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Old 01-02-2005, 12:59 AM   #201
tooocool49723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hayaboosted
Yeah I have searched and I am unable to find the match.
http://206.13.93.15/STi_Stuff/STi_Ma...y%20System.pdf
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Old 01-02-2005, 02:36 AM   #202
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Right I see the schematic's but I need to know where that is inside my car.. What it looks like and the location.
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Old 01-02-2005, 04:47 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netZ
this may not work with the dei alarm/remote start systems since the 'neutral safey sense' wire requires ground in order for remote start and/or valet take over mode to occur.

using your method will allow remote start to occur if the vehicle was in gear and the parking brake is engaged.

a low voltage trigger relay will detect the nps signal and if configured properly send 12 volts to the brake input. this method will allow the alarm/remote start system to properly monitor the hood pin input that would have been typically used in conjunction of the nps/ecu wire.

the best approach so far is wiring the transmission nps switch with diode to the hood pin and the ebrake wire to the neutral safety sense input of the dei system. yes, the hood isn't protected but the rest of the sensors should detect a break in (ie. vibrations etc).

netZ
Ditto!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 01-02-2005, 05:49 PM   #204
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yea i realized... too much end of year party stuff for me and not enough sleep ...

it works now, using a low voltage trigger of course
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Old 01-03-2005, 09:02 AM   #205
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I just noticed.....the very first post that lists everything....states the keyless module is to the right of the fusebox. the integrated module is to the right of the fuse box, and the keyless module is actually right above the fuse box.
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Old 01-03-2005, 08:37 PM   #206
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Oh well after 25 hours of work and trying to get it to work with the OEM alarm we gave up. Ditched the oem alarm and got a bad a$$ viper 771. I love it..
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Old 01-04-2005, 02:18 AM   #207
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does the tach sensing wire need to be isolated from the ecu?
what other wires would need to be isolated in a basic alarm/rs install besides the neutral position wire.
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Old 01-04-2005, 03:41 AM   #208
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no

depending on what the wires are being used for, a diode may be needed to prevent feedback to either circuit.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by tegnwrx
does the tach sensing wire need to be isolated from the ecu?
what other wires would need to be isolated in a basic alarm/rs install besides the neutral position wire.
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Old 01-04-2005, 09:02 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netZ
no

depending on what the wires are being used for, a diode may be needed to prevent feedback to either circuit.

netZ

well the basic wires in an alarm/rs:

12V Constant: Black/white -- ignition harness
Starter wire: Black/yellow -- ignition harness
Ignition wire: Black -- ignition harness
Accessory wire: Black/blue -- ignition harness
Door lock wire: red/white -- keyless module* (negative trigger)
Door unlock wire: yellow/red -- keyless module* (negative trigger)
Parking lights: Purple -- B280 pin 15
Door Trigger: yellow -- keyless module* (negative trigger)
Dome supervision: same as door trigger
Brake wire: white/black -- brake switch
Trunk trigger: yellow/red -- OEM alarm harness**
Neutral indicator: green/black -- ECU, pin A8***
Tachometer wire: used ignition coil 1, yellow, B136 pin 24
Clutch bypass wire: green/yellow, harness above clutch
horn output: B176 pin12, red/greed


I know the neutral wire needs to be isolated, any of the other ones?
none of the triggers are wired onto the same line, so they don't have to be isolated from each other, but do any of these other wires need to be isolated from the car/alarm?

Last edited by tegnwrx; 01-04-2005 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 01-06-2005, 05:51 PM   #210
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wish i knew about the neutral sensing thing about 2 weeks ago....would've avoided the accident then...sadness
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Old 01-07-2005, 12:49 AM   #211
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Good catch. I updated the first post with a note.
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Old 01-07-2005, 01:56 AM   #212
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Might have been mentioned already but I Just wanted people to know.....alot of the needed wires run to the keyless module as well as the integrated module. The alarm/RS can be wired to either the keyless module or integrated. keyless module can be left installed and could be used if you wanted to put your alarm in valet and just use the stock remote to give the dealer during servicing etc...and not worry about the car being remote started at all.

I have to double check the wiring diagrams in the service manual, but when i wired my alarm using wires from the keyless module, I think they were the same color as the ones quynce mentioned as being for the integrated module.
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Old 01-09-2005, 02:55 PM   #213
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ok i have a question about the shock sensor thing that coes with the 791 viper

where is teh best place to install it? and what should trigger it?

my tirgger test is shaking the car a lot and seeing if i'tll trigger, and that isn't working...

so far the only thing that works is the closing the car door, but thats not that useful...

anyhelp will be appreciated.

valmiki
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Old 01-09-2005, 02:59 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by netZ
a low voltage trigger relay will detect the nps signal and if configured properly send 12 volts to the brake input. this method will allow the alarm/remote start system to properly monitor the hood pin input that would have been typically used in conjunction of the nps/ecu wire.

the best approach so far is wiring the transmission nps switch with diode to the hood pin and the ebrake wire to the neutral safety sense input of the dei system. yes, the hood isn't protected but the rest of the sensors should detect a break in (ie. vibrations etc).

netZ
I'll second this, cause those low voltage tirgger devices aren't 100% trustworthy, cause twice i remote started my car while testing... scared the **** out of me.. i dind't hit anything but still scared the **** out of me

out with low voltage triggers, in with diode and hood pin switches and locks

valmiki
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:01 PM   #215
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I'd recommend attaching it to the steering column with zip ties.

I believe its a shock sensor, not movement. Tap a window with a key fairly hard as a test.

Mike
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:07 PM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjones
I'd recommend attaching it to the steering column with zip ties.

I believe its a shock sensor, not movement. Tap a window with a key fairly hard as a test.

Mike
the instructions explicitly said not to put it on the steering column
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:46 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valmiki
ok i have a question about the shock sensor thing that coes with the 791 viper

where is teh best place to install it? and what should trigger it?

my tirgger test is shaking the car a lot and seeing if i'tll trigger, and that isn't working...

so far the only thing that works is the closing the car door, but thats not that useful...

anyhelp will be appreciated.

valmiki
most installers mount it onto the steering column or onto harnessess in that driver side dash area, becuase it is the easiest place to put it. IMO that is not the best place to put it because it it makes that side of the car alot more sensitive then the pass doors, trunk etc.. I think the best place is where the stock alarm brain sits. I removed the stock alarm brain from it's bracket and installed the shock sensor there. That way it is more centered in the car and more equally detects impact around the whole car....plus it is more directly attached to the body of the car

to test it most people just bang on the pillar/molding surrounding the windows. I'm not sure about the viper, but most systems take a couple sec(30sec maybe) for the vibration sensor to activate after alarming the alarm

Last edited by tegnwrx; 01-09-2005 at 07:44 PM.
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:49 PM   #218
valmiki
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cool thanks, i'll look into it. the wire is like 15 inches long and i have my alarm brain behind the glvoe compartment... so i'm not sure if it'll reach. but the dei one has a lil led that lights up when its triggered, and it apparntly has power all the time, so i have just been using the light as a guide.


thanks again
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Old 01-09-2005, 03:52 PM   #219
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every alarm/remote start install i've done... (10+ years worth) i've always installed the dual stage shock sensor on any of the vehicle's main wire harnesses. (i'm no 'joe schmoe') the wire harness seems to pick up the most amount of vibrations if configured properly.

never use double sided tape which will reduce the sensors effectiveness unless specified by the manufacturer. clifford's omni sensor is one that requires proper mount on the vehicle's firewall to be effective.

if you're concerned about additional sensors, a good digital glass and/or digital tilt sensor will help add additional coverage to your vehicle.

netZ
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Old 01-09-2005, 04:38 PM   #220
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I agree large wire harnesses provide the best, most reliable location for shock sensors in terms of trigger consistency and proper sensitivity.
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:43 PM   #221
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there's nothing wrong with the main wire harness. I just feel mounting it in the center where the stock alarm brain was, provides a more equalized perimeter of sensitivity. When i mount the sensors on the wiring harnessess....it seems like the drivers door is always much more sensitive than the rest of the car. Maybe you want the drivers door to be the most sensitive. But for me i feel better with both sides and rear being equally sensitive to shock and having the motion sensor most sensitive to the front windows.
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Old 02-18-2005, 01:04 AM   #222
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This thread has been very helpful for in stalling my Viper 791xv on my 2003 WRX, but I have a few questions.

1. What wire on the alarm harness do I use to conenct the trunk sensor to (so it shows up on the lcd remote when it is open)?

2. I have put in a relay for the clutch switch bypass but the relay is buzzing constantly. What kind of relay do I need to put in there, what power rating?
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Old 02-18-2005, 06:10 AM   #223
netZ
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should be a blue wire off the main alarm harness. it's typically referred to as the instant trigger zone 1 or trunk trigger input

you don't need a relay for the clutch switch bypass. use the blue status output and diode isolate it to only send ground to the non-ground side of the clutch switch wire. this will unlock the starter interlock relay.

netZ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richie03
This thread has been very helpful for in stalling my Viper 791xv on my 2003 WRX, but I have a few questions.

1. What wire on the alarm harness do I use to conenct the trunk sensor to (so it shows up on the lcd remote when it is open)?

2. I have put in a relay for the clutch switch bypass but the relay is buzzing constantly. What kind of relay do I need to put in there, what power rating?
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Old 02-18-2005, 09:42 AM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tegnwrx
well the basic wires in an alarm/rs:

12V Constant: Black/white -- ignition harness
Starter wire: Black/yellow -- ignition harness
Ignition wire: Black -- ignition harness
Accessory wire: Black/blue -- ignition harness
Door lock wire: red/white -- keyless module* (negative trigger)
Door unlock wire: yellow/red -- keyless module* (negative trigger)
Parking lights: Purple -- B280 pin 15
Door Trigger: yellow -- keyless module* (negative trigger)
Dome supervision: same as door trigger
Brake wire: white/black -- brake switch
Trunk trigger: yellow/red -- OEM alarm harness**
Neutral indicator: green/black -- ECU, pin A8***
Tachometer wire: used ignition coil 1, yellow, B136 pin 24
Clutch bypass wire: green/yellow, harness above clutch
horn output: B176 pin12, red/greed


I know the neutral wire needs to be isolated, any of the other ones?
none of the triggers are wired onto the same line, so they don't have to be isolated from each other, but do any of these other wires need to be isolated from the car/alarm?
i guess the clutch bypass wire needs a diode too
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Old 02-20-2005, 01:25 PM   #225
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Thanks for the great info netZ, worked like a charm!
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