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Old 06-28-2003, 08:46 PM   #1
yebokmj
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Default Looking for Engine Removal Guide

Does anyone have the factory manuals with a engine removal guide? Or know where its documented? I am going to be doing this soon. While it seems straight forward I want to make it quick and painless. Thanks Guys.
Joshua
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Old 06-28-2003, 09:51 PM   #2
8Complex

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It's very straight-forward.

Get under there and remove the exhaust headers, the lower transmission bolts, before you have to roll around in coolant/oil (I've never had a clean pull before... whoever designed the spigot for radiator draining should be shot). Also back the transmission mount nuts off the mount studs to the ends. You don't need a lot of room, but you don't want to just flex it either.

Drain the coolant. I like pulling the lower radiator hose off the thermostat until thats done, then pull the thermostat off as well to get the remainder out.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Disconnect and relocate the electrical harness from the battery to the alternator out of the way (leave it on the battery, just tuck the loose end somewhere). Disconnect the engine harness from the rear pass. corner of the motor.

Remove the intake tract and pitch stop mount.

Note, this is all assuming you're bright enough to realize what you need to remove from the turbo setup first.

Disconnect the starter wires. Disconnect the vacuum lines for the brake booster and the cruise control. Disconnect the throttle cable and cruise control cable from the throttle body.

Coolant should be completely empty by now, so remove the top radiator hose.

Remove the coolant overflow tank, the radiator fans (plugs on the bottom, don't forget to reconnect them when reinstalled!), and I like removing the radiator for even that much more room.

Remove the 2 engine belts, and proceed to remove the power steering and AC bolts (some are tough to get to, but they should all be accessible). Flop the PS and AC to the sides and out of the way, maybe hold them with a bungee cord.

Remove the rest of the trans bolts.

NOTE: Automatic transmissions will require the removal of the flex plate bolts before pulling the motor. I don't know a whole lot about them, but I know there is an extra step or two in there for the torque converter.

Everything should be free at this point. Hook the hoist up to the motor and start lifting the engine a bit. When you see the motor actually lifting off the crossmember, you will need to get a floor jack under the transmission and support it as well. You do NOT want to bend the studs or pins on the back of the block. Slowly lift both until the engine mounts are clear the crossmember and make sure there isn't a whole lot of tension between the motor and trans by keeping them even in the lifting process.

At this point you just need to slide the motor forward until it seperates from the trans. You may get some binding and need to argue with it a bit (wiggle the motor, I have seen people use a screwdriver between engine and trans, but I cringe every time. Should be fine, but I just don't like forcing some things). Eventually you will seperate them enough and be able to lift the motor fully out of the engine compartment and over the radiator support & front end.

Congrats, reverse the process to reinstall, and double-check all fluid line connections before filling, and that everything is filled before starting.
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Old 06-28-2003, 10:18 PM   #3
yebokmj
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Default Amazing

That is amazingly helpful. I was unclear about one part though everything else was understandable:
Also back the transmission mount nuts off the mount studs to the ends. You don't need a lot of room, but you don't want to just flex it either.

I just want to check this is just the two bolts from the Transmition mount in the cross member right?

Incase your curious I am getting rid of my NA MY97 2.2 and swaping in a MY97 2.5. Before the 2.5 goes in the heads will be O-ringed and a new headgasket installed. Everything thing should go really easy without any wiring.
Joshua
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Old 06-28-2003, 10:38 PM   #4
8Complex

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Yeah, those are the studs on the tranny mount so that the trans can tilt up and off the trans crossmember a bit when you're lifting the trans with the floor jack.
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:06 PM   #5
bill harvey
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Josh, finally decided to steal your dads motor?
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Old 06-29-2003, 07:42 PM   #6
yebokmj
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Default Stealing= Borrowing

Bill,
You have the right idea but it's really borrowing Or even it could be viewed as a trade for he gets my engine.
Joshua
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Old 06-29-2003, 08:00 PM   #7
V6TurboTA
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Quote:
Originally posted by bill harvey
Josh, finally decided to steal your dads motor?


I was gonna say the same thing.

~v6
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Old 06-29-2003, 11:34 PM   #8
Damon
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8,

i say you go do that run through on a car and take pics for out benefit
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Old 06-30-2003, 04:38 AM   #9
8Complex

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Ironic you say that because I just had a clutch blow on me and will need to remove the motor to get to it. Just as I got the beast tuned to run 5psi through the secondaries, not just the primaries, too. Can't wait to get something heavier in there and be able to run 16psi or so without clutch spin.
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Old 07-04-2003, 08:00 AM   #10
yebokmj
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Default Connecting hoist

Okay I broke the whole engine down like in your directions in preperation for tomorrow when I actually have the engine hoist and will be removing it. My question is how and where does the hoist attach to the engine? I though there might be an obvious spot but I don't see one.
Joshua
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Old 07-04-2003, 02:08 PM   #11
8Complex

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After having done it (forgot to dig out the post a few days ago when I did it), it was about right, but I had to do some extra removal with the turbo and I had to drain the oil first also because of the oil return line (is below the oil level a little and oil pours out otherwise).

There are 2 lifting points on the motor. One is on the rear pass. side where the electrical harnesses used to clip to. It's a strange shaped bracket with a gold/yelllow coating. There is a bolt right under the hoop that sticks up there. If you don't have this on the car any more, dig it out and put that one bolt back in to hold it (that one is plenty). The second spot is the bracket between the alternator and the AC... you'll see a triangular opening at the top of it, and that is what you hook to.
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Old 07-04-2003, 03:30 PM   #12
Tim Sanderson
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A little added info here.

When reinstalling the engine, be careful not to let the tranny shaft bang into or rest on the pressure plate fingers. If you have trouble getting the last 1/2 inch gap together, put a socket on the crank pulley & rotate back & forth to make sure that the clutch disk is splined onto the input shaft correctly. and also to help align the input bearing.

This is also a great opportunity to swap engine/tranny mounts if you were considering it.

Good luck, take your time.
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Old 07-04-2003, 04:35 PM   #13
yebokmj
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Brilliant Red

Default Thanks

Thanks for the help guys. The engine, tranny and pitch rod have already been upgraded. The oil has already been drained for I need to swap my turbo oil pan with the return line to the new engine. Any advice as to how to place the engine to be worked on when I remove the heads when doing the headgasket, oil pan, oil cooler, and clutch and flywheel so I can put them on the new engine.
Joshua
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Old 07-04-2003, 05:18 PM   #14
8Complex

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Spend the $50 or so and get yourself an engine stand, or borrow one if you can. When you're doing a ton of stuff on the motor including the headwork and oil pan stuff, it's very worth having it on a stand. You can't do the clutch/flywheel on the stand, but you can when it's on the engine hoist without much trouble.

Tip for all those with engines out... look at the cover on the rear pass. side of the motor that covers the wrist pin access hole (in the trans housing area) and make sure it isn't leaking oil. Thats a pretty common leak in Subarus, so if it's leaking just pull it off (use a hammer-impact phillips, a normal one won't work) and clean and reseal it.
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