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Old 05-27-2003, 01:25 AM   #1
AcquaCow
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Default Best bang for the buck...(aftermarket for 2.5rs)

So, I know I've been going the wrong way, but in 2 weeks my stereo will be complete and I need to start on other parts to make up for the added weight =P

What have 2.5rs owners found to give them the most bang for your buck? I've heard that CAI is a waste, leans you out and just makes it louder...

Perhaps CAI +Injectors/pump/rails and a chip to make up for the leaner burn?

Which is the most restrictive on the stock config? intake or exhaust? Which should be changed first?

I've heard lots about cobb cams working wonders...


I'm open to all ideas...but no turbo, I've heard lots of stories of RS-T's tearing the stock tranny to pieces...

-- AcquaCow
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Old 05-27-2003, 01:36 AM   #2
nySulli
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well, the CAI might be a waste on wrx's, it seems to help everyone out on the 2.5's, like 5-8 hp, cat backs are generally dyno'd at 6 whp gains for 2.25", and headers seem to add 10-15 whp given their equal length and the catback's been done, but stainless headers/cat run about 900 bucks, mrt sells a mild steel header back system for 700 and its dyno'd at +14 whp, but brullens setup has shown +21 whp

i've heard more then one person claim they got more power with a different muffler on the mrt headerback setup, so maybe thats your best bet
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Old 05-27-2003, 03:34 AM   #3
joefocker20
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Best bang for the buck would be the MRT headerback. You won't need to change your fuel rail or injectors anytime soon, RS's run terribly rich to begin with. Right now, I have a Ganzflow CAI, 1.19lb crank pulley, Borla Headers, trackpipe, Stromung Exhaust, a PROECM Chip, and an Exedy Clutch and 13lb flywheel on its way. I don't really know how much of a difference any of my more recent mods made due to a slipping clutch, but I'll be driving ALOT to break my new clutch in so I can find out how my car feels now.
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Old 05-27-2003, 09:09 AM   #4
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Start with a DIY intake.

3" brake duct tubing from the stock air box. Use some weatherstriping stuck a couple turns on the box inlet and the ducting goes on really tight (sealed). Run the tubing inside the fender openning, down to behind the vent below the pass side marker light. Contrary to poplular belief, water does not like to go up 2 feet and around corners to get to the stock airbox. I ran this for 2 years. If you make a fitting, you can scoop up the air and have a ram-air effect. The computer will learn and does not lean out the mixture. Total price was about $16.

2nd bang....free....remove weight bearing items that you don't need. 3 tie down hooks....2 front, 1 back are bolted on. Unless you plan on putting your car back on the ship, they're useless. Also, there's the famous bricks. One inside the glovebox cover, one under the engine transverse mount. Unbolt the 4 bolts where you'd put the jack and it drops out. Exhaust shielding, about 8 pounds of guards and un-needed brackets in the engine compartment, bolts and hooks for rear seat child tether straps (if you don't put in a child seat), front and rear brake backing plates. Blocking plates on the scoop and hood grills. If you feel you must have plates there, replace them with thin fiberglas or something else light. Stock ones are steel. There's enough stuff that can be removed for free. Go looking and you'll find them.

jack
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Old 05-27-2003, 01:20 PM   #5
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If you want the best bang for the buck, I'm going to suggest a CAI (in order of least expensive: PDM, Ganz, Cobb, Injen, Gravel Sports). There are many other beginning grade mods that you can do that are not really expensive. ...such as the Single Point Ground mod. Fuel modifications/upgrades are not really necessary under ~200 horsepower. Once you start, you probably won't stop.
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Old 05-27-2003, 02:04 PM   #6
Dr Ken
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I have to concur w/ CAI being an excellent initial "best bang/buck" mod. There is a significant increase of engine noise. This, I like. If you choose a CAI which utilizes the existing intake filter box... a low resistance air filter panel (e.g.: K&N,Amsoil,Perrin), really makes a difference. Also, the '00 model seem particularly prone to running rich... sooty tailpipe.
-Ken
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Old 05-27-2003, 11:57 PM   #7
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buy a used WRX rear sway bar for $40-$45. it will do wonders for your suspension.

edit oops messed the go fast part for the extra weight but hey the rear sway bar will help with the rolls from the added weight.

if you go for the intake tubing don't forget the K&N or amsoil filters. does wonders and still cost less than the CAI total package.
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Old 05-28-2003, 12:18 AM   #8
jasona
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My car runs stupid rich with an intake. So much it spits flames out my catless exhaust and works with an 80 shot of nitrous. Don't worry about running lean.

Best bang for the buck mod I ever bought was a whiteline adjustable rear sway bar. I know what you're thinking, it's just a bar, I must be exaggerating or placebo effect or something. I thought the same thing before I got mine. Honestly, it feels like a whole new car.
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:46 AM   #9
TheDonPerignon
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jack ffr1846
Start with a DIY intake.

3" brake duct tubing from the stock air box. Use some weatherstriping stuck a couple turns on the box inlet and the ducting goes on really tight (sealed). Run the tubing inside the fender openning, down to behind the vent below the pass side marker light. Contrary to poplular belief, water does not like to go up 2 feet and around corners to get to the stock airbox. I ran this for 2 years. If you make a fitting, you can scoop up the air and have a ram-air effect. The computer will learn and does not lean out the mixture. Total price was about $16.

2nd bang....free....remove weight bearing items that you don't need. 3 tie down hooks....2 front, 1 back are bolted on. Unless you plan on putting your car back on the ship, they're useless. Also, there's the famous bricks. One inside the glovebox cover, one under the engine transverse mount. Unbolt the 4 bolts where you'd put the jack and it drops out. Exhaust shielding, about 8 pounds of guards and un-needed brackets in the engine compartment, bolts and hooks for rear seat child tether straps (if you don't put in a child seat), front and rear brake backing plates. Blocking plates on the scoop and hood grills. If you feel you must have plates there, replace them with thin fiberglas or something else light. Stock ones are steel. There's enough stuff that can be removed for free. Go looking and you'll find them.

jack
Alot of these havent been mentioned in the weight reduction threads...someday i wish they would compile all pieces....
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:55 AM   #10
joefocker20
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I made the suggestion of having a weight reduction sticky, but I guess it isn't appealing.. I have a goal of making my car weigh around 2500lbs, and I believe its possible once I can get the balls to start stripping my car.. Right now, my only weight reduction mods so far are LW crank pulley, a 13lb flywheel on order, a 13lb battery, stripped trunk, tiedowns removed, glove box weight removed, and a few other minute items removed. Get some lw rims, inverted suspension, race seats, steering wheel, remove the airbag system, remove the AC, ditch the PS and get a manual quickrack, get rid of the rear seat and all hardware, replace bumper beams with JDM, replace hood and trunk with cf units w/o a spoiler, remove the sound deadening, remove the exhaust shielding, and find other odds and ends and I think removing 400lbs wouldn't be too hard.. It would require alot of labor though..
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Old 05-28-2003, 08:03 PM   #11
AcquaCow
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no kidding on the glovebox "brick" thing weighed 2x as much as what I had in the compartment...Now for under the engine? the transverse mount? what?

I also pulled the rear hook and vent panels in the engine, combined with the stock air assembly its a bit of weight, still able to lift with one hand though...perhaps 5lbs max...

I'll get the new sub box cut and keep it light weight, put holes in the new floor and such...

Can anyone point me to the weight reduction thread?

-- AcquaCow
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Old 05-28-2003, 08:05 PM   #12
joefocker20
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Search for my name and weight reduction and there was a pretty lengthy thread way back..
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Old 05-29-2003, 01:52 PM   #13
dingo dave
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I live in texas and i've been told that CAIs don't offer much in the summer time in hot climates. True?

Also, what does it mean when a car "runs rich"?
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Old 05-29-2003, 05:31 PM   #14
nySulli
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running rich is relating to the air/fuel ratio, rich is to much gas, lean is to little
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Old 05-29-2003, 06:12 PM   #15
DanzBorin
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Quote:
Originally posted by dingo dave
I live in texas and i've been told that CAIs don't offer much in the summer time in hot climates. True?
nah... still works...
Quote:
Also, what does it mean when a car "runs rich"?
yeah rich means too much fuel... more fuel = less power (not less than no intake...) less fuel = detonation = bad... you gotta find the sweet spot known as stoich...
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Old 05-29-2003, 07:45 PM   #16
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#1 underdrive
#2 cobb CAI .. or ganz flow
#3 brand X cat back
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Old 05-29-2003, 08:32 PM   #17
DoinkMobb
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Quote:
Originally posted by AcquaCow

Can anyone point me to the weight reduction thread?

-- AcquaCow
Do a search on "weight reduction" and you'll find a couple of good threads.

There's free weight reduction - taking stuff out of your car that you don't need.
...and there's dollar intensive weight reduction - carbon fiber or aluminum hoods/trunk lids, featherweight rims, racing seats.

A home made intake, pullies and weight reduction will make a noticeable difference, for little $$$ output.
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Old 05-29-2003, 09:11 PM   #18
AcquaCow
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DIY CAI indeed, however I'm having problems tracking down 2-3" tubing...I'm about ready to get some PVC, rubber joints and some hose clamps....sanford & son style....

-- Cow
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Old 05-30-2003, 11:27 AM   #19
doobie
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Any muffler shop can bend a 3" piece of aluminized steel for an intake. Get a 3" to 2.5" adapter at any performance shop, paint you pipe and your in business for about $20.- Just as good as a ganzflow for $100.- less. And it does look good.

I just did mine.
Steve
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Old 05-30-2003, 11:35 AM   #20
joefocker20
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If you would have taken the time to search, you would know that PVC shouldn't be used underhood..
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Old 05-30-2003, 12:20 PM   #21
Farfrumwork
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Default tubing...

Go to Jegs.com for mandrel bent tubing. They have all different diameters, bends, and lengths - fairly cheap.

I made my intake with 3" OD AL tubing I bought from a local machine shop, but mine is all straight. I kept my "torque box" but have the 3" tubing from fender- to MAF - to inside the "torque box" (ie. full 3" cold air intake).
After driving I can open my hood and the intake tubing is COLD!!

made a very noticeable difference in power - it does have a dip around 4500rpm - but that's the tradeoff for paying only $60 for a true 3" CAI. pulls hard up on top!

maybe I'll get a "real" intake someday, but I think my money would be best spent elsewhere right now.... clutch/flywheel, cams, bumper beams, lightweight wheels, Cobb reflash (if it ever comes out)

-chad
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