Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday October 1, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Engine Management & Tuning

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-07-2003, 11:39 AM   #226
amelnikov
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 9827
Join Date: Aug 2001
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: New York
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Wgn 292whp
Alex Performance

Default

Hs anyone got the narrow band output to work with a link? Mine shuts the link down every time I hook it up with and without nise filter.

It's great otherwise. Now if only it worked with any other port on my PC then port 1 it would be great.

Alex...
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
amelnikov is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2003, 02:33 PM   #227
8Complex

Moderator
 
Member#: 922
Join Date: Feb 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Vehicle:
04 FXT
Red

Default

I gave up on the outputs... I was on the phone with them about it when I first installed it and found that they were like +/- .1v, which is a pretty big deal when you're trying to use the 1-2v output to show AFR/10 in voltage... and they said it wouldn't be linear! Supposedly as long as you hook them up to the same grounds, which are both really good grounds, then they'll be fine. But I don't even have a remote display, so how hard-wired into my car do you expect me to put this thing already?
8Complex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 03:14 AM   #228
EMS
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 14116
Join Date: Jan 2002
Default

Quote:
Has anyone else noticed how glitchy the bar at the bottom of the screen on the LM-1 unit is? It acts as thought the LCD is bad but the other numbers and letters that appear on the screen look just fine. I have also found it very difficult to get good acurate readings when I make a WOT pull. Usually the A/F ratio number will get stuck on one set ratio (like 15.1 for example) and will hold that until I let off and hit the gas again. If I go 3/4 throttle then it will give an accurate reading most of the time but as soon as I hit it to the floor it freezes?? Sometimes it will do fine but other times it wont. Is it the sensor or is it just the cheaper of the 2 VW sensors? I also noticed when doing a free air calibration that the O2% with go from 20.9 to 20.8 and just keep bouncing between the 2 numbers. I have also managed to get a sensor timing error so far. I thought from the details given about this unit that it would be superior to the others that are availible, but now I am really having some major second thoughts.
About the same behaviour with my LM-1! What can be the cause? Is it the sensor, is it the firmware?

Mark.
EMS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 10:16 AM   #229
Portly
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 1197
Join Date: Apr 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Vehicle:
1997 Impreza Wagon
Mystic Blue Pearl

Default

Quote:
Originally posted by 8Complex
I gave up on the outputs... I was on the phone with them about it when I first installed it and found that they were like +/- .1v, which is a pretty big deal ....
+/- .1v!!! Crap! No wonder I've been totally pulling my hair out trying to make this work!

What a major disappointment. If this thing isn't useful for providing feedback to my TEC-2, it's not at all what I was hoping for. I'm gonna keep at it, though. So far I've grounded the LM-1 power supply to the same place as the TEC (the battery) and I'm using a voltage divider circuit so I can send the signal out as 0-5 and then cut it to 0-1v. Next up is to replace the output cable with a shielded cable, and try to make a shielded box for my voltage divider circuit.

One other thing: I cut the output range from 10:1 - 22:1 down to 10.5:1 - 16.5:1. That gives me twice the resolution. I seem to have gotten to the point were the TEC only disagrees with the LM-1 by about 0.4 AFR, but that's more then I want to live with.

_Jeff
Portly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 11:20 AM   #230
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

+/- 0.1v is crap. there's no reason for that kind of resolution.

that's a downer, for sure.

jm2c
ken
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2003, 02:49 PM   #231
8Complex

Moderator
 
Member#: 922
Join Date: Feb 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Vehicle:
04 FXT
Red

Default

Well, supposedly if you use a very good ground and then ground both the unit and the signal ground (the unshielded wire), and the unit getting the signal (ECU) to the same place, it should be right on. I haven't had the time to check/try it. I think I'm just going to swap mine over to 1-5v and read 10:1-15:1 and call it a day. The Haltech can be set to figure it out better from there.
8Complex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 07:50 AM   #232
EMS
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 14116
Join Date: Jan 2002
Default

Quote:
quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Has anyone else noticed how glitchy the bar at the bottom of the screen on the LM-1 unit is? It acts as thought the LCD is bad but the other numbers and letters that appear on the screen look just fine. I have also found it very difficult to get good acurate readings when I make a WOT pull. Usually the A/F ratio number will get stuck on one set ratio (like 15.1 for example) and will hold that until I let off and hit the gas again. If I go 3/4 throttle then it will give an accurate reading most of the time but as soon as I hit it to the floor it freezes?? Sometimes it will do fine but other times it wont. Is it the sensor or is it just the cheaper of the 2 VW sensors? I also noticed when doing a free air calibration that the O2% with go from 20.9 to 20.8 and just keep bouncing between the 2 numbers. I have also managed to get a sensor timing error so far. I thought from the details given about this unit that it would be superior to the others that are availible, but now I am really having some major second thoughts.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



About the same behaviour with my LM-1! What can be the cause? Is it the sensor, is it the firmware?

Mark.
Anyone?

Mark.
EMS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 02:39 PM   #233
8Complex

Moderator
 
Member#: 922
Join Date: Feb 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Vehicle:
04 FXT
Red

Default

^^^ I think that it's just that it's displaying it's data to the bar too fast. That it's actually showing the pulses between combustion and thus showing low and high areas.


Innovate -- Where the is the remote display kits now? Has development even been started?
8Complex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 06:28 PM   #234
Turbo Datsun Z Car
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 41053
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Lake Charles, La.
Vehicle:
74TT RB26dett Datsun

Default

Quote:

Innovate -- Where the is the remote display kits now? Has development even been started?

Yea Innovate>>>> same question... still waiting....
joel
Turbo Datsun Z Car is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2003, 06:31 PM   #235
Charged Performance
Vendor
 
Member#: 40645
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Jersey City, NJ
Default

I don't know that they are monitoring this thread still. They have a yahoo discussion group - Jon put it up earlier. They have been good about responses there.

Ed.
Charged Performance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2003, 08:48 PM   #236
Klaus
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 40416
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: CA
Vehicle:
68 Porsche VW Bus
white

Default

Hi,

Sorry I have not looked into this thread in a while (was dead for a while). Please use our Yahoo forum (see our web-site) for LM-1 questions. It is impossible for us to monitor all threads about the LM-1 on all forums. There are just too many now. And I am busier than a one-armed juggler trying to get a lot of stuff ready for SEMA.

But here some updates:

1. Remote display kit.
There are 2 versions.
First version will be out in a couple of weeks, waiting for first run of production units from manufacturer. Was a screw-up with the front logo, otherwise would be out by now (Murphy strikes again).
The first version (low price) is a 2-1/16 analog meter (8-18 AFR) that hooks up to analog out 2. This is a needle instrument, not a LED bar thingy. Settings for output 2 to be published.

Second version is a 2-1/16 round instrument, hardware finished, software in development. Round 270 degree LED row with 3-digit LED number display in center. Also has 'record' button. Hooks up to serial out of the LM-1. Also has a female Mini-DIN8 'dongle' on the back to hook up a laptop for real-time datalogging and download of logs from LM-1 and LM-1x. Expected to be out in about a month (I am putting very heavy pressure on the engineers that are doing it, many people want it).

2. Glitchy bar on bottom of display
The numeric display is AFR and Lambda averaged over 1/3 second. The bar on the bottom is 'instant' AFR or Lambda as measured. If it jumps around a lot, it is because of valve overlap. Some of the mixture (specially at idle) will pass unburned into the exhaust, supplying free oxygen. A WB sensor (if it's fast enough to react) measures that as lean peak. The same happens for a missed ignition. The 'instant' bar allows you to see that.
Analog outs (at least with the 1.1 firmware) are also derived from instant lambda. A new upcoming firmware release allows you to select the output speed for each output from instant, 1/12, 1/6 or 1/3 second rate. Hopefully out in a week or so.

3. Sensor overheating issues (infamous Error 08).
There are three solutions (in order of preference):

a. Relocate the sensor to a cooler location.

b. Install a heat sink
Take a sheet of 4" x 4" x 0.06" copper, drill a hole in the center the size of the sensor thread. Bend two sides up 45 degrees to form a V with flat bottom the width of the sensor. Mount this between the sensor body and the bung (using the sensor itself). Put the sensor's sealing washer between the heat-sink and the bung. The problem is that the sensor body is overheating from heat conduction from the bung. The heat-sink dissipates some of the heat conducted by the bung. You can use aluminum instead of copper, but al. conducts heat only half as good.

c. If all that does not help, send in your unit. We will install a hardware modification that allows the unit to work with an overheated sensor (within reason). The disadvantage is that the response time of the meter will be slowed down somewhat and it does not change the fact that the sensor runs too hot and therefore has a dramatically shorter lifetime.


4. RPM converter

Beta units are shipping this Friday. Uses tach pulses from 1Vpp to 300Vpp. Optionally uses inductive clamp. Can be calibrated to the number of rpm pulses/crank rotation by pressing a 'setup' button and then holding engine rpm to 2000 +- 200 RPM for 15 seconds.
Precision 1.5% of indicated. Measures 400 ... 10230 RPM in 10 RPM steps.

Some more tuning tips for the LM-1 and some real-world test results can be found here:

http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...hreadid=227021

Check the posts on the second page by RICE RACING.

Regards,
Klaus
Klaus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-04-2004, 03:20 AM   #237
hatchy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 36852
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North West
Vehicle:
2004 STI

Default

Can you point me to where you found that other users of the Techedge had good results from moving the sensor further back?

Quote:
Originally posted by misterblu

FWIW, the Techedge 2.0 is suffering from the same problem. Users of the Techedge have also had good results from moving the sensor further back. One thing to note is that the TE 2.0 shows error conditions by changing the way a red light blinks on its case . Imagine trying to figure that one out.

Regards,
Jon
hatchy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
[FS]Brand New - Wideband O2 Sensor/Hood Scoop/Gasket kit. Pumpastic Engine/Power/Exhaust 1 08-04-2007 06:30 PM
Brand New Zeitronix Wideband O2 w/ LCD MajorAgee Private 'For Sale' Classifieds 7 10-13-2004 11:28 PM
New TechEdge Wideband O2 kit STFUTuning Private 'For Sale' Classifieds 7 11-19-2003 12:47 AM
1-New TechEdge Wideband O2 kit MauroMotorsports Vendor 'For Sale' Classifieds 7 09-11-2003 04:17 PM
New AEM wideband o2 sensor ThuotRDX Engine Management & Tuning 1 07-23-2003 12:06 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.