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Old 08-30-2000, 08:27 AM   #1
arejay
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 1916
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Owensboro, KY
Post Brake Pad Replacement - How To

I had promised to enter this info into our "searchable" database some time ago. I'm sorry I'm just getting around to it. Here is the procedure for replacing both front and rear brake pads, courtesy of "logicworkz":


Brake Job Instructions compiled by "logicworkz"

Print this out. I've done my own on my svx...Hard to explain without visual aids, but can't let
you pay to have it done. It's so f'in easy. Let's give it try...But the chilton book on all Subarus from 80 something to whatever. Helps alot...Here we go

MAIN TOOLS NEEDED:
* C - CLAMP (if you can't get this, don't bother)
* RATCHET AND 10MM SOCKET
* ANTI-SQUEAK COMPOUND (optional)
* GUMOUT OR SOME OTHER STRONG DEGREASER
* RAGS
* Turkey baister thingy
* 1 QT DOT3-4 Brake Fluid (just in case)

1) Jack car, Jack stands in place, wheels off, get under the hood and clean your brake fluid reservoir cap like your Sunday shoes. Then unscrew it completely and place it halfway open back on the reservoir. Any dirt on the cap that enters your brake fluid will be catastrophic, not to mention expensive.

2) Sit down with your crotch directly under the brake rotor (no joke)
(this is hard to explain w/o pictures)

3) put your hand on the brake caliper, upper most spot. Slowly move your hand down the caliper as if caressing a woman (don't worry if it turns you on, it's an SVX...)

4) Reach around the back of the caliper (CLPR) when you're around 2-3 inches from the bottom. Stick your head in the wheel well and look behind the CLPR. You should see a bolt with a kind of rubber boot on it. All you'll see is the head of the bolt.

5) Whip out your 10mm and screw it all the way out. Now comes the fun part. Put your hand directly on top of the CLPR and push it back and forth to get a little play. Then...lift the top of the CLPR like a hood of sorts. Don't be bashful. She wants you to pop her open. You may have to be forceful, but it will swivel up towards the wheel well. Get your C-clamp close to you. You see those two little mouse pads. To the one closest to you, put you're fingers on the back of the pad and pop it out. Like Lego. Make a mental note of the shape, appearance, & location of the pad. There will be an exact replacement for it on the box. I don't know about you, but I forgot which was which because I didn't make a mental note of which was where before I took everything out.

6)There will still be a pad on the inside wall of the CLPR. Leave it there. Get the C-Clamp. This is the crucial step of any brake pad service. Put the back of the clamp on the back of the CLPR and the stick portion directly on the pad and squeeze with all you got. Give it about 4 good strong turns and then check your brake fluid reservoir. Make sure your not overflowing. You may be overflowing because you just finished "c-clamping" the brake pad against the piston in your CLPR. Doin this forces the piston back on itself and consequently forces the brake fluid back up through the system. If you overflow the turkey baister comes in handy to suck some fluid out.

7)Overflow contained...continue to squeeze the pad against the piston until it's flat against the CLPR. Don't get out of hand. You don't wanna crack the pad or anything. Use your judgment and watch that reservoir.

8)With that done, that pad has serverd its purpose and can be removed with the same Lego
technique-but from behind the CLPR.

9) Pads gone...naked caliper staring you in the face. Spray it clean everywhere with your Gumout carb cleaner. I use that because it dries fast. Don't use WD-40!

10) If you have the anti-squeak follow directions on packaging. Now remember that mental note I
asked you to make about the shape, appearance, & location of that pad. Look at your new pads and find the mental note pad. See it...Take the OTHER ONE and slide that into the CLPR first. Back side facing the piston, curved side down so it conforms to the rotor. Click..like Lego. Be patience. These Lego's are old. Use your eyes and hands to guide it in. The pads only fit in one way. With the far pad in and against the piston, slide the other pad (mental note) in with the back facing you Patience-Lego-you know the drill.

11) Almost there....Pads in. Swing the caliper(CLPR) closed so it fits snuggly over the rotor. Push the CLPR forward and back, make sure the pads are situated flat against there respective sides of the CLPR. Finesse that CLPR back into place. If you're having absolutely no luck at this stage, you done F*cked up. No biggie. Remove the new pads, making mental notes, and repeat steps 6 through now. Before you start, replace the old you c-clamped the first time to its old spot in CLPR. You're gonna have to push the piston back further and maybe remove more brake fluid. You see, new pads have a lot more meat on them than the old tenants. Therefore we have to move some furniture (piston) around to make room for them.

12) with the CLPR in place, get the rubber booted screw and put it back. You may have to swing the CLPR up and down slightly to get the screw back in.

13) tighten that mother with a few taps of a hammer on your ratchet while it's on the nut.......carefully holding the ratchet to make sure it doesn't slip and strip that nut! You'll be hatin life.

14) do the same for the other side and the front for that matter...

15) Replace the cover on the reservoir. Sit in the car, carefully, and pump the brakes hard and
hold...hard and hold...feel the difference. Bet you can't wait to drive it. Not yet. Check the brake fluid. If it's low add some, close up, hit the brakes, check fluid again and fill as needed. Repeat as necessary. Put your wheels on drop it and test brake in a safe area AWAY from traffic. Give it few smooth stops to break'em in the stomp the gas and come to a few squealing halts to confirm a job well done...

15) Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......Congrats. You just saved about a hundred-dollaz o moe and better yet, every time you hit your brakes you'll picture them in your head.

-Logic

P/s sorry if I offended anyone w/ the sexual overtones, but it's the SVX, it's got me by the.... Happy
wrenching!

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arejay is offline  
 

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