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Old 12-08-2013, 05:28 PM   #676
jose_a_v31
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I already have an account, with the ability to flash the module. The true dilemma is, the module that was sent to me through the vendor with the flash for Chrysler vehicles. So with that said, I really need the usb "module" to program this thing...
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Old 12-08-2013, 08:28 PM   #677
hudsonvalleybugeye
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To the guys who do this for a living...This is a little off topic and a reach on a Subaru forum but. I just put an avital remote start in my wife's 06 nissan altima and for the life of me, I cannot find the lock and unlock wires. I tested with a test light, using the door lock/unlock switch in the drivers door. I am also looking for where to get the rear defrost wire from the vehicle. I used to professionally install mobile electronics about 10-12 years ago, so I'm a little out of the game. Thanks ahead of time
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Old 12-08-2013, 10:44 PM   #678
jose_a_v31
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I used this site to get some help with my wiring, http://www.commandocaralarms.com/.
Just go to the left side of the site, Free Vehicle Wiring, in red, and "Select your Make". It will tell you where the wires and some of the location of the modules. I will be installing my old clifford rsx 3.5 in my wife's Maxima shortly, I already used this just to layout the wiring from the manual. Enjoy the site.
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Old 12-09-2013, 06:11 AM   #679
hudsonvalleybugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jose_a_v31 View Post
I used this site to get some help with my wiring, http://www.commandocaralarms.com/. Just go to the left side of the site, Free Vehicle Wiring, in red, and "Select your Make". It will tell you where the wires and some of the location of the modules. I will be installing my old clifford rsx 3.5 in my wife's Maxima shortly, I already used this just to layout the wiring from the manual. Enjoy the site.
Thanks for the link. I used this site for the rest of the install, and everything tested great. But it seems every vague on the door locks. I think I need to test them with a multi meter. They may be negative at rest and pulsed negative to trigger. Oh well, for now the wife can carry around both remotes until the weather warms back up. I did the install in 20 degree temps. I guess that's my fault for buying it for her November 22 birthday.
Thanks again. And let me know what you find with the maxima.
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Old 12-09-2013, 01:04 PM   #680
klarowe
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Test lights can be your worst enemy (if not computer safe). I have seen many computer modules damaged because of test light use. You are much safer using a digital multi-meter.

Power Lock brown - BCM to right of fuse box, pin 45
Notes: These wires are only available on vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system. On vehicles with left AND right front power window anti-pinch system, use the factory alarm arm and disarm wires for door locks.

Power Unlock pink - BCM to right of fuse box, pin 46
Notes: These wires are only available on vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system. On vehicles with left AND right front power window anti-pinch system, use the factory alarm arm and disarm wires for door locks.

Factory Alarm Arm pink/blue - driver door module in door, pin 4
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

This wire will also lock the doors.

On vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system, this wire is found at the BCM to the right of the fuse box, pin 8.
Factory Alarm Disarm white/blue - driver door module in door, pin 5
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

Single pulse on this wire will disarm the factory alarm, and double pulse will unlock the doors.

On vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system, this wire is found at the BCM to the right of the fuse box, pin 7.

You MUST go into the driver's door for the factory arm and disarm wires (which you will most likely have to use). This car uses a molex plug iirc which can make it a bit of a pain to get wires through the door boot. You also have to test using the key in the door (not the switch).

I don't know what bypass you are using for the immobilizer, but you will save a lot of headache by picking up a combination bypass (ie iDatalink IDS DLSL CA2, which will come pre-programmed / flashed) which will take care of the lock, unlock (including driver priority unlock), trunk release, door trigger, trunk trigger, hood status (if equipped with factory hood pin), and data immobilizer bypass (no key required).
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Old 12-09-2013, 03:09 PM   #681
hudsonvalleybugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klarowe View Post
Test lights can be your worst enemy (if not computer safe). I have seen many computer modules damaged because of test light use. You are much safer using a digital multi-meter.

Power Lock brown - BCM to right of fuse box, pin 45
Notes: These wires are only available on vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system. On vehicles with left AND right front power window anti-pinch system, use the factory alarm arm and disarm wires for door locks.

Power Unlock pink - BCM to right of fuse box, pin 46
Notes: These wires are only available on vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system. On vehicles with left AND right front power window anti-pinch system, use the factory alarm arm and disarm wires for door locks.

Factory Alarm Arm pink/blue - driver door module in door, pin 4
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

This wire will also lock the doors.

On vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system, this wire is found at the BCM to the right of the fuse box, pin 8.
Factory Alarm Disarm white/blue - driver door module in door, pin 5
Notes: Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

Single pulse on this wire will disarm the factory alarm, and double pulse will unlock the doors.

On vehicles with left front only power window anti-pinch system, this wire is found at the BCM to the right of the fuse box, pin 7.

You MUST go into the driver's door for the factory arm and disarm wires (which you will most likely have to use). This car uses a molex plug iirc which can make it a bit of a pain to get wires through the door boot. You also have to test using the key in the door (not the switch).

I don't know what bypass you are using for the immobilizer, but you will save a lot of headache by picking up a combination bypass (ie iDatalink IDS DLSL CA2, which will come pre-programmed / flashed) which will take care of the lock, unlock (including driver priority unlock), trunk release, door trigger, trunk trigger, hood status (if equipped with factory hood pin), and data immobilizer bypass (no key required).
thanks for taking the time on this. I know this info came from the link, but it was helpful, putting the human understanding to it. So I can find the wires at the lock switch, but have to test them using the key in the door cylender and have to run lock/unlock wires into the door? I am using a computer safe test light made by snap on (the old trusty) but I do have a multi meter.
As for the bypass, I used the dei 556uw, I know...the "coffin box", but like I said, I'm a bit old school when it comes to this. I have done a little bit of research on the idatalink and as far as I can find, the only up side is not loosing a key to the install. but what do you mean when you say it will save me alot of headache? does it make the lock/unlock connections easier? I already have the trunk release and remote starter functions all done, I just have these sneaky door locks and the wife really wants the rear defrost hooked up as well. When I was installing, the rear defrost was not even in the picture. If I remember correctly, we did it on customers car using one of the pulsed auxiliary outputs on a unit and a relay to make the rear defrost turn on, but again, going back about 12 years.
Sorry if I got a little rambly, and thanks for your time.
I see we are both in NY, not to be a creep, but I looked up your shop page. lol
I'm around the poughkeepsie area
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Old 12-09-2013, 09:39 PM   #682
klarowe
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The data bypass will add a few benefits:
1) It is more reliable than the coffin bypasses since it does not rely on a 'perfect' wire wrap and you don't have to worry about anything shifting and causing failed starts.
2) You don't lose a key.
3) It is 1000000000x easier than having to go into the doors... and not that much more expensive.

Most remote starter systems now have a dedicated defrost output. Some even have a temperature sensor and programming options so the defrost will only come on under a certain temperature. The rear defrost SHOULD be RED (-) at the A/C Control unit. My wiring info does not say whether it is pulsed or latched though.
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:21 AM   #683
hudsonvalleybugeye
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Hey, thanks again.
I'm probably being a little slow here, but how does the datalink connect to the lock/unlock wires. Why would you not have to run into the door?
I didn't find any install guides for products relating to an 06 altima on idatalink's site. I really cannot find any information on this interface other than where to buy it.
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Old 12-10-2013, 12:52 PM   #684
klarowe
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The reason you have to go into the door for the locks is because that is the only place they are an actual + or - signal (- in this case). They can be interfaced inside the car at the BCM but it is a data signal. The data bypass modules essentially 'translate' the remote start's (-) output into the correct data signal for the car to understand. So all of the connections I listed above would only get connected between the starter and the bypass module (easily done during bench prep). Then just make the connections called out by the bypass module and you are done. It's a lot less intrusive to the vehicle since you are not making as many connections. It also helps save time.
Hopefully this link will work. From here just click "Download Guide"
http://idatalink.com/firmware/firmwa...ehicle_id/4409
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #685
hudsonvalleybugeye
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This is literally amazing. I know technology advances quickly, but damn! Well, you just sold me on this product. I now have some more home work to do.
A. I need to find a reliable place to purchase it since I am not an authorized dealer.
B. I will be researching more on the factory Altima system to see if there's an auxiliary output that will let me use the datalink as a starter using the factory key fob. ( then I can put the avital in my jeep tj and hook up the parking light trigger to my rock lights. ) Hey thanks again. You've been more than helpful.

Last edited by hudsonvalleybugeye; 12-10-2013 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:30 PM   #686
klarowe
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Unfortunately it's not new enough of a car to allow the idatalink to be a standalone remote start and using the factory remote is nice for a short period of time... then you realize how crappy the range is and most people end up abandoning the idea. Message me at klarowe@kkdgarage.com for the bypass...
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Old 12-11-2013, 07:05 AM   #687
hudsonvalleybugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klarowe View Post
Unfortunately it's not new enough of a car to allow the idatalink to be a standalone remote start and using the factory remote is nice for a short period of time... then you realize how crappy the range is and most people end up abandoning the idea. Message me at klarowe@kkdgarage.com for the bypass...
True, good point.
Thanks again for your help.
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Old 12-31-2013, 12:27 PM   #688
CowboyD Eng6ine
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Those of you who have done the install or are pros at it, I called a local shop about an install and they told me I would have to surrender a key to use the system and that the starter system (in the car I think) would need to be upgraded. Can anyone confirm and explain this?

I have a 13 Sedan WRX. Not sure why they would need to upgrade the system on a new car unless that may be dependent on the type of remote starter which is an Avital DEI.
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:41 PM   #689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyD Eng6ine View Post
Those of you who have done the install or are pros at it, I called a local shop about an install and they told me I would have to surrender a key to use the system and that the starter system (in the car I think) would need to be upgraded. Can anyone confirm and explain this?

I have a 13 Sedan WRX. Not sure why they would need to upgrade the system on a new car unless that may be dependent on the type of remote starter which is an Avital DEI.
Find a different shop, because it sounds like they don't know what they're doing. I have an Avital in my minivan and they only needed a key to clone it in the interface modules, then I got the key back. And no starter system upgrade. That sound like the next thing they were going to offer is to top off headlight fluid... lol
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Old 12-31-2013, 01:59 PM   #690
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Sadly I was going to go to them to install my subs and amp but don't think I will use them. I have a buddy looking into another place for a price.
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Old 12-31-2013, 02:15 PM   #691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bradrcr View Post
I pulled some wires again to double-check my safety wiring which did not seem to work. After fixing a couple shorts and bad diode placement on my part, it appears that running the brake signal to the + remote start shutdown wire on my Compustar will not work, but the green/black wire on the ECU both kills the running car and prevents remote start if the car is in gear, so I do have a working (and simple) safety built in finally. The brake kill is nice, but I'm far more concerned about thievery or starting in gear, and recommend any other Compustar owners look at that as well if they drive a manual.
Quick update on this- it turned out I had goofed and my connector to the brake pedal wiring was not fully pressed in I can confirm that the combined signal from the brake pedal and the gear signal on the ECU can both definitely kill a Compustar remote start.
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Old 05-21-2014, 05:19 PM   #692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amelnikov View Post
Find a different shop, because it sounds like they don't know what they're doing. I have an Avital in my minivan and they only needed a key to clone it in the interface modules, then I got the key back. And no starter system upgrade. That sound like the next thing they were going to offer is to top off headlight fluid... lol
Sounds like they were going to use an old bypass 556U style.
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Old 05-28-2014, 07:41 AM   #693
MeLLoWd_WRX
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Quick question for you Compustar installers out there. Got the Compustar 901 Alarm/AS today on my 08 Wrx sedan, this is my second one....had older model on my previous peanut Wrx. This time around when I lock, unlock, AS etc, all the lights flash in the back. Parking, turn signals and license plate lights. For some reason this drives me nuts. OCD? Maybe. Chime in, was this new system wired incorrectly? I don't wanna go complain if this is just how it is....but I would greatly prefer just the parking lights to flash. Either or, just not light up like a Xmas tree!
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Old 05-28-2014, 05:15 PM   #694
klarowe
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The factory alarm flashes the lights in addition to the compustar flashing the lights... which is why it's so odd. The choices are either to disconnect the parking lights (and not have them when it is running) or leave it like it is.
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Old 05-28-2014, 09:26 PM   #695
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Ok, that's all I needed to know. Thanks man.
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Old 05-28-2014, 11:41 PM   #696
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Anything for 15' sti with push button start yet?
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Old 09-24-2014, 04:00 PM   #697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueMan05 View Post
Anything for 15' sti with push button start yet?
I was looking around for the same and havent come across anything
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:18 AM   #698
candellstick91
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Got an Avital 4111 with 556u bypass for my 09 Legacy AT. Problem I'm having, my remote start brake shutdown wire isn't shutting down the system. Double checked wiring to be right. I can literally get in my car and drive away (no more than 12 minutes) with simply the RS fob. Anyone have any direction for me here? Thanks
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Old 11-11-2014, 05:34 PM   #699
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I have a viper 5901 with remote start whenever i lock the car it says my hood is opened, but its not. I manually hold down the pin and it still wont work. anyone have a solution for this? It only started to happen after i disconnect the battery.
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