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Old 03-02-2015, 05:12 PM   #1
taylormiller43
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Default Paint care for Obsidian Black Pearl

Hey guys, I picked up an 06 OBP WRX about 5-6 months ago. The previous owner did not take too much care of the paint. It has a lot of swirl marks and there are lots of blemishes on the paint. I have tried a handful of different products and they only make it worse. ive tried Turtlewax rubbing compound, polishing compound. I've also tried a black wax that supposedly would hide scratches. Nothing worked, and if anything made the areas I did worse. I followed the directions they said too. Are there any suggestions you guys have?
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:07 PM   #2
S2 13BT
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2006 Forester XT
Obsidian Black Pearl

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The OBP is layed on fairly think by Subaru apparently, so be very careful.

My Forester sounds similar to yours. Lot's of swirls etc.

My plan is to get a pro to polish it all out to get it back as good as it can be, then some sort of sealant. From there, just look after it as carefully as possible.
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:54 PM   #3
Chaotic29
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2011 Impreza WRX
Obsidian Black Swirl

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Autogeek.net forums will be able to help you alot more with paint stuff
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Old 03-02-2015, 08:05 PM   #4
19DB794
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Graphite Gray

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Where are you located?


Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:43 PM   #5
taylormiller43
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by S2 13BT View Post
The OBP is layed on fairly think by Subaru apparently, so be very careful.

My Forester sounds similar to yours. Lot's of swirls etc.

My plan is to get a pro to polish it all out to get it back as good as it can be, then some sort of sealant. From there, just look after it as carefully as possible.
That's what I have been thinking
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Old 03-02-2015, 10:44 PM   #6
taylormiller43
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Originally Posted by 19DB794 View Post
Where are you located?


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Southern California
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:04 PM   #7
Mxxdudde
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2006 WRX STi
Obsidian Black pearl

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I had this problem when I got my OBP sti that had been in az it's entire life
For one you'll need an orbital polisher I got a black and decker at a pawnshop for $20
For two you'll need meguiars ultimate compound and polish (you can use whatever but these are some awesome products on the cheap) and a clay bar kit (pep boys sells the clay bar for like 6 bucks and just get whatever quick detailer as the the lube)

Wash the car really bad ass using proper washing techniques (two buckets , rinse the mitt don't use on wheels etc)
Clay bar the entire car in the shade
Use the compund with a terry cloth or a foam bonnet
Wipe away excess compound
Use the polish with a microfiber bonnet
(If there's still some bad scratching try a scratch removing wax by hand with lots of elbow grease)
But at this time the paint should be in awesome shape with no defects
Follow up with a wAx or sealant of your choice
(Again meguairs ultimate wax or the nxt wax are a good choice ) or chemical guys Petes 53 black pearl crystal but that wax is pricey
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Old 03-04-2015, 12:07 PM   #8
Mxxdudde
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Obsidian Black pearl

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I actually used meguairs gold class wax but it didn't give me the glossy look I wanted that made the gold pearl show instead it gave a warmer deeper depth to the car which isn't bad but not what I wanted

Again I'm not a professional detailer but i spent a lot of time and effort trying to get the paint corrected until I found this method that worked for my car
And I didn't take it to a professional because i have more time then money
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:05 PM   #9
BigAir
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Obsidian Black

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I've got a 08 WRX in OBP. I finally got a Porter Cable random orbital polisher and the Blackfire products. I used their SRC compound and finishing polish, paint sealer and Wolfgang carnuba wax. This was after 2 washes and then clay bar. The swirls were gone even though it was my first time using a polisher. The paint stayed mostly swirl free through the winter and most of the summer. The only thing that stood out more was all the paint chips on the bumper, hood and quarter panels. I've given up on the hood at this point. Black is tough to keep looking good but I love the look of black cars.
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Old 03-04-2015, 01:29 PM   #10
Chaotic29
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Obsidian Black Swirl

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a few weeks ago i finally did my paint correction on my obsidian black pearl 2011 wrx. Paint had water spots, swirl marks all over from improper washing and years of neglect from the previous owner.

You DO NOT want an orbital polisher. You want a DA (dual action) polisher... in my case i bought the Griot's Garage 6" RA (random orbital) which is in essence a DA but thats beside the point.

1. First i washed the vehicle with Chemical guys citrus wash n gloss via multiple foam gun presoak spray downs, and finally a wash via 2 bucket method. This soap is designed to help strip anything that might be on the paint. (i would not recommend using it for normal washes, it will remove you lsp quick)

2. clay bar the entire vehicle until all the contaminants are gone
I used a meguires clay bar kit with their detail spray as lube, you can never use to much lube.

after my test spot i was happy with the steps of orange pad with v34, then second step of white pad with sf4000.

3. I used my Griot's polisher with a lake country orange flat pad and chemical guys v34 compound.

4. Polisher with white lake country flat pad and menzerna sf400 polish to finish it nice.

5. i wiped down every panel to make sure there was no more residue from the previous stages on the paint to make sure my lsp sticks to the paint as best as possible.

6. Polisher with black lake country flat pad and Chemical guys Jet seal, which can also be applied by hand, but is faster and easier IMO to do by machine and can be applied very evenly. I let it cure for about 20-30 min and buffed off.

7. Second coat using the same method in step 6.

8. It was getting late so i stopped for the day and the following day I cleaned the surface to remove any dust on the car from overnight and then I waxed the car using 5050 Paste wax. I only did 1 coat, i wish i would have done 2 though.

I spent a total of around 14 hours for the detail. And I am very happy with the results, i removed all of the water spots, and around 75% of swirls and imperfections. The car has some spots I will have to revisit using a more aggressive approach in the future to get it more"perfect." With most swirls gone I can now go back easily and isolate the harder areas that need more work and the areas that have deeper scratches.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:25 PM   #11
anjuna
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2015 WRX
Black

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormiller43 View Post
Hey guys, I picked up an 06 OBP WRX about 5-6 months ago. The previous owner did not take too much care of the paint. It has a lot of swirl marks and there are lots of blemishes on the paint. I have tried a handful of different products and they only make it worse. ive tried Turtlewax rubbing compound, polishing compound. I've also tried a black wax that supposedly would hide scratches. Nothing worked, and if anything made the areas I did worse. I followed the directions they said too. Are there any suggestions you guys have?
-Wash car
-Claybar
-dry car and remove any lingering surface contaminants (11% IPA works)
-move car to garage with little to no airflow and NO sun.
-Use a DA
-use lake country's yellow pad with a compound of your choice
-white pad with a polish of your choice
-clean surface with 11% IPA
-apply carpro Cquartz UK edition
-wait three hours
-apply carpro reload
-wait 24 hours to drive

This is the best advice on this entire thread. You'd be an idiot not to follow it. Wax is for people who don't know any better.
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Old 03-04-2015, 02:49 PM   #12
BigAir
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2008 WRX
Obsidian Black

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Yes,
Sorry I said orbital polisher. Mine is indeed a Porter Cable DA polisher.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:47 PM   #13
Mxxdudde
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2006 WRX STi
Obsidian Black pearl

Default

If you dont know a lot about detailing or how to use a DA , a random orbital is way better

And everyone here is listing these crazy ass expensive products you had to order and these complicated ass steps

Trust me $50 of Otc meguairs and a random orbital from pep boys is perfect for what you need bro , all these crazy expensive things you have to order or whatever
But honestly for daily , what's the point the shine will be the same
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:52 PM   #14
taylormiller43
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxxdudde View Post
If you dont know a lot about detailing or how to use a DA , a random orbital is way better

And everyone here is listing these crazy ass expensive products you had to order and these complicated ass steps

Trust me $50 of Otc meguairs and a random orbital from pep boys is perfect for what you need bro , all these crazy expensive things you have to order or whatever
But honestly for daily , what's the point the shine will be the same
I have an orbital but it just makes it worse. Im not worried about it shining i just wanna get rid of the swirls and everything
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Old 03-05-2015, 01:43 AM   #15
mustafaluigi
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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2013 WRX
Crystal Black Silica

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxxdudde View Post
If you dont know a lot about detailing or how to use a DA , a random orbital is way better

And everyone here is listing these crazy ass expensive products you had to order and these complicated ass steps

Trust me $50 of Otc meguairs and a random orbital from pep boys is perfect for what you need bro , all these crazy expensive things you have to order or whatever
But honestly for daily , what's the point the shine will be the same
You are correct about OTC Meguairs, its is a very good accessible and low cost product. You can pick it up at any local autoparts store or Walmart. Depends on how you look at it but a Dual Action (DA) Polisher and a Random Orbital Polisher can be the exact same thing. Whatever you want to call it, make sure it is designed for polishing and not something that is meant for sanding, and that it is not a rotory polisher. The Dual Action, or Random Orbit part is what makes them safe to use by amateur detailers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormiller43 View Post
I have an orbital but it just makes it worse. Im not worried about it shining i just wanna get rid of the swirls and everything
Going off of what I said above, the only way it could be making it worse is A) You aren't using the correct tool, B) You aren't using the correct pads. Don't use the pad that came with most polishers, actually get a backing plate and correct detailing pads that are designed for compounds and polish. C) You aren't using the correct product. Many people think wax will remove swirls and scratches. It protects. If you are trying to polish out swirls with a wax you could be introducing more swirls, especially if you combine that with the wrong pad. Watch some Youtube videos on detailing. Follow guys like Larry at AmmoNYC, or even Junkman. They have really helpful videos to help you get your feet wet in detailing.

I will try, like others above me have, to tell you what I think you should do to fix the paint.

1. Proper wash-Two bucket method, with or without grit guards. Look it up, it won't stop scratches and swirls appearing but it will definitely help. Before doing a major detailing job use some household dawn dishsoap as it will remove all wax and grease built up on the paint.

2. Clay-Buy the Meguiers kit right there next to the compounds and polishes at your local Autozone. I personally use soapy water as my lube as it lets me get away from having to rewash the car to remove the detailing spray they give you with the clay. You can use the spray and it may make the clay work better but you need to wash the clay and all its waxes off the car before detailing. The purpose of clay before polishing is to lengthen the life of your pads and to remove all the gunk off your paint so your pad doesn't get clogged up with it.

3. Compound- If it really is that bad you need to compound first. Meguiers Ultimate Compound is more than enough and won't break the bank. Use an Orange color pad from Lake Country. I found the flat pads work great, don't tear as much as all the textured pads and they aren't too expensive. Prep your pad by rubbing in the product into the entire pad surface. For each time you do a section use 4-5 pea sized drops around the pad. You don't need much. Work in 2'x2' sections, or as close as possible. The goal is to work in manageable sections so the product doesn't dry up on you. Three cris-cross paths overlapping each other should be enough per section, you want to work the product till it starts to clear up. Using CLEAN microfiber towels, wipe off the residue. Autozone sells Griots Garage microfiber towels. The green or blue will work fine for this.

4. Polish- Compounding will get most of the swirls to go away but will leave a hazyish layer on the paint. Meguiers Ultimate Polish and a Lake Country White pad is all you need. Following the same method as above. You should see a darker, richer color after polishing and most light swirls and scratches should be gone. Bring into the sunlight or use a bright light to test for swirls.

5. IPA- Compounds and Polishes sometimes have fillers and oils in them and its a good idea to wipe the car down with a diluted solution of IPA rubbing alcohol. This makes sure the sealants and waxes make a good bond with the paint. Microfiber and a spray bottle filled with distilled water and ipa so that its at about 20%. There are sites that help you figure out how much of each to use based on what percentage you want and what the IPA starts at.

6. Sealant- Waxes are great at making the paint look great but they don't last long. Most carnuba waxes require reapplication after only a few weeks, even sooner if its a DD. Buy some Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax, again at most auto stores and Walmart. You don't need to use a machine to apply it and I even prefer to do this by hand. Using the foam applicator put a few drops of the product on the pad and lay it down on the paint using straight lines. I typically lay it down like I do the compounding and polishing in 2'x2' sections and I cris-cross my lines so that I make sure there is even placement of the sealant. Cover the car and give it some time. The bottle says like 15 min but give it a little more than that to just sit on the paint. After it dries it should wipe right up when you use your finger on the paint and not smear. Using a microfiber towel start to wipe down the car and remove the sealant. Typically you are going to need a few towels to get the whole car. Start with one towel and wipe down a panel and then use a second towel to buff to a shine. As the first towel starts to get clogged get a new towel and use your second towel as your new first wipe towel and the fresh one as your buff towel. Once the car is wiped down, I usually take a nice thick towel and go around the car and wipe the spots that have a bit of a smudge from the sealant. You can lay another layer down but usually let the car sit for about 24 hrs before you lay another layer down.

7. Weekly/Biweekly washes- Now is when you use a true car wash shampoo. It won't strip the wax/sealant off and will help build on the protection with some wax enhancers. Since you might as well, go ahead and get the Ultimate Liquid soap. Has the same kinds of sealants and chemicals used in the wax and will help prolong the life of the wax. Two bucket method and a clean microfiber wash mit. This will ensure you don't add any new scratches to the paint.

8. Drying- Buy some Ultimate Quick Detailer. While the car is still wet, mist the panel with the detailer and get a waffle weave towel and gently dry the panel. The detailer give the paint some lubrication so that any missed dirt and even the towel itself will have a harder time scratching the paint. Use a clean microfiber and buff the panel down to a shine as the detailer will probably leave some streaks. Again this builds on the same compounds and chemicals used in the sealant and wash shampoo, only helping the longevity of the protection.

9. Spot Checking- Use the same detail spray as the previous step to clean up things like bugs or bird ****. Spray liberally and fold a towel in quarters to gently wipe up the mess. Don't press down or be aggressive with it, that will only scratch the paint.

I only recommend Megs products, especially the Ultimate line because it is cheap, accessible, and is actually a very good product for the price. You can spend lots of money getting products from detailing sites but for most applications you won't know the difference. Plus its as easy as driving down the the local store to buy it when you run out.

As far as tools, buy a Portal Cable 7424XP with a 5 inch backing plate. Buy 5.5 inch pads. Any bigger and the machine won't have enough power to keep it spinning. Put a black mark on the side of the backing plate and adjust your downward pressure so that the mark is always spinning. If it stops your just giggling the pad on the paint and it won't do anything.

It may seem like a lot of stuff to buy if you don't already have it but it is an investment and will keep your car and any future cars looking great. With research and practice you will get your cars looking great. I was able to do this, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=honda, when I first started out using all the steps and products I just told you.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:46 PM   #16
taylormiller43
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mustafaluigi View Post
You are correct about OTC Meguairs, its is a very good accessible and low cost product. You can pick it up at any local autoparts store or Walmart. Depends on how you look at it but a Dual Action (DA) Polisher and a Random Orbital Polisher can be the exact same thing. Whatever you want to call it, make sure it is designed for polishing and not something that is meant for sanding, and that it is not a rotory polisher. The Dual Action, or Random Orbit part is what makes them safe to use by amateur detailers.



Going off of what I said above, the only way it could be making it worse is A) You aren't using the correct tool, B) You aren't using the correct pads. Don't use the pad that came with most polishers, actually get a backing plate and correct detailing pads that are designed for compounds and polish. C) You aren't using the correct product. Many people think wax will remove swirls and scratches. It protects. If you are trying to polish out swirls with a wax you could be introducing more swirls, especially if you combine that with the wrong pad. Watch some Youtube videos on detailing. Follow guys like Larry at AmmoNYC, or even Junkman. They have really helpful videos to help you get your feet wet in detailing.

I will try, like others above me have, to tell you what I think you should do to fix the paint.

1. Proper wash-Two bucket method, with or without grit guards. Look it up, it won't stop scratches and swirls appearing but it will definitely help. Before doing a major detailing job use some household dawn dishsoap as it will remove all wax and grease built up on the paint.

2. Clay-Buy the Meguiers kit right there next to the compounds and polishes at your local Autozone. I personally use soapy water as my lube as it lets me get away from having to rewash the car to remove the detailing spray they give you with the clay. You can use the spray and it may make the clay work better but you need to wash the clay and all its waxes off the car before detailing. The purpose of clay before polishing is to lengthen the life of your pads and to remove all the gunk off your paint so your pad doesn't get clogged up with it.

3. Compound- If it really is that bad you need to compound first. Meguiers Ultimate Compound is more than enough and won't break the bank. Use an Orange color pad from Lake Country. I found the flat pads work great, don't tear as much as all the textured pads and they aren't too expensive. Prep your pad by rubbing in the product into the entire pad surface. For each time you do a section use 4-5 pea sized drops around the pad. You don't need much. Work in 2'x2' sections, or as close as possible. The goal is to work in manageable sections so the product doesn't dry up on you. Three cris-cross paths overlapping each other should be enough per section, you want to work the product till it starts to clear up. Using CLEAN microfiber towels, wipe off the residue. Autozone sells Griots Garage microfiber towels. The green or blue will work fine for this.

4. Polish- Compounding will get most of the swirls to go away but will leave a hazyish layer on the paint. Meguiers Ultimate Polish and a Lake Country White pad is all you need. Following the same method as above. You should see a darker, richer color after polishing and most light swirls and scratches should be gone. Bring into the sunlight or use a bright light to test for swirls.

5. IPA- Compounds and Polishes sometimes have fillers and oils in them and its a good idea to wipe the car down with a diluted solution of IPA rubbing alcohol. This makes sure the sealants and waxes make a good bond with the paint. Microfiber and a spray bottle filled with distilled water and ipa so that its at about 20%. There are sites that help you figure out how much of each to use based on what percentage you want and what the IPA starts at.

6. Sealant- Waxes are great at making the paint look great but they don't last long. Most carnuba waxes require reapplication after only a few weeks, even sooner if its a DD. Buy some Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax, again at most auto stores and Walmart. You don't need to use a machine to apply it and I even prefer to do this by hand. Using the foam applicator put a few drops of the product on the pad and lay it down on the paint using straight lines. I typically lay it down like I do the compounding and polishing in 2'x2' sections and I cris-cross my lines so that I make sure there is even placement of the sealant. Cover the car and give it some time. The bottle says like 15 min but give it a little more than that to just sit on the paint. After it dries it should wipe right up when you use your finger on the paint and not smear. Using a microfiber towel start to wipe down the car and remove the sealant. Typically you are going to need a few towels to get the whole car. Start with one towel and wipe down a panel and then use a second towel to buff to a shine. As the first towel starts to get clogged get a new towel and use your second towel as your new first wipe towel and the fresh one as your buff towel. Once the car is wiped down, I usually take a nice thick towel and go around the car and wipe the spots that have a bit of a smudge from the sealant. You can lay another layer down but usually let the car sit for about 24 hrs before you lay another layer down.

7. Weekly/Biweekly washes- Now is when you use a true car wash shampoo. It won't strip the wax/sealant off and will help build on the protection with some wax enhancers. Since you might as well, go ahead and get the Ultimate Liquid soap. Has the same kinds of sealants and chemicals used in the wax and will help prolong the life of the wax. Two bucket method and a clean microfiber wash mit. This will ensure you don't add any new scratches to the paint.

8. Drying- Buy some Ultimate Quick Detailer. While the car is still wet, mist the panel with the detailer and get a waffle weave towel and gently dry the panel. The detailer give the paint some lubrication so that any missed dirt and even the towel itself will have a harder time scratching the paint. Use a clean microfiber and buff the panel down to a shine as the detailer will probably leave some streaks. Again this builds on the same compounds and chemicals used in the sealant and wash shampoo, only helping the longevity of the protection.

9. Spot Checking- Use the same detail spray as the previous step to clean up things like bugs or bird ****. Spray liberally and fold a towel in quarters to gently wipe up the mess. Don't press down or be aggressive with it, that will only scratch the paint.

I only recommend Megs products, especially the Ultimate line because it is cheap, accessible, and is actually a very good product for the price. You can spend lots of money getting products from detailing sites but for most applications you won't know the difference. Plus its as easy as driving down the the local store to buy it when you run out.

As far as tools, buy a Portal Cable 7424XP with a 5 inch backing plate. Buy 5.5 inch pads. Any bigger and the machine won't have enough power to keep it spinning. Put a black mark on the side of the backing plate and adjust your downward pressure so that the mark is always spinning. If it stops your just giggling the pad on the paint and it won't do anything.

It may seem like a lot of stuff to buy if you don't already have it but it is an investment and will keep your car and any future cars looking great. With research and practice you will get your cars looking great. I was able to do this, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=honda, when I first started out using all the steps and products I just told you.
Thanks for all the info man I appreciate it! Yeah I've tried at least 8 different products and they make it worse. For example i tried Turtle Wax Polishing compound, which said it was easy on paint and would remove swirl marks. I followed the directions exactly as they said. Put masking tape on the hood to compare before after. Did it for a few minutes, followed with a polish. Took off the masking tape expecting an improvement. The side i did had a much more dull/faded appearance.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:49 PM   #17
mustafaluigi
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Member#: 354986
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
Crystal Black Silica

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormiller43 View Post
Thanks for all the info man I appreciate it! Yeah I've tried at least 8 different products and they make it worse. For example i tried Turtle Wax Polishing compound, which said it was easy on paint and would remove swirl marks. I followed the directions exactly as they said. Put masking tape on the hood to compare before after. Did it for a few minutes, followed with a polish. Took off the masking tape expecting an improvement. The side i did had a much more dull/faded appearance.
What were you using to apply it? Use either a microfiber towel or applicator or a foam applicator. Stay away from terry cloth, rags or paper products. If you are doing stuff by hand, Chemical Guys do sell some nice microfiber sponge things and hand versions of their orange and white foam pads.
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Old 03-05-2015, 12:52 PM   #18
taylormiller43
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I did it by hand. And i used (don't laugh haha) a brand new sock that I bought. It had a VERY soft texture like microfiber. I wore it like a glove. And then i wiped and polished with a microfiber cloth
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Old 03-05-2015, 01:21 PM   #19
mustafaluigi
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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2013 WRX
Crystal Black Silica

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Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormiller43 View Post
I did it by hand. And i used (don't laugh haha) a brand new sock that I bought. It had a VERY soft texture like microfiber. I wore it like a glove. And then i wiped and polished with a microfiber cloth
That's probably whats causing the scratches. Cotton is abrasive. If you have more than 1 microfiber towel, use one of them and fold it into 4's and try using that with the polish. Also if the microfiber towel isn't clean or has been on the floor don't wipe your car down with it. Wash it and let it air dry.

What polishes are you using? You mention you used the Turtlewax Polish with the sock, then wiped and polished with the microfiber. Are you using a second product or just buffing the panel down (wiping til clean and shiny).
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:00 PM   #20
Mxxdudde
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Yeah most socks are polyester and cotton and that can cause acratches

100% terry cloth or foam pads to apply microfiber to take off
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:01 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by mustafaluigi View Post
You are correct about OTC Meguairs, its is a very good accessible and low cost product. You can pick it up at any local autoparts store or Walmart. Depends on how you look at it but a Dual Action (DA) Polisher and a Random Orbital Polisher can be the exact same thing. Whatever you want to call it, make sure it is designed for polishing and not something that is meant for sanding, and that it is not a rotory polisher. The Dual Action, or Random Orbit part is what makes them safe to use by amateur detailers.



Going off of what I said above, the only way it could be making it worse is A) You aren't using the correct tool, B) You aren't using the correct pads. Don't use the pad that came with most polishers, actually get a backing plate and correct detailing pads that are designed for compounds and polish. C) You aren't using the correct product. Many people think wax will remove swirls and scratches. It protects. If you are trying to polish out swirls with a wax you could be introducing more swirls, especially if you combine that with the wrong pad. Watch some Youtube videos on detailing. Follow guys like Larry at AmmoNYC, or even Junkman. They have really helpful videos to help you get your feet wet in detailing.

I will try, like others above me have, to tell you what I think you should do to fix the paint.

1. Proper wash-Two bucket method, with or without grit guards. Look it up, it won't stop scratches and swirls appearing but it will definitely help. Before doing a major detailing job use some household dawn dishsoap as it will remove all wax and grease built up on the paint.

2. Clay-Buy the Meguiers kit right there next to the compounds and polishes at your local Autozone. I personally use soapy water as my lube as it lets me get away from having to rewash the car to remove the detailing spray they give you with the clay. You can use the spray and it may make the clay work better but you need to wash the clay and all its waxes off the car before detailing. The purpose of clay before polishing is to lengthen the life of your pads and to remove all the gunk off your paint so your pad doesn't get clogged up with it.

3. Compound- If it really is that bad you need to compound first. Meguiers Ultimate Compound is more than enough and won't break the bank. Use an Orange color pad from Lake Country. I found the flat pads work great, don't tear as much as all the textured pads and they aren't too expensive. Prep your pad by rubbing in the product into the entire pad surface. For each time you do a section use 4-5 pea sized drops around the pad. You don't need much. Work in 2'x2' sections, or as close as possible. The goal is to work in manageable sections so the product doesn't dry up on you. Three cris-cross paths overlapping each other should be enough per section, you want to work the product till it starts to clear up. Using CLEAN microfiber towels, wipe off the residue. Autozone sells Griots Garage microfiber towels. The green or blue will work fine for this.

4. Polish- Compounding will get most of the swirls to go away but will leave a hazyish layer on the paint. Meguiers Ultimate Polish and a Lake Country White pad is all you need. Following the same method as above. You should see a darker, richer color after polishing and most light swirls and scratches should be gone. Bring into the sunlight or use a bright light to test for swirls.

5. IPA- Compounds and Polishes sometimes have fillers and oils in them and its a good idea to wipe the car down with a diluted solution of IPA rubbing alcohol. This makes sure the sealants and waxes make a good bond with the paint. Microfiber and a spray bottle filled with distilled water and ipa so that its at about 20%. There are sites that help you figure out how much of each to use based on what percentage you want and what the IPA starts at.

6. Sealant- Waxes are great at making the paint look great but they don't last long. Most carnuba waxes require reapplication after only a few weeks, even sooner if its a DD. Buy some Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax, again at most auto stores and Walmart. You don't need to use a machine to apply it and I even prefer to do this by hand. Using the foam applicator put a few drops of the product on the pad and lay it down on the paint using straight lines. I typically lay it down like I do the compounding and polishing in 2'x2' sections and I cris-cross my lines so that I make sure there is even placement of the sealant. Cover the car and give it some time. The bottle says like 15 min but give it a little more than that to just sit on the paint. After it dries it should wipe right up when you use your finger on the paint and not smear. Using a microfiber towel start to wipe down the car and remove the sealant. Typically you are going to need a few towels to get the whole car. Start with one towel and wipe down a panel and then use a second towel to buff to a shine. As the first towel starts to get clogged get a new towel and use your second towel as your new first wipe towel and the fresh one as your buff towel. Once the car is wiped down, I usually take a nice thick towel and go around the car and wipe the spots that have a bit of a smudge from the sealant. You can lay another layer down but usually let the car sit for about 24 hrs before you lay another layer down.

7. Weekly/Biweekly washes- Now is when you use a true car wash shampoo. It won't strip the wax/sealant off and will help build on the protection with some wax enhancers. Since you might as well, go ahead and get the Ultimate Liquid soap. Has the same kinds of sealants and chemicals used in the wax and will help prolong the life of the wax. Two bucket method and a clean microfiber wash mit. This will ensure you don't add any new scratches to the paint.

8. Drying- Buy some Ultimate Quick Detailer. While the car is still wet, mist the panel with the detailer and get a waffle weave towel and gently dry the panel. The detailer give the paint some lubrication so that any missed dirt and even the towel itself will have a harder time scratching the paint. Use a clean microfiber and buff the panel down to a shine as the detailer will probably leave some streaks. Again this builds on the same compounds and chemicals used in the sealant and wash shampoo, only helping the longevity of the protection.

9. Spot Checking- Use the same detail spray as the previous step to clean up things like bugs or bird ****. Spray liberally and fold a towel in quarters to gently wipe up the mess. Don't press down or be aggressive with it, that will only scratch the paint.

I only recommend Megs products, especially the Ultimate line because it is cheap, accessible, and is actually a very good product for the price. You can spend lots of money getting products from detailing sites but for most applications you won't know the difference. Plus its as easy as driving down the the local store to buy it when you run out.

As far as tools, buy a Portal Cable 7424XP with a 5 inch backing plate. Buy 5.5 inch pads. Any bigger and the machine won't have enough power to keep it spinning. Put a black mark on the side of the backing plate and adjust your downward pressure so that the mark is always spinning. If it stops your just giggling the pad on the paint and it won't do anything.

It may seem like a lot of stuff to buy if you don't already have it but it is an investment and will keep your car and any future cars looking great. With research and practice you will get your cars looking great. I was able to do this, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=honda, when I first started out using all the steps and products I just told you.
I think we were talking about the same thing when I was talking about the polisher
And you basically elaborated everything I was too lazy to type
It's more procedure then products
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Old 03-05-2015, 03:02 PM   #22
taylormiller43
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Originally Posted by mustafaluigi View Post
That's probably whats causing the scratches. Cotton is abrasive. If you have more than 1 microfiber towel, use one of them and fold it into 4's and try using that with the polish. Also if the microfiber towel isn't clean or has been on the floor don't wipe your car down with it. Wash it and let it air dry.

What polishes are you using? You mention you used the Turtlewax Polish with the sock, then wiped and polished with the microfiber. Are you using a second product or just buffing the panel down (wiping til clean and shiny).
Wow really???? I had no idea. And i have a few different polishes I'll have to get a picture
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Old 03-05-2015, 04:06 PM   #23
mustafaluigi
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Wow really???? I had no idea. And i have a few different polishes I'll have to get a picture
Yeah never dry with a bath towel. ESPECIALLY a beach towel. Seems like its a good idea because its designed to absorb water, but it is not designed to be delicate on paint.
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:48 AM   #24
nicsye
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You bought black

You're ****ed
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:50 AM   #25
taylormiller43
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You bought black

You're ****ed
Thanks hahahaha i figured. But i waited 4 months to find this one and wasnt about to wait and find another
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