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Old 06-28-2003, 06:53 PM   #1
kenchan
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Member#: 15106
Join Date: Feb 2002
Default Utec in Humid warmer weather

Im using stage1 on my 02wrx. Its been running great since
Jan 03 when i bought the utec. I set it in the winter to 0.107mpa
at 4000rpm in 4th gear.

Lately with the warmer humid weather, max boost only
reaches 0.1 mpa and settles around 0.09mpa at 4000rpm
4th. The performance is definitely only about 80%.

Now is it safe to change the ABC setting so that
it reaches 0.107mpa again at 4th 4000rpm in this warmer
more humid weather? Or is it overworking the turbo?

I have the factory uppipe in there so do not want to
risk shattering the catalyst.

thanks,
Ken
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Old 06-29-2003, 01:22 PM   #2
kenchan
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Default

i changed the ABC setting to pull 0.104mpa at 4000rpm in 4th.
This is in 75F 40%RH.

i thought it over and i think if we were to increase boost
level to meet 0.104-0.107mpa again in warmer humid
weather, it would only mean more work for the turbo
and not additional work for the uppipe catalyst.

The amount of heat coming from the header should not
be any different if the end boost result is the same
at 4000rpm 4th gear and a/f ratios are the same as
it is a matter of how much more warmer humid air the
turbo needs to compress into the throttle body to meet
the same o2 molecule count in 28F air.

The reason I lowered the boost level this time is because
i did not want to over work the turbo and also wanted to
keep the intercooler temps consistently lower by boosting
lower.

Even at 75F, i can tell heat soak between a pull from
a 2min stop at a traffic signal and a no stop pull. i think
i need to get a water spray kit or a larger intercooler.

Please comment if my understanding is incorrect.
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Old 07-02-2003, 02:00 PM   #3
mtb_dude
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: LI, NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX Wagon
#47 SM w/RA gears

Default

Three words: Closed Loop Boost

You'll need to find your target boost levels, so some tuning is required, but once it's set the weather doesn't matter anymore.
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Old 07-02-2003, 02:02 PM   #4
RiftsWRX
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Location: Glendale Hts, IL, USA
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2000 NFR AP1 S2000
'07 Honda FIT sport (5MT)

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by mtb_dude
Three words: Closed Loop Boost

You'll need to find your target boost levels, so some tuning is required, but once it's set the weather doesn't matter anymore.
That's what I told him

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
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Old 07-02-2003, 02:08 PM   #5
mtb_dude
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#47 SM w/RA gears

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Nice
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Old 07-03-2003, 12:09 AM   #6
Steppin Razor
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Seal Gray

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Quote:
Originally posted by mtb_dude
Three words: Closed Loop Boost

You'll need to find your target boost levels, so some tuning is required, but once it's set the weather doesn't matter anymore.
can you explain this in a bit more detail please?
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Old 07-03-2003, 02:23 AM   #7
kenchan
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sure, but it'll cost you 75-100 and about hour to hour and a
half of tuning road dyno.


i just turned up the ABC at 75C 40RH. today at 90F 57RH
it was still holding boost quite well.



Quote:
Originally posted by Steppin Razor


can you explain this in a bit more detail please?
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:10 AM   #8
RiftsWRX
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'07 Honda FIT sport (5MT)

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Quote:
Originally posted by kenchan
sure, but it'll cost you 75-100 and about hour to hour and a
half of tuning road dyno.


i just turned up the ABC at 75C 40RH. today at 90F 57RH
it was still holding boost quite well.





Sure, if you want someone to do it. Or you can try it yourself, it's really NOT hard, I've been encouraging you to do it for a while! You COULD do it in less then 10 minutes of trial and error and recording with the logger.

haha it's not like I've ever tried to force tuning on you or anyone else.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
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Old 07-03-2003, 04:57 PM   #9
kenchan
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hahaha, im just kiddin with ya Jorge.


yah, if i was sure how to tune this thing, but im not so
i would rather just turn up the ABC or have you do that
closed loop tuning if things get real bad. but so far
even today at 93F 60RH, im still pulling pretty hard.



Quote:
Originally posted by RiftsWRX




Sure, if you want someone to do it. Or you can try it yourself, it's really NOT hard, I've been encouraging you to do it for a while! You COULD do it in less then 10 minutes of trial and error and recording with the logger.

haha it's not like I've ever tried to force tuning on you or anyone else.

Jorge (RiftsWRX)
www.ProjectWRX.com
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Old 07-03-2003, 07:10 PM   #10
mtb_dude
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#47 SM w/RA gears

Default

Well from the manual it says that at stage 1, you should have 16.1 psi at 4000 rpm, at 5500 rpm you should have 15 psi and at 6000+ it should be 11 psi or so (double check the manual, I might be off). All you have to do is get the closed loop boost numbers to achieve those boost levels. It's not THAT easy, Jorge is used to it so it seems mindless to him, but it's not THAT hard either. It took me about four test drives with my laptop to get it right. Once the boost curve starts to look like the old open loop curve, you don't have to deal with it anymore, it will always achieve the same boost levels. Then you can read a whole lot more and then play with timing and fuel, although I'd recommend leaving it pretty rich like the turboxs map.
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Old 07-06-2003, 09:26 AM   #11
kenchan
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mtb-dude- thanks for that info. im now spraying nitrous
onto my intercooler to rid heatsoak.

but yah you are right, the manual says 16.1psi at 4000rpm at
4th. i keep a slight margin since im using the factory
uppipe...which will be replaced sometime this fall.

until then, im going to use 15.5psi max.
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