRX didn't become canbus until 08. You will need the 556U/UW though.
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:26 PM   #492
Kayem
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncanny View Post
You don't need the DLPK, the WRX didn't become canbus until 08. You will need the 556U/UW though.
Ah.. good to know. Thank you Uncanny.
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Old 04-11-2010, 10:39 PM   #493
SilverJS
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Quick question for everybody :

I want to add a remote actuator to my hatch (I've got an 02 hatch with full 07 STI swap). I was thinking of having the first button press on my unlock remote open all the doors (basically splice the red/green wire into the red from the module), and use the second press to activate the actuator to unlock (via relay, of course).

Only one question remains : what wire do I tap into to have it lock?
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Old 05-03-2010, 12:49 PM   #494
zyklonbee
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I'm not sure what all the talk is about requiring a diode / relay / anything to connect to the neutral safety wire on the ECU. Installed a Viper 5901 last night in my 2006 WRX, we connected the e-brake wire on the Viper, that needs to be shown ground to allow the car to start, directly to the NSS wire on the ECU. So, I don't have e-brake detection on the car, but IMO the gear status is more important.

It starts in neutral but not in gear. Am I missing something here or will this burn out my NSS switch somehow?
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:53 PM   #495
ptirmal
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Going to install my 5501 on my 2002 wrx this weekend, few questions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thedaddyb View Post
the red, red/white, and red/black all go to +12 volts at the ignition harness. Black/white to white at the ignition harness

pink/white you will not need. your vehicle only has 1 accessory and 1 ignition wire

pink/black you don't need either. it's only used on some vehicles where the ignition isolation is necessary to avoid the starter from grinding.
Can I just connect these (H1/2, H3/5, H3/2, H3/9) to +12v at the battery? I have a fused wire coming into the cabin for the trunk solenoid relay, I can connect these four wires to that right? Vision/Dynamix has it as "Black/white" and "Black/white to white" at the ignition harness.

On my 5501, H1/10 is White/Blue - (-) REMOTE START/TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT is supposed to be hooked up to a N/O Momentary switch. This sounds like it's for push button start and use as a turbo timer? I don't need that so I'm not planning on hooking that up.

Looks like when the weather gets warmer all I have to do to get the 530t to close the windows when I turn off the car is turn on 1-8 comfort closure to on and hook it up to the lock output.
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Old 11-18-2010, 07:09 PM   #496
ptirmal
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Ok, some more research and it looks like my answers are yes for the first question and correct for the second.

New question regarding the parking light output of the viper 5501 (how to set the jumper), or more importantly what the wrx needs, +ive or -ive on the parking light line (orange on 2002 wrx) to turn the lights on. If I don't get an answer I'll test it this weekend, I'm assuming it needs to be -ive.
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:58 PM   #497
02SilvaWagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptirmal View Post
Ok, some more research and it looks like my answers are yes for the first question and correct for the second.

New question regarding the parking light output of the viper 5501 (how to set the jumper), or more importantly what the wrx needs, +ive or -ive on the parking light line (orange on 2002 wrx) to turn the lights on. If I don't get an answer I'll test it this weekend, I'm assuming it needs to be -ive.
You must use the (+) parking light wire. The switch you normally use to turn on /off the parking lights is dead with the ignition OFF. If you use it, the lights will do nothing if you go to lock/unlock your car when the ignition is OFF. You have to use the switch on top of the steering column when testing for the wire. It works with the ignition OFF, and it sends a (+) signal to the parking lights.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:23 AM   #498
ptirmal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02SilvaWagon View Post
You must use the (+) parking light wire. The switch you normally use to turn on /off the parking lights is dead with the ignition OFF. If you use it, the lights will do nothing if you go to lock/unlock your car when the ignition is OFF. You have to use the switch on top of the steering column when testing for the wire. It works with the ignition OFF, and it sends a (+) signal to the parking lights.
Ah, forgot about that switch, thanks for the info.
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Old 11-20-2010, 10:44 AM   #499
ptirmal
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Have an issue finding the black ignition + wire. Under the ignition area there are two connectors both have a black wire, I tested both but neither show 12v when I turn the car to the on position. I'm confused as to where else I could look for it.
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Old 11-20-2010, 04:43 PM   #500
ptirmal
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So I ended up taking the top of the steering column off and I saw the black, black/yellow and black/blue wires, I traced them to a connector that I saw mentioned on this link:
http://www.scoobymods.com/turbo-time...larm-t228.html

Problem is when I attempt to remote start it attempts but it never cranks. I ran a wire for the tach signal that was recommended (ecu pin 24 ignition coil) and it looks like the programming took (solid blue light as per manual).

Clutch switch is currently bypassed.

Sounds like a starter wire not being connected properly? Here is my diagram:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CP-tx88B
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