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Old 05-28-2003, 12:40 AM   #1
teknisa
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Last edited by teknisa; 05-29-2003 at 12:20 AM.
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:00 AM   #2
rkkwan
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Okay... I assume this is for real.

I use two film cameras, a Canon Elan (1st generation, bought around 1993 or 94), and a Fuji 28-56 Super DL P&S.

Because of the slowness of the zoom lenses I use (a Tamron 28-200, a Canon 28-80 and a Canon 22-55 all with maximum aperture 3.5-4), I usually use consumer grade Fuji 400 color negatives. And with the even slower P&S, I use Fuji's 800 in that one. From the reports I've read, the Fuji's grain and color are slightly better than Kodak's.

Anyways, my question is this. Occassionally, I'll use the 800 film in the Elan, but I find that I can often get noticeable grain in the 4"x6" prints I get back from the drugstore; where I usually don't see any when the film is taken from the P&S. I usually use the Elan's "matrix" metering, and am generally somewhat attentive with my shooting, so I shouldn't be underexposing. I'd assume I'd get underexposure more often with the P&S, not the Elan.

Any idea why the grain with the Elan/800film combination? Pictures are grainless when I use the Fuji 400 or slower film.

-Ray
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:04 AM   #3
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Are there any kind of optical filters available for cameras like the Canon S30?

Also, if i sent you a link to my photo webpage could you tell me what you think of my shots. Like what to work on, quality of shots, etc.


Thanks
~Evan
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:15 AM   #4
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Yeah, this is for real.

Here's the thing. It has nothing to do with your camera. Film is made from little grains of silver, real silver. In black and white film it's all silver, with color film it's silver and dye. The 'faster' the film ie 1600 800 and 400 are grainy. The 'slower' films ie 200 160 100 64 and 50 are fine grain. The more you increase the size of the print from the negative the more grain you'll see.

Here's a tip. Use fast film when taking action shots, or in low lighting. Fast film is made to be used in all conditions. It's 'fast' because even in low lighting conditions you can still set a faster shutter speed. Use slow film when taking portraits, landscape or flower shots. It's slow because you usually have to make a long exposure.

Fuji and Kodak set their own color scale. Kodak is a bit warmer and fuji is a bit cooler. I use both brands. Although I've found kodak to superimpose their colors a tad bit. Fuji is more on the dot.

The film you buy at like target or walmart is not exeptional quality though. fuji/ kodak professional films offer you a wide varity of film and uses for film. I'd look at both brand's websites for more info on their professional film. It's not all that expensive and Is great for being creative with.

I have a Canon rebel 2000, Canon Elan 7E, and a Canon 10D.

I also suggest finding a professional lab in your area. They usually don't charge more than what a one hour would but professional labs are held to the highest standerds and your prints will be a lot nicer because trained lab tech people know what they are doing. In other words, they wont mess up anything.

Hope this helps.

Marisa
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:17 AM   #5
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If you go to get nekked pics developed, will they look @ them? Will they save them and put them on the net and make $$$?
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:19 AM   #6
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Subarud: There are all sorts of filters for cameras. www.tiffen.com is a good place to look.

You can get color correction filters, fx filters, b&w filters, and magnifycation filters.

Go ahead and send the link I'd be happy to take a look and offer some advice.

Marisa
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by chri3
If you go to get nekked pics developed, will they look @ them? Will they save them and put them on the net and make $$$?
IIRC I believe there is a law against developing naked pictures at a public place like that. I went to Cancun for spring break and got a bunch of boob shots, and on one roll of film only like 15 of the 27 exposures were given to me. None of the boob shots were there either.

Which really sucked considering one was a really hot chick I got with and now I have no proof of it other then to my 2 friends that were there. Oh well.
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:24 AM   #8
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I've done this. Technicaly they have to give you the pics back. Nude shots are legal as long as there is no penetration or highly sexual acts. If your worried about this take your film to a professional lab and ask them if they develop Nude photos. Most of them do becuase professional photographers take nude pictures.

It's illigal to keep photographs with out the permission of the photographer. The photographer owns all the rights to every picture they've taken. If anyone has done this, you have the right to sue their a$$es off.

Marisa
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Old 05-28-2003, 01:56 AM   #9
Brady
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lamest thread EVAR!

*cough*attentionwhore*cough*
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Old 05-28-2003, 02:42 AM   #10
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Personally, I think it's a great thread. Much more interesting and informative than your typical off topic thread. I've got an old Olympus OM-10 that I'm replacing all of the seals on. It'll be my first SLR camera.

-Brian
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Old 05-28-2003, 03:29 AM   #11
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i need zoom lens for my ef lens camera...i see 75mm-200mm 90-200mm blah blah blah and so on. and sometimes the price difference is pretty big. i just want a decent zoom lens to get some good shots of wildlife and what not for my beg. photo class. maybe point me to a ebay auction or two u would recommend?
like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...gory=4687&rd=1 is that good? =/ i dunno this stuff at all
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Old 05-28-2003, 03:34 AM   #12
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Ok I have a mamiya 645 and when I compair the pics to my nikon F4HP they dont have the brite colors that the nikon has I think this may be the film but I dont know .


the mamiya shoots 120 compaired to the 35 mm nikon but I think the mamiya should look better I'am using kodak porta 400vc film but the 35mm stuff is just brighter looking is there better film in 120 than what I have been using?
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Old 05-28-2003, 04:18 AM   #13
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How do you set your camera so that your pics have extra contrast on a cloudy/hazy day?
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Old 05-28-2003, 04:56 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by codemunky
How do you set your camera so that your pics have extra contrast on a cloudy/hazy day?
You can use various filters. Red or Yellow filters if you shoot B&W,
or perhaps a polarizer for color film. Pushing color film works
well also.

Matt
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Old 05-28-2003, 04:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by bohica
Ok I have a mamiya 645 and when I compair the pics to my nikon F4HP they dont have the brite colors that the nikon has I think this may be the film but I dont know .


the mamiya shoots 120 compaired to the 35 mm nikon but I think the mamiya should look better I'am using kodak porta 400vc film but the 35mm stuff is just brighter looking is there better film in 120 than what I have been using?
Fuji Provia is nice, contrasty film.
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Old 05-28-2003, 05:03 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by dRu888
i need zoom lens for my ef lens camera...i see 75mm-200mm 90-200mm blah blah blah and so on. and sometimes the price difference is pretty big. i just want a decent zoom lens to get some good shots of wildlife and what not for my beg. photo class. maybe point me to a ebay auction or two u would recommend?
like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...gory=4687&rd=1 is that good? =/ i dunno this stuff at all

It's a bit costly but the Canon 70-200mm F4 L lens is superb.
Extremely sharp and contrasty and ezcellent Bokeh. I've seen
these around $400.

A decent cheap lens I've tried is the Canon 28-200, pretty sharp
and also the 28-200 zooms from Tamron and Sigma.

Matt
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Old 05-28-2003, 06:34 AM   #17
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Quote:
the mamiya shoots 120 compaired to the 35 mm nikon but I think the mamiya should look better I'am using kodak porta 400vc film but the 35mm stuff is just brighter looking is there better film in 120 than what I have been using?
I'm not a photographer. I can take great pictures tho'...
Perhaps the difference between the 120 and the 135 is the equipment that the 135 is printed on compared to the 120.
I've been in the industry for 30 years. Today's modern printing equipment is setup for the majority of film types used nationwide which is 135 and APS film. Unfortunately the 120 film suffers due to it not being popular as amateur film. Use a professional lab as was recomended by Marisa for your 120 film. This may help bring out the best of the wide film. As for 135, the best results would be to find a place that offers "KODAK Perfect Touch". The software in the printing machines work wonders for your images.
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Old 05-28-2003, 08:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by bjlee
lamest thread EVAR!

*cough*attentionwhore*cough*
Grow up you douche.
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Old 05-28-2003, 09:35 AM   #19
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If you think you really need a highspeed film, I would suggest re-evaluating your subjects and conditions you normally shoot under before investing more in films to experiment with. There's a common misunderstanding that a high speed film like and 800-1600 is necessary for high speed action all the time. And under certain conditions it's very true, but not often and not always. If you want to minimize grain, you may be able to experiment with a faster lens/ie: using a more shallow depth of field, in combination with your typical consumer grade films. OR if you find a higher speed film is still needed to give you the exposure lattitude, I would suggest looking at Kodak and Fuji Professional film stock.

I personally use Fuji NPZ 800/ NPH400, and Kodak Portra 800 VC, and Portra 400UC, and find the grains in these films are excellent and can be compared to some of the slowest consumer grade films. In contrast of opinion I don't think fast films are the answer for general purpose. I get the best results when matching the film speed for the shooting situation I run into. For daylight I go with FUJI NPS 160 exclusively...great stuff. And IF I need a film that could be called general purpose...since you can't always know what conditions you'll run into... I would go NO HIGHER that 400. It's unlikely you'll randomly run into a 800-1600 speed film situation without having some inkling into the event before hand. Between the 400 speed films the Fuji NPH 400 and Kodak Portra 400UC are the best I have found...with the Kodak 400UC being more contrasty and punchy with color. Where the Fuji's tend to me more accurate. I tend to like exaggerated colors though...

A Pro lab, also may help, but in my quest for great processing, I have found that a WOLF or Ritz camera armed with a Fuji Frontier machine, and some lab technicians that know what they're doing a nd fresh chemistry are hard pressed to be outdone by my local and lauded pro labs costing 2x the price. Although I would still take my enlargements, etc. to the pro labs for quality assurance.

as for the film and it's prices... try these guys They are priced right, have more than what their site lists...and coincidentally are based about five miles from my house so I can vouch for them being legit. I found them through some fellow professional sources so with my few buying experiences and based on word of mouth, they seem to be about the cheapest place I can find.

hope my ramble helps anyone

edit: my typing skills have much suck

Last edited by scottjua; 05-28-2003 at 09:41 AM.
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by bohica
Ok I have a mamiya 645 and when I compair the pics to my nikon F4HP they dont have the brite colors that the nikon has I think this may be the film but I dont know .


the mamiya shoots 120 compaired to the 35 mm nikon but I think the mamiya should look better I'am using kodak porta 400vc film but the 35mm stuff is just brighter looking is there better film in 120 than what I have been using?
There really shouldn't be a differnce between the 2.
All I can think if is that you might be underexposing in your mamiya. All cameras work differntly, I'd bracket (take 3 pics total, one underexposed, one normal, one overexposed) your pictures by 1/2 a stop and see what happens. The one that is overexposed in the mamiya might compare with the one in your nikon.

Marisa
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:20 AM   #21
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Continuing off of scottjua's ramble......

You also have to remember that the larger the negative the more you can 'blow' up a photo. When you take a 35mm neg and make it into a 11x14 print your going to see the grain. That's because the 35mm neg is so small a surface to work with, you can only fit so many grains of silver on to it. 120 or 220 film is better in a sence because it's bigger. Bigger neg, bigger the prints can be.

I do archie photography. I have a Calumet 400series 4x5 wide angle camera. The film is 4x5 inches and I use Fuji NPS 160. But thinking of upgrading to NPZ 800 because when doing interiors I've found that I need something a bit faster so I'm not sitting there with 30 sec exposeures all day long.

Fuji makes a wonderful transparency film (reversal or positive or slide film) called Velvia. It has an ISO of 50. You get vivid colors all around. especialy in the reds and greens. The thing about transparency film is that it's a positive so your exposures have to be dead on. transparency film is not at all forgiving when it comes to exposure.

Marisa
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:28 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by codemunky
How do you set your camera so that your pics have extra contrast on a cloudy/hazy day?
First off if you have an slr you should be using a haze/skylight filter. Polorizers work in a sence that they enhance your color but they also darken in the sky. If you have a circular polorizer you can reduce glare off of a shiny surface.

I often run into this problem myself with having dull pictures on overcast or hazy days. I've found that my camera typicaly meters a bit underexposed on those days. I suggest overexposing by as much as a full f/stop. If all else fails bracket your pictures and then compare. If you like working in photoshop, scan in your pic and fix it up there.

Marisa
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:34 AM   #23
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In general, I prefer doing wide-angle photography (band photos, arm's length, etc.) with a prime 24mm lense. I've been contemplating upgrading from my crappy Sony digicam to a Canon EOS 10D. My question is regarding the focal length multiplier (which is 1.6 on the 10D) and whether if I should just skip the lower-end digital cameras for now since to get the same framing I'm going to get much more distortion. I don't want to spring for 1D which has a 1.3 multiplier, and certainly not the DS. I know these cameras are greta for sports photography which is primarily zoom based - should I just forget it for now since I use wide angle primarily?
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:44 AM   #24
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I have a 10D, excelent camera. Although I would have liked to buy the 1D, but not with the price tag. Honestly I haven't done much wide angle on my 35mm's. 28mm and that's it. Distortion wise I'm not sure how much diff it will make between the 10D and the 1D.

What about those tilt lenses? I've never used one, yet, but I do know they eliminate distortion to a degree.

Marisa

try www.canoneos.com look at the tilt shift lenses.....
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Old 05-28-2003, 10:51 AM   #25
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This is digital camera question:

Why does my bright red MR2 look like pink? I have a Nikon 995.
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