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Old 01-05-2012, 09:50 AM   #576
jay25RS
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Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
So then the customers car isn't as secure.... IMO a car should work the same as it did when it came in regardless of what aftermarket prodcut was added.
To me on my own car and to many others who will be working on their own car referencing this thread, the factory alarm is an utter waste. I don't depend on it at all and most will be installing a combination unit anyways.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:03 AM   #577
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I know markets vary but is there anyway you can give me an idea of what the total cost for the 4111 was installed?

Quote:
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FYI. If doing a remote start in a 4 door 08 Imprezza automatic. You'll need 2 FLCAN's to do the effing install. 1 to handle the immbilizer and 1 to handle the OEM alarm. Just did one today easy install, but wasn't prepared for the 2nd module. Also you will need access to idatalink's website to preform KLON for the bypass module. I did it with an avital 4111. Oh, also had to use (-) starter output to relock the vehicle, during remote start the disarm will cause the bypass module to unlock the drivers door, use (-) starter output diode isolated to relock during remote start. Will need an extra relay for 2nd starter on DEI platforms. 2 starters wires, 2 accys, 1 ign, 1 constant. Don't believe the directtechs print out that says the keysense wire will disarm without unlocking. Didn't work for me. The immobilizer bypass also has a connection for keysense, I called IDATAlink and they said it was an output. I thought that was for the disarm no unlock, both the module and a separate relay did not disarm from keysense. Had to use the 2nd module to accomlish the intended goal of disarming. Good luck!
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:22 PM   #578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay25RS

To me on my own car and to many others who will be working on their own car referencing this thread, the factory alarm is an utter waste. I don't depend on it at all and most will be installing a combination unit anyways.
The beauty though of not disabling it is that you can use a cheaper unit but still have security. Otherwise yes your way does make sense if you are doing a comb unit. This was an avital 4111, so just start and unlock. This allowed for disarm and rearm after shutdown with just a basic unit.

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Originally Posted by blackhawk77
I know markets vary but is there anyway you can give me an idea of what the total cost for the 4111 was installed?
What kind of vehicle?
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:50 AM   #579
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The beauty though of not disabling it is that you can use a cheaper unit but still have security. Otherwise yes your way does make sense if you are doing a comb unit. This was an avital 4111, so just start and unlock. This allowed for disarm and rearm after shutdown with just a basic unit.
But for the cost of the module you can upgrade to a combo unit.
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:54 AM   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay25RS

But for the cost of the module you can upgrade to a combo unit.
Possibly. Not always though.

Last edited by CSVT_2004; 01-06-2012 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:04 AM   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackhawk77
I know markets vary but is there anyway you can give me an idea of what the total cost for the 4111 was installed?
At any bestbuy your looking at 237.96 plus tax..
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:38 AM   #582
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At any bestbuy your looking at 237.96 plus tax..
I would say closer to 275 + unit + tax. Will require 2 different FLCAN's. Assuming that is that it has factory security.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:55 AM   #583
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Thanks, that part I know, my concern is how bad will the extra modules for a 2011 WRX hit me? All the bad reviews I see about best buy are typically about people getting hit with extra costs at install time. I fully understand additional money will be required, just trying to get an idea of how much.

I know if DEI was used I would at least need a 556UW and an DLPK but it sounds like Bestbuy uses iData modules.

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At any bestbuy your looking at 237.96 plus tax..
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:19 AM   #584
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237.96 is installed before tax.. fyi no need for a second flcan.. it makes it easier but it can be done without it.. done like 30 newer Subaru's this season and have yet to do the 2 flcan way
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:20 AM   #585
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And to clarify by installed I mean all parts and unit included
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:28 AM   #586
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Sorry bone move on my part.. that was with a 556u.. to go with the flcan it would be 47 dollars more
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:52 PM   #587
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We use both DEI's DB-ALL module and idatalinks FLCAN. We have a couple of older units leftover from last year, xk01, xk06, and dlpkchg2. we used to carry DLPK, not anymore though IIRC. IMO f to the uck on losing a key to make a remote start work when you can get a module that will allow you not to lose a key. Yeah you can get a copy of a key for a decent price uncut usually, but it's easier to use a module..... Data override > Lose a key. I also don't remember seeing anything about disarming the factory alarm other than keysense, which I've found out was not useful. At least on the suby I did. Each install bay will be different, you'll have to call around to find out the prices. Like I said, with my bay I'd be 140 + 145 + possible 130 if a second module is needed. Not a fan of 556uw unless it's utterly needed and there is no data override available.

Last edited by CSVT_2004; 01-06-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 11:30 PM   #588
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Fyi the disarm with key sense also requires key data so you fire up your module and ignition. Done it plenty.. and I promise to all who read this you can go to best buy or call and ask them for the price of an avital 4111 installed in your newer Subaru and they will quote you 285 if you go with the flcan.
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Old 01-07-2012, 12:21 PM   #589
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Ran into two issues, the Avital 4111 is for automatics only and also the bestbuy nearest to me doesn't do installs on manuals anyways .



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Originally Posted by jegomes View Post
Fyi the disarm with key sense also requires key data so you fire up your module and ignition. Done it plenty.. and I promise to all who read this you can go to best buy or call and ask them for the price of an avital 4111 installed in your newer Subaru and they will quote you 285 if you go with the flcan.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:23 PM   #590
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Originally Posted by blackhawk77
Ran into two issues, the Avital 4111 is for automatics only and also the bestbuy nearest to me doesn't do installs on manuals anyways .
WTF!!!!! okay seriously any bestbuy can do it, I effing hate bays who are to ***** to do them!!!! RAGE!!!!!!!!!!! You will need a 5xxx series unit, aka 5101, 5301(4204), 5701, 5901, 5902, etc. If done properly, the installer shouldn't have any worries. Personally if you can't handle challenge and change, as in now doing manuals, you need to find a new job.

Please post the store location number (not the phone number) if you have it. Or it's address. I would like to give corp a hello and find out why they are bitch'n out.
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:09 AM   #591
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Default Viper 5902

Sorry to be a bother with noob questions. I just wanted to make sure. I have a 99 2dr RS 5MT. I wired up most of the Viper 5902 alarm and remstart to my vehicle. I had a couple of questions.

1. H3/2 - (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Input 87, H3/6 - (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input, and the H3/9 - (+) Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input all go onto the ignition harness wire color black/white together correct? No need for a diode or anything special?

2. The "key side" and "starter side" (starter input/output respectively) in the manual is referring to the respective sides of the Starter Interlock Relay for harness connection H3/4 and H3/5 no?

3. Lastly, Like a complete idiot, I pulled out the terminals from the ignition harness to make it a bit easier to solder without looking at where they plug back into. I realized that AFTER I had pulled the last terminal from the connector. I am now stuck and can't recall which wire connected to which slot for the correct connection.



PLEASE help a noob in need!!!!!
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Old 01-19-2012, 09:54 AM   #592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr.noh
Sorry to be a bother with noob questions. I just wanted to make sure. I have a 99 2dr RS 5MT. I wired up most of the Viper 5902 alarm and remstart to my vehicle. I had a couple of questions.

1. H3/2 - (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 2/Flex Relay Input 87, H3/6 - (+) Fused (30A) Ignition 1 Input, and the H3/9 - (+) Fused (30A) Accessory/Starter Input all go onto the ignition harness wire color black/white together correct? No need for a diode or anything special?

2. The "key side" and "starter side" (starter input/output respectively) in the manual is referring to the respective sides of the Starter Interlock Relay for harness connection H3/4 and H3/5 no?

3. Lastly, Like a complete idiot, I pulled out the terminals from the ignition harness to make it a bit easier to solder without looking at where they plug back into. I realized that AFTER I had pulled the last terminal from the connector. I am now stuck and can't recall which wire connected to which slot for the correct connection.

PLEASE help a noob in need!!!!!
1. If you are speaking of the red, red/white, and red/black, they all go to a constant 12V+ source., I usually cut 2 shorter and tap them in with the red wire. then run a single wire to the ignition wiring for constant

2. Once again usually this is at the ignition, depending on how your clutch system works. some clutches activate a relay some have the starter go from the ignition through the clutch to the starter. If yours is the latter, run purple and green to the wires after your clutch. Purple goes to the starter, green goes to the ignition/clutch pedal. This is for the security/anti grind. Otherwise if the clutch activates a relay, run purple and green to your main ignition, purple to starter side, green to key side, and then make sure you trigger your relay properly.

3. Only wire you should have pulled out was pink/black. there should have been no reason to remove the wires to install them.


What model is your vehicle, I'll try to get you a schematic of the starter circuit at some point here tonight. I'll see if I can snap a pick of a harness for you as well. If youcan't wait that long, call dei's tech support line, they should be able to help you re-pin that harness and also give you insight to how your starter circuit should be hooked up.
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Old 01-19-2012, 02:47 PM   #593
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Originally Posted by CSVT_2004 View Post
1. If you are speaking of the red, red/white, and red/black, they all go to a constant 12V+ source., I usually cut 2 shorter and tap them in with the red wire. then run a single wire to the ignition wiring for constant

2. Once again usually this is at the ignition, depending on how your clutch system works. some clutches activate a relay some have the starter go from the ignition through the clutch to the starter. If yours is the latter, run purple and green to the wires after your clutch. Purple goes to the starter, green goes to the ignition/clutch pedal. This is for the security/anti grind. Otherwise if the clutch activates a relay, run purple and green to your main ignition, purple to starter side, green to key side, and then make sure you trigger your relay properly.

3. Only wire you should have pulled out was pink/black. there should have been no reason to remove the wires to install them.


What model is your vehicle, I'll try to get you a schematic of the starter circuit at some point here tonight. I'll see if I can snap a pick of a harness for you as well. If youcan't wait that long, call dei's tech support line, they should be able to help you re-pin that harness and also give you insight to how your starter circuit should be hooked up.
Thanks so much for the help. I have a 99RS 5MT 2dr
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Old 01-20-2012, 12:11 AM   #594
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Thanks so much for the help. I have a 99RS 5MT 2dr
If option 2 is easy to reach, it would be my preference for installation. Please PM me your e-mail and i'll send you the PDF diagram of the starting circuit.

Option 1:
White/Black at ignition harness, cut wire, purple to car side, green to key side. @ the clutch pedal switch, send a negative status to Green/Yellow, can use blue, blue/white, or (-) purple 2nd starter. REMEMBER to DIODE isolate which ever you choose to use so it doesn't backfeed when you press your clutch in for normal starting.

Option 2:
Grab White/Red @ the shift interlock relay, this is the wire after the relay that White/Black runs into. The clutch has to be pressed for power to pass from white/black to white/red. Could also just do your purple and green there as well, wouldn't have to use a blue, blue/white, or purple (-) to trigger the clutch switch. Cut White/Red and connect purple to car side and green to relay side.

Either way will provide anti grind and security, just figure out which is easier.

Last edited by CSVT_2004; 01-20-2012 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:25 AM   #595
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We use both DEI's DB-ALL module and idatalinks FLCAN. We have a couple of older units leftover from last year, xk01, xk06, and dlpkchg2. we used to carry DLPK, not anymore though IIRC. IMO f to the uck on losing a key to make a remote start work when you can get a module that will allow you not to lose a key. Yeah you can get a copy of a key for a decent price uncut usually, but it's easier to use a module..... Data override > Lose a key. I also don't remember seeing anything about disarming the factory alarm other than keysense, which I've found out was not useful. At least on the suby I did. Each install bay will be different, you'll have to call around to find out the prices. Like I said, with my bay I'd be 140 + 145 + possible 130 if a second module is needed. Not a fan of 556uw unless it's utterly needed and there is no data override available.
Are you an authorized installer for DEI and Viper remote engine starters (not sure if you work for Best Buy or not xD)? I was wondering if the warranty is still valid even if you use the flash logic or idatalink.com (from this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2296379) in place of using the valet key. I want to get a Viper 5902 eventually but I'd rather they not use my valet key and I'd ALSO like to be able to use the factory fob as well (referencing http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...tml#post390360).

Do your installs still allow the factory fob to be used for lock, unlock, trunk, and panic?

Last edited by A W; 01-20-2012 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 01-20-2012, 08:23 PM   #596
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^ factory fobs still work. the wires are tapped onto, not cut.

as for the warranty part, if you live in the states, its against the law for a stealership to void your warranty based on installation of a remote starter/alarm on your car. if you can get your dealer to write it on paper you can actually sue them.

if you live in canada, they would have to prove, in a court of law, that the remote starter was the sole cause of a defect on the part that you needed changed under warranty, EVEN if you installed it yourself at home without any certification.
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:05 PM   #597
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I think he is asking if the warranty on the DEI/Viper remote start unit is still valid, not on the actual car.

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^ factory fobs still work. the wires are tapped onto, not cut.

as for the warranty part, if you live in the states, its against the law for a stealership to void your warranty based on installation of a remote starter/alarm on your car. if you can get your dealer to write it on paper you can actually sue them.

if you live in canada, they would have to prove, in a court of law, that the remote starter was the sole cause of a defect on the part that you needed changed under warranty, EVEN if you installed it yourself at home without any certification.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:28 PM   #598
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^ factory fobs still work. the wires are tapped onto, not cut.

as for the warranty part, if you live in the states, its against the law for a stealership to void your warranty based on installation of a remote starter/alarm on your car. if you can get your dealer to write it on paper you can actually sue them.

if you live in canada, they would have to prove, in a court of law, that the remote starter was the sole cause of a defect on the part that you needed changed under warranty, EVEN if you installed it yourself at home without any certification.
Actually I wasn't speaking about the vehicle's warranty since I already knew that. I'm interested in the aftermarket remote engine start warranty Viper/DEI offers since the install has to be done by an authorized installer for the warranty to be valid.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:43 PM   #599
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Originally Posted by A W

Are you an authorized installer for DEI and Viper remote engine starters (not sure if you work for Best Buy or not xD)? I was wondering if the warranty is still valid even if you use the flash logic or idatalink.com (from this thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2296379) in place of using the valet key. I want to get a Viper 5902 eventually but I'd rather they not use my valet key and I'd ALSO like to be able to use the factory fob as well (referencing http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...tml#post390360).

Do your installs still allow the factory fob to be used for lock, unlock, trunk, and panic?
I am currently an installer for Best Buy. Each part has it's own warranty, so regardless that were using a flash logic part with a DEI brain, it's all warrantied by the manufacturer. Plus we warranty our labor for the install. So if we screwed up we cover it, if the product is bad, we usually honor the manufacturers warranty. Just make sure if you get a DEI unit you do the product registration that comes in each box with each unit. DEI requires 2 things for a warranty. 1. Product is sold with labor, 2. Product is professionally installed. (MECP certified preferably) If you have more questions on DEI's warranty just call or e-mail there customer service. Sure they can get you squared away completely.

As far as using your valet key, that will depend on weather or not there is a data override for your vehicle. Recommend checking flash-it.com and xpresskits.com to see compatibility, if the list a data override for the coded key, your good to go. If they don't list a coded key, going to have to lose a key. Be careful too, I've known installers to say there's no data override because they find it easier to use a 556uw over a data module. Any installer though should be able to use our quote widget to see what all would be involved. May require further digging, it's not always perfect.

That 2nd link I'm pretty sure there referring to the keysense. That is fairly typical of most "import" vehicles, toyota, lexus, some fords, for the factory fobs to not work while the vehicle is running. I doubt the keysense will make a difference if the car is running for the factory fobs working. Lets lay this out, the factory fob will work after the install is done. Just it is questionable if it will work while the car is running. To test, start your car with the key, and then try using the remote. If it doesn't work, I'd recommend the 4103V. Keyless entry, panic, lock/unlock, trunk.

Also the post about dealers voiding warranties is known as the magnusm moss act, (i know the spelling is off, but you can find it on DEI's site as well) Esentially a dealer can't say that using an aftermarket remote start or security system over a compareable OEM part voids a warranty because you didn't use their part IIRC.
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:59 PM   #600
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As far as using your valet key, that will depend on weather or not there is a data override for your vehicle. Recommend checking flash-it.com and xpresskits.com to see compatibility, if the list a data override for the coded key, your good to go. If they don't list a coded key, going to have to lose a key. Be careful too, I've known installers to say there's no data override because they find it easier to use a 556uw over a data module. Any installer though should be able to use our quote widget to see what all would be involved. May require further digging, it's not always perfect.

That 2nd link I'm pretty sure there referring to the keysense. That is fairly typical of most "import" vehicles, toyota, lexus, some fords, for the factory fobs to not work while the vehicle is running. I doubt the keysense will make a difference if the car is running for the factory fobs working. Lets lay this out, the factory fob will work after the install is done. Just it is questionable if it will work while the car is running. To test, start your car with the key, and then try using the remote. If it doesn't work, I'd recommend the 4103V. Keyless entry, panic, lock/unlock, trunk.
Yes, thankfully my vehicle is listed as having all of the options offered from the http://www.flashlogic.com/index website. I suppose all that is left is to find an installer that will install the 5902 without consuming my valet key. I will also have to try and test out using the fob while the vehicle is started.

Thank you! I really appreciate the insight from you and everyone else from this thread.
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