Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday September 23, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Car Audio, Video & Security

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-11-2003, 02:41 PM   #1
smp291
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9520
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Satans Left Testicle
Vehicle:
89 weak ass
commuter civic

Default Whats the best sound deadening Material

Im gonna be installing a sub or two and I would like to add the deadening stuff. Plus I want to put it in my doors. So whats the best stuff out there, are there any good websites?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
smp291 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 03:16 PM   #2
Daven
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 14650
Join Date: Jan 2002
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
Aspen White

Default

I know of 2 WRX's locally who have Raammatted.


Raamaudio.com Stuff is quite a bit cheaper than dynamat. Roughy 100ish a roll shipped. doign the outer skins, inner skin and door panel of each door and trunk takes about a roll and a 1/2. I've got my car done with it.

Last edited by Daven; 06-11-2003 at 04:01 PM.
Daven is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 03:18 PM   #3
jobs
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 18664
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Los Angeles
Vehicle:
2010 Outback SWPearl
,99 Black Outback sport

Default

jobs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 04:26 PM   #4
elsanto
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 34832
Join Date: Apr 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: was once a nut like me.
Vehicle:
1989 M3
White

Default

Ive used both cascade and Dynamat extreme.. the cascade was lousy compared to dynamat, bought a "trunk Kit" for my wagon and i got about 1/2 of the job done with the kit.. and crappy quality compared to dynamat. ive heard good stuff about brown bread , Raamat and bquiet also.
elsanto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 05:08 PM   #5
smp291
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9520
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Satans Left Testicle
Vehicle:
89 weak ass
commuter civic

Default

Cool I will check out all of those. I need it for my truck...
smp291 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 07:12 PM   #6
well_armed
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15204
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bellevue, WA
Vehicle:
2013 Outie Esss Four

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by elsanto
Ive used both cascade and Dynamat extreme.. the cascade was lousy compared to dynamat, bought a "trunk Kit" for my wagon and i got about 1/2 of the job done with the kit.. and crappy quality compared to dynamat. ive heard good stuff about brown bread , Raamat and bquiet also.
I disagree, the best stuff so far I have seen is the Cascade audio product. Their kits are not very good, meaning can cover a lot of square footage, but their product is far superior to dynamat. Here's my front drivers side door with full sound dampening done to it:


I used VB-2HD on the outer skin (what you see in the pic) and Vmax on the inner part of the outside sheet metal.
well_armed is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 07:15 PM   #7
defduane
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 17718
Join Date: Apr 2002
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
2006 Forester XT
Dark Blue

Default

Brown Bread is a very good sound deadening material. Similar or better than Dynamat Extreme, but much less expensive.

I think b-quiet.com sells it.
defduane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-11-2003, 11:35 PM   #8
ruiner
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 20784
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Dallas, TX
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza WRX
WR Blue

Default

Cascade is great stuff but just as expensive if not more than Dynamat. Another high recommendation from me for Raammat.

Chad
ruiner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2003, 11:31 AM   #9
jerome02rs
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 6347
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2002 Impreza 2.5RS
Platinum Silver

Default

If you check out all the audio/ install sites as well as reviews the overall consensus is that Brown Bread is the best there is.
jerome02rs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2003, 06:01 PM   #10
armand1
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 10309
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
'02 OBS 2-tone!
'95 Montego Miata

Default

Quote:
If you check out all the audio/ install sites as well as reviews the overall consensus is that Brown Bread is the best there is.
As we've just shown in the posts above, there is NO consensus! All the different materials have their own tradeoffs wrt price, thickness, smell, adhesive, etc. Price-conscious people will avoid Dynamat and Cascade for the cheaper products; smell-conscious people will avoid the asphalt-based stuff; thickness-conscious people will go for some of vinyl-based Cascade stuff; it all depends on what your personal tradeoffs are.
armand1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 09:58 AM   #11
smp291
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9520
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Satans Left Testicle
Vehicle:
89 weak ass
commuter civic

Default

I sure dont want it to stink. Thinkness isnt a problem....I just dont want rattles
smp291 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 10:33 AM   #12
jghall00
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 35147
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Dirty South...literally (Houston)
Vehicle:
1994 Honda

Default

Have you considered concrete?
jghall00 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 10:42 AM   #13
sonicblue
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 25227
Join Date: Sep 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Oh s**t I ain't from Brooklyn!
Vehicle:
2006 Kodo Homage
Dark Titanium

Default

From b-quiet.com:

Brown Bread, >= $2.30 and about .4 lbs. per sq ft.
Dynamat, >=$5.40 and about .45 lbs. per sq ft.

From rammaudio.com:
Raammat60, =$1.60 and about .45 lbs. per sq ft.

I'm going to do my roof soon, so I'm interested in this. Just my half-cocked analysis, but based on these quick comparisons and given that all three have gotten some positive feedback here, I would take Brown Bread for only a little more than Raammat but less weight.
sonicblue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2003, 12:30 PM   #14
Jakezor
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9624
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
Vehicle:
2002 ImprezaWRXsedan
Platinum Silver Metallic

Default

Dynamat Extreme (if you can find a good deal on it)
or
Rammaat 60
Jakezor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2003, 07:52 PM   #15
Greg_R
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 25704
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Vehicle:
2000 Impreza 2.5 RS
Red

Default

I'm wrapping up an install on my '00 RS that uses Raamatt 60 as the dampener. Installation is very easy and a heat gun is not required (assuming the outside temp is warm). If it is cold (< 60 deg) a heat gun will be required. A roller (or something to press the material into shape) is an absolute must. The material does not smell at any time and is very sticky. Be sure to clean the metal surfaces prior to application.

Keep in mind that dampening materials will only stop the metal from vibrating. Exterior noise will still be transmitted. You will want some sound absorbtion material in addition to the dampener. Foam is a cheap absorber. A better solution is layer constrained foam (foam, a thin dense layer, foam, then another thin dense layer). BQuiet makes 2 good products... LComp and VComp.

In my car I used two rolls of LComp and 3 rolls of VComp (along with 2.5 rolls of Raamatt). This is for a full install (detailed below):

- Headliner: 2 layers Raamatt, 1 layer LComp in front and 1 layer of Vcomp in back
- A and B pillars: 2 layers of Raamatt, 1 layer of VComp
- Trunk: 2 layers of Raamatt (some areas 3 layers)
- Floor: 2 layers of Raamatt (some areas 3 layers). LComp on front floor, VComp on rear floor.
- Doors: 2 layers of Raamatt for the inside and outside portions of the door. 1 layer of Lcomp for the front doors, 1 layer of VComp for the rear doors.

Performance loss is similar to turning on the A/C. This install is easily the biggest PITA I've encountered w.r.t. working on cars. It took a friend and myself 18 straight hours to do the floor, headliner, rear deck, & part of the trunk. We thought it would be done quickly after gutting the car in 1 hour... boy were we wrong! Part of this time was spent running wire from the engine compartment to the trunk (I had already run the new ground and power wires). Signal wires were run along the roof and power wires were run along the floor. I also had to add a wood panel behind the rear seat (needed something to screw the amps into). FWIW, I would not recommend trying to reassemble your car at 3 a.m.! I've probably put another 8 hours into completing the trunk and doors...

After all of this pain, I can say that road noise is drastically reduced. The sunroof and windows no longer 'grind', they 'whir and click' into place. It seems I took this post somewhat off topic in my eagerness to vent about deadener application. Anyway, enjoy the project (if you dare!).

Last edited by Greg_R; 06-18-2003 at 07:59 PM.
Greg_R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 05:01 AM   #16
armand1
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 10309
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
'02 OBS 2-tone!
'95 Montego Miata

Default

Quote:
It took a friend and myself 18 straight hours to do the floor, headliner, rear deck, & part of the trunk.
Good job! You saved a ton of money over having an installer do it, and got to see the job done right!
armand1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 10:04 AM   #17
smp291
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9520
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Satans Left Testicle
Vehicle:
89 weak ass
commuter civic

Default

Well at least the space in my Mazda Truck is a wee bit smaller than the WRX so Less materials will be needed! I just need to get some deadener...
smp291 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 10:43 AM   #18
sil0nt
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 30584
Join Date: Nov 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago
Vehicle:
05 STi Black
07 S4 Avant Black

Default

I'm about to pick up a roll of Raammat60. From what I've read, its the best for me. Its cheap, its not too heavy, its easy to apply, it doesn't smell bad, and it deadenes sound and dampens vibration really well.
sil0nt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 12:54 PM   #19
il96
Gone... But not forgotten
 
Member#: 13082
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Philadelphia
Default

How much material is needed to cover (one layer) the coupe doors, trunk and trunk lid ?
I did my floor yesterday, it was the worst job ever. tearing the whole car apart and then assembling it back is not fun especially when you deal with plastic fasteners. I used the sound deadening stuff from mcmaster.com, which I wouldn't recommend anybdy else. It is very hard to flex, it's probably not the lightest, and probably doesn't isolate as good. It was cheap though.
il96 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 07:40 PM   #20
philw007
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34326
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: MA
Vehicle:
2004 WRX STI
WRB

Default

Got an new sti. What would you recommend for some sound deadening...I want to kill some of the road noise. I am also planning on having a stereo installed. Was wondering what would be a cheap (without gutting whole car) way to get some decrease in road noise. Would adding dynamat to the doors help? How about to the trunk?

What won't cost too much for install?

Thanks in advance for any recommendations on material and locations.
philw007 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2003, 11:06 PM   #21
G-force
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 14104
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Vehicle:
UBER ILikeItLongAndH
ardDeepandSmoothEverSoCoo

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by il96
How much material is needed to cover (one layer) the coupe doors, trunk and trunk lid ?
I did my floor yesterday, it was the worst job ever. tearing the whole car apart and then assembling it back is not fun especially when you deal with plastic fasteners. I used the sound deadening stuff from mcmaster.com, which I wouldn't recommend anybdy else. It is very hard to flex, it's probably not the lightest, and probably doesn't isolate as good. It was cheap though.
and it doesnt stick for crap, even in 90+ degree weather, and that was after 3 hours in the sun as well...heavy, not very flexible, easy to tear, and did have a slight odor as well...yea, it's cheap, but not worth my 2 hours of time messing with it and still didnt do the job...in the end, i just rip the whole crap off..now i got 3 rolls of this crap.

guess you live and learn..gonna try that brown bread or raamat instead.
G-force is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2003, 04:12 PM   #22
SubieStu
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 4584
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: North Carolina, USA
Default

The McMaster-Carr materials I used on my OTS worked great.

It is heavy, I'll admit, but it adhered extremely well for me since I used a real heat gun and roller/spoon to apply it.

1) dampening: Polymeric mastic, part number 9709T19. Indistinguishable from the higher priced spread. Two or three layers everywhere. Self adhesive but need lots of heat to adhere really well. As mentioned earlier clean the surfaces well. Next time I mayl use the viscoelastic, part number 9709T26...more expensive, but lighter and has better DLF. McMaster also has a vibration damping compound part #9545T1 that looks like a good substitute for Cascade's V-Block for the outer door skins.

Work in the sun and a use heat gun. A roller and spoon also help. Gloves too. If it's bare metal cover it and cover it again. Maybe even again. Both sides. For the doors it's easy to pull the window regulator and glass to get inside. Don't cover the water drain holes inside the door cavity. I didn't take the carpet completely out under the dash...just worked under it...a pain. No asphalt smell past the first couple of weeks.

2) barrier: Vinyl sheeting loaded with lead-free barium metal powder, part # 54665T32. Use 1/8" neoprene sponge rubber to decouple the barrier from the body, part # 8647K71. Do the floor pan, parcel shelf and wall behind seats. I used a spray adhesive that I got at the upholstery shop to adhere the rubber to the vinyl barrier. The rubber backed vinyl sheet doesn't have to adhere to the body...use duct tape to keep it in place.

3) absorption: a) between the barrier and carpet, use the generic gray padding sold at upholstery shops. I used a reinforced type almost 1/2" thick. Hard to cut and made for pouffy carpets, use a thinner version b) fill all the voids in the tunnels between the trunk and pax compartment and in front of the gas tank...Flat Sound Absorbing Foam, part number 5692T49. 1" thick, adhesive back, skinned surface.

Total cost about $250 (doesn't include the trunk) but I have some left over. If you think that's expensive, price Dynamat or Cascade. I don't have all my receipts but I used about 4 or 5 sheets of the dampener, 6 or 7 linear feet of the barrier, 3 sheets of the neoprene and 1 or 2 linear feet of the acoustical foam.

Obviously you don't have to do all this, anything you do will help. I'm very happy with the result, but I don't know if I'd do it again. It's a royal pain and takes a long time not to mention the minor cuts and burns. It adds a lot of weight. The dampener isn't 100% reversible if put down right. Did I mention it's a royal pain to do?

Stu
SubieStu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2003, 11:12 AM   #23
aov
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 7193
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:
MY02 WRX
Blue

Default

Hope this is not too off topic (maybe the thread starter would like to know too )

For someone who just wants to add a little bit of sound-proofing to reduce tire/road noise, what would you recommend? Would rammaat60 in the trunk floor, wheel wells, and maybe a little on the floor inside the cabin make any difference, or do you have to cover everything??

thanks,
-anders
aov is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2003, 04:18 PM   #24
well_armed
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 15204
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bellevue, WA
Vehicle:
2013 Outie Esss Four

Default

These are vibration dampening materials...they will not decrease road noise but will only help with the noise associated with road vibration. (which is not a whole lot) It made a big diffy in my ride, but thats because I did a crap load of it...just a little here...and a little there...wont do you much good for all the labor and costs associated with it.
well_armed is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A tutorial on how to install sound deadening material in the front doors? Jesperss Car Audio, Video & Security 25 04-19-2013 08:24 PM
whats the best sounding exhaust ??? boostedsti06 Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain 98 03-01-2007 12:29 AM
whats the best sounding exhaust for the sti in your opinion? stihopeful Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain 103 04-14-2005 01:06 AM
sound deadening material under the hood MBPEJ20 Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain 8 03-25-2003 04:22 PM
who has removed the sound deadening material from their car? DoinkMobb Normally Aspirated Powertrain 42 07-22-2002 04:31 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:46 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.