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Old 05-08-2003, 08:21 PM   #1
jackansi
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Default Coilover install/setup tips and tricks (help needed)

Anyone have any non-brand specific tips and tricks for coilovers? How about install tips for Cusco Zero-2's (or non-brand related)?

Just about to put in a set of Zero-2's and just fishing for tips before I end up learning them the hard way with a screw up
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Old 05-08-2003, 08:50 PM   #2
cnk
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Do the fronts at the same time. . same for the rear. Make sure you take out both front shocks before you install the coilovers. If you take 1 side out and install the coilover, the sway bar will put too much tension on the other side and you could risk tearing your CV boot. Get a breaker bar and use a 1/2" drive 6-pt 19mm socket for the lower bolts. Torque for the 3 strut top nuts is 14.2 ft-lbs, front lower bolts/nuts is 126 ft-lbs, rear lower bolts is 168 ft-lbs. Aside from that, take your time and have fun!!

Calvin
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:12 PM   #3
jackansi
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ok that is probably the single most informative reply I ever got, dead serious.

I was going to go around and do them one at a time.. Guess that would have been my first mistake.
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:21 PM   #4
cnk
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The most important thing is to do the fronts and rears together. Some tools I would reccommend you have are:

deep socket 12mm 6pt
torque wrench
jack
jack stands
14mm socket to remove the seat belt retention mechanism in the rear
WD-40 to spray the lower bolts down before trying to remove them
19mm wrench to hold the bolt/nut on the opposite side you're working on

You also don't have to reuse the metal cover plates in the rear. You'll have to eyeball the camber in the front. I would get an alignment soon after you install the coilovers. I waited 2 weeks, but I was riding on my stock tires and didn't really care. The only other thing I can think of is to install the top strut nuts first and torque them down while someone pushes up on them. Then bolt the bottom together. After you lower the car, re-torque the top nuts again to take up any slack. That's all I can think of for now. Good luck!! It should take a few hours. . .took me 4 hours in mid-December. . .you should be able to do it quicker in this nice warm weather we're having.

Calvin
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:37 PM   #5
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If this is the first time you are doing the suspension, get a 1/2 drive 19mm socket, the longest breaker bar you can find, and some pipe that will fit over the breaker bar.

They put those nuts on with an 800lb gorilla.

J
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Old 05-08-2003, 09:41 PM   #6
jackansi
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Already knew I would need alignment and made an appointment.

I will need a 19mm wrench and a smaller torque wrench, I just checked and mine only goes down to 25ft/lb.

Thanks so much for the pointers
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Old 05-08-2003, 10:06 PM   #7
ScreaminFast
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Can I use an impact gun on those lower bolts?
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Old 05-08-2003, 11:30 PM   #8
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You could probably use an impact gun to remove the lower bolts, but use a torque wrench to put them back on. Don't even bring an impact gun near the top strut nuts though as they are known to either break or snap the mounting stud in half if too much torque is used.

Calvin
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Old 05-09-2003, 01:02 AM   #9
Yungimoto
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Dude, my impact gun wouldn't even move those things. I had to put a jack handle on the end of my breaker bar, and it still took a few tries to break those things loose.
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Old 05-09-2003, 01:47 AM   #10
jackansi
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yungimoto
Dude, my impact gun wouldn't even move those things. I had to put a jack handle on the end of my breaker bar, and it still took a few tries to break those things loose.
Great... I may need to add a length of thick walled pipe to my shopping list

How long would be too long to leave WD40 on the bolts? Like if I sprayed them the night before and left it overnight to be worked on in the moring? Or is it worthless to leave it "soak in" more than a few minutes?
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Old 05-09-2003, 09:18 AM   #11
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Spraying them the night before would be fine. As for a breaker bar, I just went to Home Depot and got a 12" and 24" long 1/2" diameter pipe to fit over the handle of my socket wrench. That's worked like a charm every time.

Calvin
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:08 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by cnk
Spraying them the night before would be fine. As for a breaker bar, I just went to Home Depot and got a 12" and 24" long 1/2" diameter pipe to fit over the handle of my socket wrench. That's worked like a charm every time.

Calvin
Thats a pretty small 3/4" socket handle that a 1/2" ID pipe will fit over ????

I use a 4' length of 1" galvanized pipe over a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar(not ratchet) with a 19mm 6-point deep impact socket. This yields minimal resistance.

My 250lb impact wrench could NOT, I repeat NOT, budge my lower rear strut bolts.

I was totally ingnorant to the advice above tho of doing both rears and fronts at the same time. Can someone run down for me again why this is a bad thing or would tear my CV boots??? You mean on the opposite side from where I'M working while I have only one corner jacked up? I didnt even unbolt my rear swaybar or brakes (the second time at least) to swap my strut assemblies.

ss
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Old 05-09-2003, 10:16 AM   #13
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The pipe I used bould be 3/4". . .I don't remember. . .just make sure whatever diameter you use is large enough for your socket wrench. As for doing the fronts and rears at the same time, what happened in my case is we did the front left first. Then lowered it and did the front right. Due to the shorter length of the coilover on the left side, when I took the lower bolts off the front right, the suspension arm compressed past the lower portion of the stock shock and caused the bottom of the shock to wedge itself into the CV boot. We quickly jacked the entire front end up and loosened the top mounting nuts of the front left shock in order to free up enough wiggle room to safely remove the front right shock. Because of this, my advice is to do both fronts at the same time, i.e. jack up the car, put it on jack stands, remove both front shocks, and then install the coilovers.

Calvin
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Old 05-10-2003, 07:39 PM   #14
jackansi
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Wow those lower bolts are a REAL PITA!!

Took 6 hours...

But the Cusco's are on.. It definitely rides alot better (much stiffer). They aren't even settled in yet and I can't believe the difference. They are set to 3 all around. Any pointers on breaking these in/settling them?

Now I can't wait till I get the rear strut brace and sway bar in. The car is handling more like I think it should with just the coilovers though.
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Old 05-11-2003, 10:33 PM   #15
jackansi
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I think I'll be raising the car a 1/2" or 3/4".. maybe 1/2" front 3/4" rear?
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Old 05-14-2003, 09:29 PM   #16
jackansi
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Ok I got the rear wheel off to try and raise the height a bit and the lower nut won't go any where but the opposite way I want it to. The car was jacked up and all but I just couldn't get the lower nut to move below where it was.

I didn't loosen the lower bolts on the coilover where it attaches to the hub piece. Do I have to loosen those then attempt to raise the car? It doesn't make sense in a way, but in another way it does
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