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Old 12-12-2011, 02:18 PM   #551
CSVT_2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjamz

They are all pretty much universal and the #1 factor will be the install as far as making them fool proof and problem free. If possible, ask to see pictures of past installs so you can see their workmanship. If the wiring is neat and tidy, they take pride in their work, if it is a rats nest, their work may be good but if/when you have a problem troubleshooting will be a nightmare.

Also, find out how long they have been doing them and develop a list of wants/needs and make sure that they are comfortable fulfilling them. Ask about hidden fees as well (shop supplies, bypass modules, relays, etc....) Most reputable places should be able to quote a 2008 Rav4 off the top of their heads and should know exactly what parts will be needed.

FYI they need a starter and bypass module, relays should not be necessary for doorlocks, but they will probably need one for the 2nd Starter and 2nd Ignition wires found on that vehicle....if they charge you "extra" to tie in the door locks I think they are ripping you off as the bypass module will handle all of that as well as vehicle security, immobilizer bypass, etc... so if they charge you extra for any one of those, I'd say they are just taking advantage of you financially.
I wouldn't be so sure to call out not needing a relay for door locks, some toyota/lexus vehicles require a relay for the lock detection so the unlock will work. As for the actual triggering, typically toyotas/lexus use negative triggers and most units we use have negative outputs (assuming DEI platform). I'm not at work to check the vehicle out.
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Old 12-12-2011, 04:43 PM   #552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
I wouldn't be so sure to call out not needing a relay for door locks, some toyota/lexus vehicles require a relay for the lock detection so the unlock will work. As for the actual triggering, typically toyotas/lexus use negative triggers and most units we use have negative outputs (assuming DEI platform). I'm not at work to check the vehicle out.
I'll call it out with 100% certainty on this vehicle. It's all done via the bypass module. I've installed 8 of them in the past month in rav4's.



And for a little more proof that even if you didn't use an all in one bypass module like an ADS AL-CA but just used a transponder bypass (ADS AL-TB for example) you would still just use a single wire to pulse the door lock circuit w/ a negative 12 volts.

[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by tjamz; 12-12-2011 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:39 PM   #553
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thanks guys, definitely some useful info here.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:01 PM   #554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjamz

I'll call it out with 100% certainty on this vehicle. It's all done via the bypass module. I've installed 8 of them in the past month in rav4's.

And for a little more proof that even if you didn't use an all in one bypass module like an ADS AL-CA but just used a transponder bypass (ADS AL-TB for example) you would still just use a single wire to pulse the door lock circuit w/ a negative 12 volts.

[/IMG]
db-all does the same thing too...
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:17 AM   #555
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Just had a couple of Viper 5901 with an interesting quirk to the install programming.

Most were manual installs.

But all would give the "remote start error" on the remote, but would not give an error parking light flash on the vehicle.

Turned out to be the activation pulse in the programming was set to 2 pulses. Since you can't pulse the remotes twice, it's gives the error.
So setting the option to 1 fixes the error.

Didn't see the info in any searches so I'm just gonna post it here.
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Old 12-15-2011, 12:22 PM   #556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typhoonk
Just had a couple of Viper 5901 with an interesting quirk to the install programming.

Most were manual installs.

But all would give the "remote start error" on the remote, but would not give an error parking light flash on the vehicle.

Turned out to be the activation pulse in the programming was set to 2 pulses. Since you can't pulse the remotes twice, it's gives the error.
So setting the option to 1 fixes the error.

Didn't see the info in any searches so I'm just gonna post it here.
Yeah you can... you just press the remote start button twice.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:42 AM   #557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
Yeah you can... you just press the remote start button twice.

Not on the two-way 5901 remote. Doesn't work. Just gives error.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:47 AM   #558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typhoonk View Post
Not on the two-way 5901 remote. Doesn't work. Just gives error.
Your doing it wrong..
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:40 AM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
Your doing it wrong..
Well then please tell me what I am missing.

set setting to two pulses. done.
push remote start button on 2-way remote twice. done.
error on remote. car doesn't start.
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:21 PM   #560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typhoonk

Well then please tell me what I am missing.

set setting to two pulses. done.
push remote start button on 2-way remote twice. done.
error on remote. car doesn't start.
Press the remote start button for 2 seconds, let go press for another 2 seconds let go.

You get an error tone because you hit it only once, hence the no parking light flash as well.

Only time I've had your issue was on the 5301's, they had a software error that would cause the unit to give an error tone when remotely stopping remote start.

Last edited by CSVT_2004; 12-19-2011 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:52 PM   #561
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Default 2012 Subaru Outback Factory Remote Starter

Anyone know the pinout or a way to disable the remote starter from turning OFF the engine after opening the doors? It's very counter-intuitive and frustrating trying to load son / groceries into the car when it's cold outside.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:21 PM   #562
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Originally Posted by phantasm View Post
Anyone know the pinout or a way to disable the remote starter from turning OFF the engine after opening the doors? It's very counter-intuitive and frustrating trying to load son / groceries into the car when it's cold outside.
1. De-install Subaru optioned remote start
2. Install good aftermarket unit
3. ????
4. Profit!


But on a serious note, do you happen to have a schematic of the OEM system?
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:39 PM   #563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
Press the remote start button for 2 seconds, let go press for another 2 seconds let go.

You get an error tone because you hit it only once, hence the no parking light flash as well.

Only time I've had your issue was on the 5301's, they had a software error that would cause the unit to give an error tone when remotely stopping remote start.
Great! Thanks for the info. Good to know all the little options for these things.
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Old 12-19-2011, 03:50 PM   #564
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After reading this, I'm gonna do one of the Viper systems after xmas.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:26 PM   #565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay25RS View Post
1. De-install Subaru optioned remote start
2. Install good aftermarket unit
3. ????
4. Profit!


But on a serious note, do you happen to have a schematic of the OEM system?
Don't have a schematic. Looking for anyone out there that has one and or ideas. Seems like one pin out is going to sense doors being opened or closed so looking to short that pin-out so I can use the system like a normal person would.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:31 AM   #566
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Originally Posted by typhoonk View Post
Great! Thanks for the info. Good to know all the little options for these things.
Did you get it to work at all?
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:41 PM   #567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantasm View Post
Don't have a schematic. Looking for anyone out there that has one and or ideas. Seems like one pin out is going to sense doors being opened or closed so looking to short that pin-out so I can use the system like a normal person would.
I'm not sure if this helps or not but this is from Wirecolor.com.

Code:
#	Polarity	Wire/Function		Color Location/Description
23	~		CAN Bus (High)		Red OBD-II connector (PIN 6)
24	~		CAN Bus (Low)		Light Blue OBD-II connector (PIN 14)
31	~		Doorlocks - Data	Yellow At module at the right of steering column
36	+		12 Volts 1		White Ignition Harness
38	+		Ignition 1		Green Ignition Harness
39	+		Ignition 2		Blue Ignition Harness
43	+		Accessory 1		Yellow Ignition Harness
47	+		Starter 1		White / Blue Ignition Harness (May be White/Green)
48	+		Starter 2		White / Red Ignition Harness
54	-		Parking Lights		Black / White Parking Light Harness
57	+		Foot Brake		Green / Yellow at Brake Switch
						Orange / Black @ EVO-CAN White 6-Pin Connector
						Black @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
59	-		Emergency Brake		Brown / White @ EVO-CAN White 10-Pin Connector
						Brown / White @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
65	-		Clutch Switch		Black / Blue at Clutch Switch
82	-		Lock & Arm		Purple @ EVO-CAN White 6-Pin Connector
						Purple @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
84	-		Unlock & Disarm		Purple / White @ EVO-CAN White 6-Pin Connector
						Purple / White @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
90	-		Trunk Release		Yellow / Black @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
98	-		Dome Sensor		Green @ EVO-CAN White 10-Pin Connector
			Green @ EVO-ALL 	White 20-Pin Connector
103	-		Trunk Pin		White @ EVO-CAN White 10-Pin Connector
						White @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
106	-		Horn			Red Steering Column
112	~		Tach			Pink @ EVO-CAN White 10-Pin Connector
						Pink @ EVO-ALL White 20-Pin Connector
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Old 12-20-2011, 05:52 PM   #568
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Did you get it to work at all?
Not yet. Have about five of them to do next week. I will check it out then

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Old 12-20-2011, 06:35 PM   #569
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Originally Posted by typhoonk

Not yet. Have about five of them to do next week. I will check it out then

I have to apologize, I may have jumped a little too early to yell at you. I texted my friend @ DEI to inquire about your predicament since I've never seen it. He said there is no official issue, but he has heard of issues like you are describing happening. I haven't personally had the issue. I know those buttons suck balls for pressing, esp the ones on the side. I know if they aren't pressed hard enough or long enough a lot of times they don't do what they are suppose to. I've had that system not respond on the first press for other things like the lock/unlock. Usually a longer press fixes that issue, even when you quickly press it and feel it click, sometimes that quick press isn't enough to transmit the signal to the unit. Also if someone can't handle one press, TOO BAD!!!!! I mean seriously, how do you accidentaly press the 5901/5902 remote start button, it's next to impossible. If they some how magically are doing that, introduce them to the key guard on the remote. Requires an unlock sequence to use the remote. I wouldn't even mess with telling them about the 2 press activation. I have some jack ass I put one in about a month ago, and NOW he wants to add window mods.... wtf dude, it's the middle of remote start season. It's all nicely installed, tapped, soldered, and now your dumb ass, wants window mods on your ****ty ass dakota.... come on man.... Personally I feel most issues are user related. If it's really that bad, make sure your customer filled out their registration and have them RMA it to the dealer/manufacturer.

I'd love to complain even more about my job and how ****ty it's getting, can't wait to get out of there!!!

Anyways, sorry about yelling.
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:47 PM   #570
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its plassible !!!!
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:16 PM   #571
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CSVT I know exactly what you are talking about. I did starters at C.City for about 6 years or so and this time of year was just complete hell. I'm so glad I got out of it. Doing it on the side now is a little better (don't have near the volume) but its also a little more nerve racking b/c there is no back-up if something goes wrong... and the resources are limited (can't go to DEI anymore for help)
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:30 PM   #572
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CSVT I know exactly what you are talking about. I did starters at C.City for about 6 years or so and this time of year was just complete hell. I'm so glad I got out of it. Doing it on the side now is a little better (don't have near the volume) but its also a little more nerve racking b/c there is no back-up if something goes wrong... and the resources are limited (can't go to DEI anymore for help)
Good to hear, I'm actively pursuing a new job.... I basically baby sit the people that work with me and teach sales people while I'm trying to do MY job! I've reached my boiling point. I have a Bachelors degree in computer networking administration with an emphassis on security. So yeah... make more doing that than at BBY dealing with stupid annoying customers. I used to bend over backwards to help someone get their **** in, but it's not worth it for how screwed over and bitchy customers are. Can't wait to be done and moving on.
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Old 01-04-2012, 11:49 PM   #573
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FYI. If doing a remote start in a 4 door 08 Imprezza automatic. You'll need 2 FLCAN's to do the effing install. 1 to handle the immbilizer and 1 to handle the OEM alarm. Just did one today easy install, but wasn't prepared for the 2nd module. Also you will need access to idatalink's website to preform KLON for the bypass module. I did it with an avital 4111. Oh, also had to use (-) starter output to relock the vehicle, during remote start the disarm will cause the bypass module to unlock the drivers door, use (-) starter output diode isolated to relock during remote start. Will need an extra relay for 2nd starter on DEI platforms. 2 starters wires, 2 accys, 1 ign, 1 constant. Don't believe the directtechs print out that says the keysense wire will disarm without unlocking. Didn't work for me. The immobilizer bypass also has a connection for keysense, I called IDATAlink and they said it was an output. I thought that was for the disarm no unlock, both the module and a separate relay did not disarm from keysense. Had to use the 2nd module to accomlish the intended goal of disarming. Good luck!
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:27 AM   #574
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Just disable the OEM alarm per the directions on cars101.com.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:46 AM   #575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay25RS
Just disable the OEM alarm per the directions on cars101.com.
So then the customers car isn't as secure.... IMO a car should work the same as it did when it came in regardless of what aftermarket prodcut was added.
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