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Old 07-27-2004, 11:46 PM   #101
brunetmj
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Quote:
I am in the middle of my install and just want to get it done
Believe me I understand that. I was up to 11 last night installing a power window module to my alarm and when I finished it didnít work . I had to hot wire the wires to get my window up. In the morning I looked over the wiring and found I had used the up wire as a down wire. chezzzee. doesnít pay to rush...

Anyway be sure to have the striped side of the diode facing the ECU (away from the hood pin)
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Old 07-29-2004, 03:52 PM   #102
krautdog
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OK - got it, thanks.
Now I'm trying to wire in Quynce's relay for bypassing the clutch. The only thing is I don't seem to have a small guage (-)trigger starter wire with my unit (Scytek/Galaxy 5000RS-2W Plus), just the large guage (+) one. Is there another wire I could use, or another reference my alarm might use to identify this wire?

Also, is this relay a failsafe only, or is it necessary for operation?
Many Thanks in advance...

-Mike
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Old 07-29-2004, 05:55 PM   #103
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Well there are a couple of ways to bypass the clutch. One way is to use a wire that is a "ground when remote starting" to trigger the clutch switch bypass relay. I belive that the anti grind wire , if your alarm has one, can be used. I haven't read this entire thread but i belive it is the method to which you are referring. Hopefully you have an install manual which gives some kind of a descriptor of what the various wires do. If your not sure then you may have to test the remaining wires to find such a ground.
Try this thread to see if it helps:

http://www.dreamspeedonline.com/foru...wtopic.php?t=4

Quote:
Also, is this relay a failsafe only, or is it necessary for operation?
Many Thanks in advance
I am not sure what you meant by this? Which relay are you referring to?
If your asking if the alarm will still work if the remote starter doesn't work then the answer is yes. The alarm still works but you wont be able to remote start.
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Old 08-07-2004, 03:19 AM   #104
leocookie
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Thanks for the terrific information. I just finished installing a Viper 791XV into my 2004 WRX. Everything works great. However, I tried connecting the neutral safety wire to the light green wire on the parking brake switch yet the remote start still fires regardless of the position of the parking brake. I think regardless of the parking brake position, the neutral wire is always seeing ground. I also diode isolated the wire just in case. Has anyone else had this issue and/or found a resolution?


Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2004, 06:57 AM   #105
netZ
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yes, the parking brake will throw ground if it's even lifted slightly.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by leocookie
Thanks for the terrific information. I just finished installing a Viper 791XV into my 2004 WRX. Everything works great. However, I tried connecting the neutral safety wire to the light green wire on the parking brake switch yet the remote start still fires regardless of the position of the parking brake. I think regardless of the parking brake position, the neutral wire is always seeing ground. I also diode isolated the wire just in case. Has anyone else had this issue and/or found a resolution?


Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2004, 09:40 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leocookie
I think regardless of the parking brake position, the neutral wire is always seeing ground. I also diode isolated the wire just in case. Has anyone else had this issue and/or found a resolution?


Thanks.
Mine is working the same way... Not sure if I caused it or if it was that way all the time, but I ordered a new neutral position switch. Haven't installed it yet.
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Old 08-07-2004, 11:09 PM   #107
netZ
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hmm,

the viper remote start systems need to see ground in order for remote start and valet take over modes to occur. i typically recommend and install the black/white neutral safety sense of the viper system to the parking brake. this isn't 100% safe for manual transmissions, that's why the neutral position switch within the transmission is used to trigger the hood input of the remote start system.

when the vehicle is in gear the neutral position switch within the transmission will throw ground to the vehicle's ecu. you can wire inline with a diode to the remote start system's hood pin input. the remote start system will think the hood is open and will either turn off the remote start or prevent remote start from happening.

you can also wire the neutral position switch to a 12 volt relay to send ground to the viper's neutral safety sense input. wire as follows:

use the 2nd ignition output of the remote start system (this wire isn't used for the impreza since it only has 1 ignition wire off the ignition harness) to Pin 86

Wire the neutral position switch to Pin 85. It's advisable to install a quenching diode to prevent voltage feedback to either the ecu or the neutral position switch. A pre-wired starter kill will typically come with the diode installed on Pin 86 and Pin 85.

Parking brake wire to Pin 87a

Pin 30 to remote start systems neutral safety sense input (ie. black/white wire for dei remote start systems)

This will provide at least 2 levels of safety, the neutral position switch and the parking brake check. If the vehicle is in neutral and the parking brake isn't engaged the neutral safety sense will never see ground and thus preventing or disabling remote start/valet take over.

if the parking brake is engaged and the vehicle is in gear, the relay trips open and the neutral safety sense never see's ground.

Always use common sense anyway b/c the neutral position switch is mechanical and may not throw ground at all.

netZ
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Old 08-08-2004, 12:03 PM   #108
leocookie
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Thanks for the advice. It's appreciated!

Quote:
Originally Posted by netZ
hmm,

the viper remote start systems need to see ground in order for remote start and valet take over modes to occur. i typically recommend and install the black/white neutral safety sense of the viper system to the parking brake. this isn't 100% safe for manual transmissions, that's why the neutral position switch within the transmission is used to trigger the hood input of the remote start system.

when the vehicle is in gear the neutral position switch within the transmission will throw ground to the vehicle's ecu. you can wire inline with a diode to the remote start system's hood pin input. the remote start system will think the hood is open and will either turn off the remote start or prevent remote start from happening.

you can also wire the neutral position switch to a 12 volt relay to send ground to the viper's neutral safety sense input. wire as follows:

use the 2nd ignition output of the remote start system (this wire isn't used for the impreza since it only has 1 ignition wire off the ignition harness) to Pin 86

Wire the neutral position switch to Pin 85. It's advisable to install a quenching diode to prevent voltage feedback to either the ecu or the neutral position switch. A pre-wired starter kill will typically come with the diode installed on Pin 86 and Pin 85.

Parking brake wire to Pin 87a

Pin 30 to remote start systems neutral safety sense input (ie. black/white wire for dei remote start systems)

This will provide at least 2 levels of safety, the neutral position switch and the parking brake check. If the vehicle is in neutral and the parking brake isn't engaged the neutral safety sense will never see ground and thus preventing or disabling remote start/valet take over.

if the parking brake is engaged and the vehicle is in gear, the relay trips open and the neutral safety sense never see's ground.

Always use common sense anyway b/c the neutral position switch is mechanical and may not throw ground at all.

netZ
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Old 08-10-2004, 02:23 AM   #109
leocookie
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One of the quirks that I found with my install is that the "door open" light is on whenever the alarm is trying to keep the dome light on. Is there any way to wire the alarm so that this does not happen? I assume this is because I am tapping into the door trigger wire with my relay for dome light supervision.

Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:36 AM   #110
netZ
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not a quirk... works by design. unless you wire the dome light supervision relay to power the domelight itself.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by leocookie
One of the quirks that I found with my install is that the "door open" light is on whenever the alarm is trying to keep the dome light on. Is there any way to wire the alarm so that this does not happen? I assume this is because I am tapping into the door trigger wire with my relay for dome light supervision.

Thanks.
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Old 08-10-2004, 06:46 PM   #111
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I didn't read through all of the posts, so I don't know if this was already said, but I didn't use the tack wire on my installation. I installed a Viper 790, and I just programmed the brain to use voltage sense instead of the tack wire. After programming the crank time, everything worked fine. I am going to try that neutral wire thing though, I wasn't aware of that.
Jay
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:05 PM   #112
netZ
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though the voltage detect works, it's recommended to use the tach feature of the remote start sysystem. it will at least protect your vehicle against over or under rev.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by jagwoods
I didn't read through all of the posts, so I don't know if this was already said, but I didn't use the tack wire on my installation. I installed a Viper 790, and I just programmed the brain to use voltage sense instead of the tack wire. After programming the crank time, everything worked fine. I am going to try that neutral wire thing though, I wasn't aware of that.
Jay
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Old 10-07-2004, 04:24 AM   #113
Genner
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I have a 3.5 rsx installed in my 02.

AFter reading this whole thread, Is it necessary to use a relay to disengage the clutch for remote start?

Before my clutch was disengaged 100% of the time by tapping gound directly to the green/yellow wire.

but I recently changed it so that the clutch is connected to the blue/white wire (-) 200ma 2nd status/rear defogger-latched/pulsed wire from the remote start harness.
It works but I'm just wondering if it's ok to use it and do i need a diode?

Also how can you tell whether your NPS switch is bad or not?

And is there a way to also tell if the green tach wire that goes to the tachometer on the dash works or not? What readings should I be seeing if it works on the DMM?

Last edited by Genner; 10-07-2004 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 10-07-2004, 05:29 PM   #114
brunetmj
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Quote:
AFter reading this whole thread, Is it necessary to use a relay to disengage the clutch for remote start?
No but depends on the alarm. With a DEI the blue status wire can be wired directly to the Green/Yellow wire on the clutch safety switch. What this car wire is looking for is a ground "only during remote start". So any alarm wire that does that is fine. However if you intend to get the rear defroster working you may need that wire.
In regard to the tach wire behind the cluster all i can say it works fine for me with a DEI Python. The only way to tell is to use it but recommend a solder joint and not a T tap.
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Old 10-07-2004, 06:41 PM   #115
netZ
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you can diode isolate (using 2 diodes) the rear defroster output so it can trigger the clutch switch and the defroster switch.

using a multimeter set to AC, ground black probe and use red probe on tach wire and rev the engine. meter should increase according to engine speed.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by brunetmj
No but depends on the alarm. With a DEI the blue status wire can be wired directly to the Green/Yellow wire on the clutch safety switch. What this car wire is looking for is a ground "only during remote start". So any alarm wire that does that is fine. However if you intend to get the rear defroster working you may need that wire.
In regard to the tach wire behind the cluster all i can say it works fine for me with a DEI Python. The only way to tell is to use it but recommend a solder joint and not a T tap.
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:11 PM   #116
muk16
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Unhappy turbo timer w/remote start

Hey, just a general question I don't know if anyone can help me... I am planning on getting a remote starter(I have an automatic) installed with a turbo timer. The guy at the shop I'm goin to said he has a Viper alarm with these components. Is Viper garbage? And he asking 400 for parts and installation... Oh yeah and I had asked whether this alarm allowed for the windows to come up and down, he said he needed to add a special modular? Is this guy BSing me or what?
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:58 PM   #117
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A viper is a good alarm. It is a DEI product which are excellent products.The window module is a separate add on and is very time consuming to install. So labor cost is there. I installed the python with the power window module which is a similar alarm. The alarm itself goes for better than 200+ anyway if purchased retail. So this installers quote is in the ball park
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Old 10-07-2004, 09:29 PM   #118
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Cool still talkin about turbo timers

hey brunetmj, thanx for the response... appreciate it. i might just go for it now. About the turbo timer, is there any technicalities that can come up in the future from having a remote start/turbo timer installed. I know that having a turbo timer is better for the turbo and/or life of car. But I wanted to know if there are any problems, assuming everything is installed correctly and efficiently. Thanx
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:13 PM   #119
GetawayInBouldr
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I just had the Viper 791vx installed and I'm looking to change the length of time the turbo timer runs. The users guide tells me that its programmable, but I can't find any info on how to actually program it. Anyone know how to change it?
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Old 10-08-2004, 03:50 AM   #120
Genner
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phew what a relief to hear that I don't need a relay....thought I might have screwed up something. Ok so as long as I picked one of the - 200ma outputs I'm good.

Another thing, I'm planning on doing the additional relay for the nps and e-brake.

So ign2 is connected to pin 86 and NPS to pin 85. I need a diode across those tho pins, with the ring side(cathode) on the ign2 side. Now do I need another one for the nps wire? with the cathode side towards the ecu side?
And just making sure I can just tap into the ECU's NPS wire, no splicing right?

Last edited by Genner; 10-08-2004 at 03:56 AM.
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Old 10-08-2004, 07:34 AM   #121
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Quote:
I know that having a turbo timer is better for the turbo and/or life of car
A turbo timer is not necessary on a subaru.However the viper can be used as a turbo timer. Or to restate that, the viper has turbo timer capabilities.However the turbo timer harness is very useful. It allows several of the main ignition wires to be hacked without disturbing the stock wires.
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Old 10-12-2004, 07:03 PM   #122
Genner
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Ign2 of RSX 3.5 is connected to pin 86 and NPS to pin 85. I need a diode across those tho pins, with the ring side(cathode) on the ign2 side.

Do I still need another diode with ring side facing the ECU for the NPS wire that's going to pin 85?
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Old 10-12-2004, 07:10 PM   #123
netZ
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no, the extra diode on the nps wire is only used if you plan on tapping the alarm's hood pin input, though it doesn't hurt to have an extra one.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Genner
Ign2 of RSX 3.5 is connected to pin 86 and NPS to pin 85. I need a diode across those tho pins, with the ring side(cathode) on the ign2 side.

Do I still need another diode with ring side facing the ECU for the NPS wire that's going to pin 85?
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Old 10-12-2004, 07:51 PM   #124
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As stated in my original post, I was NOT able to drive a relay with the NSS, which is why I wired it to the hood pin. I believe there is a module made by PAC that can essentially 'amplify' a weak output. I think you told me about it netZ...

Also, assuming your NSS can drive a relay, a diode certainly wouldn't hurt. It would protect the switch in the event your wire shorted to ground somehow.
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Old 10-12-2004, 07:56 PM   #125
netZ
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q,

yeap, i've received numerous emails/pm's etc and some were able to use the NSS to drive a relay. perhaps it depends on the type of relay used. dei sells miniature relays, i believe they can be used instead of the typical 12volt bosch type relay.

if genner find success then i'm sure he'll post his results.

netz

Quote:
Originally Posted by quynce
As stated in my original post, I was NOT able to drive a relay with the NSS, which is why I wired it to the hood pin. I believe there is a module made by PAC that can essentially 'amplify' a weak output. I think you told me about it netZ...

Also, assuming your NSS can drive a relay, a diode certainly wouldn't hurt. It would protect the switch in the event your wire shorted to ground somehow.
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