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Old 05-15-2003, 04:13 PM   #1
fuzzy logik
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just wired up my lights like mulder recommended and now my headlight switch wont turn on the hids but when i drop my ebrake they come on. i took out the DRL module in the engine bay and it appears as if they still work although i had tested it when i removed it and they didnt work at the time yet now they do...all fuses are still good and relays still work..anybody have any idea whats going on?
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Old 05-15-2003, 04:16 PM   #2
Mulder
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You have to disconnect the DRL control module located next to the glovebox. Many threads about this here.
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Old 05-15-2003, 04:41 PM   #3
fuzzy logik
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but you see the thing is when my ebrake is up the lights wont work even if i switch them to on with the switch on the stalk...i dont get it...
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Old 05-15-2003, 04:45 PM   #4
fuzzy logik
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even my fogs wont work with the light switch on the stalk to the on position with the ebrake up but they work with the ebrake down, headlights on....weird...
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Old 05-15-2003, 05:04 PM   #5
fuzzy logik
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i disconnected the drl module in behind the glovebox and the headlights dont work at all now...the parking lights come on but no headlights, highbeams, or fogs...all of which do work when the module is hooked up and the ebrake is droppped...
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Old 05-15-2003, 10:30 PM   #6
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how did you wire them up? it could be a wiring problem, or check the fuse. it may have blown.
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Old 05-15-2003, 10:40 PM   #7
fuzzy logik
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i grounded the ballasts to the chassis and i hooked up the power to the common power (middle wire in the stock connector) i checked all the fuses but i dont get why all the lights are fully functional with the handbrake down but with them up not even my fogs work nor my high beams just my parking lights
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Old 05-15-2003, 10:50 PM   #8
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are you sure you disabled the right module behind the glovebox? it is the 10 pin connector, not the smaller blue or black one. why didn't you use the OEM ground. that would be a better ground. i tried the chassis also and found that it doesn't work as well as the OEM ground. my lights wouldn't even work. i was actually trying to get the high beam to work while the low beam was on, since i have HID's i don't want them to shut off when i turn on the high beam. it's bad to flicker the HID's, which i was also doing accidentally at times.
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Old 05-15-2003, 11:01 PM   #9
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When you spliced into the adapter for the common positive did you make it a three way splice? I mean did you snip the wire for the common positive and then reconnect them AND also include the positive for the ballast?
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Old 05-16-2003, 01:01 AM   #10
armand1
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Quote:
i took out the DRL module in the engine bay
What you took out in the engine bay is NOT the DRL module, but rather a resistor pack to reduce the voltage for the lights in DRL mode. If the DRL module behind the glove box is still in place, when you release the parking brake, it will still be switching circuits and power will make its way (using an abnormal route) to the lights. Make sure you have removed the DRL module behind the glovebox (it says DRL on it), then start troubleshooting your hid installation.
Remember that HIDs need a surge of power when they turn on; stock wiring may not be adequate for this (startup flicker is the symptom of this), so do as you mentioned and ground to chassis. If you can describe in more detail *every* connection you made in installing the HIDs, it would help us in netland to diagnose your problem.
For fuller DRL explanation, check out the FAQ thread in the forum sticky.
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Old 05-16-2003, 10:49 AM   #11
fuzzy logik
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during the first steps of the install i took out the module in the engine bay to disable the DRL's and then i went ahead and wired up the ballasts by grounding the ground wire to the chassis to keep the HID's from cutting off when switching on the high beams and i wired the power wire to the common power which was the middle wire of the stock connector the only wire that is left not connected to anything is the switched negative for the low beams while the highs are powered through the same common power and the ground is wired to the switched ground for the high beams. i disconnected the drl module behind the glovebox but the thing is when i do that the only lights that are operational are the parking lights. but with the connector connected and the parking brake down all lights are operational including the fogs which also dont work with the drl connector disconnected or with it connected with the ebrake up. im confused really
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Old 05-16-2003, 02:18 PM   #12
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there's a better way to have the high beams on with the low beams, as i have done. it doesn't work by just grounding the low beams to the chassis. you have to go to the switch, which is located by the DRL module. i'll get into that after your lights are properly working. i think that you should just wire everything direct. just use the OEM wiring for ground and power. it should work fine. also, for the DRL module, you have to disable the one on the side of the glove box. also, don't forget to change your fuses to 20 amp. don't worry about the OEM grounding, mine is running just fine, no flickering of any kind. let me know how it goes.
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:07 PM   #13
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While it may be possible to connect HIDs to the OEM switched grounds and have them work, it's not the best idea. The ground side of the factory headlight wiring is marginal even with stock wattage halogen bulbs, I have measured a voltage drop of approx. 1.5 volts on the ground side with 55W bulbs. That is a significant loss. With the high startup current requirement of HIDs the drop will be much higher and that is why HIDS connected to the factory grounds will sometimes flicker or fail to start. Also the combined surge current of both ballasts will be going through the headlight switch contacts. Direct grounding avoids the weak stock wiring completely and allows the HIDs to operate safely and reliably.
I have mine directly grounded and I always recommend the same to anyone installing HIDs.
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Old 05-16-2003, 08:52 PM   #14
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good point, and i totally agree with you. however, couldn't you just do a grounding modification? i can see your point though. i guess if my HID's ever start to flicker, i'll first try a grounding mod, if that doesn't work, i'll ground it to the chassis. thanks for the insight. so far, the OEM ground is working.
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Old 05-17-2003, 12:02 AM   #15
Mulder
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The best grounding modification is to directly ground the lights. You could install a relay, controlled by the switched ground, that would switch the ground to the lights directly from battery neg. or chassis, but why? It would accomplish the same thing as a direct ground but use more parts.
I suggest you change your ground before you have problems rather than waiting for them to happen. By then it may be too late and some damage may have been done, i.e. to the headlight switch.
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