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Old 08-04-2003, 04:48 AM   #1
plexrex
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 34780
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Maryland
Default parts install

Some rules to follow on doing car work. Start late in the day with only one part you plan on installing. Get most of the way done and have the guy who is helping you say "We have this apart so lets put the other part on too since you have this part disconnected". Run into a piece that is in the way and invent unique ways to move that part out of the way. Curse the designer and think of places to kick him where it hurts. Run to the store to get a tool you need which you should already have, but did not know you needed until you run into a spot where you need that tool. Have the sun set and pet yourself on the back for buying that flash light when you got that tool you didn't know you need until you needed it. Work on the car until you get to a point and realize that you can't see because the sun is below the horizon and rising on another part of the planet. Wait until morning to see what you have to do to finish the project and hope you don't have to go to the parts store more than once and hope they have the part ( in stock).
I will let you know the rest when I (we) get the thing back together and count how many parts I have left over and will put in a box just to have when I figure out where the parts should have gone or give to the shop where people who know where the parts go.
I may not have to ride in the rain then.
Well I did not have to ride in the rain.
Day two went as expected. To install the second part the old part must come out. This of course requires removing surround pieces due to the tight fit and unique location of heat shields, sensors, tubes and whichadoos. Only one tube did contain liquid, a nice green fluid which must be plugged at the hole to keep it from spurting out..no plug but a longer length of hose from fish tank gravel cleaner( which won’t be used for the fish anymore) to provide expansion of the coolant out of the hole and not onto the engine and ground and body parts (human and car). Now the pipes are disconnected and the turbo is situated out of the way, but still attached by some other hoses and ‘things’.
Trip to the store for the mounting bolts for the up pipe since the old studs don’t want to come out. And it was only one trip to the parts store….well one trip, three stores. First store ( nation wide store who now wants to be considered a ‘Tuner” store) did not carry any class 8 bolts, but they do have lovely plastic pedal covers that look aluminum. The second store did have the size and length I needed, but the guy did not know the rating and only had four of five that I required. Bought them any way. Third store….no metric sizes in class 8, but they did have nice plastic tool boxes that looked aluminum.
Bolts are confirmed to be class 8 by install friend and only four bolts are really needed. The fifth hole is just for mounting place of heat shield which won’t be going back in anyway. Install of pipes is easy(er) now that everything is out of the way. Uppipe bolts nicely to the header( which is going to be really easy to replace, got to love the boxer). The turbo mounts nicely back into its place with only a half dozen creative verbal sentences and connects to uppipe nicely. To reconnect the green fluid line to the turbo, blow on the gravel cleaning tube until fluid gently is displaced back into wince it came, quickly remove tube and replace with car tube that is supposed to be there and lose only a shot class of green stuff. Reconnect other sundry tubes and wires to turbo and mount new down pipe, which was the only part going to be installed in the first place. Place extra nuts, bolts, thingies in a box just in case. Check ALL connection points, wires, hoses, heat shields which still fit and serve a purpose, wrap turbo in heat blanket and heat wrap, replace plastic skid plate and body parts, check in and around vehicle for any tools, bolts, parts, whichadoos, small vermin and neighborhood kids (which thankfully left us alone) and do this check about two more times just to make sure nothing is not where it ain’t supposed to be. Cross fingers, say small prayer, insert key, start……NO CEL thrown, no strange sound, no fluid spraying, no rattle from unlocated tool or kid………..still no ill sounds…so test drive begins.
Turbo spools way sooner and longer, exhaust note is even lower and more meaningful. A lot more responsive. Short drive over and hood up to inspect if any thing got out of place, Let smoke from spilled fluids and heat wrap conditioning dissipate…..all is good under the hood and the villagers rejoiced. Now I got to figure those header are next……
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Last edited by plexrex; 08-04-2003 at 11:09 PM.
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