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Old 06-05-2001, 07:29 AM   #1
Damon
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Post rear brake setup?

here is a idea, and i really havnt heard much about the rear brakes too much.

i wanna get maybe a 4 pot brembo brake kit for the front. what i was thinking of doing was moving the current 2 pot front brakes off my RS to the back of the car. is that gonna mess up anything (like car balence under braking). the way i figure it, if ive got beefy brakes up front, i should also beef up the rears.

lemme know your opinions guys. thanks.
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Old 06-05-2001, 08:31 AM   #2
Subie Gal
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Exclamation

please do a search on this...
it's been covered over and over...

search in this forum...
for 'rear brakes'

it's not a good idea... your rear brake bias will be hosed and you'll end up braking stuff...

search, read, learn....

j. www.subiegal.com
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Old 06-05-2001, 09:19 AM   #3
p-car
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I think ISR sells 2 pot rear kit for about $600 - they are designed for the rear.
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Old 06-05-2001, 10:12 AM   #4
mav1c
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Yeah, like Subie Gal said, I wouldn't recommend it. Mostly because you will loose the parking brake, and I'm not sure if the mounting holes, spacing, etc will even work.

Do a search.....when it's working again.
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Old 06-05-2001, 10:27 AM   #5
NickSTi
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In his defense subie gal, the search feature isnt working, and we dont know when it will be back up. should his questions go on hold til then?

I wanted to search for a similar thing (when someone was trying to organize the same stoptech braking kit SPD is selling now) but oops no search function
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Old 06-05-2001, 10:47 AM   #6
Subie Gal
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Exclamation

i did answer it didnt i??

the rear brakes dont do much at all...

after 40k miles... the pads were like new when i changed them... even after track days, rallycross and racing....

if you place the 2 pots on the rear, your brake bias will be totally messed up... it's not suggested or advised that one do this...

it's just not needed either... especially if you have the 4 pots on the front...

j. www.subiegal.com

sorry bout the search engine thing.. i found out about that later....

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Old 06-05-2001, 11:07 AM   #7
Damon
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no offense taken anyone. yea, i woulda done a search, but it be broken. i do remember this topic being duscussed, but i dont remember what was said about it all. thanks for yer input guys (and gal).

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Old 06-05-2001, 11:16 AM   #8
Patrick Olsen
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I know of a few other people driving RSs who have seen severe rear pad wear at open track events. My 2.5GT used up about half a set of brand new rear OEM pads in 3 days at Watkins Glen, so they are doing some work back there. Plus, it wouldn't be hard at all to plumb a brake proportioning valve into the system so you could optimize those bigger rear brakes.

Actually, now that I think about it, doesn't Subaru use a criss-cross brake line setup? In other words, rather than having a front brake circuit and a rear brake circuit, it's set up so the front left and rear right are on one circuit, and the front right and rear left are on the other circuit. I vaguely recall reading that somewhere. Soooo, that might make the proportioning valve idea a bit more difficult. Does anyone know if I'm right?

Pat Olsen
'97 Legacy 2.5GT sedan
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Old 06-05-2001, 11:22 AM   #9
efoo
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My experience has been that my rear brakes do a lot more work than what most people would suspect out on a track - and I've got laser pyrometer data showing that my rear rotors were at least 100 degrees hotter than my fronts immediately after 30-minute sessions to back that up too. I have the STi 4-pots in front and stock RS 1-pots in the rear. After 3 days at Watkins Glen and repeated braking from 130+mph down to 70mph my rear brakes are metal to metal.

I will likely be moving to the STi 2-pot rears in the near future as well to try to at least partly alleviate this heat buildup. I don't think that installing the the RS front brakes on the rear is that great of an idea though - for one thing, the rear brakes are slightly different because they also have to deal with a parking brake mechanism, unless you are comfortable losing that.

-Edwin
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Old 06-06-2001, 02:52 PM   #10
wac
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I'm another Watkins Glen participant who used up the last half of my RS rear pads from only about 10 hours of track time. When the rear pads were gone, braking effectiveness dropped dramatically. It felt like at least a 25% loss of braking ability.

I remember seeing SteveS' rear pads having the same results at VIR. The worst part is, I have yet to see squealers (a.k.a. sensors) on the OEM rear pads, so you can't rely on a warning squeal - it's the real thing by the time you do hear it.

Edwin brings up a good point about the parking brake issue too.

-WaC
Wayne
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Old 06-06-2001, 04:00 PM   #11
mav1c
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I've heard that the Sti 2-Pot rears have a larger diameter parking brake drum, so you have to get the WHOLE parking brake mechanism with the rear rotors. Don't know if that's definitely true, but I've heard it a couple times.

What I did was get the vented rear rotors (stock are solid) that come from the WRX (or maybe the Legacy? Whatever it is, they work. I got them from SPD ), and the wider calipers. This setup with the vented rotors greatly reduces heat buildup, and lets you keep the parking brake. Along with the 4-Pot fronts, my car brakes SO much better.

My $.02

[This message has been edited by mav1c (edited June 06, 2001).]
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Old 06-07-2001, 08:03 AM   #12
efoo
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Installing the 2-pot rears requires that you get the whole hub assembly, as the parking brake drum is inside of it. My hubs, and calipers, are on their way over right now.

The vented Legacy rotors are also a very good option though, and I would say they are likely to be the best bang for the buck. I just like taking my car apart all the time, you know. But in all seriousness, if you are taking your car to the track and/or you have heavy modifications (i.e. turbo), I would consider the 2-pots. I doubt that Subaru specified the 2-pot rears on the STi cars just for kicks, so if your car is performing at close to STi levels or beyond, it is something to think about.

-Edwin
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Old 06-07-2001, 08:46 AM   #13
mav1c
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efoo,

Thanks for the 2-Pot rotor/hub/parking brake confirmation. Good advice too.

Yeah...I run a lot of track days, but no turbo, so the 4-Pots in front and vented in the rear is more than adequate.
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Old 06-07-2001, 11:10 AM   #14
efoo
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Actually, I got my 2-pot rears very cheap - what is one man's trash is another man's treasure, I suppose. The cost was comparable to a set of vented Legacy rotors.

But then, I'm currently a little paranoid about my brakes. I recently had an off-course incident at Watkins Glen that was at least partly due to brake fade (I'm sure the rest of it was brain fade - drove at 10/10ths just a bit too long and didn't leave any reserve), and I am very lucky that I got off with a slightly bent fender and hood (thank goodness for those styrofoam blocks!). Not too shabby for flying off the front straight at 115+mph wondering "hm. i'm not slowing down. uh oh!" ...

Having the turbo has really made me more cognizant of my brakes, as I was easily hitting 130+ on the back straight before the chicane at the Glen, well within 944 and 911 Turbo territory. And I don't have a set of "Big Red" brakes like they do! Maybe what I'm trying to say is that I really need Porsche brakes, or better yet, a Porsche... *sigh*

-Edwin
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Old 06-07-2001, 01:04 PM   #15
cj917
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Question

(slightly OT) has anyone who had swapped for subaru 4-pot front amd 2-pot rear looked into perhaps swapping the biasing valve as well (from a JDM WRX or a late-model GT)?

or a better way of asking, has anyone looked into the difference (if there is any) of the biasing valve between the RS and GC8 WRX/GT?
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Old 06-07-2001, 01:16 PM   #16
efoo
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mav1c - I use ATE Super Blue - I don't think you should avoid it though. I don't think it was the fluid boiling per say - I shouldn't have said brake fade. I should have more properly said that my pads glazed over. They were posititvely cooking when I got off the track and the rotors had that trademark milky film on top of them... toasty!

cj917, I've been doing some research on this in the wake of my little mishap.. I'll try to summarize it later and post it after I make sure I understand everything.

-Edwin

[ June 07, 2001: Message edited by: efoo ]
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Old 06-08-2001, 12:27 AM   #17
mav1c
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efoo,

What brake fluid are you using? I want to avoid it.
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Old 07-03-2001, 01:08 PM   #18
mhj
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I have rear drums that I want to convert to rear discs.

Can anyone tell me what parts I would need to do this (assuming I want to go with the Legacy vented rotor route)?

What does that all cost?
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Old 07-03-2001, 01:24 PM   #19
wac
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mhj: Search results from "rear disc brake" in Suspension, Brakes, Rims & Tires Forum:
http://www.i-club.com/forums/search....der=descending

-WaC
Wayne
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