Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday September 21, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Subaru Conversions

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-07-2003, 09:36 PM   #1
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default L->WRX (Brakes) Complete; Results and Lots of Pics

Sorry, I typed the title wrong. It is BRAKES, not the entire conversion ( yet).

After 6 months of storing miscellaneous WRX brake parts in my basement, I only recently got the motive and money to get the remaining parts. What I ended up with was some used, but close to new front and rear rotors, calipers, and pads from a rolled WRX ( thanks Eby); rear awd hubs/knuckles from a wrecked WRX ( thanks f20ceg), and brand new Goodridge stainless lines for an RS ( thanks Subie Gal).



Last night I got the car up on jackstands and hit every possible nut and bolt with PB Blaster. This morning I set out early to tackle this beast.



My car is a '96, but amazingly, not one nut gave me any hassles. The axle nuts in the rear required "The Pipe" to remove. "The Pipe" is this 3 foot long, 1" inner diameter, 3/16" steel pipe that goes hand in hand with any auto work on the older cars. Conversely, the fronts just required a rachet ( don't ask why I loosened them). The rest of the bolts were fairly straightforward except for the one bolt I forgot about til everything was slopping around. Note to self, replace those mushy trailing arm bushings ASAP! Those axle splines were both stuck within the hub. With the axle nut partially threaded on and the socket over the nut, I was able to stike it til the splines let loose. The other side was not so cooperative. After 3 hours of sweating, frantically searching for an axle puller, and baseball bat swinging "The Pipe", I was finally able to knock the axle out. My speculation is that there is a large amount of heat coming from those drums because everything was very tight, stubborn, and dry in the rear. The front end was cakewalk.

Parking brake cables, on the other hand, were nut fun at all to work on. I had to tear apart the back half of the console to get to the e-brake, take out the passenger seat, the back seat, and pull up half of the back carpet. I managed to take most of the parking brake cables out of the car without doing this, but reassembly was much easier with everything out of the way. I adjusted it where I thought it felt good, and it does hold on a slope, but the e-brake is light and pulls ALL the way back. Still need to tighten it, but it looks like the WRX parking brake cables will work great.

Reassembling the front and rear was very straightforward. Everything bolted right into place; amazingly, I even had the right stainless lines. One comment on reassembly: the e-clips supplied with the Goodridge lines will not work right out of the box. They are seperated too much and will just slip right off the fittings. I took a pair of needlenose pliers and pinched the clip closed a little bit. Nice and reliable fit. The lines fit well and look great. Hopefully they will perform.

Apparantly, there was a massive demand for Super Blue brake fluid because Cobb Tuning and Modern Garage were both completely out of it. For the meantime ( and maybe longer) I chose to run Valvoline SuperSyn Dot 4 brake fluid. As a last ditch attempt, I also tried to hunt down some speed bleeders. Modern Garage carries the, but unfortunately, they are now closing much earlier than I had anticipated and they had already left for the evening.

Bleeding the brakes went uneventfully. I followed the method in the FSM: RF, LR, LF, RR. I bled each wheel until no more bubbles appeared, went through the whole cycle, then went back through to each wheel and bleeding it all again. The old fluid was flushed out of the system and the bubbles seemed to be gone.



I was manning the bleeder valves while bleeding so I didn't feel the pedal until I jumped in for the test drive. The car will stop, but the pedal goes deep before they really start to grab. Since these were seasoned pads and rotors, I figured I wouldn't have to bed them or anything so I did one big brake test. Standing on the brake pedal slowed the car down fast, but there was no more force that could be applied to lock up the system. I've got something wrong in the system somewhere. legacy777 has had the idea that some of the older master cylinders may not be up to the fluid demands of these brake upgrades. I'm going to get the brakes bled and if the deep pedal is still not resolved I may have to look that way.

With the car off, I can pump the brakes and it will firm up. It doesn't feel like there is any air in the lines and it boggles my mind that the bleed hose was coming up so clean while bleeding. I'm going to find some speed bleeders either through Modern Garage or Oakos and rebleed the system next weekend. Until then, I won't know what is wrong.

Here are a couple comparison pics. Unfortunately, I didn't notice how dark they were until I was taking them off my camera. You can still get the idea though.

Front L:

Front WRX:

Rear L:

Rear WRX:


Comments? Suggestions?
-Jon
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by stimpy; 06-08-2003 at 02:42 AM.
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2003, 10:35 PM   #2
linsavy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 11620
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Ontario
Vehicle:
1997 GF4-STiV3 clone

Default

Stimpy,
Thanks for the pic. This is the first time I have looked at a rear hubs with the rotor off.
I wonder if your issue is due to the large wrx front calipers. Legacy777 has a bias issue as I am sure you have read about. I had no such issue when I put RS front calipers on my L. Pedal feel is great.
I will be doing the rear swap in July likely. Sucks that I will have to get the thing aligned again. Hopefully it won't cost as much.

Perhaps you could try RS calipers instead of WRX? There are a bunch of guys with L's who have RS front and rears with no issues whatsoever.
linsavy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2003, 02:35 AM   #3
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default

I have corrected some incorrect information in my initial post and have done such. I was hasty in my post and ready for a shower

To add on to my initial impressions, I have found that the pedal is indeed very firm with the car off. There doesn't seem to be much sponginess in the action. With the car on, however, it still feels less than confidence inspiring. The pedal goes down deep before it starts grabbing hard. It may be possible to lock up the tires, but it requires more than just standing on the brakes. If I am having troubles getting to lockup with my RE92's, I have my doubts it could happen with stickier tires. Sadly, it really does feel like the master cylinder cannot move enough fluid to activate the brakes quickly. I will have to do some reading to find out how possible this is. It may just be my mind perceiving it as such since it has been a topic of discussion between legacy777 and I.

I've also got an unusual pulsing that I can feel in the pedal when I first apply the brakes. I can feel it as I press down on the pedal, but before enough fluid has been pushed to actuate the brakes. I have no clue what it is as it disappears once the brakes start to engage.

For the 2002's, the RS calipers are the exact same as the WRX calipers. However, I do not have access to the '98-01 FSM's to know if those front calipers are the same or not. I want to say that they are the same, just the caliper bracket and rotor size is altered. I know the rear brakes are the same in both rotor size and caliper specs.

-Jon
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 03:24 AM   #4
tbd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 15322
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: so cal
Vehicle:
1995 gf wagon
Blue Green Metallic 340

Default how many miles on the new brake setup?

are the wrx brakes using the same pads as stock? new or used. if they're not bedded in yet, you won't lock up even re92's. but if the pads are used the bed in process is even tougher since the pads can be mixed up and mismatched from caliper to caliper, necesitating more time to even out the grooves and ridges. i was disapponted w/ the feel and stopping power the first day after, and since i would need an extended run in time for the newly positioned pads, i just figured, why not spend $50 for a new set of pads and run those in instead. the tires lock up now. but the pedal feel is something i'm still loking to improve also.

about the pulsing vibration: if the pads were the ones included, and not new, did you notice if the pads wore evenly? one side thicker than the other? one end of the pad thicker? i don't know much about brake wear dynamics, but when i started over w/ new pads, it took a nother variable out of the equation for me. good luck. tony (i sound like a brake pad salesman)

btw: axxis ultimates from stoptech are amazing. great vendor too.
tbd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 09:45 AM   #5
Diz
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 874
Join Date: Feb 2000
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado Mountains
Vehicle:
2003 Honda S2000
2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5

Default

Jon -

I'm fairly certain the master cylinder is not the problem. My setup:

Car: 93 L wagon
Front brakes: WRX calipers/rotors, Axxis pads, SS lines
rear brakes: Legacy knuckles, RS calipers/rotors, Axxis pads, SS lines

I can get the tires to lock quite easily. Good luck finding the problem.

Nice car, BTW. I want to get mine painted white after I get the body work done. Cheers.
Diz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 11:31 AM   #6
Jaxx
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Boise,Idaho,USA
Vehicle:
The 93 Imp W/EJ20K
flat black

Default

two thoughts

the travel on my 93 with wrx calipers is less than it was with the L brake setup i have zero proublems locking the brakes. mine is a little differnt in that i am using rs brackets and rotors w/wrx calipers in the front and '90 legacy rear calipers in the rear..i have wrx rotors but not the brackets yet

thought 2: get rid of those stock pads they are garbage

thought 3: wonder if the 93 master cylander is differnt than the later models .. it is a single stage vs dual stage?
Jaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 04:52 PM   #7
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default

Here goes...

The pads and rotors have an unknown amount of miles on them. I bought them used from Eby but I neglected to get the mileage. With that said, however, they appear to be used and bedded ( properly? maybe not). The pads themselves were not mixed up side to side. All pads were still contained within the calipers. I am noticing some grooves on some of the rotors which indicates that not all of the pad is touching. I didn't notice if the pads were worn evenly side to side, but they appeared relatively ungrooved. There was some brake fluid that had leaked out of the calipers but it did not look like any got on the pads themselves. Even if it did, that would not explain the excessive pedal travel.

Looks like lots of votes for Axxis Ultimates. Might have to look into that.

Diz, now the interesting thing about the master cylinder is there are now 3 verified people who have done this very swap without problems and every one of them has a 1993 Impreza. tbd and I both have newer cars and we are both experiencing long pedal travel. Jaxx is going to look up the master cylinder diameter on the '93 to see if it is any different from my '96.

Lastly, I believe my car also has a single stage booster. I can't find this information in the FSM however. The 2002 FSM has all this information but for some odd reason the 1996 FSM has big holes in some of the brake specifications.

-Jon
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 05:33 PM   #8
tbd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 15322
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: so cal
Vehicle:
1995 gf wagon
Blue Green Metallic 340

Default here's mikes advice on this

off of spd:
http://www.spdusa.com/soft.htm

he makes mention of possible wheel bearing vibration pushing the pads out? i hope not. if its just air in the lines, i can just bleed and bleed again. but if its a bearing, you may have to have a new one pressed in or go to four pistons, so that the pistons adjust to the disc movement. dunno how you'd go about ID'ing the offending bearin though. good luck. tony
tbd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 07:25 PM   #9
AKGC8
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 1305
Join Date: Apr 2000
Chapter/Region: AKIC
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza

Default

Hey, they car the brakes came off of had 5k miles on it.

Did you bleed the master cylinder? If fluid in the master cylinder drained out during the install, then you'll need to bleed it too. It's done the same as the brakes, but you're loosening the fittings on the MC until fluid comes out then retightening.
AKGC8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 07:55 PM   #10
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default

Thanks Eby.

I had never heard of bleeding the master cylinder before. When I've changed master cylinders in the past, my dad never mentioned that. During the install, the reservoir did completely drain out so I could very well have air up in there. Strangely, I would have thought that you could bleed the air out of the MC without specifically opening the screws at the MC. I guess it is possible that, due to the shape or some bend in the MC, an air bubble could get stuck at a point higher than the lines and be unable to bleed out at the caliper. The 2002 FSM specifically mentions the procedure for bleeding the master cylinder. However, the 1996 FSM does not and that is what I looked at for the bleeding procedure.

The 2002 FSM also gives a procedure for testing brake pedal travel. I don't know how it would port over to my case since I have lower power assist on the brakes as well as a different sized MC. They say to apply 110lbs of force and then measure the distance moved from the steering wheel to the pedal. It should be around 3.75" inches for the WRX.

Also, I was looking at my rotors at lunch today and I noticed that my front left and my right rear rotor appear to have some sort of film on them. The other two rotors squeek when I push my finger across it but the other two do not. My finger was left completely black after I rubbed it across the left front disk. So what is the process for getting ready of some sort of grease on my discs? I sprayed them down with brake cleaner before I installed them but there was no way to tell if they were squeeky clean because of the rust. Do I just need to throw away the now greasy pads, respray the rotors, and then install new pads?

-Jon
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 09:04 PM   #11
Legacy777
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy & 97 OBS
AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap

Default

Jon,

I'm goin to answer some of your questions here, and some in my post.

First, the issue where some people don't seem to have the long pedal travel.

Honestly......I think this is mostly due to different people's opinion/judgement of what is excessive pedal travel. Unless you had the same individual testing all the cars, the comment about same setups having or not having excessive pedal travel is not really valid.

Also, it depends on what the previous setup was. There's too many variables to truly compare the setups.

Let's look at one problem at a time, which from what you're saying, it's the excessive pedal travel.

First thing I would do is rebleed the brakes. If you've driven the car for about a week, that should be good. The reason I say this is because there's almost always stubborn air if you've had the brake system open for a while. I had this when I first painted my calipers. You may want to bleed the brakes with the car running. This will give you a higher brake pressure, which may help move any trapped air out. Also, when you do bleed the brakes. Pump the pedal slowly about 10 times and then open the bleeder valve. Do this same procedure 2 or 3 times per wheel.

Also.....when the pedal finally does engage.....is it firm, or does it feel sorta soft?

If it's firm....there's probably little to no air in the system.

You will most likely need a larger bore MC. What size is your current one? Look on the side, it should say.

Are you having issues with bias? excessive nose dive, front lock up? Or is the main issue right now the pedal travel?

if there's anything I missed, let me know.

Check the other post too.
Legacy777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 09:07 PM   #12
Legacy777
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy & 97 OBS
AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap

Default

Re the MC bleeding.

When I swapped the other one on that leaked.....I tried to bleed the MC....it caused more problems. So I just tightened everything up, and bled the system a couple times.
Legacy777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 09:52 PM   #13
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default

With the car off, you can pump the pedal and it will stay very firm way up high as I would expect. With the car on but not moving the pedal will push way down; also as I would expect since it is hard to tell where brake engagement is. When driving, though, I feel like it is taking more pedal distance than previously needed to achieve the same stopping power. However, when it is braking, it does not feel spongey; just low.

The previous setups on the cars I know of are all going from drums in the back and single pots in the front up to two-pots in the front and single pots in the rear. Who knows what differences there may be in piston sizes etc between the original setups. I'll try to just focus just on what I perceive as a proper feeling setup.

My original concern was it didn't feel like it had quite the stopping power it should. I associated this with the fact that I had to push the pedal quite a ways down and simply figured I was running out of pedal before achieving the forces needed to overcome the torque on the rotor and lock the wheel. I still think that the pedal travel is a concern to me and I would like to address it, however I think there may be more to this than just that. I think I have some sort of oily film on my left front rotor and my right rear rotor. I haven't decided how I would like to address this, but I'm pretty sure that is taking a lot away from my stopping power.

I do have a lot of nose dive right now, but I am also on the stock L suspension with 75k miles. I'll dig into that later once I get the system running to where I think it should be. I was unable to lock up the wheels at lower speeds, but at 45mph I did get my right front wheel to lock up and nothing else. Not quite a balanced lockup but, again, I don't think it is operating fully. I have not looked at brake bias yet as my brakes are not exactly confidence inspiring yet.

MC size is 15/16" or .9375" ( .94" as quoted in the FSM).

-Jon
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2003, 10:17 PM   #14
Hawk296
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 14555
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Troy, MI
Vehicle:
1995 Impreza L
Baja

Default

my 95 L has ABS and 4 wheel discs stock. I did put the twin piston RS brakes up front however. I also added Goodridge Stainless Steel lines. the biggests difference i felt was when I added the brake lines. It was wierd it felt as though the pedal traveled further before the brakes would start to engage but when they did it was more instant and hard, where as before youde push and the effort would gradually build and get more spongy the harder you pushed. with the lines it felt like nothing, nothing, nothing then they would start to bite. I like the new feel better, just thought it was interesting. I beleive my 95 has a single stage booster. I really like the effort required, feel and stopping power of this combo. good luck.
Hawk296 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 08:35 AM   #15
Legacy777
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy & 97 OBS
AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap

Default

Jon,

We want to look at the pedal issue with the car on. Mainly, I want to know how the pedal feels when the car is on and you press on the brakes. I know the pedal is going to travel further, but when you reach the "bottom" How does it feel down there? Is it hard, or is it sort of spongy?

You can't equate pedal travel with stopping power. You've changed the entire system, and volume demands are going to be higher, therefor more pedal is going to be needed.

Bottom line, you need a new/larger MC. Since you don't abs, there's only one solution out there, and that's the SVX MC I posted about.

I have not done my swap yet. I am sort of debating whether or not to try and put a single booster in or not, plus I still need to do some more calcs/investigating on the prop valve issue.

Also.....for your rotors. You need to clean them up. Get rid of any oily film. You're probably best off just getting new rotors all the way around, dumping the stock pads, and for the time being get a set of ultimates for front and rear. That'd probably run you $350 ballpark, which may be out of your price range right now. But that'd be the best thing to do. If you can't do that, clean up the current rotors real good.
Legacy777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 08:37 AM   #16
Legacy777
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy & 97 OBS
AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Hawk296
my 95 L has ABS and 4 wheel discs stock. I did put the twin piston RS brakes up front however. I also added Goodridge Stainless Steel lines. the biggests difference i felt was when I added the brake lines. It was wierd it felt as though the pedal traveled further before the brakes would start to engage but when they did it was more instant and hard, where as before youde push and the effort would gradually build and get more spongy the harder you pushed. with the lines it felt like nothing, nothing, nothing then they would start to bite. I like the new feel better, just thought it was interesting. I beleive my 95 has a single stage booster. I really like the effort required, feel and stopping power of this combo. good luck.
Did you add the SS lines and the RS brakes at the same time, or separately?

If you did them together. The extra pedal travel was caused by the caliper swap. The firmer bottom end of that pedal travel was caused by the SS lines.

This was pretty much the case when I did my swaps.
Legacy777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 01:43 PM   #17
Jaxx
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Boise,Idaho,USA
Vehicle:
The 93 Imp W/EJ20K
flat black

Default

intersting observations
ill add mine

my swap
wrx calipers RS brackets and RS rotors up front and 90 legacy rear calipers with RS rotors in back... old L lines in front, used RS lines in the rear

brake power comes on sooner and is more abrupt than with the old L brakes and is more power full and faster than the brakes in my GDA in one word "abrupt"..

stimpy do you have a scan of the GDA MC bleeding procedure .. that might be the proublem i have been having..

still need to look up the size of the 93 MC
-j
Jaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 02:41 PM   #18
Hawk296
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 14555
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Troy, MI
Vehicle:
1995 Impreza L
Baja

Default

I added the twin piston calipers first, drove on the stock brake lines for a few thousand miles and then added the goodridge lines. the travel and feel was different but not as different as wheni switched brake lines. I really didnt expect that kind of change from switching brake lines. I dont know what caused it but i do like the results after getting used to it.
Hawk296 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 02:44 PM   #19
Hawk296
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 14555
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Troy, MI
Vehicle:
1995 Impreza L
Baja

Default

oh yeah, when I bleed the brakes I start farthest from the MC and move closer, so i start right rear then left rear then right front and finally left front. no bubbles and a hard pedal each time i do it.
Hawk296 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 07:00 PM   #20
Jaxx
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Boise,Idaho,USA
Vehicle:
The 93 Imp W/EJ20K
flat black

Default

the L master cil is 23.81 or .9374"

with a .4 reducing ratio

LS 4 wheel disk MC is 25.4 or 1"

same reducing ratio...
Jaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 07:02 PM   #21
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default

Here you go Jaxx:


I haven't decided if I want to try that yet or not.

I am having a hard time discerning between a firm and a spongy pedal. It feels solid with the car off and I think it feels solid when I'm braking. But I am having a hard time determining the difference between flex in the system and air in the lines. I did notice that I have over an inch in pedal travel before I start to feel any increase in pedal pressure or braking.

I do not have the tandem booster. I'll probably see if I can find an SVX master cylinder in a few days. It's only $30 on car-part.com.

I don't know if I am getting used to it or what but the actually stopping power seems to be feeling a little better. The amount of grease showing on the rotor seems to be dissipating. Spending $350 on this budget upgrade seems a little out of the budget for now. In the meantime, I will probably just clean the rotors and see if it helps. I was reading on pad deposits on rotors and I'm wondering if that may be the vibrating sensation I'm feeling when apply the brakes lightly. There was some rust particles and small deposits on the rotors that I could not clean off and I wonder if they may be affecting this.

-Jon
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 07:03 PM   #22
stimpy
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator
 
Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2008 STI

Default

Same size as mine... Thanks Jaxx. Now I'm confused.

-Jon
stimpy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 07:07 PM   #23
Legacy777
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:
1990 Legacy & 97 OBS
AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap

Default

Jaxx,

did you use 90 legacy sedan rear calipers or wagon rear calipers?

The sedan rear calipers are 1.374" in dia, while the wagons are 1.5" in dia.

On the bleeding procedure. I'd stick with the FSM method, RF LR LF RR.

i've done the furthest away method and it just didn't seem to work as well. Might just be me......either way....both should work ok.
Legacy777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-10-2003, 09:24 PM   #24
Jaxx
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Boise,Idaho,USA
Vehicle:
The 93 Imp W/EJ20K
flat black

Default

ya know ... i am not sure .. it might very well be from a sedan and explain some of the story...
Jaxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 07:05 AM   #25
tbd
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 15322
Join Date: Feb 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: so cal
Vehicle:
1995 gf wagon
Blue Green Metallic 340

Default who has abs?

jon,
quick question: does your car have abs? supposedly, either the mc or booster is different between the non and abs versions.
tbd is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
3 cars, lots of snow, lots of subaru, lots of gettin stuck, and lots of pics kessler89 Member's Car Gallery 10 11-18-2010 09:44 AM
My new (to me) '09 SSM Hatch (story and lots of pics inside) AceV Member's Car Gallery 25 04-13-2010 08:37 PM
Lots of Pics of my MR2 pre and post swap blue-sun Member's Car Gallery 65 06-04-2005 11:54 PM
Lots of pics from Steamboat, CO.... and lots of snow ;) jpsimon Off-Topic 26 12-16-2004 01:08 PM
Pics of my car with Carbon hood, BOMEX mirrors, and lots of other cool stuff! adamsrs Member's Car Gallery 15 06-07-2001 03:36 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.