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Old 01-03-2004, 11:45 PM   #76
SlaminSuby25RS
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awsome, i have had my remote start alarm i took off my truck sitting in my tool box for two years now because have been two scared to put it on my new car. I did it the hoocky on my truck with no fail safes (very scarey) now i can do it the right way thanks a lot
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Old 01-04-2004, 01:01 AM   #77
chrisdeaner
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I agree netz, I think the idea is good for anyone wanting an easy install with little/no wiring hassles. And, keeping the stock remote could appeal to some people. However I like the LCD systems and the range is unbeatable (short of a cell phone activated system of course). I'm sure this will be right up some people's alley though.
-chris
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Old 01-04-2004, 04:09 PM   #78
brunetmj
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Well I have been trying to remain silent about my concerns about the ralley start. Why? Because I think it is great that someone is making something specifically for the Subaru.
On the other hand it’s important to think about future needs. Sort of like when you bought your first computer. Remember when you said to yourself? I wish I had gotten that…

The advertisement concerns me:
Quote:
“Plug-n-Start” interconnect harness eliminates complicated wiring for a quick installation
To me that translates into No Felixbility. It will do what it is designed to do and nothing more. What if you want your rear defroster or AC working when the remote starter goes on?
The higher end stuff allows for a whole lot more flexibility and is really not that difficult.

Anyway great job in releasing this unit. Maybe it has potential. However be aware of your future needs by doing some research.
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Old 01-04-2004, 05:04 PM   #79
mikkyo
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Quote:
The advertisement concerns me:
quote:
“Plug-n-Start” interconnect harness eliminates complicated wiring for a quick installation

To me that translates into No Felixbility...
To me that translates to "Harness provided so you don't have to hack up your ignition/keyless connections".

Note that I haven't seen or installed one of these, but it sounds like a "install-friendly" harness is included.
Clearly that isn't a bad thing.

If someone wants to add defrost or some other feature to this system, or even most other alarm/starters, they can add a relay to the starter wire to trip the defrost switch or whatever.

So the Rallystart is easy to install, works with the factory remotes, and provides remote start. Simple.

It doesn't have 2-way paging, fancy lcd status remotes, or a full fledged alarm with lots of inputs and outputs.
Most aftermarket alarm/starters do not have a plug-and-play harness.

I can see bagging on it due to the price, since you are up near the range of good aftermarket alarms(though install will be a lot more), or simply saying that if you want to add features in the future, they would have to be custom electronic additions (although that seems a bit odd since if you want features, you might as well get them now, when your new alarm/starter is installed, ie buy an alarm/starter that has everything you want and have everything hooked up).
I can't see picking on it cause it is simple, adds one function to your factory system and has a harness.
Obviously, if you want more than just remote start, it isn't the system for you, but if all you want is remote start, it seems to be a fine and easy choice.
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Old 01-04-2004, 07:27 PM   #80
brunetmj
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I certainly understand the merits of having a remote with a harness. However adding some feature for any unit is not a simple matter of adding a relay. The electronics of the unit have to support such additions. A system such as the defroster requires a pulsed ground. Anyway I wasn’t suggesting that such a remote does not have merits. Plainly anyone can see the advantages. I was just trying to suggest that thoroughly researching your projects is important before deciding. If a person has no interest in research or if the ease of installation is more important than additional features than that is fine. Your choice.
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Old 01-04-2004, 08:05 PM   #81
netZ
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yes, the price of $200 is a little high for a standalone remote start
unit with detailed instructions and a plug-n-play harness. from
the images posted the owner still needs to wire up the additional
safety checks ie. hood, brake etc... from my previous installs they
don't appear to be 'plug-n-play'.

for $70 you can purchase the dei 561t which includes the rear
defroster output and for another $25+ you can buy a turbo timer
harness and some crimps to make it 'plug-n-play' and you can still
use your factory remote as well!

also, the dei's install manual can be easily found on dei's site here.
the wiring for the scoobies can be found in this forum as well.

the only thing i'd see is trying to locate the proper activation
circuit to activate the remote start. i suspect 1 of the 3 wires
located between the keyless entry system and the security
harness can be used or wiring it up to your door lock
wire and program it for 2 pulses for remote start activation via the
keyless entry remote.

another key feature to have is the 'anti-grind' feature which
prevents the starter motor from cranking when the owner
accidentally turns the key to 'start' while the vehicle is remote
started. and though not advised you can easily integrate this
system with a manual transmission.

just an alternative option.

netZ

Last edited by netZ; 01-09-2004 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:48 AM   #82
BlackRS
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An easier way to bypass the clutch is to go straight to the wire behind the clutch kill relay. This way you do not need to bypass the clutch at all. The starter wire is yellow pin 38 in the top relay next to your underdash fuse block.
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Old 03-17-2004, 07:12 PM   #83
Shibby1524
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could someone explain what "diode isolating" means?

also I'm looking to get a Clifford RS3.5 for my manual 04 WRX. You think I can do this myself? I have the clifford install manual, this thread, anything else I need?
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Old 03-17-2004, 07:16 PM   #84
netZ
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sup,

Diode isolating prevents the hood pin from sending a ground signal back through the Neutral Position wire. The Neutral Position Switch throws ground whenever the vehicle is in gear back to the ECU for idle control.

It's wise to diode isolate the actual Hood Pin from the NPS circuit. Otherwise the ECU will read a false ground signal. Check here for additional info regarding diodes.

Also here for 04 specific wiring information.

netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by Shibby1524
could someone explain what "diode isolating" means?

also I'm looking to get a Clifford RS3.5 for my manual 04 WRX. You think I can do this myself? I have the clifford install manual, this thread, anything else I need?
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Old 03-17-2004, 11:25 PM   #85
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IT CAN DRIVE A RELAY! MINE DOES. READ RELAYS FOR DUMMIES ON SCOOBYMODS.COM AND IT HAS A POST HOW TO DO THIS WITHA RELAY AND NOT USING THE HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, BUT USING THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT OF THE ALARM AND THE EBRAKE. I HAVE DONE THIS ALREADY. But I aslo am a DEI installer.
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Old 03-18-2004, 07:16 AM   #86
netZ
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Yes, but sometimes you don't have an extra relay to use... so this method works just as well.

It's suggested to install a quenching diode across the coils 85&86. This will prevent your nps switch and ecu from being fried once the magnetic field collapses from removing the power souce to the relay.

Depending on how you wired 85&86, cathode (ring side) of the diode is wired to the 12 volt source, anode side (non ring side) is wired to the other side.

So, if Pin86 receives +12volts, then the cathode side is wired to Pin 86. if Pin85 receives -12volts, then the anode side is wired to Pin 85.

Either way, you still need a diode!
netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by it8ezbngrn
IT CAN DRIVE A RELAY! MINE DOES. READ RELAYS FOR DUMMIES ON SCOOBYMODS.COM AND IT HAS A POST HOW TO DO THIS WITHA RELAY AND NOT USING THE HOOD PIN SWITCH INPUT, BUT USING THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH INPUT OF THE ALARM AND THE EBRAKE. I HAVE DONE THIS ALREADY. But I aslo am a DEI installer.

Last edited by netZ; 03-18-2004 at 07:34 AM.
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Old 03-18-2004, 03:07 PM   #87
Shibby1524
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one more question, best buy said i would need a "bypass" to make the clifford RS3.5 work w/ my manual 04 WRX. What exactly is a bypass? Do i need it?

also, is the what is the purpose of the Clifford G5 series compared to the Matrix series. Is on better? What features does the Avantguard 5 have or the RS3.5?
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Old 03-18-2004, 03:13 PM   #88
netZ
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The G5 Avantguard is Clifford's top of the line alarm system. You can check clifford.com and read the a5 specs. The Clifford RSX3.5, Viper 791xv, & Python 881xp are all the same systems but with some different badging and other minor mods.

Bypass? probably referring to the clutch. You just need to send a ground signal to the starter interlock relay to allow the starter motor to receive current when remote start is initiated.

netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by Shibby1524
one more question, best buy said i would need a "bypass" to make the clifford RS3.5 work w/ my manual 04 WRX. What exactly is a bypass? Do i need it?

also, is the what is the purpose of the Clifford G5 series compared to the Matrix series. Is on better? What features does the Avantguard 5 have or the RS3.5?
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Old 03-18-2004, 03:17 PM   #89
Shibby1524
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Quote:
Originally posted by netZ
The G5 Avantguard is Clifford's top of the line alarm system. You can check clifford.com and read the a5 specs. The Clifford RSX3.5, Viper 791xv, & Python 881xp are all the same systems but with some different badging and other minor mods.

Bypass? probably referring to the clutch. You just need to send a ground signal to the starter interlock relay to allow the starter motor to receive current when remote start is initiated.

netZ
About the bypass, the installed said it was something i had one of my spare keys in at all times? i guess he thought my keys has a transponder or something. but the WRX doesnt have that? i dunno, im confused on this still.

so why would someone buy the RS3.5 over the avantguard? for the 2-way capability? It seems that the avantguard 5 and RS3.5 are both the same system. Except the avantguard has more sensors, and the RS3.5 has 2-way capability. Is this correct? what would you put on your car?

Is the 2-way even worth it? Hows the range in the real world?

PS - thanks for helping me out man.
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Old 03-18-2004, 03:26 PM   #90
netZ
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if your installer has no idea of the electronics within your vehicle... would you want to have him install it? i wouldn't.

anyway the wrx doesn't have a transponder system. if you have the factory subaru security system you will either need to disconnect the subaru security harness or reconnect the starter wire loop.

otherwise the alarm is an easy install.

regarding the difference between A5 and a RSX3.5 is like night and day. The only RSX3.5 benefit is the 2 way lcd feature. Other than that the A5 has a lot more features and additional sensors such as tilt, prox & omni, blackjax, dual point immobilization, and other optional features such as the wireless immobilizer. you should go to clifford.com and take a look at the product chart closer to see the real difference.

Since I never park my vehicle where I can't see or hear it... I'd go with the RSX3.5. The 2 way lcd is pretty cool. It's really up to you.

netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by Shibby1524
About the bypass, the installed said it was something i had one of my spare keys in at all times? i guess he thought my keys has a transponder or something. but the WRX doesnt have that? i dunno, im confused on this still.

so why would someone buy the RS3.5 over the avantguard? for the 2-way capability? It seems that the avantguard 5 and RS3.5 are both the same system. Except the avantguard has more sensors, and the RS3.5 has 2-way capability. Is this correct? what would you put on your car?

Is the 2-way even worth it? Hows the range in the real world?

PS - thanks for helping me out man.
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:21 AM   #91
it8ezbngrn
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Well. Yes your right I should probably use a quenching diode. But the way mine is wired is that the relay only energizes if the car is in gear. The ebrake has to be up. If the car is not in gear the ground from the ebrake goes through the relay to the NSS of the DEI alarm. If the car is in gear the relay is energized and the ground is disconnected from alarm. If teh e brake is not up it will not start also.
Everyone should use the NNS wire and hook it up to the ebrake for added safety. In the early 90's we did remotestarts on manuals using pins switches, reed switches and magnetic switches. I once started my car in gear and it went a lil ways even with the ebrake up.
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Old 03-30-2004, 08:10 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally posted by it8ezbngrn
If the car is in gear the relay is energized and the ground is disconnected from alarm.
Sounds like that would run down your battery if you left the car in gear for an extended period of time.

I tried a standard 30 amp relay and the nss wouldn't drive it. Are you using something smaller?
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Old 03-30-2004, 09:09 PM   #93
netZ
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power drain won't happen if you use the 2nd ignition output to power this relay.

netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by quynce
Sounds like that would run down your battery if you left the car in gear for an extended period of time.

I tried a standard 30 amp relay and the nss wouldn't drive it. Are you using something smaller?
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Old 04-02-2004, 05:58 PM   #94
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True, but DEI units don't even consider starting unless they see ground at the nss, so you'd have to have constant power at the relay.
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Old 04-02-2004, 08:17 PM   #95
netZ
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hmm, there seems to be a bit of confusion here. there won't be any power drain if the vehicle is left in gear for an extended period of time with the wiring info given.

based on what the person stated, he/she would wire ign2 remote start output to pin 86, ebrake to pin 87a, nps to 85 and pin 30 to the remote start's nss input.

if the vehicle was left in gear the relay does nothing since it's not energized by the ign2 output. if remote start or valet take over mode occurs and the vehicle is in gear the relay will trip open and the nss will never see the ground from the ebrake thus disabling the remote start or valet take over mode.

hope this clears things up.

netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by quynce
True, but DEI units don't even consider starting unless they see ground at the nss, so you'd have to have constant power at the relay.
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Old 04-28-2004, 06:04 PM   #96
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I just want to give a shout out to Quynce for the wiring info. I've installed my DEI 554r Valet and it is working great. Thanks to NetZ too for all the great info!! You guys rock!

Out of curiousity, on the remote start relays, there is a pink wire that goes to the ignition and then there is a pink and white wire for the second ignition. Where exactly does that wire go?
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Old 04-28-2004, 10:39 PM   #97
netZ
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some vehicles have a 2nd ignition wire which requires powering for remote start and valet take over mode. for the impreza this isn't used.

netZ

Quote:
Originally posted by WRX617
I just want to give a shout out to Quynce for the wiring info. I've installed my DEI 554r Valet and it is working great. Thanks to NetZ too for all the great info!! You guys rock!

Out of curiousity, on the remote start relays, there is a pink wire that goes to the ignition and then there is a pink and white wire for the second ignition. Where exactly does that wire go?
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Old 07-27-2004, 12:13 PM   #98
krautdog
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Default HELP! -- What kind of diode?

Can anyone tell me specifically what kind of diode I need for the neutral indicator to hood pin switch connection? I am following Quynce's instructions but noone at Radio Shack or my local installation shops knows which one I need.
TIA - Mike
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Old 07-27-2004, 07:54 PM   #99
brunetmj
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1 ampere (1N4001/L).
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:21 PM   #100
krautdog
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Thanks brunetmj-
I guess I panicked. I am in the middle of my install and just want to get it done. I was able to go back over the thread (what I should have done in the first place) and find out that I needed a 1 amp diode, but there still was several kinds to choose from. I am on top of it now. Thank you very much...
-Mike
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