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Old 05-05-2003, 08:31 AM   #1
willguidry
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Member#: 16388
Join Date: Mar 2002
Default MY00 GC8 power question

For the last week my car only is finding torque and power starting @ 4500 RPM's all the way to redline. This I do not want. And can't figure out WHY it's doing this.

I haven't changed anything to the engine or ECU.

I've got a COBB CAI and freeflow exhaust. The car USED to pull hard from 1k rpm to 3.4K then REALLY kick in from 3.5 to about 5k or to redline. What may be causing this? And will an ECU reset fix this?

Cheers

Will
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Old 05-05-2003, 09:44 AM   #2
DanzBorin
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Location: Houston - Back in the Alief
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2008 STi DGM (3rd
STI) prev 05 STi (white)

Default Re: MY00 GC8 power question

Quote:
Originally posted by willguidry
For the last week my car only is finding torque and power starting @ 4500 RPM's all the way to redline. This I do not want. And can't figure out WHY it's doing this.

I haven't changed anything to the engine or ECU.

I've got a COBB CAI and freeflow exhaust. The car USED to pull hard from 1k rpm to 3.4K then REALLY kick in from 3.5 to about 5k or to redline. What may be causing this? And will an ECU reset fix this?

Cheers

Will
The ECU reset will fix it temporarily... Have you tried the usual suspects? Fuel filter, spark plugs... Just a thought...
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:29 PM   #3
subarucyclist
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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2000 2.5 RS
Silverthorn

Default

My MY00 GC8 has done the same thing off and on ever since I got it, though it was never as consistent as what you're experiencing...it'd "float" from 1.5k to 4000 not really pulling, then bolt from 4 grand to 6 on 2 out of 5 hard take-off's.

I reset the ECU, did the single-point ground mod (I recommend this, search these forums for more info) and slapped a Cobb CAI on there, and still had the same symptoms

I've noticed that it's much more likely to do this when the car's fairly cold, like the first 20 minutes of driving, perhaps due to the car's anti-detonation safety sensors and programming or whatever. Apparently the Knock Sensors on Suby's are very sensitive.

Recently, I had my 60k service done, new timing belt, new plugs, new wires, and had the coil pack checked (it's fine) and it now only does what you're describing in the first 15 minutes of driving, when you really shouldn't get on it that hard anyway. The rest of the time, it rips.
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Old 05-05-2003, 12:57 PM   #4
willguidry
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Default

Well, I changed the plugs about 4K miles ago, I'm at 64K now. Did your timing belt need to be changed? If so what was the cost?

I heard they are a real ripper to replace yourself. I did do the grounded mod, although it seems as it all started around the time I did that.

*scratches head*

I did get a CEL last week, but that was reporting the fuel gauge wasn't working properly. *shrugs* Had it cleared, hasn't come back yet.

Guess I'll try the ECU reset.
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Old 05-05-2003, 02:01 PM   #5
subarucyclist
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2000 2.5 RS
Silverthorn

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I don't have a garage to even attempt the timing belt myself, unfortunately. It cost about $800 along with the rest of the factory 60k stuff...full fluid changes and all that. Did mine *need* to be replaced? It's hard to say, they recommend it at 60k, and if you don't and it happens to break (unlikely) the valves will hit the pistons and mess up the motor pretty bad. But I digress. My car ran better after all that, but I credit the new plugs/wires for that more than the belt.

With what you've already done, I'd be looking pretty hard at the fuel filter, plug wires and coil pack. Apparently the #3 terminal on the coil pack is known to go bad occasionally, and often, it takes the plug wire with it. I doubt it's the fuel filter but it doesn't hurt, and it'll eliminate another possibility.

I've also heard that the Knock Sensors can be a bit hyperactive on some GC8's, which kicks the timing down and makes the car feel sluggish. I've read elsewhere (scoobymods.com I think) about guys replacing the knock sensors, and doing some sort of mod that makes it not so overactive, but I haven't done that on mine.
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Old 05-06-2003, 10:08 AM   #6
ImprezaVA
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1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Default Timing Belt Replacement

Quote:
Did mine *need* to be replaced? It's hard to say, they recommend it at 60k, and if you don't and it happens to break (unlikely) the valves will hit the pistons and mess up the motor pretty bad.
The 2.2 single port engine is non-interference while the twin cam 2.5 is an interference engine.
For anyone who may want to tackle such a maintenace task here are some useful websites:

For 2.2 liter: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/...ReplaceW01.pdf

For 2.5 liter: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/...ReplaceF00.pdf

-Charles-
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Old 05-06-2003, 01:10 PM   #7
Supapooh
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by subarucyclist
It's hard to say, they recommend it at 60k, and if you don't and it happens to break (unlikely) the valves will hit the pistons and mess up the motor pretty bad. But I digress. My car ran better after all that, but I credit the new plugs/wires for that more than the belt.

I thought the motors were not interference??
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Old 05-06-2003, 02:11 PM   #8
kickin_81
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2004 Forester XT

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Maybe your O2 sensors are malfunctioning? When you go WOT, the ECU doesn't rely on all the sensors to save fuel so the car is only running with two or three sensors (open/closed loop. I forgot...). The O2 sensors would slowly lose function until you get a CEL. Just an idea.
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Old 05-06-2003, 02:35 PM   #9
ImprezaVA
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1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Default Interference?

Quote:
I thought the motors were not interference??
Supapooh: The 2.2L are non-interfering
The 2.5L twin cam is an interfering engine. So, it's critcal that you take care of your timing belt unless you like bent valves.

-Charles-
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