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Old 06-11-2003, 03:05 PM   #1
Boost4U
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Join Date: Mar 2002
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Vehicle:
1998 2.5RS
WRB

Default What to do next??

Here is my situation guys;

I have a 98 AT RS, I have stripped the interior and have removed the engine and tranny....I am currently working on repairing the MY02 EJ20. Is there anything that I should do to prepare for dropping the engine in? I am also waiting on parts from my source. I don not have the ECU or the Harness yet... Any advice from those who know more than me would be a great help.....

PS....just finished the tour of the pits at the Montreal F1...MAN I WANT THOSE TOOLS
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Old 06-11-2003, 03:20 PM   #2
Jaxx
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are you putting in a manual... if you have the interior out now would be a good time to put the manual peddle box in
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Old 06-11-2003, 05:24 PM   #3
stimpy
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Pedal box (just swapping the manuals around anyway) is pretty straight forward when you just peel the driver's side carpet back.

With the interior stripped, you are in a very good position to start hacking your wiring harness if you are going to run that EJ20 off the stock ecu.

-Jon
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Old 06-12-2003, 01:44 AM   #4
Sunrise City Rider
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Blue Ridge Pearl

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It's more than just a pedal box...You have to mark and drill out the firewall to install the Clutch Cylinder with Reservoir as its a Hydraulic clutch in the 02 WRX...

If your'e sticking with the auto then don't worry about that...

Now you need to pull the Xmember Steering Rack, and complete wiring harness off...Get a WRX or Walboro Fuel Pump and drop that in...Get rid of your exhaust...Look Get ready to mess with your A/C wiring, Windshield Wiper Wiring, Pull your Airbag system out and remove the airbags from the covers to save weight if you like...I have pics that I need to post up, even if they look like crap...Email me and I'll send them to you...

Zee
intikab@cs.com
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:04 PM   #5
stimpy
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Whoah there!

You don't have to drill anything. All the holes are already in the chassis. It's just a bolt-in affair. I think it would be absurd if Subaru actually had completely different chassis for AT vs MT cars.

There should be grommet in a kind of diamond shape that you just pull out revealing the spot for the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. It bolts right onto the firewall using the manual pedal assembly bolts.

-Jon
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:09 PM   #6
Sunrise City Rider
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That makes things easier...I had to drill out the firewall on a Honda CRX that I had converted to Hydraulic Tranny...

Zee
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Old 06-12-2003, 07:14 PM   #7
stimpy
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Yikes! But that was a Honda, not a Subaru Subaru is the king of engineering-centric automobile manufacturing.

-Jon
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Old 06-22-2003, 01:40 PM   #8
Boost4U
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WOW...thanks guys!!

I have the MT pedal box in(With STI pedals attached!!), I haven't sourced the clutch assembly yet...any day now!

I'm going to work on figuring which wires go with which on the two diferent harnesses and then label them so I can just cut and solder when I get the MY02 Harness and ECU.

I think I'm gonna work on dropping out the steering rach and X-member today! As soon as I figure out how!
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Old 06-22-2003, 02:21 PM   #9
Sunrise City Rider
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Quote:
Originally posted by stimpy
Yikes! But that was a Honda, not a Subaru Subaru is the king of engineering-centric automobile manufacturing.

-Jon
Actually no Honda Civic, CRX or Integra from 88-91 had a Hydraulic Transmission setup, they were all Cable...So, Not only was I installing a 5speed in an auto, I had to make a motor mount and install complete Hydraulic HardLines with Proportioning Valve...

I expect that all Honda Civics 92-up will have the same knockouts in the firewall for the Hydraulic 5speeds as the Subarus...Since they all were hydraulic from that year on...

Zee
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Old 06-22-2003, 03:38 PM   #10
wac
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Default Re: What to do next??

Quote:
Any advice from those who know more than me would be a great help.....
Read this post if you haven't already:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=378813

You may also need the tranny x-member (not sure if that's what you were referring to in one of your replies above), driveshaft, and confirm that all your diffs ratios are compatible.
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Old 06-23-2003, 01:29 PM   #11
stimpy
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Here you go ( I wrote this about 2 years ago):

Turbo Engine Crossmember -- My install time for this was actually about 4 hours, taking it slow and easy. My second time doing this actually only took me about 1 hour. Here is a brief overview of the install quoted from Imprezer (I-Club); I have gone through and revised the install instructions with my own experiences: "Put it on jack stands [the best place for the jack stands are under the rear mount for the front control arms]. [First, you must unbolt the catalytic converter pipe from the support braket and remove the 6 14mm bolts holding the exhaust headers to the block. Then, unbolt the headers from the cat pipe with a 14mm rachet and wrench; be careful with the O2 sensors, don't want to pull them out of their wiring harness]Unbolt the engine mounts from the x-member [with 14mm deep socket]. Remove the pitching rod [we were actually able to do this install without removing this pitching rod; the part he is referring to is a dog-bone shaped plastic piece located underneath the airbox and just above the transmission]. Jack up the engine and bit. Maybe an 1" or so [just enough for both engine mount bolts to clear the crossmember]. Remove the [cotter] pin from where the steering rack [arm] attaches to each hub. Remove that 19mm castlenut. Wack the top of the steering rack arm bolt and it will drop out of the hub [we are basically unattaching the steering rack from the wheels so we can remove the rack]. [Remove the front sway bar at the endlinks and at the mounting points (12mm)] Unbolt the control arms from both the x-member [use 17mm rachet and wrench] and the unberbody, so that the only place they remain attached to is the hub [I actually found that if you have two people, you can leave the rear control arm mounts attached and just man handle the control arms out of the way. The rear control arm mounts are really torqued down too; we actually broke my 19mm socket trying to remove them, so they stayed bolted up in the rear]. Crawl under the car from the front drivers side. Find where the steering rack attaches to the steering column/shaft/pole [we are trying to locate the steering knuckle, the best way is to go above the engine compartment and locate where the steering column goes through the firewall. Remove the 2 12mm bolts and before sliding the joint off, mark how it was sittng there so that you won't have to realign your steering afterwards [this is a spline joint, so it is easily possible to get your steering wheel crooked; I did. You can work with this steering knuckle by just jacking up the car, so its not that critical]. Slide the joint off. Remove the power steering lines where they connect to the rack on the lower passenger side. Use 17mm and 14mm wrenches [slowly undo the nuts at equal amounts so you can remove both lines almost at the same time. You will get powersteering fluid everywhere as soon as the nut is undone. I pulled the lines up above the powersteering pump to prevent leaking]. Cover all of the lines so that nothing gets inside. [Remove the steering rack from the crossmember by removing the 4 14mm bolts.] Remove the 2 17mm bolts on each side where the x-member is attached to the body. Remove the old x-member and install the new one reversing the insructions....[Don't forget to check your power steering fluid and add if necessary while cycling the rack lock to lock]" A special thanks to Imprezer for that one.

Have fun

-Jon
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Old 06-23-2003, 11:34 PM   #12
Boost4U
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Great...the X-member and steering rack are off.
I'm just waiting for the GC8 WRX X-member to arrive and then I can re-install.....

I was also wondering something.....Will I have trouble running my MY98 gauge cluster from the AT car?? (Assuming I am using the MY02 ECU, Engine, 5MT)
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